'^  ►!.  <%  s.'^K< «%  >3  'Sf?'  K<  <s|^>I<'S|^ 


>^^7^ 


4  » 


t  T  •  ^  «  T 


Jo  ^L    <)Jo   tIL   <^    74L- 

r^  ii  ^  •  GEORGE WAIpREI^^      4o  ^  #  I 

4L    <^  74L   (^  i4L    #  74L  Oto  ^L   ()jo  ^L    <^  t^L    <^  :^L 

y  Al.  t^  74i   ^  ,4L ojc  ^  9|o   4   <^   ^   ()|(.    4L  0; 


X'Q  tbe  Butbor  ot 


VANISHED   TOWERS   AND    CHIMES 
OF  FLANDERS. 

VANISHED     HALLS     AND     CATHE- 
DRALS OF  FRANCE. 

HOLLAND  OF  TO-DAY. 

BRITTANY  AND  THE  BRETONS. 

SOME  OLD  FLEMISH  TOWNS. 

MARKEN  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 

THE  FOREST  OF  ARDEN. 

ETC. 


A  childhood  land  of  mountain  ways, 
Where  earthly  gnomes  and  forest  fays. 
Kind  foolish  giants,  gentle  bears, 
Sport  with  the  peasant  as  he  fares 
Affrighted  through  the  forest  glades. 
And  lead  sweet  wistful  little  maids 
Lost  in  the  woods,  forlorn,  alone. 
To  princely  lovers  and  a  throne. 

Dear  haunted  land  of  gorge  and  glen. 
Ah,  me!  the  dreams,  the  dreams  of  men! 

A  learned  land  of  wise  old  hooks 
And  men  with  meditative  looks, 
Who  move  in  quaint  red-gabled  towns 
And  sit  in  gravely  folded  gowns, 
Divining  in  deep-laden  speech 
The  world's  supreme  arcana — each 
A  homely  god  to  listening  Youth 
Eager  to  tear  the  veil  of  Truth; 

Mild  votaries  of  hook  and  pen — 
Alas,  the  dreams,  the  dreams  of  men! 

A  music  land,  whose  life  is  wrought 
In  movement  of  melodious  thought; 
In  symphony,  great  wave  on  wave — 
Or  fugue,  elusive,  swift,  and  grave; 
A  singing  land,  whose  lyric  rimes 
Float  on  the  air  like  village  chimes; 
Music  and  verse — the  deepest  part 
Of  a  whole  nation's  thinking  heart! 

Oh,  land  of  Now,  oh,  land  of  Then! 
Dear  God!  the  dreams,  the  dreams  of  men! 

Oh,  depths  beneath  sweet  human  ken, 
God  help  the  dreams,  the  dreams  of  men! 

Anon. 
From  London  Punch,  1917. 


iDV  Beloved  Xadi?  Bnne 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2008  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/alsacelorraineOOedwarich 


*^Open  my  heart  and  you  will  see 
The  land  all  emblazoned  with  Fleurs  des  Lys" 


458625 


tFoiYtnord 


^f^HE  one  dominating  purpose  of  the  people  of 
CU  Alsace-Lorraine  is  their  reunion  with  the  mother 
^■^  country :  France.  A  temporary  or  final  autonomy 
for  the  Lost  Provinces,  this  "Land  of  Unshed  Tears,"  is 
out  of  the  question.  The  people  do  not  want  it.  It 
would  be  most  impracticable  to  establish  it.  They  would 
not  even  discuss  it.  The  people  of  Alsace-Lorraine  con- 
sider themselves  French  and  a  part  of  France. 

The  creation  of  even  a  temporary  autonomy  would  be 
nothing  more  than  a  makeshift,  a  deferring  of  the  whole 
question,  and  history  shows  conclusively  that  there  is  no 
attempted  settlement  so  dangerous  to  ultimate  peace  as 
such  a  makeshift;  a  temporary  autonomy  such  as  Ger- 
many proposes.  The  only  logical  way  to  settle  the  mat- 
ter is  to  sever  completely  the  enforced,  undesired  and 
unnatural  connection  between  the  provinces  and  Ger- 
many, and  return  them,  with  as  good  grace  as  they  can 
assume,  to  their  natural  place  as  part  of  France. 

There  is  no  way  of  causing  the  self-expatriated  inhabi- 
tants of  Alsace-Lorraine,  who  fled  rather  than  live  under 
the  Prussian  rule,  to  return  to  it  under  an  autonomy. 


FOREWORD 

In  the  United  States,  in  England,  and  in  France,  there  are 
half  a  million  of  Alsatians  who  would  not  consent  to 
leave  their  adopted  homes  and  new  occupations  for  the 
doubtful  opportunity  of  taking  part  in  a  plebiscite  in  the 
country  of  their  birth.  They  know  too  well  the  touch 
of  the  iron  hand. 

The  seizure  in  1871  of  Alsace-Lorraine  is  regarded  by 
the  Germans  as  the  crowning  triumph  arid  victory  of  the 
Bismarckian  era  of  conquest,  and  it  must  be  made  for 
them  by  ourselves  and  our  Allies  one  of  the  reasons  for 
their  defeat  in  the  present  war,  which  that  blood-steeped 
war  master  of  Europe  has  precipitated  upon  the  nations 
for  their  domination. 

The  wrong  done  to  Belgium  is  not  greater  than  that 
done  to  Alsace-Lorraine,  save  that  the  latter  country  has 
not  yet  been  so  wrecked  by  fire  and  sword. 

How  can  the  wrong  to  either  nation  be  righted  save  by 
restoration  ^ 

How  else  than  by  France's  recovery  of  the  provinces 
so  wrongfully  seized,  can  Germany  be  defeated*? — 
Treaties  with  a  government  which  contemptuously  re- 
gards them  as  "scraps  of  paper"  is  play  for  children  or 
Bolsheviki. 

Indemnity  without  a  return  of  such  territory  is  not  to 
be  considered.  Germany  must  not  merely  be  made  to 
give  up  what  she  has  seized;  she  must  lose  as  well  the 

10 


FOREWORD 

material  resources  upon  which  her  iniquitous  enterprise 
was  based. 

In  1871  no  plebiscite  was  taken,  although  both  France 
and  Alsace-Lorraine  vainly  urged  it.  Why,  then,  should 
there  be  one  now,  or  at  a  period  after  the  end  of  the  pres- 
ent war*?  *'Has  there  not  even  been  a  continuous  plebi- 
scite in  Alsace-Lorraine  from  the  protests  of  the  elected 
representatives  of  these  provinces  at  the  National  Assem- 
bly in  Bordeaux  in  1871  and  in  the  Reichstag  in  Berlin 
in  1874,  ^^^  ^^  ^P  to  the  popular  protests  of  Savern 
(Zabern)  in  1913?*      (Clement  Rueff.) 

The  possibility  of  even  a  fair  competition  between 
Germany  and  France  to  an  autonomous  Alsace-Lorraine 
is  unbelievable.  After  what  has  happened  to  Belgium 
and  other  countries  no  one  can  believe  in  such  a  sugges- 
tion. It  must  be  won  upon  the  battlefield  where  France 
stands  an  even  chance,  at  least.  Germany  can  be  intimi- 
dated or  won  over  only  by  a  show  of  force.  She  cannot 
comprehend  gentler  methods.  A  people  who  glory  in 
such  acts  as  the  sinking  of  the  Lusitania;  the  murder  of 
Edith  Cavell,  and  Captain  Fryatt;  the  placing  of  young 
children  and  their  mothers  before  the  marching  soldiers; 
the  assault  upon  undefended  towns ;  the  bombing  of  hos- 
pitals; the  slavery  of  French  and  Belgian  women. 
Those  who  applaud  the  acts  of  Von  Bernstorff  and  Lux- 
burg,  would  hardly  stop  at  similar  methods  in  their  deal- 

II 


FOREWORD 

ings  with  Alsace-Lorraine  if  they  thought  necessary. 
France  would  perish  before  using  such  means  to  subju- 
gate. 

Concerning  the  treatment  of  Germans  in  the  provinces 
when  they  are  eventually  returned  to  France,  witness  how 
France  treated  Alsace  in  1648  after  it  became  French. 

Both  Protestants  and  Jews  were  baited  and  persecuted 
in  Paris  and  throughout  France,  yet  in  Alsace  they  were 
tolerated,  even  protected  from  interference,  and  allowed 
to  worship  according  to  their  peculiar  tenets. 

"The  very  question  of  language,  which  has  so  often 
been  raised  by  Germany  to  prove  that  Alsace  is  German, 
is  it  not  a  conclusive  demonstration  of  the  extreme  toler- 
ance of  France?  If  France  had  used  the  same  methods 
that  Germany  has  used  since  1871,  can  one  think  for  a 
moment  that  the  Alsatian  dialect  could  have  remained 
the  popular  language  of  Alsace  after  200  years  of  French 
occupation?  And  let  us  not  forget  that  an  appreciable 
part  of  Alsace,  with  such  towns  as  Thann,  St.  Amarin, 
Massevaux,  Dannemarie,  has  been  occupied  by  France 
since  1914  and  has  been  incorporated  with  that  other 
part  of  the  Department  of  the  Haut-Rhin,  Belfort  and 
surroundings,  which  remained  a  part  of  France  after 
1871. 

'The  French  Government  since  1914  has  not  ceased  to 
give  this  question  of  the  period  of  transition  the  most 

12 


FOREWORD 

earnest  thought,  and  to  this  effect  a  special  and  official 
commission  has  been  created,  composed  of  prominent  Al- 
satians and  Lorrainers  of  all  standings,  with  the  pur- 
pose of  studying  this  question  from  all  points  of  view 
and  of  elaborating  the  means  of  preventing  all  friction 
with  the  people  of  Alsace-Lorraine  regarding  their  re- 
ligious, political  and  economical  relations  after  their  re- 
union with  France. 

"And  I  can  find  no  better  demonstration  as  to  what  will 
be  the  attitude  of  the  mother  country  toward  her  recov- 
ered children  than  by  repeating  the  words  of  the  great 
and  good  Joffre  to  the  people  of  Thann  when  he  first 
came  to  that  old  Alsatian  city;  words  that  made  the  tears 
rise  to  the  eyes  of  all  old  Alsatians  who  heard  him,  and 
that  still  make  the  tears  rise  to  mine,  when  he  said:  "Je 
vous  apporte  le  baiser  de  la  France."      (Clement  Rueff )  .^ 

And  so  that  the  reader  may  know  just  what  sort  of  peo- 
ple are  these  Alsace-Lorrainers — how  some  of  them  live, 
and  under  what  conditions — I  have  gathered  these  ran- 
dom notes  together,  and  ransacked  my  sketch  books  for 
types  of  people,  and  pictures  of  the  old  castles  in  the 
mountainous  districts;  the  nestling  small  towns  in  the 
thick  forests;  the  great  rivers  flowing  through  lovely 
meadow  lands  lined  with  marvelous  old  towns  and  vil- 
lages, which  transport  one  who  tarries  there  into  the  mid- 

^  V.  p.  Association  Grenerale  des  Alsaciens-Lorraine  d'  Amcrique. 

13 


FOREWORD 

die  age.  Then  there  is  such  a  wealth  of  mediaeval 
churches  and  abbeys,  ruined  turreted  castles  glorified  in 
legend,  and  exquisite  old  chateaux  embowered  in  the 
shade  of  great  trees.  .  .  .  And  so,  dear  reader,  may  it 
charm  you  as  it  has  the  author. 

Greenwich,  Conn., 
May  22,  1918. 


(Sontmts 


PAGE 

The  Lost  Provinces     ........  21 

The  German  Yoke •     •     •  39 

Ferrette,  a  Toy  Village .  69 

Altkirch 77 

The  Feast  of  the  Pipers    .......  91 

MuLHOUSE 105 

COLMAR 119 

The  Vineyards 141 

Fete  Days  and  Customs 161 

Sainte  Odile 187 

The  Quaint  Houses 195 

Dreien-Eguisheim 205 

turckheim 219 

Thann 233 

ROSHEIM 245 

Metz 2^5 

Strassburg .  273 

The  Real  Reason 315 

The  Land  of  Tears 323 

Bibliography 336 

Index 337 


%\st  of  initistrtitions 


PAOB 


The  Fortune  in  the  Teacup  ....       Frontispiece 

Title  page 

Kaysersburg — Old  Chapel  and  Houses  on  the  River 

Weiss 26 

Ancient  Costumes — Sunday  Morning     ....     32 

Strassburg;  Cathedral  at  Nightfall     ....     54 

Ferrette  in  the  Sundgau 72 

Young  Alsatian  Girl  with  the  Provincial  Headdress    82 

Feast  of  the  Pipers 94 

Mulhouse:  Hotel  de  Ville .108 

Mulhouse:  Bollwerk  Tower 112 

Colmar:  House  of  Heads     .      .      .      .      .      .      .122 

Colmar:  Maison  Pfister -.      .      .130 

Old  Wine  Press 148 

The  Fiancees 166 

Sainte-Odile :     The  Monastery 188 

Lower  Alsace:  Interior  of  Peasant  House  .      .      .196 

Dambach :  Old  Houses  on  the  Square     ....   200 

Colmar:  A  Fifteenth  Century  Well     ....   208 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGS 


Niederhoslach :  Saint-Florent 212 

Tiirckheim :  The  Ancient  Gate 220 

Tiirckheim:  Sunset 226 

Thann :  The  Sorcerer's  Eye 238 

Thann :  On  the  River  Thur 240 

Rosheim:  Hotel  de  Ville 246 

Metz :  William  II  as  the  Prophet  Daniel,  Metz  Ca- 
thedral   . 256 

Metz:  Cathedral 260 

Metz ;  Porte  des  Allemands 264 

Metz:  Remains  of  the  Chateau-Passetemps      .      .  266 

Metz:  The  Old  Bridge  (Basse-Grilles)       ...  268 

Strassburg:  Cathedral  (unfinished  sketch)  .      .      .  276 

Strassburg:  St.  Laurent  Portal 290 

Strassburg:  The  Kammerzall  House     ....  300 

Strassburg:  The  Port  of  Little  France  ....  302 

Strassburg:  Quartier  du  Petite  France  .      .      .      .310 

Metz:  Houses  on  the  Mozelle 316 

Metz :  Ruins  of  the  Roman  Aqueduct  ....  324 


Wsf  Host  Prolrinmi 


m 


HEN  we  get  to  the  top  of  the  road,  M'sieur, 
we  shall  be  in  Alsace.  There  is  a  post  there 
to  mark  the  boundary — the  frontier — *l^ien 
entendu^  On  this  side  one  sees  the  shield  of  France, 
but,  'toute au  coup'  once  one  has  passed,  one  sees  that  it 
bears  the  black  *bete'  of  Germany  on  the  other  side,  and 
then  one  is  in  Alsace!" 

Thus  the  driver  of  our  auto,  not  really  our  own,  but  one 
that  we  had  hired  for  the  day  at  Belfort  for  the  thirty  odd 
mile  drive  to  Mulhouse.  Through  this  green-gold  hay- 
and-honeysuckle-breathing  afternoon  the  low  valley  wel- 

21 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

comes  us  along  perfect  roads  to  the  boundary.  Occa- 
sionally drowsy  laborers,  despite  Sunday,  are  loitering  in 
the  fields;  we  pass  two  huge  cream  colored  oxen  hitched 
to  an  immense  hay  cart,  a  peasant  lolling  in  a  doze  high 
on  the  fragrant  hay — a  small  white  stoned  cemetery  with 
the  majestic  Crucified  Figure  above  a  blazing  labyrinth 
of  hollyhock  and  sunflower;  then  a  village  of  some  score 
or  more  of  creamy- walled  homes  topped  by  a  gray  old 
spire.  Then  a  fringe  of  purplish  gray  poplars,  sentinel- 
like, on  either  hand.  The  wooded  heights  grow  into 
mountains  all  crested  with  ancient  gray  ruin  of  historical 
strongholds.  The  Dukes  of  Lorraine  coveted  these ;  took 
by  force,  and  sometimes  married  them  with  their  Chate- 
laines. Louis  XIV  likewise  coveted  them,  and  ravaged 
them  with  fire  and  blood  by  the  iron  hand  of  Boufflers. 
The  Barons  were  given  little  or  no  notice  of  his  coming; 
the  family  might  be  at  breakfast  over  the  second  cup 
of  whatever  it  was  they  used  instead  of  coffee,  or  the 
sleepy  sentinel  on  the  tower  might  be  aroused  by  the 
clatter  of  approaching  cavaliers  and  cannon  along  the 
winding  road.  Cannon  and  powder  brought  the  doom 
of  the  great  strongholds  so  long  deemed  impregnable. 
The  massive  towers  fell  like  ninepins  under  the  blast, 
and  many  vanished  into  dust,  leaving  hardly  a  trace  to 
mark  the  site  now  so  exquisitely  draped  in  ivy.  Thus 
the  whole  region  became  what  the  tourist  calls  "pictur- 
esque." 

22 


THE  LOST  PROVINCES 

No  two  agree  as  to  just  what  constitutes  a  state  of  pic- 
turesqueness,  but  perhaps  dilapidation  forms  an  essential 
part  of  it.  Certainly  these  ruins  are  as  dilapidated  as 
one  could  wish,  and  this  warrior  Boufflers  was  the  cause 
of  it. 

The  unfortunate  peasants  of  the  region,  who  then  eked 
out  wretched  existences,  as  it  were,  between  hammer  and 
anvil,  chased  hither  and  yon  by  the  marauders,  dodging 
the  bolts  and  the  chance  morsels  of  bastion  or  tower  that 
flew  about  during  these  busy  days  when  Boufflers  demol- 
ished their  humble  homes,  have  made  way  for  a  pos- 
terity that  now  enjoys  jingling  the  freely  given  francs 
of  the  appreciative  tourist.  Everywhere  there  was  this 
day  a  look  of  smiling  contentment;  little  gardens  where 
are  flowing  brooks,  and  buff  or  heliotrope  colored  cottage 
walls,  with  windows  bright  with  fuchsias,  roses  and 
dahlias,  and  here  and  there  the  flower  framed  face  of  a 
woman  glancing  out  at  us  as  we  passed.  "Via,  les 
Touristes." — They  have  come!  The  sun  shining  with 
spendthrift  glory  flooded  the  long  smooth  road  and  the 
low  houses. 

The  eye  passed  over  nests  of* sweet  clover;  over  the 
tops  of  apple  and  peach  trees  now  frosted  with  blossoms. 
The  fields  were  full  of  cattle,  and  the  women  who 
watched  them  ceaselessly  knitted.  They  were  broad 
hipped  figures  clad  in  coarse  skirts  of  blue  or  brown  stuff, 
with  dark  bodices  and  bright  pink  or  orange  kerchiefs. 

23 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Some  of  these  toiled  from  the  fields  bearing  full  jugs  of 
milk,  which  they  carried  not  ungracefully.  In  the  dis- 
tance were  the  figures  of  ploughmen,  rising  and  falling 
with  the  rolling  of  the  land,  turning  the  fertile  sod  for 
the  new  crop.  All  was  peaceful  on  the  Alsatian  border 
that  sunny  afternoon  of  1910. 

"At  the  top  of  the  road,  M'sieur  and  Madame,  just 
above,  is  the  boundary  line  between  France  and  Alsace,** 
said  the  chauffeur.  "On  this  side  you  will  sec  a  monu- 
ment, on  the  top  of  which  is  a  cock  in  bronze  looking 
towards  France.  Below,  M'sieur  and  Madame  will  sec 
a  bronze  figure  of  Victory  with  wreaths  in  each  hand,  and 
on  the  stone  shaft  is  carved  the  words,  *To  the  Soldiers 
of  France,  who  died  for  their  Country.'  There  fell  my 
father  in  1870.  Always  there  are  wreaths  of  fresh 
flowers  on  the  mounds  hereabouts,  but  those  who  lay  them 
there  are  mainly  the  children  of  exiles  from  German 
Alsace  now  living  in  France." 

Here  lies  the  frontier,  its  boundary  marked  by  the  tall 
iron  pole,  striped  with  black  and  white,  and  bearing  on  a 
shield  at  the  top,  on  one  side  the  arms  of  France  with  the 
letters  R.  F.  and  on  the  reverse,  the  sprawled  out  and 
crowned  eagle  of  Prussia,  over  which  are  the  words 
*' Dents  dies  Reich"  the  mark  of  the  Usurper,  the  oppres- 
sor, which  the  children  of  the  country-side  call  "La 
Chauve-Souris"  (The  Bat) — not  aloud,  you  understand, 
but  in  half  whispers  among  themselves.     Upon  the  occa- 

24 


THE  LOST  PROVINCES 

sion  of  my  first  visit,  twenty  years  after  the  Franco-Prus- 
sian war,  such  frankness  was  inadvisable  on  the  border. 
Crossing  the  Vosges  at  that  time  into  Alsace-Lorraine,  it 
was  then  difficult  for  the  tourist  to  "get  at"  the  people; 
they  were  still  too  sore  at  heart  to  talk  much  even  if  they 
trusted  one, — and  the  painter  is  ever  trusted  by  the  peas- 
ants, and  cordially  welcomed  to  the  house  and  a  place  at 
the  fireside  freely  offered  to  him.  At  these  firesides  one 
has  sat  quietly  listening  to  the  discussions  of  the  elders, 
who  at  times  forgot  the  presence  of  the  stranger,  and 
voiced  their  feelings  freely.  One  has  thus  listened  to 
their  opinions  of  the  annexation;  of  the  Protestation  of 
1874  ^^  Strassburg  and  Mulhouse;  of  the  agitations  of 
1887;  ^^  ^h^  dissolution  of  the  Reichstag;  of  the  Bou- 
langist  movement  in  Paris;  the  Schnaebele  incident,  and 
the  passport  regulations,  down  to  the  Zabern  outrage. 
But  even  after  this  intimacy  it  is  not  proper  to  say  that 
one  knows  the  people,  so  that  these  notes  must  not  be 
taken  in  a  more  serious  vein  than  that  in  which  they  are 
written,  the  object  being  perhaps  to  entertain  rather  than 
to  instruct.  The  route  followed  is  haphazard,  and  this 
book  is  quite  useless  as  a  guide  book.  With  this  warn- 
ing the  reader  may  be  content  to  proceed. 

One  may  well  pardon  the  Alsatians  for  saying  and  be- 
lieving that  their  country  is  the  most  beautiful  on  earth, 
for  it  offers  to  the  eye  a  panorama  of  exquisite  hill  and 
valley  and  silvery  streams.     Lying  between  the  Vosges 

25 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

and  the  Jura  and  bordered  by  the  curve  of  the  Rhine  lies 
this  little  country,  the  land  of  unshed  tears.  Mulhouse 
is  at  the  entrance  or  foyer,  Belfort  (Vosges)  at  one  side 
and  Huningue  (Jura)  at  the  other.  The  railway  paral- 
lels the  Rhine  from  Wissembourg-Hagenau  to  S trass- 
burg,  branching  off  to  Schlestadt-Ribeauville  and  re- 
turning to  Mulhouse.  The  whole  length  of  the  Vosges 
one  sees  the  evidences  of  the  ancient  torrents,  in  the  sandy 
plateaus  and  the  talus  left  by  the  glaciers. 

The  mountains  and  high  hills  are  crowned  by  heavy 
forests  of  oak  and  pine,  in  which  are  yet  found  the 
ancient  altars  of  the  Druids,  and  dotted  here  and  there 
with  the  ruins  of  great  castles  of  the  Barons  of  Alsace, 
which  in  the  olden  days  resounded  with  the  melodious 
notes  of  the  hunter's  horn,  and  the  baying  of  hounds  on 
the  scent  of  the  fleet  footed  stag. 

Northward  one  finds  the  plains  of  the  Zorn,  bordered 
by  the  forest  of  Brumath;  the  picturesque  valley  of  the 
Moder;  the  ancient  sylvan  haunt  of  the  Hagenaus,  where 
in  the  middle  ages  the  great  Charlemagne  was  wont  to 
gather  his  knights  for  hunt  and  feast.  One  may  follow 
the  many  charming  streams  throughout  the  province  with 
great  artistic  return ;  for  instance,  the  various  tributaries 
of  the  111,  such  as  La  Laich  and  the  Grand-Ballon.  The 
former  serves  as  a  silver  setting  for  the  charming  little 
industrial  town  of  Guebwiller,  whose  smoking  chimneys 
are  curtained  by  splendid  trees  massed  against  sloping 

26 


e^-rr^:.-^ 


'UfJi  <^<i  h«nso  on  ifi«-  J^vHrWejSS  a 


»J-apf<r  AilsSace. 


THE  LOST  PROVINCES 

hillside  vineyards  all  gold  and  green  in  the  sunlight. 
Farther  on  is  the  old  turreted  town  of  Soultz,  with  an- 
cient houses  of  quaint  outside  staircases,  and  dim  streets 
blocked  by  lavishly  sculptured  stone  fountains.  They 
say  that  the  old  walls  which  formerly  surrounded  the 
town  were  pulled  down  and  used  in  the  construction  of 
many  of  the  houses,  which  indeed  have  no  aspect  of  new- 
ness that  one  can  now  discover.  This  river  La  Laich 
empties  into  the  111  at  Colmar. 

The  river  Fecht,  of  swiftly  running  water,  is  used  to 
run  countless  mills  along  its  course  to  the  interesting  old 
town  of  Tiirckheim,  with  its  old  gateway — a  comforta- 
ble halting  place  for  the  voyager.  Within  the  mossy 
walls  of  the  "Deux  Clefs"  (The  Two  Keys)  in  the  sleepy 
square  of  a  half  forgotten  town  is  a  community  of  about 
two  thousand  quaintly  costumed  people,  who  are  well 
nigh  all  engaged  in  the  neighboring  vineyards.  One 
could  live  here  in  great  comfort  and  enjoyment  at  a  cost 
of  three  or  four  marks  a  day.  Near  by,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  valley,  are  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Hohlandsburg, 
destroyed  in  1635,  and  said  to  be  haunted  by  a  stone 
throwing  ghost,  who,  however,  failed  to  cast  one  at  the 
present  chronicler. 

On  the  river  Weiss  is  Kaysersburg,  a  town  noted  as 
one  of  the  Imperial  Appanages  of  the  ancient  Decapole 
of  Alsatia.  The  sketch  which  I  made  of  it  one  Sunday 
morning  shows  better  than  description  the  character  of 

27 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

the  old  byway  and  the  quaint  peaked  roofed  houses 
against  the  dark  green  hillside.  See,  through  the  old 
arched  gateway,  the  entrance  to  the  small  church  with  its 
mellow-toned  and  creamy  whitewashed  walls;  the  lace 
curtained  windows  of  the  high  gabled  house  beyond,  and 
the  iron  work  finials  on  the  house  tops. 

Here  the  peasants,  clad  in  opera  bouffe  costumes,  lin- 
ger after  church,  along  the  walled  roadway  bordering 
the  half  dried  streamlet,  discussing  the  sermon,  the  day's 
happenings,  or  what  not. 

At  Ribeauville  flows  the  Strengbach,  called  the  "Pearl 
of  the  Vosges,"  and  at  Liepvrette  the  babbling  stream 
laves  Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines,  said  to  be  one  of  the  rich- 
est and  fairest  of  the  towns  of  Haute-Alsace,  rivaling 
Mulhouse  for  industry. 

Beyond  the  valley  the  Leipvrette  joins  the  Giessen, 
and  flows  into  the  Landgraben,  an  ancient  ditch  dug,  it 
is  said,  by  order  of  Charlemagne  to  delimit  the  Nordgau 
and  the  Sundgau  departments. 

"The  river  Rhine  is  the  natural  limit  of  the  great 
Alsatian  plain,  but  it  is  the  river  111  which  dominates 
it."  ' 

This  river  111  is  born,  lives  and  vanishes  in  Alsace.  It 
has  its  source  at  a  small  place  called  Trinkel  near  the 
hamlet  of  Ferrette,  where  in  a  dim  dark  wood  dwell  the 
strange  sect  of  Anabaptists,  and  the  hermit-like  families 

*  "Proyinces  Perdues,"  Ardouin-Dumazet. 

28 


THE  LOST  PROVINCES 

of  the  wood  cutters  {Schlitteurs) .  Lost  lower  down  in 
wild  rocky  fissures,  it  appears  again  below  the  village  of 
Ligsdorf.  Turning  abruptly  eastward  toward  Bale,  it 
again  changes  its  erratic  course  to  the  northwest  toward 
Altkirch  and  Mulhouse.  At  Largue  it  receives  the 
waters  of  a  small  affluent  coming  from  the  Jura,  passing 
the  villages  of  Seppois-le-Bas,  Moos  and  Dannemarie — 
consecrated  names  in  the  province  through  their  great 
part  in  the  bloody  war  of  deliverance.  At  Mulhouse  the 
river  assumes  worthily  her  name  and  justifies  her  fame. 
All  the  streams  descending  from  the  Vosges  flow  to  her, 
and  on  their  way  do  their  part  in  furnishing  power  to 
the  countless  mills  on  their  banks. 

The  greatest  of  these  tributaries  is  of  course  the  Doller, 
born  in  the  small  lake  called  the  Serven,  lying  among  the 
plateaus  of  the  ancient  moraines  formed  by  the  glaciers. 
In  its  passage  the  Doller  winds  about  such  charming  vil- 
lages as  Mase-vaux,  Laun,  Aspach,  Burnhaupt  and  Dor- 
nach.  There  is  too,  the  Thur,  another  very  important 
tributary  on  which  are  the  quaint  and  busy  towns  of  Wes- 
serling,  Saint-Amarine  and  Malmerspach  in  the  high  val- 
ley, and  in  the  lower  one,  Ville,  Biltchwiller,  Thann  (see 
picture),  and  Vieux-Thann,  all  manufacturing  places  of 
great  activity  and  prosperity.  Then  that  vast  plain  of 
twenty  thousand  acres,  the  Champs-des-Boeufs  (Ochsen- 
feldt),  which  gives  name  to  a  kind  of  pudding  much 
esteemed  by  the  people  and  sold  at  a  great  yearly  cattle 

29 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

fair,  which  draws  great  crowds  of  peasants  and  visitors 
from  far  and  near. 

The  river  111  flowing  through  Strassburg  empties  into 
the  Rhine  near  the  charming  village  of  the  Wantzenau 
called  by  Edmund  About  the  ''pays  des  bonnes  poules." 
He  continues :  "I  have  spoken  at  length  of  the  111,  be- 
cause it  is  more  than  any  other  the  great  vital  artery  of 
Alsace.  The  three  most  populous  towns,  Mulhouse, 
Colmar  and  Strassburg,  were  born  upon  its  banks.  All 
the  noble  valleys  of  the  Vosges  open  upon  the  plain 
through  which  it  runs;  all  the  other  rivers,  all  the  moun- 
tain torrents,  the  brooks  unite  with  it,  and  it  is  thus  with 
reason  that  the  country  lying  between  the  Vosges  and  the 
Rhine  is  named  Alsace — El-sass — the  country  of  the  111.  \.f(^^ 
Uniting  all  the  streams,  it  penetrates  to  the  noble  city  of 
Strassburg,  where  beats  the  heart  of  Alsace." 

Northward  of  Schlestadt  between  Hochfelden  and 
Strassburg  one  enters  the  gently  undulating  country 
called  the  Kocherberg,  the  rural  and  agricultural  section 
where  are  best  preserved  the  quaint  usages  and  customs 
of  ancient  Alsace;  where  painters  such  as  Kauffman, 
Henri  Loux,  Dove,  Theophile  Schuler,  to  mention  only 
a  few  of  the  long  list  of  famous  names,  found  their  genre 
subjects.  .  .  .  One  could  continue  this  description  for 
pages  without  more  than  touching  upon  the  attractions 
of  the  little  community. 

Of  legend  there  are  unwritten  volumes  to  be  listened 

30 


THE  LOST  PROVINCES 

to  if  one  is  interested,  and  considering  the  important 
place  that  the  culture  of  the  grape  has  in  the  life  of  the 
province,  it  is  not  strange  that  most  of  them  are  con- 
nected in  some  way  with  the  product.  There  is  too  great 
rivalry  between  the  different  vineyards.  One  of  the 
local  songs  is  as  follows : 

**A  Thann  dans  la  'Rangen' 
A  Guebwiller  dans  la  *Wann' 
A  Tiirckheim  dans  la  'Brand' 
Croissant  les  meilleurs  du  pays, 
Mais  a  Riquewihr  le  'Sporen' 
Leur  dame  a  tons  le  pion." 

At  Hunawihr  there  is  a  most  curious  specimen  of  for- 
tified church,  near  which  gushes  forth  a  fountain  dedi- 
cated to  and  named  for  Saint  Huna,  who  was,  according 
to  the  legend,  a  chatelaine  of  the  place.  Follows  the 
legend :  Once  upon  a  time  the  blight  fell  upon  the  vine- 
yards here,  and  there  were  no  grapes  to  be  gathered. 
The  people  in  consequence  were  near  starvation,  and  in 
their  extremity  flocked  to  the  Saint,  beseeching  succor  at 
her  hands.  They  came  in  procession  through  the 
crooked  streets  of  the  town  crying  aloud  their  woes.  It 
may  be  imagined  that  Saint  Huna  could  not  remain  deaf 
to  such  piteous  supplications  on  the  part  of  her  people, 
and  lo !  even  as  the  first  peasant  set  foot  upon  the  thresh- 
old of  the  church,  the  miracle  happened.  From  the  four 
spouts  of  the  old  fountain  before  the  door  gushed  forth 

31 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

good  red  wine,  in  such  profusion  that  every  receptacle, 
cask,  tub,  pail  and  pitcher  in  the  town  was  filled  to  the 
brim  and  "there  never  was  so  much  wine  before  or  since 
in  the  community."  So  fell  the  legend  from  the  lips  of 
an  old  dame,  who  sat  knitting  in  the  sun  on  the  steps  of 
the  sacred  fountain  of  Hunawihr. 

The  natural  chasm  of  the  Vosges  is  heightened  by 
countless  ruins  of  the  great  feudal  castles  and  monas- 
teries with  which  it  abounds.  Perhaps  no  other  region 
in  Europe  contains  so  many  as  are  to  be  found  on  these 
rugged  high  hills,  which  form  something  of  a  natural 
defense  against  the  German  enemy.  These  ruined 
"Chateaux-fortes"  reveal  to  the  educated  eye  of  the  anti- 
quary Celtic,  Gallic,  or  Romanic  types  of  construction, 
in  all  their  varieties.  One  may  study  the  ruins  of  the 
Chateaux  of  Spesburg;  of  Girbaden;  Birkenfels;  d'And- 
lau;  Driestein  and  Landsberg;  all  near  Sainte-Odile, 
crowned  with  its  great  convent. 

"In  the  Belfort  region  alone  there  are  at  least  a  hun- 
dred noble  ruins  to  be  found,  where  great  courts  are  car- 
peted now  with  green  moss,  and  the  walls  are  cur- 
tained with  ivy.  At  Engelburg  the  great  Donjon  is  still 
to  be  seen,  where  through  the  hole  in  the  large  mass  of 
stone  set  upright  on  its  side,  which  is  called  by  the  super- 
stitious peasantry  'The  Eye  of  the  Sorcerer,'  a  magnifi- 
cent view  of  the  dim  valley  is  to  be  had.  Near  Gueb- 
willer  are  the  remains  of  the  renowned  Abbey  of  Mur- 

32 


THE  LOST  PROVINCES 

bach  of  the  Roman  period,  with  two  great  towers 
surmounting  a  transept.  Also  the  'Trois-chateaux'  of 
Eguisheim,  where  Leon  IX,  son  of  Hugues  IV,  Count  of 
Eguisheim  and  Ida  of  Dagsbourg,  descendants  of  Char- 
lemagne in  the  maternal  line,  and  Ethicon,  Duke  of  Al- 
sace, father  of  Sainte  Odile,  and  ancestor  of  five  dynasties 
of  Europe — Hapsburg,  Suabia,  Bourbon,  Lorraine  and 
Baden,  was  born."  ^ 

The  list  of  chateaux  is  far  too  long  to  include  here,  but 
one  must  name  Sainte-Odile,  with  its  ancient  "mur 
paYen,"  called  the  heart  of  mystic  Alsace,  from  whose 
summit  is  revealed  the  smiling  valleys  of  Sainte-Marie 
and  Ville,  of  Ortenberg  and  the  Ramstein,  and  the  deep 
dark  forests  of  Lutzelbourg,  Kapfel,  Klingenthal,  Hagel- 
schloss,  Ratsamhausen,  Hagenfels,  Birkenfels,  Drie- 
stein,  Andlau,  Spesburg  and  Landsberg. 

At  Hoh-Bar  Chateau  in  the  Savern  country  dwelt  the 
great  Bishops  of  Strassburg.  This  castle  dominates  the 
whole  valley  of  the  Zorn.  Here  is  the  famed  mount  of 
Savern,  still  bordered  by  the  row  of  venerable  poplars  so 
admired  by  Louis  XIV. 

But  this  little  sketch  cannot  pretend  to  give  a  complete 
list  of  the  famous  places  and  ancient  castles  of  Alsace, 
nor  to  describe  their  glories.  Suffice  it  if  one  can  simply 
whet  the  appetite,  for  the  feast  that  is  offered,  by  this 
account  of  a  little  known  region. 

*  "  'L' Alsace."    Leon  Boll  (Directeur  du  Journal  d' Alsace-Lorraine) y  Paris. 

33 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

In  a  chapter  written  by  M.  Daniel  Blumenthal,  former 
Mayor  of  Colmar,  for  the  book  *'L' Alsace-Lorraine,"  he 
says:  "The  Germans  and  the  Alsatians  can  never  meet 
upon  common  ground  because  the  Teutonic  mind  is  abso- 
lutely irreconcilable  with  the  delicate  sensibility  of  that 
of  the  Alsatian.  The  Teuton  has  absolutely  no  sense  of 
humor  and  lacks  tact.  When  the  Germans  took  posses- 
sion of  the  provinces  after  the  war,  the  various  officials 
sought  to  rule  by  force,  and  with  entire  disregard  of  the 
established  usages  and  traditions  of  the  country.  This 
lack  of  grace  and  tact  wounded  the  spirits  of  the  Alsa- 
tians, and  killed  at  once  and  forever  whatever  feeling  of 
tolerance  they  may  have  had  for  the  invaders.  The 
Teuton  is  ever  and  above  all  a  man  of  violence,  and  the 
new  official  heads  of  the  various  municipal  departments 
began  at  once  a  regime  of  persecution  and  punishment 
against  the  unfortunate  people  for  the  most  petty  and 
futile  causes.  The  singing  of  the  tune  or  words  of  the 
'Marseillaise,'  or  having  in  one's  possession  the  colors 
of  France,  was  sufficient  to  cause  the  arrest  and  punish- 
ment of  the  offender." 

He  continues,  "1  recall  the  case  of  the  two  young  fel- 
lows, who  being  a  trifle  the  worse  for  drink  during  a  'pa- 
tronale  fete,'  cried  'Vive  la  France'  in  the  hearing  of 
a  gend'arme,  who  thereupon  arrested  and  haled  them  be- 
fore the  German  magistrate,  who  promptly  sentenced 
them  to  eighteen  months'  imprisonment.     The  German 

34 


THE  LOST  PROVINCES 

administrators  of  'Justice*  are  repeatedly  shown  by  well- 
known  cases  to  be  absolutely  incapable  of  impartiality 
where  an  Alsatian  is  concerned." 

Concerning  the  humor  of  the  Alsatians  he  says :  "The 
people  never  fail  to  seize  the  opportunity  to  make  fun 
of  the  invaders.  For  instance,  there  is  the  legend  of 
the  mouse,  which  as  an  'Ex  voto,'  may  be  seen  hung  up 
beside  the  altars  of  the  small  country  churches  and 
chapels.  One  day,  during  a  'pilgrimage,'  as  these  fete 
days  are  called,  a  German  officer,  drawn  thither  by 
curiosity,  encountered  an  old  peasant  woman  near  an 
altar,  where,  among  the  other  objects  and  offerings,  was 
a  silver  mouse.  'And  what,  my  good  woman,  is  that 
for?'  he  asked.  The  peasant  explained  that  the  country 
was  being  ravaged  by  rats,  and  in  supplication  to  the 
Saint,  the  silver  mouse  was  an  offering  and  a  prayer  for 
succor  and  release  from  the  pest.  *But  come  now,' 
contemptuously  asked  the  burly  officer,  'do  you  believe, 
seriously,  in  such  incredible  idiocy?'  'My  good  Mon- 
sieur,' responded  she  with  a  shy  smile,  'if  we  were  abso- 
lutely sure  that  our  prayers  would  be  granted  we  would 
long  ago  have  hung  up  a  solid  gold  Prussian !'  " 


35 


(pf  (SmAin  ilfofif 


aLSACE-LORRAINE  territorially  is  only  about 
five  thousand  six  hundred  miles  in  extent,  say  a 
little  larger  than  the  State  of  Connecticut,  and 
with  a  population  of  about  one  and  a  half  million,  who 
really,  it  is  urged,  are,  and  have  been  since  their  enforced 
annexation  and  oppression,  more  French  than  the  Pari- 
sians, General  Foy  said  enthusiastically  of  the  Alsa- 
tians, "If  ever  the  love  of  all  that  is  great  and  generous 
grows  faint  in  the  hearts  of  the  people  of  France,  it  will 
be  necessary  only  for  them  to  pass  the  Vosges  Mountains 
into  Alsace  to  recover  their  patriotism  and  their  energy/* 

To  one  statesman  who  complained  to  him  that  the 
Alsatians  spoke  a  German  patois.  Napoleon  replied  with 
vehemence :  ''What  matters  that^ — Though  they  speak 
German,  they  salver  in  French  I'* 

Admitting  that  to-day  only  a  scant  third  of  the  people 
habitually  use  the  French  tongue,  even  the  most  ignorant 
of  the  peasantry  are  conversant  with  French,  while 
among  the  more  educated  and  cultivated  it  is  universal, 
even  though  after  the  annexation  the  offices  of  public 
functionaries,  such  as  school  teachers,  mayors  and  rail- 

39 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

road  officials  were  appointed  by  Berlin,  which  controlled 
most  of  the  institutions  and  dominated  the  press. 

The  authorities  since  then  have  made  every  endeavor 
to  suppress  and  discourage  the  use  of  the  French  lan- 
guage in  the  province.  Thus  according  to  a  decree  pub- 
licly announced  no  school  either  public  or  private  may 
use  or  teach  it.  Meetings  either  in  public  or  private 
were  promptly  debarred  from  using  the  language;  even 
the  French  theatres  were  closed  to  French  plays.  The 
ceremonies  of  the  closing  of  French  schools  were  marked 
by  the  most  pathetic  scenes  recorded  in  the  literature  of 
Alsace-Lorraine.  The  French  signs  over  the  shops,  even 
in  the  smallest  towns  as  well  as  the  larger  ones  through- 
out the  unhappy  land,  were  forbidden  and  ordered 
changed  to  German  by  decree  publicly  posted. 

In  Strassburg,  according  to  record,  a  barber  was  ar- 
rested and  heavily  fined  as  an  example,  for  refusing  to 
take  down  his  sign,  which  bore  the  word  "Coiffeur" ;  but 
strangely  enough  he  was  permitted  to  use  the  word 
"Friseur"  instead.  A  hotel  keeper  was  conmianded  to 
paint  out  the  word  "Restaurant,"  and  use  instead  the 
German  word  "Restauration."  The  name  of  Alsace- 
Lorraine  was  replaced  by  Elsass-Lothringen.  To  use 
the  French  phrase  "a  bientot"  was  pronounced  treason- 
able, being  deemed  by  the  authorities  the  expression  of  a 
hope  that  France  should  again  rule  Alsace-Lorraine.  In 
fact,  all  salutations  in  French  rendered  the  users  liable  to 

40 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

arrest  and  fine.  Thus  the  usurpers  relied  upon  the  en- 
forced and  extended  use  of  the  German  language  in  the 
province  to  prove  irresistibly  the  essential  Teutonism  of 
the  people.  The  book  shops  were  forbidden  to  have  in 
their  possession  any  of  the  works  of  standard  French  au- 
thors; especially  the  books  of  Daudet,  Erckmann-Chat- 
rian  and  Edmond  About  were  interdicted.  But  it  may 
be  said  that  these  as  well  as  many  others  might  always  be 
had  by  those  purchasers  vouched  for  by  trusted  per- 
sons. 

Soon  after  the  annexation  the  officials  used  every 
sort  of  trick  and  intrigue  to  detect  and  convict  of  treason 
such  Alsatians  as  they  wished  to  rid  themselves  of.  The 
**Ligue  des  Patriotes'*  was  formed  secretly  at  Strassburg 
by  loyal  Frenchmen  who  pledged  themselves  to  labor  for 
the  salvation  of  Alsace-Lorraine.  The  organization  had 
no  sooner  begun  its  work  than  it  was  betrayed  by  a 
housemaid,  a  German  spy,  and  the  members  were  arrested 
by  the  police,  who  searched  the  domiciles,  found  and 
seized  the  records  and  pamphlets,  and  the  leaders  were 
tried  by  the  court,  convicted  and  sentenced  to  various 
terms  of  imprisonment,  some  receiving  as  much  as  ten 
years  in  prison  for  their  patriotism.  In  protestation  the 
inhabitants  resolved  to  refuse  to  recognise  or  maintain 
any  sort  of  social  relations  with  the  German  officials. 

The  entertainments  conducted  by  the  Germans  were 
scrupulously     avoided    by    the     loyal     people.     The 

41 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

German  theatres  were  often  forced  to  play  to  empty 
benches,  although  they  were  kept  open  and  running  by 
subsidy  from  the  Government,  which  used  every  artifice 
to  force  their  plans  of  subjugation  upon  the  people. 
Thus  they  sometimes  selected  a  known  patriot  for  some 
small  office  or  honor,  but  should  he  accept  he  was  cer- 
tainly expelled  from  the  league,  and  ostracised  socially. 

Should  an  Alsatian  girl  so  far  forget  her  vows  as  to 
espouse  a  German,  henceforth  she  was  disowned  by  her 
own  people,  and  considered  as  one  dead.  Thus  society 
dealt  with  the  invader  in  the  two  inseparable  provinces 
of  Alsace-Lorraine. 

Then  fell  the  heavy  hand  of  the  great  German  military 
system  upon  the  people.  The  larger  towns  became  large 
military  depots,  housing  thousands  of  soldiers  in  the 
hated  uniforms.  The  streets  were  filled  with  marching 
men,  and  night  and  day  heavy  rumbling  army  wagons 
occupied  the  streets.  Officers  swaggered  along  the  side- 
walks arm  in  arm,  pushing  the  inhabitants  rudely  into  the 
gutters;  they  filled  the  cafes;  they  guzzled  beer,  were 
noisy,  and  insolent,  seeking  quarrels  with  civilians,  who 
had  no  redress  if  attacked  or  insulted.  No  young 
woman  was  safe  from  their  unwelcome  attentions,  and 
some  of  the  recorded  acts  of  these  officers  are  well  nigh 
unbelievable;  but  the  details  of  these  offenses  can  have 
no  place  in  these  pages. 

42 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

Their  treatment  of  civilians  was  part  of  the  plan  of 
subjugation.  Unless  young  men  are  surreptitiously  sent 
away  into  France  by  their  parents,  they  can  get  no  other 
education  than  that  imposed  upon  them  in  the  military 
training  schools  maintained  by  the  German  system. 
Thus  if  they  succeed  in  evading  the  established  rule  and 
leave  without  registering  at  headquarters  they  are  out- 
lawed, and  treated  as  deserters  from  military  service,  nor 
can  they  ever  return  without  suffering  heavy  penalty  and 
consequent  imprisonment.  Even  in  the  elementary 
schools  the  young  boys  are  formed  into  military  com- 
panies under  appointed  petty  ofBcers,  and  forced  to 
adopt  the  "goose  step."  The  sight  is  ridiculous  in  the 
extreme,  but  woe  be  to  him  who  ventures  to  laugh  when 
the  hapless  children  thus  pass  marching  under  the  watch- 
ful eye  of  the  drill-sergeant;  this  is  an  offense  against 
the  Emperor  and  is  punishable  by  fine. 

In  the  small  Alsatian  town  of  Zabern  a  poor  crippled 
cobbler  watched  one  day  from  his  shop  door  a  num- 
ber of  officers  who  were  pompously  parading  the  street. 
One  of  these  was  a  very  young  red-faced,  yellow-haired 
fellow,  hardly  more  than  a  boy,  but  gorgeously  clad  in 
the  uniform  of  a  lieutenant,  with  dangling  sword.  The 
sight  of  this  youth  moved  the  poor  cripple  to  hysterical 
laughter,  in  which  some  of  the  bystanders  joined.  The 
lieutenant  turned  upon  him  furiously  and  ran  the  crip- 

43 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

pled  cobbler  through  the  body  with  his  sword.  The 
cobbler  died  then  and  there. 

The  military  authorities  gravely  held  court  martial 
and  exonerated  the  lieutenant,  praising  him  for  having 
protected  the  honor  of  the  uniform  and  the  army.  The 
cobbler,  dead,  was  convicted  of  *'lese  majeste." 

The  further  details  of  the  "Zabern  Incident"  are  as 
follows: 

In  December,  1913,  the  Alsatians,  nowhere  patient  of 
German  government,  had  shown  what  was  regarded  by 
the  authorities  as  lack  of  respect  for  the  garrison  troops. 
A  young  Prussian  lieutenant,  Von  Forstner,  referred  to 
above,  thereupon  offered  a  reward  of  ten  marks  to  any 
soldier  who,  if  "insulted"  by  a  native  of  the  town,  struck 
the  offender  and  brought  him  into  barracks. 

In  the  harangue  he  used  an  insulting  term  to  denote 
Alsatians;  and  it  is  worth  observing,  in  view  of  what 
followed,  that  the  definition  of  what  constituted  an  in- 
sult was  left  entirely  to  the  troops. 

The  nature  and  language  of  Lieutenant  Von  Forst- 
ner's  address  becoming  known,  there  was  an  unfriendly 
demonstration  by  the  townspeople  of  Zabern  outside  the 
officer's  mess,  which  was  dispersed  by  soldiers  with 
loaded  rifles.  The  lieutenant  then  "went  out  shop- 
ping," escorted  by  four  soldiers  with  fixed  bayonets.  In 
the  evening  the  popular  excitement  increased;  where- 

44 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

upon  the  colonel  of  the  regiment  proclaimed  martial  law 
and  placed  machine  guns  in  the  streets.  The  scene 
which  followed  is  thus  described  in  the  calm  pages  of 
the  Annual  Register:  ^ 

"A  fireman  who  left  his  supper  when  he  heard  the 
drums  of  the  regiment  was  arrested  at  his  door;  the  Judge 
and  counsel  of  the  Civil  Court,  which  had  just  risen, 
were  also  arrested  as  they  were  leaving  the  Court.  The 
Judge  was  allowed  to  go  home,  but  all  the  others  (twen- 
ty-seven in  number)  spent  the  night  In  the  cellars  of  the 
barracks,  and  were  only  liberated  the  next  day,  when 
they  were  brought  before  the  Judge  for  trial.  ...  A 
further  aggravation  of  the  scandal  was  the  arrest  of  a 
man  and  his  wife  at  Metz,  because  the  wife  laughed  at 
a  passing  patrol."  Judicial  proceedings  followed,  in 
which  it  was  proved  that  "When  warned  that  his  unpro- 
voked incitement  of  the  population  was  likely  to  lead 
to  bloodshed,"  Colonel  Von  Renter,  who  commanded 
Von  Forstner's  regiment,  had  said  that  "Bloodshed 
would  be  a  good  thing,"  and  that  civilians  had  been  ar- 
rested for  "Intending  to  laugh."  The  colonel  was 
finally  acquitted  on  the  ground  that  'Tie  did  not  know 
that  he  acted  illegally."  He  himself  based  his  action 
on  a  Prussian  Cabinet  order  of  the  year  1820. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  this  example  of  military 

*  The  Annual  Register^  1913»  P*  S^Q* 

45 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

zeal  was  universally  approved  in  Germany.  It  aroused 
a  storm  of  controversy,  and  the  Reichstag  actually  passed 
a  resolution  by  293  votes  to  54  declaring  that  it  was  dis- 
satisfied with  the  Chancellor's  rather  half-hearted  de- 
fense of  the  conduct  of  the  garrison.  But  the  protest  of 
the  Reichstag  and  the  more  independent  sections  of  the 
public  was  entirely  ineffectual.  The  Crown  Prince  had 
telegraphed  to  Colonel  Von  Renter  during  his  trial,  ex- 
horting him  C'lmmer  feste  darau")  to  "stick  to  it";  and 
General  Von  Falkenhayn,  the  Prussian  Minister  of  War, 
had  declared  in  the  Reichstag  that  "What  they  had  to 
deal  with  was  not  the  degree  of  a  lieutenant's  offense, 
but  a  determined  attempt  by  press  agitation  and  abuse 
to  exercise  an  unlawful  influence  upon  the  decision  of 
the  authorities.^*  Dr.  Jagow,  the  Police  President  at 
Berlin,  afterwards  supported  these  views  of  the  matter, 
and  telegraphed  to  Colonel  Von  Renter  during  his  trial, 
"Exercises  are  acts  of  sovereignty,  and  if  obstacles  are 
placed  in  the  way  of  their  performance,  the  obstacles 
must  be  removed  in  the  execution  of  this  act  of  sover- 
eignty." Dr.  Jagow  may  be  supposed,  in  virtue  of  the 
office  he  held,  not  to  have  expressed  public  opinion  on 
matters  of  state  without  some  idea  whether  those  opin- 
ions were  agreeable  to  the  Government.  When  the 
pother  had  died  down,  his  theory  that  "Military  exer- 
cises"— such  as  running  lame  cobblers  through  the  body, 
and  shopping  with  fixed  bayonets — "are  acts  of  sover- 

46 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

eignty"  apparently  held  the  field,  so  far  as  official  Ger- 
many was  concerned. 

The  very  mild  sentence  of  forty-three  days'  detention 
passed  on  Lieutenant  Von  Forstner  was  quashed  by  a 
higher  military  court,  and  (as  we  have  seen)  Colonel  Von 
Renter  was  decorated  with  a  Prussian  Order  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  new  year.  It  would  hardly  have  been 
possible  to  demonstrate  more  clearly  that  in  the  eyes  of 
the  German  government  there  is  one  law  for  the  army 
and  another  for  civilians,  and  that  civil  must  yield  to 
military  rights  whenever  they  conflict.  "One  is  often 
pained  and  overcome  with  longing"  (writes  a  modern 
German  professor) ,  "as  one  thinks  of  the  German  of  a 
hundred  years  ago.  He  was  poor,  he  was  impotent,  he 
was  despised,  ridiculed  and  defrauded.  He  was  the  un- 
complaining slave  of  others;  his  fields  were  their  battle- 
ground, and  the  goods  which  he  had  inherited  from  his 
fathers  were  trodden  under  foot  and  dispersed.  He 
never  troubled  when  the  riches  of  the  outside  world  were 
divided  without  regard  for  him.  He  sat  in  his  little 
bare  room  under  the  roof  in  simple  coat  and  clumsy 
shoes;  but  his  heart  was  full  of  sweet  dreams,  and  up- 
lifted by  the  chords  of  Beethoven  to  a  rapture  which 
threatened  to  rend  his  breast.  He  wept  with  Werther 
and  Jean  Paul  in  joyous  pain,  he  smiled  with  the  childish 
innocence  of  his  nai've  poets,  the  happiness  of  his  longing 
consumed  him,  and  as  he  listened  to  Schubert's  song  his 

47 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

soul  became  one  with  the  soul  of  the  universe.  Let  us 
think  no  more  of  it — it  is  useless  !'*  * 

Germany  claims  that  Alsace-Lorraine  was  German  ter- 
ritory that  was  justly  restored  to  her;  that  "in  taking  back 
the  provinces  she  accomplished  an  act  of  supreme  na- 
tional and  historic  justice";  such  is  the  utterance  of  the 
official  publication  of  the  Emperor,  the  Nord-Deutsche 
Algemeine  Zeitung. 

Is  this  so?  In  the  first  place,  the  people  of  Alsace- 
Lorraine  are  not  all  as  thoroughly  German  as  is  claimed 
by  the  Zeitung^  but  those  of  the  province  who  are  have 
certainly  purer  German  blood  flowing  in  their  veins  than 
the  pseudo-Germans — those  from  beyond  the  Elbe  and 
the  Rhine — who  are  certainly  of  a  very  mixed  race,  in- 
deed, authorities  say,  somewhat  more  than  sixty  per  cent. 
Slav.  German  lust  for  Alsace-Lorraine  was  very  evi- 
dent even  in  the  days  of  Julius  Caesar.  In  his  "Commen- 
taries" one  may  read  of  the  Teutonic  covctousness  for 
the  lands  of  the  Sequanians,  who  occupied  what  is  now 
Alsace-Lorraine. 

"Ariovistus,  the  king  of  the  Germans,  had  settled  in 
their  territory,  and  had  seized  upon  one  third  of  it,  the 
best  land  in  the  whole  of  Gaul;  and  now  he  demanded 
that  the  natives  should  vacate  another  third,  because  a 
few  months  previously  twenty  four  thousand  Harndes 

*  "Der  Kaiser  und  die  Zukunft  des  deutschen  Volks."    By  G.  Fuchs,  pp. 
70-71. 

48 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

had  joined  him,  and  he  had  to  find  homestead  lands  for 
them.  Within  a  few  years  the  entire  population  of  Gaul 
would  be  expatriated,  and  the  Germans  would  all  cross 
the  Rhine;  for  there  was  no  comparison  between  the  land 
of  the  Germans  and  that  of  the  Sequanians,  or  between 
the  standard  of  living  among  the  former  and  that  of  the 
latter." 

Other  and  much  more  odious  characteristics  than  those 
of  covetousness  of  their  neighbors'  lands  seem  to  unite 
the  Germans  of  that  remote  day  with  those  of  to-day. 

"Ariovistus  had  wrapped  himself  in  so  much  haughti- 
ness," says  Caesar,  "that  he  had  become  unbearable. 
These  wild  barbarians  had  become  enamored  of  the  lands 
and  refinements  and  abundance  of  the  Gauls,  and  more 
were  brought  over  until  about  one  hundred  and  twenty 
thousand  of  them  were  in  Gaul."  Caesar  attacked,  put 
them  to  flight,  and  drove  them  back  beyond  the  Rhine. 

The  people  were  thus  Gallo-Romans,  and  not  Teuton. 
The  hegemony  which  the  German  kings  obtained  over  a 
great  part  of  Europe  was  obtained  by  them  as  Roman 
emperors  and  not  as  monarchs  of  Germany.  These  two 
titles  should  not  be  confused.  Lorraine  formed  part  of 
the  Holy  Roman  Empire,  but  not  of  Germany.  But 
leaving  out  altogether  the  period  of  the  Middle  Ages,  and 
coming  down  to  more  modern  times,  we  find  that  when 
Prussia  seized  Alsace-Lorraine  in  1871  these  two  prov- 
inces had  been  French  possessions  since  1648;  that  is  to 

49 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

say,  for  a  period  of  233  years.  But  apart  from  any  con- 
sideration of  priority  of  the  length  of  time  of  possession, 
there  is  a  very  important  question  involved.  The 
Rhine  now  and  always  has  marked  the  natural  division 
between  Germany  and  France,  and  not  until  the  invader 
has  been  driven  back  across  this  permanent  division  will 
this  cause  be  abandoned.  Then  there  is  the  even 
stronger  consideration — the  moral  right  which  the  French 
have  to  Alsace-Lorraine.  By  their  civilization,  which 
they  inherit  from  their  beloved  France — by  their  ardent 
affection — by  their  never-dying  hope  to  belong  once  more 
to  France,  these  patriotic  people  proclaim  to  the  world 
that  they  are  not  Germans,  and  that  the  yoke  imposed 
upon  them  is  insufferable. 

The  patriot  Jonas  Lippman  relates  how  in  afflicted 
Alsace  the  Teuton  conquerors  have  repeatedly  stopped 
the  performance  of  French  musical  comedies  and  even  ex- 
pelled French  actors  from  the  province,  threatening  them 
with  imprisonment  should  they  dare  to  return  without 
written  permission. 

"It  has  been,"  he  says,  "my  bad  fortune  to  see  at 
Strassburg  a  performance  of  *La  Fille  du  Regiment' 
stopped  by  the  police.  The  German  excuse  was  that 
when  the  'Daughter  of  the  Regiment*  displays  the 
French  flag  this  constitutes  a  seditious  manifestation! 
At  another  time  an  advertised  performance  of  Taust' 
was  prohibited  because  of  the  well  known  chorus  *Gloire 

50 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

Immortelle  de  nos  aieux,'  'which/  so  read  the  report  of 
the  police  authorities,  'was  an  attempt  to  recall  to  an 
Alsatian  audience  the  glory  of  their  French  ancestors.'  " 

Another  instance  of  persecution  was  the  expulsion 
from  Alsace  .of  the  great  French  comedian  the  elder  Co- 
quelin,  who  came  to  play  in  Moliere's  "Precieuses  Ridi- 
cules." No  official  reason  was  given  for  that  expulsion. 
He  was  given  two  hours  to  leave  Strassburg.  Coquelin 
was  an  intimate  friend  of  the  great  Gambetta,  and  that 
was  enough  I 

''On  the  thirtieth  day  of  September,  1870,"  continues 
M.  Lippman,  "we  inhabitants  of  Strassburg  heard  for  the 
last  time  the  French  'Clairon,'  and  for  the  first  time  the 
Prussian  trumpet.  Napoleon  III  had  declared  war  on 
Prussia  on  the  15th  of  July;  four  weeks  after  that  the 
enemy  surrounded  Strassburg  and  closed  it  to  the  world. 
On  the  13th  of  August  the  first  shell  was  fired  on  the  city, 
at  1  o'clock,  and  from  that  time  on  till  the  28th  of  Sep- 
tember a  continuous  bombardment  was  kept  up.  The 
word  continuous  is  here  used  in  its  most  exact  meaning. 
Not  once  did  the  Prussian  batteries  relent  in  their  deadly 
work.  The  inhabitants  took  refuge  in  their  cellars,  the 
dampness  of  which  increased  the  already  high  mortality. 
We  lived  there  in  disagreeable  promiscuity,  all  the  ten- 
ants of  the  house  forming  a  congregation,  as  it  were,  of 
suffering  humanity.  Men,  women,  and  children,  old 
and  young,  patricians  and  plebeians.  Catholics  and  Jews, 

51 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Protestants  and  infidels,  a  vivid  illustration  showing  that 
misery  loves  company.  And  what  a  weird  company! 
A  University  professor  tete-a-tete  with  a  plumber;  a  silk 
merchant  having  as  vis-a-vis  a  mail  carrier;  a  piano  manu- 
facturer fraternizing  with  an  undertaker— and  so  on. 
The  women  fared  no  better.  Separated  from  the  men  by 
a  rude  sort  of  curtain,  if  I  may  so  call  it,  they  had 
troubles  of  their  own  in  taking  care  of  the  children. 
There  were  enough  of  them  to  form  a  kindergarten.  In 
ordinary  times  the  noise  of  so  many  youngsters  would 
have  been  unbearable,  but  at  this  time  no  one  paid  any 
attention  to  it.  The  fearful  crashing  and  exploding  of 
shells  over  our  roofs,  followed  by  a  rain  of  debris  which 
made  the  streets  impossible,  rendered  us  at  times  speech- 
less, but  did  not  in  the  least  disturb  the  children.  Occa- 
sionally we  would  hear  the  cries  above,  *Au  feu  I  Au 
feu!'  when  a  nearby  building  caught  fire.  In  normal 
times  when  one  heard  that  cry  he  would  summon  the 
nearest  post  of  firemen,  who  with  their  old  fashioned 
equipment — a  few  yards  of  hose  and  a  hand  pump — 
would  trot  leisurely  to  the  burning  building  followed  by 
a  crowd  yelling,  'Au  feu!  Au  feu!'  But  during  such 
a  bombardment  the  cry  found  no  echo — no  one  ventured 
to  cross  the  street,  as  it  meant  sure  death.  Besides,  the 
men  who  composed  the  Fire  Department  were  on  duty  on 
the  ramparts,  and  their  places  had  been  taken  by  amateur 
volunteers  who  were  unwilling  to  risk  their  lives  without 

52 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

benefit  to  their  fellow  citizens,  for  the  Teutons  in- 
variably concentrated  the  hre  of  their  batteries  upon  that 
particular  spot,  so  as  to  prevent  any  help. 

"The  office  of  public  announcer  or  town  crier  during 
these  days  was  not  a  sinecure.  In  the  towns  of  Alsace- 
Lorraine  the  crier  {crieur  publique)  appears  at  certain 
hours  of  the  day  to  read  at  each  street  corner  announce- 
ments which  the  authorities  wish  to  impart  officially  to 
the  citizens.  The  crier  beats  loudly  upon  a  drum  for  a 
few  moments  to  collect  a  crowd,  to  whom  he  then  reads 
his  document  in  a  loud  sing-song  voice.  During  the 
bombardment  of  1870  there  was  considerable  danger  in 
the  performance  of  that  duty.  For  us  residents  of  the 
cellars  the  beating  of  the  official  drum  (he  says)  created 
a  diversion.  Our  curiosity  was  quickly  aroused.  We 
crawled  out  of  our  caverns,  walked  up  to  the  front  door, 
but  did  not  dare  to  venture  further.  The  announce- 
ment consisted  usually  of  a  communication  from  the 
Mayor,  or  from  the  Military  Governor  of  Strassburg,  in- 
forming the  inhabitants  'that  they  would  soon  be  re- 
lieved, that  a  French  army  was  battering  its  way  to 
succor  them,  and  recommending  them  to  keep  up  cour- 
age.' Some  of  us  on  hearing  the  communication  felt 
encouraged,  others  shook  their  heads;  but  no  one  dared 
to  hint  at  surrender.  We  returned  to  our  damp  holes, 
optimists  and  pessimists,  awaiting  events. 

"On  the  8th  day  of  September — Thursday — the  pub- 

53 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

lie  crier  pounded  more  heavily  than  usual  upon  his  drum. 
We  took  up  our  vantage  points  and  were  startled  when, 
in  a  deep  trembling  voice,  the  old  man  (did  I  tell  you 
that  he  was  an  old  man?)  read  as  follows : 

"  'Dear  fellow  citizens :  The  French  Army,  after  a 
brilliant  battle  lasting  two  days,  outnumbered  five  to 
one,  has  suffered  defeat  at  Sedan.  Napoleon  III  has 
surrendered  his  sword  to  the  King  of  Prussia  before  his 
troops.  The  Emperor  is  a  prisoner  of  war.  A  Republic 
has  been  proclaimed  at  Paris.  The  Empress  has  fled  to 
England.  A  Provisional  Government  has  been  formed 
to  prosecute  the  war.  People  of  Strassburg,  the  Impe- 
rial regime  has  ceased,  but  France  remains.  Vive  la 
France!'" 

"  *Yes,  Vive  la  France!'  shouted  the  University  Pro- 
fessor— 'and  also  Vive  la  Republique!'  'So  then,' 
commented  the  cave  dwellers,  'that  is  what  Napoleon 
III  has  done  for  us!  Unprepared,  unequipped,  he  de- 
clared war  upon  Prussia,  and  to-day  we  are  at  the  mercy 
of  a  cruel  enemy !  The  Imperial  Regime  left  no  regrets 
in  Republican  Alsace.  .  .  .'  Paris  and  Strassburg 
were  compelled  to  surrender  by  starvation. 

"In  1870  we  lacked  milk  for  our  babies.  Leading  citi- 
zens signed  a  petition  begging  General  Von  Werder,  the 
Commander  of  the  invading  Prussian  forces,  to  'please 
let  us  have  milk  for  our  wounded,  for  our  aged,  for  our 
babies.'     He  answered,  'Ergibt  euch  wenn  Ihr  milch 

54 


••     •  •/  •  •     • 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

wollt/  (Surrender  if  you  want  milk.)  In  those  days 
substitutes  for  milk  were  not  known,  so  that  hundreds 
of  our  babies  died  of  starvation.  No  Alsatian  has  for- 
gotten it. 

"The  situation  became  more  acute,"  (continues  M. 
Lippman) ;  ^'besides  the  lack  of  food,  the  bombardment 
became  unbearable.  Prussian  batteries  did  not  confine 
their  shots  to  the  ramparts  or  the  fortifications.  Noth- 
ing was  sacred  to  them.  Entire  streets  of  Strassburg — 
residential  sections — were  burned;  public  buildings, 
churches,  monuments  became  the  prey  of  Prussian  van- 
dalism. The  Theatre,  the  Museum,  the  Prefecture,  the 
Protestant  Church  called  the  Temple  Neuf  with  its  great 
Library  containing  treasures  of  Latin  MSS.,  the  roof  of 
the  world  famous  Cathedral — all  these  monuments  be- 
came smoking,  smouldering  ruins  under  Prussian  shells. 
We  were  wondering  what  the  end  would  be  when,  on  Sep- 
tember 28th,  the  cannon  stopped.  It  was  five  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon.  The  silence,  strange  as  it  may  seem, 
became  uncomfortable.  We  ventured  out  on  the  street, 
walked  over  the  debris,  tobogganing  would  better  ex- 
press it,  and  met  a  little  group  of  people  craning  their 
necks  up  at  the  Cathedral  tower.  We  saw  that  the  Tri- 
color had  been  hauled  down.  In  its  place  a  white  cloth 
was  hanging.  I  was  too  young  at  the  time  to  realize 
what  it  all  meant.  My  father,  who  had  me  by  the  hand, 
was  shaking  like  a  leaf.     I  asked  him  the  cause  of  the 

55 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

excitement  and  he  replied :  'You  see  "ce  chiffon  blanc" 
(that  white  rag)  ?  It  is  the  flag  of  dishonor — of  shame 
— of  humiliation!  It  means  that  to-morrow  the  Prus- 
sians will  be  our  masters/  And  to-morrow  camel 
Whoever  has  not  seen  a  city  surrendered  to  the  enemy 
— and  what  an  enemy  I — cannot  grasp  what  it  means. 
No  Zola,  no  De  Maupassant — no  Daudet  can  adequately 
describe  the  thousand  and  one  emotions  that  electrify  one 
as  one  sees  his  beloved  ones  lined  up  in  a  public  square 
prepared  to  go  into  captivity,  while  at  the  same  time  he 
hears  in  the  distance  the  strains  of  military  bands  pre- 
ceding the  victorious  troops  entering  the  beloved  town. 
The  vandals  robbed  us  of  our  Strassburg  by  sheer  brutal 
force.  No  Alsatian  has  forgiven,  or  ever  will  forgive, 
that  Prussian  Crime  I" 

.  .  .  Written  all  over  the  plains,  hills,  and  valleys  of 
Alsace-Lorraine  in  ancient  ruins,  prehistoric  monuments 
and  stone  piles,  is  the  epic  of  the  land  already  old  when 
Caesar  came.  The  remains  of  Druid  temples  still  stand 
even  to-day  beside  the  crumbling  stones  marking  the  site 
of  walls  built  by  the  Romans.  On  Mount  Ste.  Odile  is 
the  beginning  of  a  colossal  bulk  of  uncemented  blocks  of 
great  stones  stretching  across  leagues  of  hill  and  valley. 
The  ancient  annals  are  scanty  and  often  incoherent,  but 
enough  can  be  gathered  to  prove  that  the  Germans  grad- 
ually occupied  the  territory  by  what  is  called  "peaceful 

56 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

penetration,"  which  later  became  domination  and  Teu- 
tonified  "Alsace"  into  "Ellsass."  Then  followed  the 
towns  of  Metz,  Altkirch,  and  Strassburg,  which  the  Ger- 
mans point  to  as  proof  that  the  Teuton  was  the  dominant 
force  in  both  Alsace  and  Lorraine.  But  the  governing 
power  was  settled  very  definitely  at,  and  by,  the  treaty 
of  Verdun,  a.  d.  843  and  attested  manually  by  the  Sons 
of  Charlemagne.  Of  the  three  sons  signatory  to  this 
document,  Lothaire  received  and  became  proprietor  of 
Alsace,  Lorraine,  Burgundy,  Provence,  and  some  terri- 
tory in  Italy.  This  became  the  Kingdom  of  Lothaire 
,(Lotharii  regnum)  Lorraine  in  French,  Lothringen  in 
German. 

Upon  the  death  of  Lothaire,  Charles  the  Bold  took 
Alsace,  and  Lorraine  was  seized  by  Louis  the  German, 
as  set  forth  in  the  curious  documents  ratifying  these 
seizures  and  written  in  both  French  and  German.  Un- 
der an  agreement  twenty-seven  years  later  by  the 
brothers,  Alsace  was  ceded  by  Charles  the  Bold  to  Louis 
the  German,  and  thus  the  Vosges  became  the  boundary 
between  Germany  and  France. 

In  the  centuries  that  passed,  Alsace,  so  fair  and  fertile, 
and  Lorraine,  so  rich  in  its  mines,  grew  rapidly  in  re- 
nown, attracting  workmen  from  other  less  favored  lo- 
calities, so  that  soon  towns  and  villages  sprang  up  as  if 
by  magic.     These  led  to  the  foundation  of  the  great  f eu- 

57 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

dal  systems,  and  jealously  guarded  communities  over- 
lorded by  Bishops,  Prefects,  and  both  Ehikes  and  Arch- 
dukes. 

These  built  their  castles  on  the  shaggy  crests  of  the 
Vosges,  and  the  ruins  are  still  pointed  out  to  the  tourist. 

It  is  said  that  the  name  Hapsburg  was  derived  from 
one  of  these  strongholds.  The  story  is  that  the  brother 
of  the  Bishop  of  Strassburg,  out  Hunting  one  day  with 
his  hawk  or  falcon,  followed  it  to  a  part  of  the  country 
which  seemed  to  him  so  beautiful  that  he  built  a  castle 
there  and  named  it  for  his  falcon — "habicht" — Habichts- 
burg.  This,  in  time,  became  Hapsburg.  This  house 
ruled  Alsace  until  1679,  when  all  its  rights  and  titles  in 
the  province  were  transferred  to  Louis  XIV  of  France. 

Wars,  both  great  and  small,  swept  over  the  provinces, 
and  often  the  peasants,  starving  anH  desperate,  rose 
against  their  lords.  All  over  this  fair  land  the  ruins  of 
the  great  medieval  castles  are  surrounded  by  the  un- 
marked graves  of  millions  of  unfortunate  peasants  whose 
ill-paid  labor  erected  these  huge  piles  of  masonry  over 
which  tourists  now  marvel. 

Even  in  the  middle  ages  Alsace-Lorraine  suffered 
from  and  was  torn  by  complications  which  arose  among 
the  rulers.  Besides  the  numberless  seigneuries,  certain 
of  the  towns  claimed  the  right  of  self  administration,  and 
formed  themselves  into  independent  states,  under  the 
protection   of   an   official   called   "Landvogt,"    a   sort 

58 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

of  Grand  Bailiff  appointed  by  the  King  of  Germany. 

Ten  of  these  towns  in  the  year  1353  grouped  them- 
selves into  a  league  or  confederation  for  mutual  defense, 
and  styled  themselves  the  Decapole  (from  two  Greek 
words  signifying  ten  towns).  Running  from  north  to 
south  these  were:  Landau,  Wissembourg,  Haguenau, 
Rosheim,  Obernai,  Schlestadt,  Kaysersberg,  Colmar, 
Tiirckheim,  and  Munster. 

The  town  of  Landau,  reunited  to  France  in  1648  in 
the  "Palatinat,"  was  ceded  to  Bavaria  after  the  "cent 
jours,"  by  the  second  treaty  of  Paris,  in  1815. 

Wissembourg,  situated  on  the  river  Lauter,  freed  her- 
self, after  a  long  and  weary  struggle,  from  the  domina- 
tion of  the  Abbey,  and  gladly  joined  the  league. 

Haguenau,  near  the  great  forest,  at  the  end  of  the  fif- 
teenth century  was  one  of  the  most  important  of  the 
cities  of  the  Province  of  Alsace-Lorraine.  It  had  a  great 
chateau  on  an  island  in  the  river  Moder,  in  which  dwelt 
Frederic  Barberousse  with  his  knights,  and  it  was  famous 
for  its  great  and  beautiful  Church  of  Saint  Georges,  as 
well  as  for  its  celebrated  master  printers,  who  produced 
works  which  are  still  unrivaled. 

Rosheim,  which  possessed  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
Roman  churches  throughout  the  country,  constructed  in 
the  eleventh  century,  was  renowned  for  the  character  and 
integrity  of  its  inhabitants. 

Obernai  (Oberehnheim)  boasted  of  the  beauty  of  its 

59 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

mansions  situated  on  the  river  Ehn,  most  of  which  dated 
from  the  fifteenth  century. 

Schlestadt  was  famed  for  its  colleges  and  its  learned 
men.  It  boasted  of  more  than  eleven  hundred  students 
in  the  sixteenth  century,  under  such  masters  as  Dringen- 
berg,  Beatus  Rhenanus,  and  Jacob  Wimpferling.  The 
great  library  of  Schlestadt  contained  more  precious  MSS. 
than  any  other,  so  it  is  said. 

Kaysersberg,  famed  for  its  great  chateau,  where  Gei- 
ler,  the  celebrated  preacher  at  the  Cathedral  of  Strass- 
burg,  passed  the  days  of  his  childhood. 

Colmar,  the  painters'  town,  renowned  for  the  number 
of  celebrated  artists  born  within  its  walls. 

Tiirckheim,  on  the  borders  of  the  beautiful  river  Fecht, 
and  renowned  the  land  over  for  its  noble  wine,  the  town 
nestling  behind  great  stone  walls  toppedby  quaint  towers. 

And  lastly :  Munster,  at  the  end  of  the  valley  at  the 
foot  of  the  Schlucht. 

Each  of  these  towns  had  and  enjoyed  its  own  consti- 
tution, and  named  the  magistrates  charged  with  their 
government,  some  elected  for  life,  and  others  for  cer- 
tain periods  only.  These  magistrates  were  chosen  from 
among  both  the  nobles  and  the  "bourgeoisie"  or  citizens' 
class.  The  population  was  formed  of  a  number  of 
"tribes" ;  those  called  "Ziinf  te,"  which  were  very  numer- 
ous, and  were  divided  into  clans,  and  the  "Stube" 
(poele).     Each    of    these    had    its    own    place.     The 

60 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

"Stubes"  were  celebrated  for  the  family  fetes,  such  as 
marriages,  christenings,  etc.  These  two  tribes  elected 
their  own  head  men,  and  a  sort  of  major  domo  whom  they 
called  "Obristzunftmeister,"  and  who  was  consulted  in 
all  important  matters  relating  to  the  wellbeing  of  the 
tribes. 

These  magistrates  were  charged  with  the  overseeing  of 
the  fortifications,  the  upkeep  of  arms  and  ordnance;  the 
care  of  the  streets,  and  the  order  and  peace  of  the  town. 
They  levied  the  town  taxes  and  collected  them,  and 
upon  occasion  acted  as  petty  judges.  The  "bourgeoisie" 
formed  the  committees  which  governed  the  hospitals,  the 
orphan  asylums,  and  the  schools.  Thus  they  prospered 
and  flourished  in  the  enjoyment  of  liberty. 

In  the  sixteenth  century  certain  of  the  towns,  for  in- 
stance, Munster,  Landau  and  Wissembourg,  were  con- 
verted to  Protestantism,  but  Colmar  was  favorable  to 
both  Catholic  and  Protestant,  giving  them  equal  rights. 
Finally,  after  some  dissension  in  the  first  named  towns, 
they  united  in  the  faith  of  the  ancient  church,  and  thus 
have  remained. 

The  Alsatian  towns  for  many  years  managed  to  keep 
free  from  entanglements,  while  busied  with  the  unsettled 
conditions  due  to  the  Thirty  Years'  religious  war  and  the 
occupation  by  Sweden.  The  protection  of  France  was 
gladly  welcomed,  and  the  people  became  so  whole- 
heartedly French  that  upon  the  dawn  of  the  Revolution 

61 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

they  entered  into  it  body  and  soul,  furnishing  both  states- 
men and  soldiers.  They  remained,  however,  cold  to  the 
advances  of  Napoleon  III,  whose  ambitions  they  dis- 
trusted. ,  ,  .  Then  came  the  defeats  of  Wissembourg 
and  Woerth;  the  bombardment  of  Strassburg;  the  Prus- 
sian occupation;  the  eloquent  declarations  of  the  deputies 
of  Alsace-Lorraine  in  the  assembly  at  Bordeaux — their 
protestation  after  the  vote  for  the  preliminaries  of  peace 
— the  treaty  of  Frankfort,  signed  on  May  lOth,  1871, 
when  the  larger  part  of  Alsace  and  a  portion  of  Lorraine 
were  separated  from  the  Mother  Country  and  designated 
by  the  hated  German  name  of  "Elsass-Lothringen," 
which  Frenchmen  cannot  and  will  not  use.  Belfort  and 
Delle  remained  to  France. 

Alsace-Lorraine  then,  by  what  the  French  term  "un 
bizarre  statu t,"  became  by  the  law  of  June  9,  1871,  the 
collective  property  of  the  German  States  Confederation, 
a  part  of  the  Empire  (  Reichsland)  and  under  the  domi- 
nation and  government  of  the  princes  of  Ruess  and 
Schwarzburg.  It  was  proclaimed  by  these  princes  that 
Alsace-Lorraine,  thus  violated,  was  simply  German  ter- 
ritory reclaimed,  that  in  thought  and  sentiment  the  people 
were  Germans,  and  that  only  the  interests  of  the  people 
were  sought  and  considered  by  the  German  Empire.  In 
refutation  of  this  specious  argument  it  is  necessary  to 
chronicle  here  some  of  the  persecutions  inflicted  upon 
these  helpless  people,  the  interdiction  of  the  French  lan- 

62 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

guage  in  the  schools;  the  fines  and  punishment  for  dis- 
playing or  even  having  in  one's  possession  the  French 
colors;  the  odious  measures  regarding  passports  at  the 
French  frontier;  the  surveillance  of  the  police,  furnished 
with  power  of  domiciliary  visits  at  any  and  all  hours  of 
the  day  or  night;  the  insolence  of  the  Germans  sent  into 
the  country  as  settlers ;  the  outrage  of  (Zabern)  Saverne 
by  the  military.  Indeed,  fresh  evidence  of  the  German 
campaign  of  terrorization  of  the  Province  comes  to  hand 
every  day.  Since  the  beginning  of  hostilities  (August, 
1914,)  German  courts  martial,  sitting  in  the  annexed 
provinces,  have  inflicted  sentences  totaling  five  thousand 
years'  imprisonment  on  citizens  of  Alsace  and  Lorraine, 
whose  sole  offence  has  been  the  expression  of  opinions 
favorable  to  France.  In  this  all  classes  and  all  districts 
have  suffered. 

According  to  carefully  gathered  statistics,  from  the  day 
Alsace-Lorraine  was  annexed  by  Germany  in  1871  until 
the  outbreak  of  the  World  War,  no  fewer  than  five  hun- 
dred thousand  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  provinces,  out  of 
a  population  of  i,6oo,ooo,  have  migrated  to  France.  Of 
these  nearly  fifty  thousand  have  joined  the  French  army, 
and  are  fighting  under  the  Tri-color.  So  the  wall  which 
the  Teutons  erected  on  the  frontier  in  1871  is  a  monu- 
ment to  the  fidelity  of  the  Alsatians.  In  words  of 
Jaures,  "They  (the  Teutons)  have  erected  a  monument 
in  the  depths  of  the  forest,  among  the  great  trees  whose 

63 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

roots  are  deep  in  French  soil,  and  whose  branches  reach 
to  the  skies.  The  forest  is  typical  of  our  soul.  The 
monument  shall  never  fall  until  the  lost  provinces  of 
Alsace-Lorraine  are  re-united  to  our  beloved  France,  and 
the  Tri-color  waves  in  Strassburg  on  the  Rhine." 

The  Alsatian  dialect  is  very  peculiar  and  most  difficult 
for  a  foreigner  to  learn.  This  song  ^  will  give  a  good 
idea  of  its  characteristics. 

I 

It 

Das  Elsass  unser  Landel 
Das  isch  meineidig  scheen ; 
Mer  hewa's  fescht  am  Bandel, 
Un  lehn's,  bigott,  ii^it  gehn 

luhe! 
Mer  lehn's,  bigott,  J^it  gehn. 

II 

Es  sott's  nur  einer  wage 
Un  sott'es  grifan  an, 
Mer  halta  fescht  zusamme 
Un  schlaga  mann  fiir  man 

luhe! 
Un  schlaga  mann  fiir  mann. 

Ill 

Im  Elsass  isch  giiat  lawa, 
Das  wissen  alle  Leiit, 
Das  giebt  es  Feld  und  Rewa, 
Was  eim  das  Herz  erfreut 

luhe! 
Was  eim  das  Herz  erfreut. 


From  "Chansons  Populaires  de  I'Alsace."    Jean  Maisonneuve,  Edit. 

64 


THE  GERMAN  YOKE 

IV 

Steigt  man  auf  hohe  Berge 
Schaut  ab  in's  tiefe  Thai, 
Da  seeht  man  Gottes  Werke 
Un  Lander  iwerall 

luhe! 
Un  Lander  iweralL 

V 
Drum  liawa  mi'r  under  Landel 
Mir  alle  Elsasser  Seehn, 
Und  halta's  fescht  am  Bandcl 
Un  lehn's,  bigott,  nit  gehn, 

I  uhel 
Un  lehn's,  bigott,  nit  gehn. 


65 


Jftm%  8  ®oe  Wm 


^|MHE  charming  little  village  of  Ferrette  is  reached 
CU  from  Altkirch  by  a  toy  train  of  two  or  three  min- 
^■^  iature  cars  drawn  by  an  absurd  squatty  engine, 
all  gaily  picked  out  in  red  and  green  paint.  In  German 
it  is  spelled  Piirt,  and  pronounced  as  comically  by  the 
quaintly  garbed,  red  faced,  and  shy  conductor,  who  oblig- 
ingly gave  me  a  card  emblazoned  with  the  name  of  the 
inn,  the  "Stadt  New  York,"  which  he  recommended  with 
an  emphatic  nod  of  his  close  cropped  head. 

Pfirt  or  Ferrette  is  a  typical  village  of  the  Sundgau  re- 
gion, so  renowned  for  its  picturesqueness  and  its  pottery. 
The  toy  train  puffed  its  way  along  the  route  in  so  leis- 
urely a  manner  that  one  had  ample  opportunity  to  see  in 
detail  the  rich  rolling  country  and  mark  its  great  differ- 
ence to  the  landscape  of  higher  Alsace. 

The  large  and  open  valley,  with  its  prairie  spaces, 
presents  a  great  contrast  to  the  Valleys  of  the  Vosges, 
whose  slopes  are  so  masked  by  heavy  dark  forests.  Here 
the  villages  are  more  isolated — farther  apart,  and  the 
chalets  remind  one  of  those  in  Switzerland.  Proceeding 
so  slowly  towards  the  foothills,  the  slow  little  train 
covers  the  fifteen  miles  to  Pfirt  or  Ferrette  all  too  soon. 

69 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

A  sort  of  outskirt  to  the  village,  consisting  of  a  few 
chalets,  first  appears,  called  by  the  inhabitants  (so  ex- 
plains the  conductor)  the  "faubourg."  Here  is  a  heavy 
mass  of  trees,  in  which  are  vast  flocks  of  rooks.  The  vil- 
lage itself  is  hidden  from  view,  but  one  can  see  above,  on 
a  steep  wooded  cliff,  the  ruin  of  an  ancient  chateau — the 
castle  of  Piirt,  formerly  the  seat  and  stronghold  of  the 
Counts  of  Piirt,  who  in  olden  days  dominated  the  whole 
Jura  mountains.  Nothing  could  be  more  enchanting 
than  the  view  of  this  old  ruin  on  the  summit  of  the  em- 
bowered cliff,  shining  in  the  golden  glow  of  an  August 
evening. 

Ferrette  proved  to  be  a  worthy  setting  for  the  old 
castle,  and  though  it  had  few  more  than  five  hundred  in- 
habitants, all  told,  they  all  seemed  to  have  congregated 
in  the  small,  clean  square  that  evening.  The  reason  for 
the  gathering  proved  to  be  the  arrival  of  a  moving  pic- 
ture show,  then  a  great  novelty,  and  men  were  busily 
erecting  a  large  tent  in  the  open  space.  Here  was  a 
charming  old  church,  erected  upon  a  quaint,  grassy  walled 
and  buttressed  eminence  approached  by  a  flight  of  stone 
steps  which  wound  delightfully  about  the  old  mossy 
walls  of  steep  roofed  and  galleried  houses.  The  church 
had  a  tower  surmounted  by  a  singular  sort  of  pent  roof, 
for  all  the  world  like  unto  the  cocked  hat  worn  by  the  old 
Sergeant  de  Ville,  who  was  then  on  guard,  superintend- 
ing the  erection  of  the  moving  picture  tent,  with  a 

70 


FERRETTE,  A  TOY  VILLAGE 

dubious  and  watchful  eye  upon  the  boys  who  excitedly 
studied  the  operation. 

This  sort  of  church  roof  is  remarkable  in  this  region  of 
bulbous  and  pyramidal  belfries,  and  reminds  one  of  those 
commonly  seen  in  Normandy.  The  village  street  of 
Ferrette,  delightfully  named  the  "Boulevarde,"  is  along 
the  terrace,  which  overlooks  the  valley  and  the  quaint 
pent  roofs  of  the  old  houses  descending  the  hillside  in 
steps.  A  polite  villager  took  pains  to  point  out  to  us  the 
Hotel  de  Ville,  which  he  gravely  informed  us  was  "of  the 
fifteenth-sixteenth  century,  but  somewhat  modern  like- 
wise, because  it  was  newly  furnished  this  very  year!'* 
He  pointed  out  the  roadway  at  one  side  by  which  we 
could  mount  to  the  chateau  above  the  village,  and  volun- 
teered the  information  that  we  would  first  pass  through 
the  seignorial  donjon  of  the  Counts  of  Ferrette;  that 
Louis  XIV  in  1659  gave  the  Seigneurie  to  Mazarin, 
whose  landmarks,  bearing  the  arms  of  the  Cardinal,  are 
still  to  be  found  in  the  neighboring  forests.  After 
Mazarin,  he  said,  the  Valentinois  inherited  the  domain, 
then  the  Grimaldis,  and  that  at  present  the  Prince  of 
Monaco  enjoys,  among  other  titles,  that  of  a  Count  of 
Ferrette.  Later  we  discovered  that  this  erudite  villager 
was  none  other  than  Monsieur  the  Mayor  himself. 
From  the  terrace  of  the  chateau  the  view  of  the  country 
round  about  forms  one  of  the  most  unique  and  moving 
spectacles  in  all  Alsace.     The  gap  of  the  Rhine  valley 

71 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

between  the  Vosges  and  the  Black  Forest  lay  bathed  in 
tender,  lambent,  misty  light,  and  nearer  were  the  golden 
green  undulating  fields  of  the  Alsatian  Jura.  The 
whole  region  is  peopled  and  filled  with  knights  and  war- 
riors, their  deeds  of  prowess  and  valor;  their  loves  and 
their  ladies,  as  well  as  tales  of  giants  and  dwarfs,  and 
dragons  ferocious. 

Monsieur  the  Mayor,  we  afterward  discovered,  en- 
joyed a  local  reputation  as  historian  of  the  region  of  the 
Sundgau,  and  although  a  German  official  appointed  by 
Berlin,  was  secretly  a  pronounced  and  loyal  Alsatian  in 
feeling.  To  him  I  owe  a  great  many  of  the  facts  and 
details  set  down  in  this  random  description  of  both 
Ferrette  and  Altkirch.^ 

In  his  quaint  home  he  had  a  most  unique  collection  of 
china  and  ancient  carved  furniture,  in  which  he  took  an 
almost  childish  delight,  and  this  was  not  the  least  of  his 
attractions.  He  was  really  a  mine  of  information  con- 
cerning the  country  and  the  people.  Telling  the  story 
of  Altkirch  in  floriated  language,  for  which  he  showed 
great  fondness,  he  said  that  the  name  of  this  most  pic- 
turesque town  clinging  to  the  slope  of  the  sun-bathed  hill 
on  the  Swiss  frontier  came  from  the  old  church  erected  in 
the  year  1050  by  Hugues  the  Venerable  Abbe  of  Cluny, 
after  a  visit  which  he  paid  to  Louis  the  Count  of  Mont- 

*  This  kindly  gentleman  died  the  year  following  my  visit  to  Ferrette. 
(Author.) 

72 


FERRETTE,  A  TOY  VILLAGE 

beliard,  and  his  Lady  Sophie  de  Bar,  the  ancestors  of  the 
Counts  of  Ferrette,  who  so  long  dominated  upper  Alsace. 

It  seems  that  the  good  Abbe,  ever  a  man  of  moods,  as 
well  as  extreme  holiness,  desired  one  day  to  have  his  din- 
ner served  to  him  out  of  doors  beneath  the  great  trees, 
but  soon  it  came  on  to  rain,  seeing  which  the  Abbe  got 
down  upon  his  knees  before  the  statue  of  the  Saint  and 
prayed  him  loudly  and  eloquently  for  fair  weather  and 
bright  sunlight,  "when  behold:  The  sun  shone  forth, 
the  clouds  vanished,  and  all  nature  smiled  I" 

The  son  of  Louis  Thierry  sojourning  here  between 
Ferrette  and  Altkirch  was  miraculously  cured  of  "a  grave 
malady,"  and  in  gratitude  he  erected  a  monastery  in  the 
neighborhood,  and  later,  the  Grand  Abbey  of  Cluny, 
which  was  dedicated  to  Saint  Christopher  under  the  name 
of  Saint  Moraud,  in  remembrance  of  a  most  holy  man 
who  came  here  during  the  twelfth  century  and  preached 
the  Holy  Gospel  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  Sundgau,  who 
even  to  the  present  day  venerate  him  as  patron  Saint. 

The  remains  of  the  great  Abbey  on  the  hillside  are  now 
used  as  a  "hospice,"  sheltering  a  few  quaintly  clad 
monks,  who  till  the  well-kept  gardens  and  care  for  the 
walled  orchard  in  the  intervals  of  prayer. 


73 


%mt^ 


mm^ 


aLTKIRCH  passed  from  the  control  of  the  Counts 
of  Ferrette  to  the  house  of  Hapsburg  of  Austria, 
and  in  1659  ^^^  presented  by  France  to  Cardinal 
Mazarin.  Away  back  in  the  dim  days  of  1375  the 
hordes  of  Enguerrand  de  Coucy  occupied  the  town  for 
three  months,  after  which  they  sacked  and  burned  it. 
Captured  by  the  Armagnacs  in  1444,  the  little  town  again 
suffered  by  pillage  and  fire,  and  two  years  later  the  Balois 
encamped  here  with  their  troops.  Two  hundred  years 
later,  the  Swedes  invaded  the  region,  leaving  in  their 
wake  little  but  ragged  walls.  But  both  Ferrette 
and  Altkirch  survived  these  disasters,  and  even  be- 
came rich  and  famed  the  country  round.  Under 
the  French  regime  in  the  twelfth  century,  Altkirch's 
great  annual  Fair,  celebrated  in  the  month  of  July, 
enjoyed  much  renown.  Its  narrow,  tortuous  streets 
were  thronged  with  rich  merchants,  and  its  square, 
surrounded  by  quaint  gabled  houses,  was  covered 
with  well  stocked  booths  containing  rich  stuffs  from 
the  looms  of  Flanders,  while  outside  the  stone  walls 
surrounding  the  town  great  droves  of  sleek  and  blooded 

77 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

cattle  and  fine  Norman  horses  were  offered  for  sale,  at- 
tracting buyers  from  far  and  near.  Thus  a  great  pros- 
perity settled  upon  the  town,  and  its  merchants  and  in- 
habitants waxed  rich  and  proud. 

From  1800,  Altkirch,  down  to  1857,  was  a  "sous  pre- 
fecture" of  the  Upper  Rhine,  but  in  the  latter  year  this 
title  was  removed  and  bestowed  upon  Mulhouse.  Alt- 
kirch was  the  seat  of  an  excellent  college,  and  here  was 
educated  the  painter  Jean  Jacques  Henner,  who  was 
born  at  Bemwiller,  a  neighboring  village. 

The  Henner  family  were  very  poor,  with  many  chil- 
dren, but  they  sent  young  Henner  to  Strassburg  to  study 
art.  Later  he  went  to  Paris,  where  he  became  famous. 
He  never  forgot  his  birthplace,  however,  and  regularly 
visited  his  parents,  whom  he  was  able  to  care  for  in  their 
old  age.  In  his  paintings  he  depicted  often  the  Alsatian 
type  of  face  with  the  picturesque  headdress.  After  he 
died,  in  1905,  his  friends  and  admirers  erected  a  monu- 
ment to  him  in  Bemwiller.  "And  now,"  continued  our 
historian,  "Altkirch  is  famed  for  its  charming  pottery, 
not  perhaps  as  magnificent  as  that  of  Sevres,  but  never- 
theless of  good  quality  and  design,  and  I  hope  that 
M'sieur  and  Madame  will  agree  with  me  as  to  its  qual- 
ity." He  looked  so  beseeching  and  anxious  for  the  com- 
pliment, that  Lady  Anne  hastened  to  agree  with  him  for 
politeness'  sake.  I  remember  a  quaint  figure  of  speech 
of  Miss  Wharton's  describing  a  French  town :     "It  has 

78 


ALTKIRCH 

been  the  fate  of  many  venerable  towns  to  sacrifice  their 
bloom  of  'Vetuste'  to  the  restoring  craze,  which  gives 
them  the  pathetic  appearance  of  cosseted  old  ladies  and 
antediluvian  beaux,  parading  their  makeups/'  But  no 
one  need  pity  Altkirch,  it  is  as  redolent  of  untouched  an- 
tiquity as  one  could  wish,  and  it  was  our  good  luck  to  be 
here  on  a  market  day,  when  the  streets  were  full  of 
bright-eyed  peasant  girls,  and  lively  merchants;  and 
drivers  in  quaint  smocks  and  broad-brimmed  hats,  as  well 
as  some  in  the  quaint  old  tasseled  caps  of  velvet  worn 
rakishly  far  back  on  the  head  by  the  men  from  the  more 
remote  villages.  Climbing  some  of  the  steep  streets,  we 
wondered  what  was  occurring  behind  the  high  walls  of 
those  gabled,  steep-roofed  houses,  to  which  the  tourist  so 
rarely  has  access. 

Little  life  was  visible  at  the  curtained  windows,  save 
occasionally  the  wrinkled  face  of  an  old  velvet-capped 
woman.  The  gray  old  church  seemed  withdrawn  im- 
measurably into  the  dim  past,  sunk  in  the  forgotten 
memories  of  ancient  Gaul,  and  even  the  chanting  circle 
of  children,  dancing  a  kind  of  "ring  around  the  rosy" 
before  the  steps,  were  as  subdued  and  well  mannered  as 
befitted  the  scene. 

In  the  old  church  the  effect  of  this  antiquity  was  en- 
hanced by  what  one  might  call  beneficent  neglect.  Here 
were  all  the  scars  and  hues  of  age,  untouched  by  the  re- 
storer.    The  old  choir,  the  organ  loft  and  rood  screen,  all 

79 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

of  a  lacy  yet  heavy  woodcarving,  have  preserved  well 
their  detail,  acquiring  with  the  centuries  that  precious 
lustre  of  surface  that  one  associates  with  the  patina  of  old 
bronze.  It  was  unfinished,  of  course;  all  great  Gothic 
temples  are  unfinished — always  will  be;  ''Dieu  Mercil" 
— with  something  left  to  the  imagination — and  this  old 
church  quite  satisfied  one's  aesthetic  sense  in  that  respect. 

The  people  of  Altkirch  are  very  French  in  manner. 
All  those  whom  we  encountered,  from  the  people  at  the 
"Blume,"  noted  for  its  comforts,  to  the  white-aproned 
baker  who  was  arranging  a  fragrant  pile  of  cakes  in  his 
open  window,  were  smiling  and  good-humored,  and  the 
little  old  man  in  the  stiff  blue  blouse  at  the  inn,  who  was 
draining  the  lettuce  in  a  wire  cage,  which  he  swung  about 
his  head,  each  pursued  his  activities  with  cheerful  ac- 
ceptance of  the  conditions  attached  to  their  several  occu- 
pations. Each  was  apparently  conscious  of  his  estab- 
lished walk  of  life  and  gloried  in  it. 

We  could  not  but  admire  this  characteristic,  this  really 
admirable  fitting  of  each  member  of  the  community  into 
the  fabric  of  everyday  existence.  It  must  be  the  outcome 
of  their  admirable  sense  of  form,  lubricated  by  the  good 
manners  possessed  by  the  French,  which  doubtless  has 
led  them  by  a  short  cut  to  their  goal. 

It  was  difficult  for  one  to  leave  the  attractions  of  Alt- 
kirch and  the  picturesque  fertile  valley  adorned  by  many 
old  embowered  chateaux  and  farmsteads,  built  when 

80 


ALTKIRCH 

reminiscences  only  lingered  from  those  good  old  times 
when  private  feuds  armed  every  man  against  his  neigh- 
bor, and  made  every  mansion  a  stronghold.  These  as- 
sumed an  intermediate  character  between  fortress  and 
peaceful  habitation.  Their  glazed  windows  were  in 
strange  proximity  to  flanking  towers  and  iron-plated  and 
nail-studded  doors.  But  they  were  most  pleasing  fea- 
tures in  the  landscape,  and  with  their  high  steep  roofs 
garnished  with  two  or  three  rows  of  curious  little  dormer 
windows,  and  iron  pinnacles  of  every  imaginable  design, 
often  most  artistic,  their  character  added  immensely  to 
the  picture,  as  when,  for  instance,  placed  upon  a  project- 
ing bluff  almost  surrounded  by  a  swiftly  running  stream. 
In  exploring  the  valley  one  day,  we  found  the  road 
thronged  with  pilgrims  on  their  way  to  or  from  a  shrine, 
we  did  not  ascertain  which.  The  greater  number  were 
on  foot,  in  scattered  parties,  but  later  on  we  met  with  the 
procession  marching  in  two  files.  The  children  came 
first,  generally  clad  in  white  and  carrying  banners  and 
emblems.  Those  who  followed  seemed  to  march  in  the 
order  of  their  age.  Between  the  files  were  the  priests, 
in  full  regalia.  A  crucifix  was  borne  in  advance  of  the 
whole  train,  and  an  ornate  painted  and  embroidered  ban- 
ner at  the  head  of  each  file.  They  were  either  singing 
hymns  or  reciting  prayers.  We  were  told  that  these  pro- 
cessions at  night  were  most  beautiful  and  impressive,  and 
that  the  most  attractive  sight  of  all  the  poetic  scenes 

81 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

which  the  festival  presented  was  when  the  pilgrims, 
lighted  by  the  glare  of  torches,  embarked  in  large  barges 
and  floated  down  the  river  with  their  banners  and  sacred 
symbols  all  displayed,  making  the  night  resound  with  the 
^weet  voices  of  the  women  and  children  and  the  deep  re- 
sponses of  the  chanting  priests  and  choristers. 

It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  such  ceremonies  and  spec- 
tacles as  this  should  fail  to  arouse  an  anxious  interest  and 
bitter  antipathy  among  the  German  Protestants  of 
Alsace,  and  it  is  perhaps  enough  to  say  here  that  every 
obstacle  and  discouragement  is  put  in  the  way  of  such 
innocent  celebrations  by  the  civic  authorities,  under 
secret  orders  from  Berlin.  But  to  the  casual  observer 
this  is,  of  course,  hidden,  and  on  the  surface  the  village 
life  goes  on  placidly;  suffice  it  for  him  that  this  is  a 
romantic  region  of  mountains  and  fair  valleys,  with  toss- 
ing water  courses  and  thick  forests  abounding  in  rare 
plants;  of  grand  rivers  flowing  through  rocky  chasms  or 
lovely  meadow  lands,  and  gemmed  by  such  marvelous 
old  towns  and  villages  as  transport  those  who  visit  and 
tarry  in  them  into  the  Middle  Ages;  where  the  sunny 
uplands  are  dotted  by  such  a  lavish  wealth  of  ruined  cas- 
tles and  half  forgotten  abbeys  and  the  remains  of  charm- 
ing chateaux,  as  to  be  well  nigh  impossible  to  chronicle 
or  describe.  Rarely  did  we  meet  with  an  English 
^traveller  after  crossing  the  French  frontier,  save  for  two 
elderly  English  ladies  who  were  discovered  economising 

82 


ALTKIRCH 

in  a  delightfully  remote  inn  on  the  flowery  banks  of  the 
111.  Both  were  quite  "midvictorian,"  wearing  lace  head- 
dresses at  dinner,  and  as  coldly  dignified  in  deportment 
as  one  can  well  imagine.  And  it  is  quite  true  that  one 
happened  upon  the  rosy-cheeked  maid  in  the  hallway 
bearing  a  tray  up  to  their  apartment  at  nine  o'clock  in 
the  evening,  upon  which  was  a  steaming  pitcher  of  milk 
and  a  fat  squat  bottle  of  ''Hollands." 

"Yes,  indeed,"  said  the  maid  most  earnestly,  ''these 
great  ladies,  after  the  fashion  of  the  English,  must  have 
each  night  before  retiring  the  gin  and  hot  milk.  It  is 
the  manner  of  the  nobility  in  their  country.  They  are 
great  ladies,  you  understand  *?  It  is  for  them  that  we 
have  the  *ros'  biff,'  and  also,  on  occasion,  the  'plum  pud- 
dling.' The  ladies  are  here  for  the  season,  and  we  love 
them,  too."     Delightful  hospitality! 

It  seemed  strange  that  more  travellers  did  not  resort 
to  these  charming  inns.  Nowhere  else  perhaps  could 
one  live  so  cheaply  and  withal  so  free  from  care,  and  be 
so  hospitably  received  and  entertained. 

Was  it  not  Smollett  who  complained  so  bitterly  be- 
cause at  a  French  inn  a  "diner  apart"  cost  him  three 
francs,  while  the  charge  for  the  "table  d'hote"  was  only 
forty  sous^  It  was  because  the  landlords  discouraged 
such  exclusiveness.  The  table  d'hote  is  an  estab- 
lished institution  and  a  most  excellent  and  entertaining 
one  too.     True,  the  ubiquitous  commercial  traveller  is 

83 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

not  always  the  most  pleasant  of  companions  at  table,  but 
your  experienced  globe  trotter  learns  to  take  what  comes 
and  all  uncomplainingly. 

These  provincial  inns  are,  as  a  rule,  excellently  well 
kept.  The  beds  are  invariably  immaculately  clean,  with 
splendid  linen,  woven  often  in  the  neighborhood.  The 
food  is  excellent  and  well  cooked,  and  the  chamber  into 
which  the  traveller  is  welcomed  has  almost  invariably  the 
heavy  furniture  which  was  once  thought  indispensable  to 
every  well  furnished  salon.  In  the  center  of  the  room 
will  be  the  heavy  marble-topped  table  (gueridon),  with 
its  square  of  embroidery  upon  which  is  a  vase  for  flowers. 
Upon  the  mantel  will  be  a  clock  of  the  empire  under  a 
glass  dome,  showing  some  hero  or  other  in  bronze,  upon 
either  side  of  which  is  a  gilt  vase  of  artificial  flowers,  like- 
wise under  glass.  The  floor  is  waxed  and  polished  to  the 
last  degree,  and  just  before  the  bed  is  a  small  square  of 
carpet,  and  one  will  do  well  to  beware  of  a  misstep,  so 
slippery  is  the  floor.  In  such  an  inn  as  this  one  is  treated 
as  an  honored  guest,  and  on  the  day  of  departure  takes  his 
leave  often  with  a  real  regret. 

Contrast  this  charming  picture  with  that  of  our  own 
country  hotels. 

Of  course  the  faultfinder  abroad  will  find  food  for 
faultfinding.  But  most  things  abroad  are  well  done, 
and  many  things  are  certainly  done  better  than  we  do 
them. 

84 


ALTKIRCH 

Sterne,  in  his  "Sentimental  Journey,"  wrote:  "The 
learned  Smelfungus  travelled  from  Boulogne  to  Paris, 
from  Paris  to  Rome,  and  so  on;  but  he  set  out  with  spleen 
and  jaundice,  and  every  object  he  passed  by  was  dis- 
colored or  distorted.  He  wrote  an  account  of  them;  but 
'twas  nothing  but  the  account  of  his  own  miserable  feel- 
ings.'' 

Let  me  picture  here  the  day  of  our  own  departure  from 
this  charming  spot,  when  the  swinging  door  of  the  old 
yellow-bodied  carriage  closed  upon  us  and  our  impedi- 
menta. The  ambling  fat  mare  waving  her  expressive 
ears  excitedly  because  of  the  children  gathered  to  bid  us 
good-by;  with  Jan  on  the  front  seat  leaning  forward 
persuasively,  holding  the  reins  in  both  his  great  ted 
hands,  and  the  old  cure  waving  his  shovel  hat  and 
shouting  to  the  children:  "Allons!  mes  enfants — 
Heep!" 

A  faint  response  from  the  children :  "HeepT*  Their 
eyes  are  on  the  carriage,  likewise  their  attention,  because 
of  the  generous  handful  of  copper  coins  with  which  Lady 
Anne  is  ready  to  shower  them. 

"Allons !  encore !  plus  fort !     Heep!" 
A  still  smaller  response. 

"Allons !  mes  enfants  I  Comme  un  coup  de  tonnerre, 
hourah!" 

85 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

"Bon  voyage,  Monsieur  et  Madame/'  from  all  the  chil- 
dren, but  the  "Hourah"  was  not  uttered,  although  it  had 
been  so  well  rehearsed  by  all  of  them.  They  surrounded 
the  old  yellow-bodied  carriage  which  was  to  take  us  to 
the  station,  thrusting  little  brown  hands  filled  with  fresh 
flowers  from  the  village  gardens  into  Lady  Anne's  lap. 
Then  followed  the  shower  of  copper  coins  amid  the  shrill 
cries  of  the  scrambling  youngsters. 

"Attention,"  from  the  Cure. 

They  all  stand  up  obediently  and  in  place,  the  girls  on 
one  side,  the  boys  on  the  other,  and  the  Cure  standing  in 
the  middle  with  his  hat  raised.  Down  it  goes,  and  at  the 
signal  they  sing  a  familiar  tune,  but  what  words  are 
these*?     To  our  amazed  ears  came: 

— "Goat  shave  de  gracieuse  Kvecnc, 
Longue  leef  de  glorieuse  Kveene — 
Goat  shave  de  Kveene!" 

It  was  all  in  honor  of  Lady  Anne,  and  her  shining  eyes 
showed  that  she  well  appreciated  it. 

"Now,  then,  my  children,"  said  the  Cure,  "all  atten- 
tion, eyes  front  on  my  hat,  all  ready.  *HeepI  Heep! 
Hourah! — and  Au  revoir."  This  time  the  children  re- 
sponded courageously. 

Jan  snapped  the  whip  over  the  back  of  the  fat  mare, 

86 


ALTKIRCH 

who  jumped  forward.  And  thus  we  passed  into  the 
shadows  beneath  the  great  trees  on  the  winding,  dusty 
road  to  the  station. 


87 


Wif  IF^t  of  tl^  )(ips 


Wsf  IFnttt  of  tif  Piiimi 

(LES  MENETRIERS) 

^|MHERE  is  perhaps  no  Fete  day  in  all  of  Alsace- 
lU  Lorraine  so  well  loved  by  the  people  as  that  cele- 
^■^  brated  yearly  as  'Tfeiffertag/'  One  of  the 
earliest,  if  not  the  very  oldest  feast  days  of  the  Province, 
it  had  its  origin  in  the  little  town  of  Ribeauville;  some 
say,  however,  that  it  was  at  Ville  or  Schlestadt  that  it 
originated,  at  any  rate  during  the  sixteenth  century  it 
had  a  great  vogue  at  Ribeauville  ( locally  called  Rapper- 
schwier) ,  a  small  town  of  about  5,000  inhabitants,  sur- 
rounded by  the  remains  of  high  stone  walls  of  the  four- 
teenth century,  lying  at  the  entrance  of  a  lovely  valley, 
with  a  winding  river,  the  Strengbach,  and  many  fruitful 
vineyards.  This  town  is  said  to  have  been  the  very  head- 
quarters of  The  Guild  Corporations.  For  instance,  be- 
fore the  Revolution  no  one  could  practice  any  trade  or 
do  any  work  whatever  within  the  limits  of  the  town, 
without  having  first  been  admitted  to  membership  in  the 
Guild  governing  his  craft.  Thus  a  painter  or  leather 
worker  must  have  been  regularly  apprenticed  under  a 
known  master  workman;  when,  after  a  period,  he  must 

91 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

produce  a  piece  of  work  which,  accepted  and  approved 
by  his  master,  gave  him  the  right  to  apply  for  admission 
to  the  Guild.  This  was  the  law,  and  was  rigidly  en- 
forced. These  Guilds  included  sometimes  simply  the 
workers  of  a  town;  sometimes  those  of  a  whole  district. 
So  the  musicians  of  Alsace  from  the  Vosges  to  the  Rhine, 
and  from  Bale  to  the  great  Forest  of  Haguenare,  the 
limits  of  the  ancient  Province,  were  united  in  one  great 
and  powerful  corporation,  which  lasted  for  four  cen- 
turies, up  to  the  year  1789.  This  corporation  was  known 
as  the  Guild  of  the  "Pfeiffers,"  and  these  acknowledged 
members  officiated  at  all  dances,  fetes  and  weddings 
known  as  "Kilbes"  or  "Mestigs"  in  the  strange  tongue 
of  the  inhabitants. 

According  to  an  old  law  the  men  of  the  "Marechausee" 
(Marshals  of  France)  and  the  members  of  the  Corps 
of  Gensd'armes,  were  bound  to  learn  to  play  either  a  flute 
or  a  trumpet,  and  upon  proving  their  skill  upon  one  or 
both  of  these  instruments  were  given  a  certificate  and  en- 
tered upon  the  records  of  the  corporation.  Should  any 
fail  in  or  ignore  this,  a  heavy  penalty  was  inflicted. 
They  enjoyed  the  protection  of  the  Emperor,  who  granted 
them  as  "fief  to  the  Seigneur  of  Ribeaupierre.  Thus 
this  Seigneur,  who  possessed  the  three  great  Chateaux  of 
Ribeaupierre,  Giersberg  and  Saint  Ulrich,  became  the 
King  of  the  Musicians  of  Alsace,  and  was  known  as  the 
'Tfeiffer  Koenig,"  who,  however,  for  various  reasons, 

92 


THE  FEAST  OF  THE  PIPERS 

delegated  his  powers  to  a  viceroy,  who  could  play  the 
ancient  instrument  called  the  "Viole,"  and  who  on  state 
occasions  wore  the  crown  of  the  Seigneur  and  enjoyed 
temporary  powers.  The  Association  included  four  mas- 
ters and  twelve  jurors,  who  formed  the  tribune  of  the  cor- 
poration, with  power  to  punish  those  who  were  brought 
before  them  for  infractions  of  any  of  the  rules. 

The  Count  of  Rappoltstein  was  the  "King"  of  all 
musicians  and  minstrels  of  the  Upper  Rhine  up  to  the 
year  1673,  when  he  died.  The  whole  brotherhood  recog- 
nised his  authority,  and  paid  him  a  large  yearly  tax  for 
the  benefit  of  his  protection.  The  corporation  was  also 
a  religious  association.  According  to  the  records,  one 
Eggenolf ,  a  Seigneur  of  Ribeaupierre,  was  a  crusader  and 
was  present  at  the  sacking  of  Constantinople.  He 
brought  home  with  him  an  image  of  the  Virgin  Mary, 
which  he  placed  in  the  chapel  of  Dusenbach,  and  this 
statue  was  carried  in  the  processions  of  the  Brotherhood. 
Each  member  received  a  medal  stamped  with  the  image 
which  he  wore  on  his  breast. 

On  the  day  of  the  Fete,  the  8th  of  September,  the  day 
of  Menetriers  (fiddlers),  or  "Pfeiffertag,"  when  the 
small  square  of  the  town  was  filled  at  early  dawn  with  a 
motley  horde  of  wandering  merchants  and  their  gaily 
painted  wagons;  with  tumblers  and  jugglers,  and  peas- 
ants in  holiday  costumes  from  the  whole  country  round 
— from  Colmar  and  Strassburg  and  even  towns  farther 

93 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

away,  such  as  Bale  and  Wissembourg,  the  bells  in  the 
churches  rang  loudly,  calling  upon  the  musicians  to  form 
in  line,  as  if  this  were  necessary.  They  were  already 
there  in  all  their  regalia,  with  their  great  corporation  ban- 
ner hung  with  wreaths  of  flowers  and  dangling  medals. 
At  the  head  stood  the  *Tf  eiffer  Koenig,"  clad  in  royal  vel- 
vet robes,  a  crowned  head  for  the  occasion,  and  as  proud 
and  haughty  as  any  real  monarch.  There  were  more 
than  twenty  men  carrying  the  quaint  beribboned  bag- 
pipes, and  an  equal  number  who  bore  large  polished  brass 
horns,  some  of  them  trombones.  The  King  carried  an 
ancient  "Viole,"  something  in  shape  like  a  guitar,  and 
there  were  several  other  strangely  shaped  archaic  instru- 
ments played  with  a  bow,  and  held  beneath  the  chin  like 
a  violin.  The  scene  was  animated  and  most  amusing, 
but  the  landlord  of  the  inn,  a  most  doleful  individual, 
regarded  it  all  from  his  doorway  with  uplifted  eye- 
brows, and  refused  to  be  impressed  with  it.  "Ah,*' 
said  he,  "  'Tis  not  what  it  was,  'tis  nothing  now- 
adays— you  should  have  seen  it  as  I  have  often 
seen  it  when  a  boy.  Then  it  was  something 
like!  This" — contemptuously — "this  is  nothing — very 
poor — very  poor! — and  these  men  are  nothing  to-day. 
In  old  times  they  would  be  the  best  men  of  the  town,  but 
now  they  are  a  poor  lot,  simply  the  peasants,  M'sieur  and 
Madame,  simply  the  peasants!" 

But  one  could  hardly  agree  with  him.     It  was  all  most 

94 


THE  FEAST  OF  THE  PIPERS 

picturesque  to  our  eyes,  and  during  the  whole  day  and 
far  into  the  night  the  musicians  played,  the  tumblers 
tumbled,  and  the  peasants  thronged  the  streets  joyously. 
There  was  much  eating  and  a  great  deal  of  drinking,  of 
course,  but  it  was  all  most  orderly,  and  the  quaintly  clad 
"gend'arme''  had  little  to  do  except  parade  solemnly  and 
look  important. 

The  long  street  of  the  little  town  contains  many  fine 
houses  of  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  centuries  in  very 
good  repair.  The  fine  old  tower  in  the  market  place  is  the 
*'Metzgerthurm,"a  remnant  of  the  ancient  fortifications, 
and  there  is  too  a  fine  "Rathaus,"  containing  a  large  col- 
lection of  very  beautiful  old  goblets  of  repousse  silver, 
kept  in  a  state  of  high  polish. 

The  fountain  in  the  square  is  dated  1536,  and  farther 
on  is  the  Gothic  parish  church,  which  was  completed  in 
the  year  1782.  There  are  the  imposing  ruins  of  three 
great  castles  here,  the  Giersberg,  built  in  the  thirteenth 
century  and  boldly  perched  on  the  crest  of  a  precipitous 
cliff,  from  which  a  wonderful  view  of  the  Rhine  valley  is 
had,  and  farther  on,  the  very  remarkable  Saint  Ulrichs- 
burg,  which  is  the  most  modern  of  the  three  castles,  and 
was  blown  up  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  The  type 
of  architecture  is  perhaps  the  most  artistic  in  this  region, 
if  one  may  make  use  of  the  term  for  want  of  a  better  one 
to  qualify  it.  The  Knights'  Hall,  a  most  impressive  and 
spacious  room  lighted  by  double  windows,  is  surrounded 

95 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

by  niches  which  once  held  statues  of  the  Knights.  Great 
flocks  of  rooks  flew  in  and  out  of  these  windows  and 
seemed  quite  fearless  of  our  presence.  The  third  castle 
is  that  of  Hoh-Rappoltstein,  with  a  lofty  tower,  from  the 
summit  of  which,  could  one  climb  it,  a  most  wonderful 
view  must  be  had,  but  the  stones  of  the  staircase  had  so 
fallen  away  in  places  that  it  was  evidently  dangerous. 
The  country  abounds  with  vineyards,  in  which  the  peas- 
antry labor  contentedly,  and  the  wine  made  here  is  most 
excellent  and  astonishingly  cheap.  Hereabouts  are 
countless  small  towns  of  a  thousand  or  two  population, 
each  with  ruined  castles,  old  walls  and  bastions  and  an- 
cient remains  too  numerous  even  to  mention,  and  each 
with  most  delightful  and  cleanly  inns,  where  the  travel- 
ler may  sojourn  "the  world  forgetting,  by  the  world  for- 
got," at  the  cost  of  five  or  six  francs  a  day,  with  pension 
rates  proportionately  reduced.  Indeed,  we  had  difficulty 
in  leaving  Ribeauville  (or  Rappoltsweiler  or  Rapper- 
schwier,  as  it  is  called  indiscriminately  by  the  natives, 
according  to  their  several  preferences) ,  which  for  two  or 
three  days  in  the  year  awakes  to  the  drone  of  the  bagpipes, 
and  the  delighted  dancing  of  the  peasants  on  the  anni- 
versary of  the  "Pfeiffertag." 

As  a  rule,  away  from  the  large  cities  and  towns,  espe- 
cially those  nearest  to  the  former  German  border  line,  the 
important  meal  occurs  at  two  or  half  past  two  in  the 
afternoon.     I  was  accustomed  to  this  when  I  was  here  in 

96 


THE  FEAST  OF  THE  PIPERS 

my  student  days,  but  it  may  be  imagined  that  her  first 
dinner  in  Alsace-Lorraine  made  an  impression  upon  Lady 
Anne.  The  table  d'hote  was  half  filled  when  we  en- 
tered the  room,  the  side  tables  covered  with  a  disorderly 
array  of  piled-up  dishes,  canes,  umbrellas,  and  hats. 
The  buxom,  red  cheeked,  pretty  girls  in  waiting  and  the 
fat  calm  of  the  expressionless  landlord,  throned  in  state 
at  the  end  of  the  board,  all  had  an  odd  look  to  her. 
There  were  already  seated  a  couple  of  fat  Majors,  a  fat 
Colonel,  and  three  fat  Lieutenants,  in  full  uniform,  all 
of  them  wearing  glittering  orders.  There  was  also  an 
officer  of  higher  grade,  all  grizzled  and  obese,  from  whose 
broad  beribboned  breast  swung  a  number  of  medals,  stars, 
and  crosses,  and  from  whose  naturally  grim  visage  a 
sabre  cut,  beginning  at  the  left  temple  and  passing 
through  the  upper  lip,  had  removed  no  iota  of  natural 
grimness.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  table  were  two 
plump,  blue  eyed,  flaxen  haired,  good  natured  looking 
German  ladies,  between  whom  was  a  little  withered  fig 
of  an  official,  whose  name,  as  we  caught  it,  was  of  but  one 
syllable,  but  whose  title  rejoiced  in  thirteen:  "Herr 
Koniglicher-hoch-ober-teuer-Inspektor  Seip !"  When  he 
stood  up  after  dinner  he  appeared  about  four  feet  two 
inches,  or  possibly  two  and  a  half  inches,  tall,  the  two 
and  a  half  inches  being  boot  heel. 

His  self-importance,  however,  was  immeasurable  and 
most  amusing  to  contemplate.    The  ladies  conversed  with 

97 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

him  adoringly,  and  he  was  all  affability  and  condescen- 
sion with  them,  but  the  officers  preserved  a  solemn  silence, 
eyeing  us  with  some  curiosity,  I  thought.  Some  of  them 
broke  and  munched  their  bread  crusts,  disordering  the 
space  before  them;  one  bored  holes  in  the  cloth  with  the 
tines  of  his  fork,  to  the  dismay  of  the  red  cheeked  serving 
maid  who  stood  behind  him.  The  others  had  tucked  the 
large,  damp  linen  napkins  under  their  chins,  and  glanced 
from  time  to  time  impatiently  towards  the  kitchen.  The 
rich  odor  of  soup  floated  out  to  us  all  at  once,  as  the  door 
opened,  and  it  seemed  as  if  all  at  the  table  swayed  to  its 
subtle  flavor  with  one  common  impulse,  and  the  hand  of 
each  officer  moved  automatically  towards  the  spoon  be- 
side his  plate.  The  H.  K.  H.  O.  T.  L  Seip  emitted  a 
long-drawn  ''A-h-h,"  and  clapped  his  diminutive  with- 
ered hands  as  the  red  cheeked  maid  placed  the  large,  deep 
soup  dish  before  him,  and  then,  without  waiting  for  the 
others  to  be  served,  fell  manfully  to  work. 

Late  comers,  on  entering,  wished  the  feeders  "guten 
appetit"  (for  these  at  the  table  d'hote  on  this  occasion 
were  all  Germans),  and  they  growled  and  gurgled  their 
responses  into  the  bowls  of  their  spoons.  Lady  Anne 
was  surprised  that  the  roast  beef,  which  promptly  fol- 
lowed the  soup,  should  taste  sour,  and  was  disinclined  to 
eat  it  until  I  explained  the  reason  and  called  her  atten- 
tion to  the  satisfaction  upon  the  part  of  the  other  guests, 
telling  her  that  here  in  some  of  these  small  places  where 

98 


THE  FEAST  OF  THE  PIPERS 

the  cooking  was  in  German  style,  "all  is  vinegary  that  is 
not  greasy,  and  greasy  that  is  not  sour."  Lady  Anne  was 
not  prepared  to  see  fish  follow  roast,  nor  pastry  and  mar- 
malade succeed  the  fish;  nor  the  huge  joints  of  roasted 
pork  and  veal  that  followed  the  pastry;  nor  yet  the 
chickens  that  displaced  the  roast,  to  make  room  in  turn 
for  a  course  of  crayfish,  and  finally  the  goose  quill  tooth- 
picks passed  in  a  tall  glass  from  one  to  the  other,  and  in- 
dustriously used  as  a  matter  of  course.  All  at  the  table 
ate  heartily  of  all  the  dishes,  and  some  sighed  as  the  tooth- 
picks appeared. 

By  the  time  the  dinner  was  half  over,  one  heard  an 
occasional  remark,  but  when  the  crayfish  was  served  a 
general  buzz  of  conversation  ensued,  through  which 
rumbled  an  occasional  ponderous  chuckleborn  German 
pleasantry.     And  thus  the  dinner  progressed  and  ended. 

As  a  mark  of  courtesy,  we  were  invited  to  a  christen- 
ing celebration  in  the  village,  to  be  exact,  at  the  edge 
of  the  village,  Burgomeister  Kugelspiel  and  Frau  Burgo- 
meisterinn  Kugelspiel  and  the  two  plump  flaxen  haired 
maidens  who  were  pledges  of  their  affection;  and  the 
maid  who  carried  the  iron  lantern  with  which  to  light  us 
on  our  way  home,  escorted  us. 

There  we  found  a  large  gathering,  more  majors  and 
young  lieutenants  in  spick  and  span  uniforms  and  em- 
bryo mustaches;  a  dozen  young  girls,  and  stout  mamas 
and  papas  of  greater  or  less  obesity,  all  bent  evidently 

99 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

upon  having  a  very  "deuce"  of  a  time.  Most  of  the  men 
smoked  long  stemmed  pipes  with  elaborately  decorated 
and  betasseled  china  bowls,  except  the  officers,  who 
smoked  only  black  cigars. 

There  was  a  great  deal  of  eating  and  drinking,  the 
ladies  sipping  black  coffee,  and  consuming  pounds  and 
pounds  of  heavy  sweet  cake,  while  the  men  ate  cold  meats 
and  such,  washing  it  down  with  copious  and  frequent 
drafts  of  Rhenish  wine,  all  with  that  enormous  and  re- 
markable power  of  deglutition  confined  alone  to  Ger- 
man burghers. 

And  thus  having  eaten,  drunk  and  smoked,  they  were 
all  in  great  good  humor,  smiling  fat  expressive  smiles  of 
calm  joy  in  existence.  Therefore  there  was  nothing  left 
but  black  coffee,  the  inevitable  glass  of  brandy,  and  the 
contemplative  pipe. 

In  the  drawing  room,  young  people  waltzed  and 
polka'd,  accompanied  by  a  piano  and  violin,  while  in  the 
corners  the  plump,  placid  mamas  played  whist  or  gos- 
siped. 

Out  in  the  garden  we  found  the  young  mother  exhibit- 
ing the  baby  with  pride.  Afterwards  we  saw  her  execut- 
ing a  slow  waltz  with  the  happy  father,  in  which  she 
revolved  with  true  bovine  gracefulness  towards  the  din- 
ing room,  and  our  last-  view  of  them  both  through  the 
open  window  as  we  departed,  showed  her  pressing  ten- 
derly upon  his  acceptance  a  gigantic  cut  of  sausage. 

ICX) 


THE  FEAST  OF  THE  PIPERS 

When  he  put  it  to  his  lips  her  heart  quite  melted  within 
her,  and  as  she  sank  upon  his  bosom  overcome  with  joy 
and  tenderness,  she  exclaimed:  "O  thou  dearest  and 
most  blessed  man  I" 

"They  are  so  happy,'*  said  the  Frau  Burgomeisterinn 
Kugelspiel  to  Lady  Anne.  "Ach ! — is  it  not  beautiful  to 
behold?" 


101 


nttillQtnif 


Mtdlotisf 


aLTHOUGH  Mulhouse  ^  is  a  very  old  town,  except- 
ing the  restored,  quaintly  gabled,  be-statued  and 
gilded  Hotel  de  Ville,  there  is  little  to  attract  the 
antiquary.  Mulhouse  is  to-day  an  intensely  modern 
town^ — at  least  in  the  estimation  of  the  Mulhousians. 
There  was  formerly  in  the  center  of  the  town  an  old 
church,  the  temple  of  Saint  Etienne,  built  in  the  twelfth 
century,  with  a  choir  and  steeple  of  the  fourteenth  cen- 
tury, but  this  was  demolished  in  1858,  and  a  vast  con- 
struction in  doubtful  taste  was  erected  upon  the  site. 
However,  a  fine  tower  called  the  "Bollwerk,"  which 
formed  part  of  the  ancient  fortifications  of  Mulhouse,  yet 
stands,  and  is  kept  in  excellent  repair.  The  Mulhous- 
ians exhibit  it  with  some  pride,  too,  but  one  can  well  see 
that  the  inhabitants  are  not  busied  with,  or  interested  in, 
the  past.  There  are  indeed  some  rather  pathetic  imita- 
tions of  what  they  call  modernity.  But  the  people  are 
modest  to  a  fault,  and  kindly  to  the  last  degree.  The 
little  river,  the  Doller,  is  the  fortune  of  the  town.  Evil 
smelling  as  it  is,  its  quality  is  valued  highly  in  the 
bleacheries,  and  more  especially  as  applied  to  colors  and 

*  Mulhouse :     The  French  form  of  the  name. 

105 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

dyes,  and  of  this  river  they  are  very  proud.  If  you  ask 
them  leading  questions  concerning  art  and  architecture 
they  exhibit  some  surprise  mingled  with  annoyance,  and 
again  point  to  the  Town  Hall.  So  one  returns  to  it  for 
a  second  examination. 

The  building  is  the  sole  survival  of  the  ancient  type 
which  occupied  the  square  when  this  whole  district  was 
destroyed  by  a  conflagration  in  the  sixteenth  century.  In 
the  detail  of  its  lines,  and  in  spite  of  its  many  restorations 
it  has  very  well  preserved  its  ancient  character,  and  its 
ogival  portal  with  baldaquin  and  columns  marks  the  pe- 
riod between  the  end  of  the  Gothic  and  beginning  of  the 
Renaissance.  Montaigne,  who  visited  Mulhouse  in  the 
year  1580,  made  the  following  enthusiastic  entry  in  his 
diary :  "The  Hotel  de  Ville  at  Mulhouse ;  a  magnificent 
palace,  all  statues,  painting  and  gilding."  The  paint- 
ings on  the  outside  walls,  frequently  restored,  are  still  to 
be  seen,  and  represent  Mercy,  Truth,  Prudence,  Temper- 
ance, Faith,  Hope  and  Charity.  These  figures  decorate 
the  whole  front  of  the  edifice,  and  furnish  all  the  art  that 
Mulhouse  needs  or  can  stand,  apparently,  at  least  since 
the  Prussians  seized  the  province. 

On  one  of  the  lateral  facades  a  curiosity  is  pointed  out 
to  the  stranger  with  various  explanations.  It  represents 
a  human  head  suspended  by  a  chain  before  a  tablet  con- 
taining an  inscription  setting  forth  that  all  "Bavards" 
(prattlers)    and   "Medisants"    (slanderers)    were  con- 

106 


MULHOUSE 

demned  to  carry  this  mask  suspended  about  their  necks/ 
and  thus  expose  themselves  in  the  market  place  on  mar- 
ket days  according  to  their  sentences.  This  object  is 
called  the  "Klapperstein."  And  the  people  gravely  ex- 
plain to  the  stranger  that  "Of  course  it  is  not  used  now- 
adays!" 

The  life  of  Mulhouse,  which  might  perhaps  get  upon 
one's  nerves  had  one  to  dwell  there  for  a  length  of  time, 
is  for  a  short  sojourn  sufficiently  amusing.  The  cafe  life 
is  modeled  upon  that  of  Paris,  although  the  signs  are  all 
in  German,  and  the  "consommation"  is  the  same  as  that 
in  France.  The  beer  served  is  very  good,  and  the  places 
where  it  is  sold  are  quite  crowded  by  prosperous  looking 
men  with  their  wives  and  daughters.  The  town  is  one 
of  the  most  ancient  in  Europe,  but  aims  to  be  most  mod- 
ern. It  is  famous  for  the  construction  in  1839  of  a  rail- 
way line  by  Nicolas  Koechlin,  a  citizen  of  Mulhouse, 
from  this  city  to  Thann,  at  a  time  when  such  enterprises 
were  looked  upon  as  sheer  lunacy.  The  inhabitants  are 
vastly  proud  of  the  "new  quarter,"  as  it  is  called,  where 
there  are  wide  avenues  constructed  upon  a  uniform  plan, 
with  large  and  imposing-looking  houses  built  with  ar- 

*  On  the  plaque  is  the  following : 

"Zum  Klapperstein  bin  ich  genannt 
Den  boken  Mautern  wohf  bekannt 
Mer  Lust  zu  zant  und  hader  hat 
Der  mus  mich  tragen  durch  die  Stadt.'* 

\  107 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

cades  about  a  space  shaped  like  a  fan.  It  would  seem  as 
if  the  whole  population  of  ninety-one  thousand  passes 
through  this  quarter  daily,  especially  along  the  resplen- 
dent Rue  du  Sauvage  (The  Wildmangasse,  as  the  Prus- 
sians have  insisted  upon  naming  it).  This  street  is 
famed  all  over  Alsace  as  at  once  the  great  business  street 
and  promenade,  and  here  one  can  study  the  manners  and 
customs,  as  well  as  the  dialects,  so  difficult  for  the  tourist 
to  understand. 

Mulhouse  is  a  great  center  for  Societies,  and  these  are 
subdivided  into  innumerable  "Comites."  At  the  head  is 
the  great  "Societe  Industrielle,"  formed  in  1825  by  a 
group  of  twenty-two  citizens  of  Mulhouse.  This  now 
comprises  the  "Comites"  of  Chemistry,  Machinery,  Com- 
merce, History  and  Statistics,  Natural  History,  Fine 
Arts,  and  Public  Utility.  These  bring  forth  practical 
ideas  for  the  public  welfare,  which  most  enthusiastically 
have  been  adopted  by  the  authorities.  As,  for  instance, 
the  Artisans'  Colony  (Arbeiter  Stadt),  a  large  tract  in 
the  northwestern  part  of  the  town,  purchased  in  1853  by 
Mayor  Jean  Dollfus,  and  presented  by  wealthy  citizens 
to  the  town.  This  was  one  of  the  earliest  attempts  to'^ 
provide  good  and  cheap  houses  for  the  working  classes. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  successful  for  a  number  of  years, 
but  is  now  occupied  by  a  somewhat  higher  class  of  tenants 
than  formerly. 

The  wide  canal  of  the  Rhone  and  the  Rhine  bordered 

108 


:     5  »       II  si 


CT.^-r.^^    whn^fo^    H4.v^«»Kir.     CC)- 


MULHOUSE 

by  spacious  quays,  and  lined  with  modern  chateau-like 
buildings,  is  very  attractive  and  impressive,  and  there  is 
a  new  Post  Office  at  the  draw-bridge,  over  which  the 
people  are  genuinely  enthusiastic.  In  the  face  of  all 
this  newness  and  splendor  the  voice  of  the  antiquary  is 
hushed,  and  either  the  heavy  smoke  of  the  manufactories 
or  the  fine,  clean  promenade  of  the  Tannenwald,  from 
which  all  the  old  towers  and  walls  have  been  torn  down 
and  carted  away,  have  driven  him  hence.  In  truth,  one 
must  admit  that  Mulhouse  came  late  to  France,  and  only 
remained  French  for  less  than  seventy-five  years,  but 
certainly  she  gave  to  France  all  her  heart  as  well  as  all  of 
her  economic  interests.  When  the  separation  of  1871 
came,  there  seemed  an  end  of  all  hope  for  Mulhouse,  and 
many  of  the  merchants  and  millers  left  the  province  and 
re-established  themselves  and  their  mills  across  the  fron- 
tier, for  example,  at  Epinal  and  at  Belfort.  Perhaps 
more  than  any  other  Alsatian  town,  Mulhouse  has  pre- 
served its  attachment  for  France,  and  especially  for  Paris, 
which  it  so  comically  imitates.  If  they  think  that  you 
are  a  trustworthy  confidant,  Mulhousians  will  tell  you 
many  interesting  things  about  the  Prussians,  some  of 
which  will  shock  you  more  or  less,  depending  upon  just 
how  familiar  you  may  be  with  Prussian  customs  through- 
out Alsace;  but  these  details  can  have  no  place  in  this 
chronicle. 

But  one  fact  may  be  stated  here  which  is  surprising. 

109 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

The  Prussians  do  not  feel  comfortable  in  Mulhouse,  for 
there  are  less  than  ten  thousand  of  them  there,  not  ten 
per  cent,  of  the  population,  and  this  in  spite  of  the  fact 
that  Mulhouse  is  one  of  the  richest  in  natural  resources 
of  all  the  towns  of  Alsace-Lorraine.  Then,  too,  it  is  to 
be  remarked  that  the  Kaiser,  in  all  his  visits  to  the 
Province,  has  never  once  visited  Mulhouse.  There  must 
be  a  very  potent  reason  for  this  omission. 

Wandering  about  the  old  part  of  the  town,  one  came 
upon  a  section  of  ancient  wall  at  an  angle  of  which  was  a 
most  delightful  and  satisfying  tall  tower  of  slender  pro- 
portions, surmounted  by  a  steep  pent  roof,  all  gayly 
"fleched,"  and  furnished  with  a  pointed  window  of 
charming  character.  The  upper  part  of  the  tower  was 
white-washed,  and  below  this  section  was  a  large  and 
very  well  executed  mural  decoration,  representing  a 
knight  "cap-a-pie"  on  horseback  before  a  background  of 
walled  town,  all  set  forth  with  blue,  orange,  and  crimson 
and  gold  in  most  artistic  fashion.  The  tower  joined  two 
sections  of  wall  pierced  by  wide  arched  gates,  and  here 
the  narrow  street  was  lined  with  closed  and  shuttered 
small  two  and  three  storied  houses,  the  doors  of  which 
had  large  brass  knobs  and  handles.  I  loitered  about  this 
gateway  tower  for  nearly  twenty  minutes,  and  during 
this  time  not  a  soul  passed  save  an  old  woman  with  a  bas- 
ket of  eels,  who  either  would  not,  nor  could  not,  under- 
stand my  questions.  All  she  would  say  was,  "Boll- 
no 


MULHOUSE 

werk — Bollwerk — M'sieur" — so  I  had  to  give  it  up,  but 
I  made  a  sketch  of  the  tower  and  the  gateway.  From  a 
little  book  published  in  Mulhouse  I  gathered  the  follow- 
ing facts:  ''The  town  of  Mulhouse  owes  its  birth  to  a 
mill  built  upon  the  banks  of  the  river  111,  at  the  entrance 
of  the  great  plain  of  Alsace,  and  almost  at  equal  distance 
from  the  Rhine  and  the  Vosges.  During  the  Middle 
Ages  it  formed  a  part  of  the  League  of  the  Ten  Imperial 
Cities  of  Alsace,  but  in  the  sixteenth  century  it  joined 
the  Helvetian  Cantons  and  adopted,  like  Berne,  the 
Protestant  religion.  Its  independence  was  maintained 
in  1648,  and  Mulhouse  became  part  of  French  territory. 
In  the  eighteenth  century  the  town,  hitherto  agricultural, 
became  industrial.  Great  merchants  such  as  Schmalzer, 
Koechlin,  and  Dollfus  built  mills  to  carry  on  the  manu- 
facture of  cotton  and  dyes,  which  attracted  an  army  of 
workmen.  Thus  the  products  of  Mulhouse  became  cele- 
brated in  all  the  markets  of  the  world,  and  the  towns 
were  enriched.  At  the  time  of  the  Revolution  France 
established  custom  houses  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine,  so 
Mulhouse  could  not  send  any  of  her  products  over  into 
Germany  or  Switzerland,  in  consequence  of  which  and 
partly  from  an  attraction  of  sentiment — "raisons  de  la 
coeur" — she  resolved  to  join  with  France.  So  on  the 
3rd  of  January,  1798,  those  at  the  head  of  the  little 
Republic  voted  for  reunion  with  the  Republic  of  France 
by  97  votes  against  15.     The  treaty  of  reunion  was 

111 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

signed  and  the  fete  of  celebration  was  fixed  for  March 
15th,  with  Metzer,  deputy  of  the  Upper  Rhine,  at  the 
head  of  the  delegates.  On  the  appointed  day  and  amid 
salvos  of  artillery  the  event  was  solemnized.  A  great 
number  of  triumphal  arches  of  liberty  were  erected  in 
various  quarters  of  the  town,  which  was  decked  with 
flags.  A  fine  procession  composed  of  the  ancient  magis- 
trates paraded  the  principal  streets.  There  were  also 
corteges  of  Mulhousians  in  ancient  costume,  and  young 
girls  bearing  a  large  banner  of  white  satin  upon  which 
was  a  patriotic  inscription,  followed  by  a  lady  in  rich  cos- 
tume carrying  a  white  satin  cushion  on  which  lay  a  scroll 
manuscript  of  the  French  constitution.  These  corteges 
proceeded  to  the  "Grande  Place,"  where  tribunes  had  been 
prepared ;  one  by  the  magistrates  of  Mulhouse,  the  other 
by  the  French  authorities.  Metzger,  addressing  his  al- 
locution to  the  Ancient  Council  of  Mulhouse,  demanded 
to  know  if  there  was  any  act  of  sovereignty  which  he  was 
desired  to  accomplish.  In  response,  the  magistrates  de- 
livered to  the  Council  of  Illzach  all  their  duties  against 
Mulhouse,  and  then  handed  over  the  letters  of  enfran- 
chisement. The  magistrate  then  read  the  treaty  of  re- 
union aloud,  and  amid  salvos  from  the  cannon  in  the 
"Grande  Place,"  the  French  municipality  was  installed. 
From  this  day  on  Mulhouse  was  a  French  town,  but  also, 
it  must  be  said,  she  maintained  a  certain  individuality. 
The  children  of  the  citizens  were  educated  to  become 

112 


•2  1     •   ••        ! 


MULHOUSE 

merchants,  millers  and  dyers.  Mulhouse  remained  a  city 
of  free  initiatives.  Its  inhabitants,  without  demanding 
any  help  from  the  State,  created  great  schools,  in  which 
were  taught  spinning,  weaving,  chemistry,  including 
courses  for  young  girls.  A  great  industrial  and  social 
community  was  built  and  endowed,  and  Mulhouse  pros- 
pered.— ^Then  came  the  Franco-Prussian  War. 

...  If  one  wishes,  it  is  possible  to  be  free  of  the 
bondage  o£  railway  travel  in  Alsace,  for  everywhere  at 
low  rates  one  can  obtain  delightfully  comfortable  old 
carriages  at  low  rates,  and  quaintly  garbed  drivers,  who 
gladly  entertain  one  with  folk  lore  of  more  or  less  truth- 
ful quality.  One  may  thus  be  restored  to  the  romance 
of  travel  such  as  our  posting  grandparents  enjoyed. 
There  is  to  be  had  thus  the  delight  of  taking  a  town 
unawares,  so  to  speak,  "stealing  upon  it  by  back  ways 
and  unchronicled  paths,"  and  discovering  in  it,  per- 
chance, an  aspect  hidden  away  by  the  bulk  of  some  rail- 
way embankment  or  the  ugly  brick  wall  of  a  station. 

It  is  a  most  delightful  country,  this  Alsace-Lorraine, 
"land  of  mountain  ways — dear  haunted  land  of  gorge 
and  glen,"  broken  by  waves  of  vine-clad  hill,  and  fertile 
well  watered  valley;  and  dotted  with  the  villages,  and 
frequent,  smiling,  happily  located  villages,  with  well 
paved,  quaintly  shaped  market  places  surrounded  by 
archaic  arcaded  houses  on  which  unmolested  long  legged 
storks  build  their  ragged  nests  and  rear  their  young, 

113 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

The  country  is  green  in  summer,  so  full  and  close  in  tex- 
ture, so  pleasantly  diversified  by  clumps  of  dark  wood- 
land in  the  valleys,  and  by  those  silvery,  mill-embossed 
streams  threading  the  fields  with  light;  all  has  the  added 
beauty  of  reach  and  amplitude.  There  is  constant 
charm  of  detail  in  all  these  small  towns  thus  reached  in 
the  leisurely  drawn  old  carriage  through  which  we  thus 
passed  with  perfect  content  and  confidence  in  the  ability 
of  the  fat  old  white  hollow-backed  horse,  which  ambled 
along  with  head  on  one  side,  regarding  us  solemnly  from 
one  sympathetic,  limpid  and  understanding  eye,  and  in 
the  stream  of  folk-lore,  more  or  less  gratuitously  sup- 
plied by  our  driver.  The  landscape  opens  and  closes  in 
endless  variety,  and  the  villages,  some  of  them  perched 
high  upon  ridges,  with  old  houses  stumbling  down  at 
most  picturesque  angles,  and  others  tucked  away  in  dim, 
misty  hollows  among  thick  orchards,  with  all  the  pleasant 
country  industries  reaching  often  up  to  the  open  doors  of 
the  old  towered  churches.  In  many  of  the  smaller  vil- 
lages thus  come  upon,  deep  pent  roofs  overhang  the  plas- 
tered and  beamed  walls  of  the  cottages,  all  "espaliered" 
with  crab  apple  and  pear  trees,  and  lines  of  quacking 
ducks  swim  in  ordered  rows  in  the  ponds,  so  well  fringed 
with  hawthorn  and  laburnum.  There  is  always  some 
note  of  distinction  to  be  met  with;  here  the  arched  gate- 
way of  a  sixteenth  century  chateau;  there  the  mossy  wall 
of  a  triple-arched  abbey,  or  church,  or  ancient  guild  hall. 

114 


MULHOUSE 

Everything  about  this  rich,  juicy  land  is  bathed  in  a  ten- 
der, lambent  light  unlike  any  other  that  I  have  met 
with;  it  is  characteristically  Alsatian,  even  to  the  round, 
red  cheeks  of  the  strangely  clad  children,  and  the  drowsy 
grouping  of  the  fat  sleek  cattle  in  lush  pastures.  It  is 
all  cultivated  and  disciplined  to  the  very  last  point  of 
finish,  this  expanse  of  hill  and  plain  and  valley,  and 
proves  how  nature  may  be  utilized  to  the  last  degree 
without  losing  an  iota  of  its  naturalness  and  charm.  In 
some  regions  of  this  much  coveted  country,  where  space 
is  restricted,  the  endless  walls  and  lines  of  fruit  trees  bor- 
dering the  straight  roads  may  weary  one,  but  as  a  rule 
here  in  Alsace,  where  cultivation  is  hand  in  hand  with  all 
unconscious  sentiment,  one  finds  the  higher  beauty  of 
the  land  developed,  bespeaking  long  familiar  intercourse 
between  the  soil  and  the  inhabitants,  where  almost  every 
field  has  a  place  in  history  and  a  name,  and  each  guarded 
tree  a  feudal  designation.  And  so  on  we  jogged  along 
the  curved  level  road  which  bordered  the  river  Lauch, 
tributary  of  the  111  and  the  Logelbach,  toward  the  town 
of  Colmar,  in  no  hurry  to  reach  it,  be  it  understood,  for 
this  was  a  journey  of  leisure  as  well  as  sentiment. 

We  continually  checked  the  jogging  pace  of  the  fat  old 
white  horse  to  enjoy  the  bright  gardens  on  the  banks,  and 
the  green  promontories  reflected  on  the  surface  of  the 
stream.  The  many  old  castles  and  manors  of  brown  or 
gray  stone,  over-topping  the  dense  thickets  of  lilac  and 

115 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

laburnum,  and  on  the  river  reaches,  where  old  slouch- 
hatted  and  red-vested  fishermen  nodded  over  their  poles, 
till  in  the  distance  we  saw  the  crests  of  the  dim  moun- 
tains, which  are  only  two  miles  or  so  from  Colmar. 


116 


(itoltnnr 


(Solnmr 


1EAVING  the  attractive  cross-country  road,  here 
and  there  embowered  by  large  trees  bordering  the 
fertile  farm  lands,  we  turned  into  a  wide,  well- 
paved  avenue,  which  at  length  was  continuously  lined 
by  rows  of  neat  white  modern-looking  houses  of  stucco, 
but  of  no  particular  character  or  interest.  This  avenue 
led  through  the  Public  Garden  to  the  Grande  Place, 
or  "Champs  de  Mars,"  which  seemed  well  nigh  de- 
serted, save  for  a  few  sleepy  coachmen  lolling  upon 
the  seats  of  some  archaic-looking  cabs,  patiently 
waiting  for  fares.  Past  the  bronze  monument  to 
the  great  Admiral  Bruat  by  the  sculptor  Bartholdi, 
who  modeled  our  Statue  of  Liberty  in  the  har- 
bor of  New  York,  and  turning  the  corner  all  at  once 
we  were  in  the  midst  of  the  bustle  of  a  busy  city.  There 
were  lines  of  street  peddlers  with  barrows  noisily  calling 
out  their  wares;  trolley  cars  with  clanging  gongs  and 
grinding,  creaking  wheels,  all  laden  with  people;  long 
lines  of  workmen  liberated  for  the  noon  hour  from  the 
factories  thronged  the  sidewalks,  and  before  the  nu- 

119 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

merous  cafes  prosperous-looking  people  sat  at  small  iron 
tables,  drinking  and  smoking.  Threading  the  Ruf  achers 
Strasse,  we  passed  with  some  difficulty  through  the 
thronging  multitude  into  the  Kleber  Strasse,  and  so  on 
to  the  ancient  inner  town,  in  great  contrast  to  the  mod- 
ernity of  the  other  and  newer  part.  There  we  found 
narrow,  picturesque  streets  and  byways,  and  buildings  of 
the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries  grouped  about 
the  old  cruciform  Gothic  church  of  St.  Martin.  Here 
were  dim  shady  ways,  lined  with  ancient  houses  painted 
in  faded  tones  of  rose  and  green,  with  tiled  roofs  hidden 
by  the  leafy  branches  of  tall  trees  in  the  courtyards. 

Always  these  old  towns  grew  up  around  the  great 
churches,  and  perhaps  nowhere  is  this  fact  brought  home 
to  one  more  clearly  than  in  Colmar.  If  St.  Martin's 
Church  has  not  the  splendors  of  Strassburg  Cathedral  to 
offer,  it  certainly  is  a  notable  example  of  the  ogival 
period  in  Alsace,  and  occupies  the  first  rank  among  the 
sacred  edifices  of  the  Province.  Of  course,  as  may  be 
imagined  and  expected,  it  suffered  greatly  during  the 
Reformation ;  its  precious  glass  was  destroyed,  its  sacristy 
pillaged,  and  its  chime  of  bells  carried  off.  The  Revo- 
lution demolished  its  carved  stalls  and  altars,  and  the 
splendid  oaken  confessionals  were  broken  up  and  sold 
for  kindling  wood.  The  Revolutionaries,  so  we  are  told, 
placed  statues  of  Voltaire  and  Rousseau  in  the  nave,  and 
exalted  the  "God  of  Reason''  in  the  temple  from  whose 

120 


COLMAR 

summit  ''shone  a  great  bonfire  in  an  iron  basin,  visible 
for  miles  around." 

Near  at  hand  is  a  small  square  in  which  is  the  Dom- 
inican Church  of  the  thirteenth  century.  Here  was 
silence  and  shadows;  old  high  walled  houses  with  lace- 
adorned  windows;  old  walls  of  mellowed  brick,  pierced 
by  mysterious  low,  small  doors  painted  green,  and 
adorned  with  highly  polished  and  inviting  brass 
knockers.  Here  old  cloaked  women,  lace-capped, 
stopped  to  gossip  in  the  shadows,  while  overhead  in  the 
sunlight  doves  flew  about  the  cornices  and  gables.  One 
heard  the  distant  rumbling  notes  of  a  great  organ,  punc- 
tuated by  the  laughter  and  cries  of  children  playing 
somewhere  behind  the  walls.  The  ancient  Place  aux 
Recollets  contains  the  celebrated  "Arcades,"  the  habita- 
tion of  the  Protestant  pastors.  It  is  a  good  example  of 
seventeenth  century  construction,  so  architects  say — 
with  pointed  turrets,  and  festooned  gable. 

Near  it  is  the  "Douane,"  or  custom  house,  belonging 
to  a  more  ancient  period,  some  say  the  fifteenth  century. 
Its  history  covers  a  multitude  of  uses,  and  at  one  time,  in 
the  eighteenth  century  it  served  as  Hotel  de  Ville.  To- 
day it  is  used  as  a  museum  of  antiquities.  It  is  remark- 
able for  two  different  styles  of  architecture,  the  most 
ancient  of  which  offers,  with  its  beautiful  balustrade,  so 
fine  and  so  simple  in  design,  a  most  precious  example  of 
the  Gothic  art  of  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century  in 

121 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Alsace.  Colmar  is  indeed  rich  in  ancient  halls  and 
houses.  The  list  is  too  long  to  include  in  one  chapter. 
There  is  the  so-called  "Maison  des  Tetes,"  of  the  purest 
Renaissance,  celebrated  for  its  embellishment  of  masks 
and  grimacing  heads  which  ornament  the  columns  of  the 
windows,  the  two  balconies  of  the  tourelle,  and  the  por- 
tal. There  is  the  Maison  Piister,  formerly  the  Sign  of 
the  Chapeau,  of  the  date  1537,  perhaps  the  most  curious 
in  all  Alsace,  with  its  quaint  wooden  gallery,  its  "cage 
d'escalier,"  or  staircase,  and  its  "encore"  belled  tower 
ornamented,  gilded,  and  frescoed  wth  religious  paintings. 
There  are  also  the  Maison  Macker,  late  Gothic  period; 
the  Vaisseau  d'Or,  of  the  sixteenth  century;  the  Renais- 
sance portal  of  the  Maison  Hillenmeyer,  and,  the  Maison 
Adolph,  all  meriting  detailed  description,  and  of  un- 
doubted character. 

Many  of  the  houses  of  Colmar  bear  emblazoned  in- 
scriptions on  their  fronts  in  old  Latin  or  ornate  German 
*— as,  for  example,  "Deus  dedit  incrementum,  Deus 
quoque  custodiet,"  says  one.  "Pax  intrantibus,  salus 
exeuntibus,"  says  another.  "Accrescat  domui  res  simul 
et  decus,  egregiis  factis  debita  gloria,"  and  "Soli  Deo 
gloria."  Then  in  the  old  German:  "Ehe  veracht  als 
gemacht"  (Easier  to  criticise  than  to  execute).  "Fide, 
sed  vide,  drau  aber  schau  wem"  (Beware  in  whom  thou 
confidest)\     "Der  Gott  vertraut,  ist  wohl  gebaut"  (Who 

122 


COLMAR 

so  confides  in  God  is  well  built) .  "Ich  baue  f  iir  mich,  sih 
du  fiir  dich"  (I  build  for  myself,  look  out  for  thyself) . 
Generally  when  there  is  no  inscription  over  the  door,  it 
will  be  found  on  the  lintel,  or  there  will  be  some  sort  of 
shield  or  escutcheon  bearing  the  arms  or  the  emblem  of 
the  householder;  or  again,  the  house  will  be  named  for 
some  object,  flower  or  animal.  Thus  one  finds  the  house 
of  the  Bear,  the  house  of  the  Rose,  or  that  of  the  Lily, 
each  with  its  painted  or  sculptured  emblem. 

In  the  little  street  of  the  Augustans  is  pointed  out  the 
house  in  which  Martin  Schongauer,  the  painter,  was  born, 
and  where  the  great  Voltaire  lived  and  labored  over  his 
"Annals  of  the  Empire"  in  1753.  Here  dwelt  the 
powerful  Society  of  the  Corporations,  a  body  composed 
of  the  governing  heads  of  the  various  trades  of  the 
province.  Superficial  as  was  of  course  our  view  of  the 
old  town,  Colmar  seemed  all  sufficient  unto  herself. 
Behind  the  small  panes  of  their  shop  windows  the  mer- 
chants seemed  to  wait  for  customers  without  any  visible 
impatience,  much  as  their  ancestors  must  have  done  in 
days  long  gone.  Movements  in  the  streets  were  unhur- 
ried. People  gossiped  in  the  open  doors.  The  cos- 
tumes of  the  peasants  seemed  to  be  of  the  same  cut  as 
that  in  the  old  prints,  as  far  as  we  could  judge.  We 
were  told  that  many  of  the  younger  people  went  over 
the  border  into  France  after  the  annexation,  rather  than 

123 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

live  under  German  rule,  but  I  must  confess  that  there 
seemed  to  be  plenty  of  young  people  in  the  town  during 
the  days  we  spent  there. 

There  were  certainly  a  great  many  German  soldiers 
in  uniform  everywhere,  and  many  times  I  heard  them 
conversing  in  French  in  the  cafes  where  they  gathered. 
I  confess  that  I  was  surprised  at  this,  for  I  had  been  told 
that  the  use  of  the  French  tongue  was  forbidden  to  the 
soldiers  in  Alsace.  But  when  I  asked  the  proprietor  of 
the  cafe  about  it,  he  only  shrugged  his  shoulders,  and 
with  uplifted  eyebrows  exclaimed  enigmatically:  ''It  is 
forbidden  to  give  information  against  the  Government." 

But  certainly  I  heard  the  French  tongue  in  use  at  Col- 
mar  quite  as  much  as  the  German.  Behind  the  museum, 
wnere  the  old  people  congregated,  at  the  base  of  the 
Statue  of  the  poet  Pfeffel,  in  the  crowded  center  of  the 
town;  on  the  banks  of  the  river  where  the  washwomen 
were  at  work  in  long  lines,  their  voices  and  their  laughter 
heard  above  the  noise  of  their  paddles  so  deftly  wielded, 
I  heard  French  spoken  without  any  attempt  at  conceal- 
ment. Likewise  in  the  somewhat  grimy  dining  room  of 
the  "Schwarzes-Lamm"  in  the  Rapp  Platz,  where  we  had 
a  culminating  surprise  in  the  excellence  of  the  table 
d'hote,  and  where  amid  the  onion-scented  gathering  at 
the  long,  clean  table  the  people  grouped  cheerfully, 
while  a  flushed-faced  buxom  handmaiden  laid  before  us 
a  remarkable  succession  of  the  most  varied  and  well- 

124 


COLMAR 

cooked  dishes.  There  was  a  tender  filet,  an  airy  souffle, 
some  delicious  artichokes  with  butter  sauce,  and  coffee 
that  was  fragrant  and  real.  Here  in  this  small  hostelry 
of  the  sign  of  the  Black  Lamb,  with  the  German  flag  fly- 
ing over  the  door  and  two  German  officers  at  the  end  of 
the  long  table,  the  only  ones  who  spoke  German  were 
the  landlord  and  the  flush-faced  handmaiden  who  passed 
the  viands.  The  officers  addressed  us  quite  civilly, 
when  they  found  that  we  were  Americans,  and  not  Eng- 
lish, as  they  had  fancied,  asking  if  we  had  seen  the  great 
Saint  Martin's  Church,  and  if  we  did  not  greatly  admire 
the  fifteenth  century  stained  glass*?  One,  the  younger, 
and  a  handsome  blond  giant  of  a  fellow  disclosed  the 
fact  that  he  had  been  an  art  student  in  Berlin,  and  was 
able  to  criticise  intelligently  the  painting  by  Martin 
Schongauer  in  the  Sacristy,  "The  Madonna  in  an  Arbor 
of  Roses."  He  spoke  of  the  retouching  of  the  painting 
as  adding  harshness  to  the  already  harsh  manner  of  the 
painter.  It  was  he  who  directed  us  to  the  old  abbey 
church,  containing  a  remarkable  collection  of  early  Ger- 
man paintings,  where  works  of  Mathias  Grunewald 
(1529),  the  chief  Rhenish  painter,  were  to  be  seen.  It 
was  here  that  Bartholdi  was  born  and  lived  before  he 
went  to  Paris  to  study  sculpture.  The  young  officer 
knew  all  about  this,  but  modestly  said  that  he  had  never 
had  the  honor  of  meeting  Bartholdi.  He  thereafter  dis- 
coursed learnedly  with  Lady  Anne,  concerning  the  early 

125 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

German  School  of  painting,  mentioning  too  quite  cas- 
ually the  fact  that  Erwin  of  Steinbach  was  the  originator 
of  Strassburg  Minster,  and  insisting  that  the  details  of 
the  Gothic  architecture  were  no  mere  slavish  copying  of 
existing  examples.  We  were  both  surprised  at  his  learn- 
ing, as  well  as  his  modest  bearing,  which  was  quite  at 
variance  with  what  we  had  been  led  to  expect.  After- 
wards, when  the  meal  was  over  and  most  of  the  gathering 
had  departed,  including  the  two  officers,  our  host  in- 
formed us  that  the  young  officer  was  a  nobleman,  a 
"Hochzeit." 

The  next  day  we  had  the  pleasure  of  riding  out  to  a 
small  town,  Eguisheim,  where  the  fete  called  "Le  Mes- 
tig"  in  Alsace  takes  place  every  year.  Here  there  is  a 
very  badly  restored  palace  (called  'Tfalz")  of  the  eighth 
century,  and  an  old  castle  called  the  Dreien-Eguisheim, 
with  three  great  stone  towers  visible  for  miles  around. 
These  towers  are  known  severally  as  the  "Dagsburg,"  the 
**Wahlenburg,"  and  the  "Wekmund,"  and  collectively 
as  the  ''Drei  Exen."  Like  all  fetes  in  Alsace,  this 
**Mestig,"  so  called,  began  with  a  banquet  at  the  inn,  and, 
we  were  told,  one  in  almost  every  large  household.  At 
the  inn  table,  which  was  crowded,  we  had  difficulty  in  get- 
ting seats,  but  at  length  room  for  us  was  good-humoredly 
made  by  the  already  crowded  holiday  folk.  There  was 
noodle  soup  in  plenty,  which  was  noisily  consumed,  rab- 
bit and  hare  stuffed  with  pudding,  and  an  enormous  roast 

126 


COLMAR 

of  pork,  which  was  carved  by  mine  host  at  a  side  table. 
There  were  many  family  reunions,  and  cousins  and 
friends  of  the  villages  kissed  and  embraced  each  other 
in  unaffected  heartiness.  Many  of  the  villagers  wore 
archaic  and  amusing  costumes,  were  generally  burdened 
with  large  baskets,  and  the  elders  were  armed  with  large 
horn-handled  umbrellas  of  various  faded  tones  of  green 
and  brown  cotton,  evidently  treasured  heirlooms.  Ad- 
vantageously placed  at  the  windows  of  the  second  floor 
front  salon  of  the  inn,  which  overlooked  the  small  "place 
d*armes,"  we  watched  the  preparations  at  ease.  It  is  said 
that  officially  no  fete  can  begin  until  the  gendarme  gives 
the  word.  That  word  cannot  be  given,  understand,  un- 
til he  is  satisfied  by  examination  that  the  German  flag  is 
properly  displayed  according  to  the  law  as  set  forth  in 
his  little  glazed  black  oilcloth-covered  manual,  which  he 
carries  in  his  belt.  That  German  flag,  he  must  see  per- 
sonally, is  to  be  hoisted  to  its  place  above  all  others.  He 
must  see  to  it,  too,  that  no  tri-color  of  France  is  visible 
anywhere.  He  must  assure  himself  that  no  toy  balloons 
bearing  the  prescribed  tri-color  are  on  sale  at  any  booth, 
nor  must  there  be  any  gingerbread  cakes  bearing  the  blue, 
white  and  red  colors  of  France  exposed  for  sale  during 
the  fete.  It  may  seem  incredible  to  the  tourist,  but  Ger- 
many was  said  to  be  in  great  danger,  and  should  any  of 
these  rules  be  ignored  no  one  knows  what  would  happen. 
The  danger  is,  that  in  spite  of  the  great  line  of  forts 

127 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

armed  with  monster  Krupp  cannon,  which  guard  Alsace- 
Lorraine  from  France;  in  spite  of  the  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  German  soldiers  that  occupy  the  lost  provinces, 
should  any  of  these  rules  be  disregarded  by  the  gendarme 
who  is  stalking  solemnly  from  booth  to  booth  in  the 
square  under  our  eyes,  in  performance  of  his  duty  to  the 
Fatherland,  the  country  might  be  lost  to  Germany — so 
untrustworthy  were  these  people !  And  all  through  the 
act  of  one  small  boy  blowing  a  blast  on  a  small  ginger- 
bread whistle  bearing  the  surreptitiously  blazoned  tri- 
color in  blue,  red  and  white  sugar  I 

But  the  gendarme  finds  all  in  order,  and  gives  the  word 
to  the  leader  of  the  town  band,  who  is  most  anxiously 
awaiting  it.  This  band  of  eight,  carrying  severally  a 
bass  drum;  a  snare  ditto;  a  large  brass  (battered)  horn; 
a  trombone  ditto;  a  fife;  a  bagpipe;  a  cornet,  and  a  chime 
of  bells  on  a  pole,  preceded  a  long  procession  of  per- 
sonages in  archaic  costume,  each  wearing  upon  the  breast 
of  his  long-tailed  black  frock  coat  several  medals  dang- 
ling from  red  and  green  ribbons.  These  were  followed  by 
some  men  who,  we  were  told,  were  to  wrestle  for  prizes 
given  by  the  authorities  each  year. 

Upon  the  steps  of  the  town  hall  stood  M.  the  Mayor 
in  a  tall  silk  hat  and  full  evening  dress,  wearing  his  sash 
of  office  across  his  breast.  To  him  proceeded  a  young 
girl  dressed  all  in  white  and  wearing  a  beribboned  head- 
dress.    With  a  pretty  curtsey,  she  gave  him  a  cake, 

128 


COLMAR 

wrapped  in  scalloped  white  paper,  and  received  from 
him  a  kiss  upon  each  cheek.  The  leader  of  the  band  now 
raised  his  baton;  there  came  a  blare  of  sound  and  rattle 
of  drum,  and  the  fete  (or  Mestig)  was  formally  pro- 
nounced open.  The  band,  vying  with  each  other  as  to 
which  should  make  the  loudest  discord,  made  a  tour  of 
the  square.  The  wrestlers  wrestled  barefooted  on  a 
space  railed  off  near  the  fountain ;  the  local  fire  company, 
in  brass  helmets  and  horsehair  plumes,  dragging  an  ab- 
surd red  pump,  trundling  noisily  on  four  small  iron 
wheels,  marched  and  countermarched  beneath  our  win- 
dows until  we  applauded  them;  and  everyone  ate  spiced 
cakes  and  drank  all  the  wine  they  could  hold,  all  the 
afternoon.  At  night  there  was  to  be  a  grand  ball,  but 
we  did  not  stay  to  see  it.  This  was  a  real  and  t5^pical 
Mestig,  so  the  inn-keeper  said,  and  he  added  that  we 
"might  voyage  throughout  Alsace-Lorraine  and  not  see 
one  so  good,"  and  in  truth  he  was  right,  we  never  did. 

We  were  told  of  another  fete  which  is  celebrated  in 
Alsace  during  the  month  of  January  of  each  year.  This 
is  called  the  fete  of  the  Emperor,  and  the  crown  officer 
of  each  village  vies  with  the  neighboring  one  as  to  which 
shall  make  the  most  patriotic  display  on  that  occasion. 
There  is,  to  begin  with,  it  appears,  the  singing  of  the  Em- 
peror's hymn ;  then  the  "Wacht  am  Rhein,"  and  to  finish, 
a  most  tiresome  discourse,  setting  forth  the  virtues  and 
greatness  of  the  Emperor,  at  the  end  of  which  the  lis- 

129 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

teners  are  expected  to  shout  loudly,  "HochI"  "But," 
said  my  informant  with  a  wink,  "the  little  ones  have 
learned  to  open  their  mouths  wide  without  making  one 
sound  I"  This  shows  how  the  people  love  the  conquerors 
— how  loyal  they  are  to  them,  how  brave  the  people, 
young  and  old,  are  in  the  face  of  the  enemy  who  occupies 
their  beloved  land. 

For  the  Alsatians,  the  fete  they  love  best  is  that  of  the 
14th  of  July —  the  national  fete  of  their  own  France. 
This  they  celebrate  with  all  their  hearts  and  souls  in 
every  hamlet,  village,  town  and  city  throughout  the  land 
— but  In  silence — until  they  reach  the  town  of  Nancy, 
over  the  border.  On  that  day,  from  early  dawn,  all  the 
roads  leading  across  the  frontier  are  crowded  with  the 
faithful,  journeying  there  in  all  kinds  of  vehicles,  and 
some  even  on  foot,  with  one  common  goal,  one  purpose 
in  mind,  to  reach  Nancy  for  the  fete.  For  this  they 
screw  and  toil  and  pinch  throughout  the  year,  but  they 
consider  the  money  well  spent.  .  .  . 

But  to  return  to  Colmar,  with  which  we  were  occupied 
for  several  days  most  delightfully. 

The  town  contains  many  monuments,  in  which  the  his- 
tory of  the  whole  region  has  been  written.  The  museum, 
for  instance,  not  because  of  its  pictures,  or  its  treasures 
of  illuminated  books,  but  because  of  its  own  artistic 
glory.  This  ancient  structure,  which  includes  a  church, 
a  cloister,  and  the  conventual  buildings,  was  formerly  the 

130 


/ 


COLMAR 

Dominican  convent,  all  of  the  thirteenth  century — a 
vast  quadrilateral  structure  with  upright  ogival  win- 
dows. Beside  it,  the  theatre  occupies  the  emplacement 
of  the  hostelry. 

The  convent,  the  most  illustrious  among  all  those  in 
Colmar,  is  that  called  the  "Unterlinden,"  built  by  two 
pious  widows,  Agnes  de  Hergenheim  and  Agnes  de  Mit- 
telhelm  in  1232.  Later  it  was  enlarged  and  transferred, 
under  the  rule  of  Saint  Augustin,  and  called  ''Uf  Muh- 
len."  After  the  pillage  it  passed  to  the  property  of 
Saint  Dominique.  There  were,  it  seems,  eight  nuns  to 
inhabit  it,  all  coming  from  humble  families  in  the  neigh- 
boring villages.  "Very  soon,"  says  the  chronicle,  "their 
piety,  their  zeal,  the  sufferings  which  they  bore,  reduced 
them  to  docile  spirits,  to  whom  were  granted  visions  and 
ecstasies,  which  made  them  famous  throughout  the  land." 
In  the  annals  of  mysticism  they  held  first  place.  One 
cannot  read  without  profound  emotion  the  book  of  Cath- 
erine Guebwiller,  "Flame  of  Sanctity,"  telling  how  she 
entered  the  convent  at  the  tender  age  of  ten,  and  wrote 
for  seventy  years  the  lives  of  the  first  sisters.  This 
manuscript,  the  original  of  which  is  the  property  of  the 
Library  of  Bale,  expresses  in  mystic  language  the  rules  of 
the  order,  and  the  letters  addressed  by  the  Savant  Dom 
Pitre  to  Pere  Lacordaire.  And  with  what  enchantment 
did  she  evoke  the  spirit  of  the  life  she  led  there. 

"The  letters  set  before  us  vividly  the  picture  of  the 

131 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

regular  promenade  held  daily  by  the  visionaries  as  they 
paced  the  dim  galleries,  two  by  two,  now  appearing  in 
some  chance  golden  sunbeam,  only  to  vanish  among  the 
vines  and  shadows  of  the  arcade.  They  were  clad  in 
robes  of  thick  white  cloth,  and  wore  upon  their  meekly 
inclined  heads  long  black  veils.  They  saw  visions,  these 
gentle  women.  Elizabeth  of  Lennheim  'beheld  a  great 
white  light'  as  she  prayed,  and  though  ignorant,  found 
afterwards  that  she  could  'read  fluently  the  words  of 
the  Bible.'  Margaret  of  Colmar  saw,  on  the  day  of  the 
Pentecost,  as  she  was  chanting  the  'Veni  Creator,'  a  daz- 
zling celestial  fire  burning.  Gertrude  de  Reinfelden 
and  the  Lady  Adelaide  d'Epfig  were  exhorted  on  their 
death  beds  by  an  angel.  For  Agnes  de  Hergenheim,  the 
songs  of  birds,  the  hum  of  insects,  the  thousand  and  one 
noises  of  nature,  seemed  a  hymn  of  praise  offered  to  the 
Deity.  She  said :  'To  me  the  blooming  rose  seems  the 
image  of  ardent  and  chaste  love,  as  the  lily  typifies  inno- 
cence.' .  .  ,  Thus  these  holy  women  lived  within  these 
cloisters  until  the  Revolution  put  an  end  to  their  visions 
and  ecstasies.  The  convent  was  closed,  and  the  sisters 
scattered.  The  last  of  them  is  said  to  have  died  at  the 
age  of  eighty-seven  in  1855.  When  Pere  Lacordaire 
came  to  Strassburg  as  preacher  he  hastened  to  the  bedside 
of  the  sister  Henriette  Spiess,  who  was  even  then  passing 
away.     'He  wished  to  behold  with  his  own  eyes,'  says  M. 

132 


COLMAR 

Paul  Acker  in  his  charming  chronicle/  'one  of  these  "mys- 
tic flowers"  whose  perfume  had  embalmed  all  Christian 
Europe.'  " 

These  old  walls  to-day  enclose  all  that  is  left  of  the 
former  treasures  of  the  art  of  Colmar,  and  the  custode 
was  delighted  to  show  us  the  ancient  seats ;  the  portraits 
of  the  stolid-looking  presidents  of  the  sovereign  council ; 
the  rusty  old  battle-axes  and  halberds,  and  the  battle  flags 
of  the  town.  We  were  more  interested  perhaps  in  the 
sword  of  General  Rapp,  the  defender  of  Dantzig,  and 
the  last  French  flag  that  flew  over  Colmar  when  the  Ger- 
mans violated  the  place  in  1871.  The  old  custode  re- 
garded me  narrowly  as  he  pointed  it  out,  and  when  I 
saluted  it,  removing  my  hat,  tears  rose  in  his  eyes. 
Brushing  them  away,  he  laid  his  right  hand  upon  his 
heart,  backed  away  from  me,  brought  his  heels  together 
with  a  click,  and  saluted  with  all  the  manner  of  a  grena- 
dier of  the  Guard. 

In  the  old  parish  church  we  found  an  admirable  paint- 
ing of  the  Virgin  "Madonna  in  an  Arbor  of  Roses,"  and 
a  "terrific"  crucifixion  by  Mathias  Grunewald,  which 
was  formerly  over  the  great  altar  of  the  church  of  the 
Antonites  at  Isenheim.  This  was  the  masterpiece  of  the 
painter,  who  was  renowned  as  the  chief  Rhenish  artist 
painter  of  the  sixteenth  century,  and  who  worked  mainly 

^  "Colmar,"  par  Paul  Acker.     Paris. 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

at  Mayence  and  Aschaffenburg.  This  painting  was  the 
chief  treasure  of  the  old  abbey  church.  "Nothing,"  says 
an  eminent  critic,  "can  surpass  the  sentiment  of  horror 
aroused  by  the  presentment  of  the  'Great  Tragedy.' 
The  livid  figure  of  the  Christ  against  the  starring  sky; 
the  drooping  head;  the  clenched  hands  .  .  .  the  work 
of  an  extraordinary  realist  and  colorist.*' 

There  were  also  numerous  panels,  the  work  of  Martin 
Schongauer,  he  whom  the  French  call  "le  beau  Martin," 
who  was  born  in  Colmar,  probably  about  1480.  It  is 
said  that  Albert  Diirer  learned  from  Schongauer,  "who 
invented  it,"  the  art  of  drawing  and  engraving  on  wood. 
Long  after  the  latter's  death,  it  is  said  the  German  artists 
of  the  period  of  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  centuries 
copied  his  mannerisms  and  his  pictures.  At  any  rate,  he 
gave  to  the  town  its  crown  of  art  in  the  series  of  panels  in 
this  old  church  hidden  away  in  Alsace. 

Colmar  is  certainly  a  most  charming  spot  in  which  to 
tarry;  each  day  brought  forth  some  pleasant  experience 
among  the  people.  When  one  thinks  of  it,  it  is  as  a 
small  corner  of  earth,  fragrant  with  memories  of  a 
glorious  past  and  quite  untouched  by  those  modern  Ger- 
man architects  who  have  laid  profane  hands  upon  well 
nigh  every  other  town  in  the  province.  As  it  is,  it 
presents  an  image  of  great  charm  and  character. 

The  present  writer  is  conscious  of  his  inability  to  ren- 
der in  a  manner  satisfactory  to  himself  his  impressions 

134 


COLMAR 

of  what  he  has  seen,  for  the  abundance  of  matter  is  almost 
overwhelming  after  journeying  over  these  lovely  wind- 
ing roads,  along  the  tree  bordered  streams,  each  place  re- 
peating its  charms,  "like  the  successive  states  of  an  etched 
plate,"  to  borrow  one  of  Miss  Wharton's  artistic  similes. 
The  road  widens  here  and  there,  and  as  often  contracts, 
leaving  the  stream  now  and  then  to  run  along  beneath 
frowning  crags,  beyond  which  the  river  again  appears 
coquettishly  sparkling  behind  fringes  of  old  gray  willow 
trees  that  bend  thirstily  over  it.  Long  shadows  are  steal- 
ing down  the  sides  of  the  tree-clad  hills,  and  again  the 
singing  river  shows,  now  golden  in  the  sunbeams.  Our 
driver,  who  had  lapsed  into  silence,  now  turned  round  on 
his  seat  and  pointed  with  his  whip. 

"See  there,  Monsieur  and  Madame" — he  was  pointing 
to  an  enormous  dark,  bare  rock  on  the  right  hand,  tower- 
ing high  in  the  air — "Via  Roche  aux  Corbeaux."  He 
cracked  his  whip  skilfully  and  loudly,  and  a  black  crowd 
of  crows  rose  from  the  rock;  there  must  have  been  hun- 
dreds of  the  noisy  cawing  creatures,  which  careered 
about  for  some  moments  before  settling  once  more  on  the 
rock.  Our  driver  looked  as  if  he  expected  to  be  rewarded 
for  this  entertainment,  and  "clicked"  up  the  old  horse 
with  a  smile  of  triumph.  He  seemed  disappointed  and 
puzzled  when  we  talked  of  the  delicious  green  of  the 
meadow  below  with  the  dancing  river,  and  the  banks  all 
purple  with  early  autumn  crocus.     Here  we  got  out  and 

135 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

dallied  for  a  while,  climbing  the  wooded  hillside  and 
gathering  the  rich  treasures  of  Gueldres  rose  berries  of 
every  exquisite  tint  growing  here  in  fresh  beauty. 

In  a  hollow  on  the  left  was  a  half -ruined  mill.  The 
cliff  rose  abruptly  behind  it,  thickly  wooded.  The  mill 
seemed  niched  in  its  dark  deserted  corner,  and  a  fine  white 
mist  that  rose  from  the  rushing  deep  water  clung  about 
the  thatch  of  the  lonely  house.  We  asked  if  any  one 
lived  there.  Our  driver  shook  his  head,  looking  serious. 
*'Ma  foi,  no,"  said  he,  "I  should  think  not,  it  has  been 
empty  since  I  was  a  young  lad."  "What  happened  to 
the  people'?"  Lady  Anne  asked,  scenting  a  story. 
**Heh,  Madame'? — Well,  he  speculated  and  ruined  him- 
self. Then  he  died,  and  voila!  his  wife  died  too."  He 
touched  up  the  old  horse  with  the  whip  and  drove  along 
as  if  he  thought  that  we  should  be  satisfied  with  this 
statement,  but  Lady  Anne's  interest  was  not  nearly 
quieted. 

"But,"  said  she,  "it  looks  like  a  good  spot  for  mill 
business.  Why  is  it  empty — why  did  not  some  one  take 
it  after  they  died?' 

"Ah,  bah  I  so  they  did,  one  or  two,  you  understand. 
But  no  one  stays  there,  and,  you  see,  it  is  going  fast  to 
ruin.     Seems  as  if  a  curse  was  on  it." 

We  looked  at  one  another;  there  was  certainly  a  ghost 
at  the  bottom  of  this  story.     "Come  now,"  I  said,  feel- 

136 


COLMAR 

ingly,  "is  the  mill  haunted*?     Perhaps  there  is  some  evil 
spirit  that  frightens  the  people  away." 

He  laughed — a  hearty  guffaw;  then  he  turned  round 
upon  us,  giving  a  keen  look  to  see  if  I  was  in  earnest. 
"Ma  foi,  Monsieur  and  Madame,"  he  cried,  "there  may 
be  a  ghost  for  all  I  know;  but  if  there  is,  'tis  the  ghost 
called  lack  o'  money'  that  keeps  people  away  from  such 
a  tumble-down  old  place" — and  then  he  busied  himself 
with  the  reins,  and  would  say  no  more.  But  Lady  Anne 
says  that  she  is  sure  that  there  is  a  story  connected  with 
the  old  mill,  and  that  if  I  had  not  been  so  persistent  about 
the  matter,  had  been  a  trifle  less  insistent  with  him,  that 
he  might  have  told  us,  for  the  peasant  is  ever  wary  of 
what  he  calls  ''blague^  at  the  least  hint  of  which  he 
shuts  up  like  the  proverbial  clam. 


137 


WstVv«m^i 


^■^HE  traveler  who  confines  himself  to  the  larger 
■  U  towns  rarely  becomes  familiar  with  the  real  char- 
^■^  acteristics  of  the  people.  It  is  necessary  to  go  out 
into  the  country  and  live  for  a  while  among  the  farmers, 
who  are  glad  to  welcome  the  stranger,  who  can  assure 
them  that  he  is  willing  to  conform  to  their  way  of  living, 
and  so  to  say  "take  pot  luck."  Rarely  will  he  suffer  in 
consequence,  be  it  urged,  for  the  very  best  in  the  house 
is  at  his  command.  The  beds  are  clean  and  good,  and 
the  food,  though  simple,  is  the  same,  and  all  for  almost 
whatever  one  chooses  to  pay,  while  the  good-will  and  hos- 
pitality of  the  farmers  of  Alsace-Lorraine  are  proverbial. 
Here  within  a  few  miles  of  Colmar  is  a  region  filled 
with  interest  and  charm;  of  legend  and  antiquity;  and  if 
one  is  not  interested  in  these,  there  is  the  practical  side 
of  vine  culture,  and  the  gathering  and  pressing  of  the 
grape  to  be  witnessed  in  all  its  perfection.  The  valley 
of  the  Rheingau,  of  course,  produces  the  very  finest  of  the 
wines,  but  here  in  the  Sundgau  grapes  are  grown,  with 
which  experts  are  well  content.     The  delicious  white 

141 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

wines,  pressed  from  the  fragrant  grapes  grown  upon  the 
sunny  slopes  in  the  neighborhood,  can,  in  the  opinion  of 
experts,  successfully  compete  in  quality  with  any  other 
produced.  The  great  Liebig  affirmed  that  the  exquisite 
bouquet  of  the  white  wines  is  owing  to  the  free  acid 
which  they  contain,  and  that  certain  of  their  most  salu- 
tary properties  arise  from  the  percentage  of  tartar  pres- 
ent in  them.  Another  great  advantage  is  the  almost 
total  absence  of  brandy,  an  ingredient  invariably  found 
in  the  wines  of  Spain  and  Sicily,  which  is  said  to  be  so  in- 
jurious both  to  the  flavor  of  the  wine  and  the  health  of 
the  drinker.  It  is  said  by  competent  authorities  that 
these  so  called  Rhine  wines  often  retain  their  bouquet 
and  excellence  for  a  half  century,  although  they  rarely 
contain  more  than  nine  per  cent,  of  alcohol.  The  Still 
Hoch  or  the  Moselle  is  wine  highly  recommended  by  the 
people,  and  is  to  be  had  in  perfection  at  the  cost  of  three 
or  four  marks  a  bottle.  The  Moselle  wines  are  chiefly 
grown  amidst  wild  rugged  fields  and  sterile  seeming 
slaty  rock,  and  are  distinguished  by  their  extraordinarily 
delicate,  aromatic  flavor.  The  best  of  these  are  "Bern- 
castler  Doctor,"  "Brauneberger,"  and  "Ohligsberger." 
These  wines  are  largely  consumed  in  their  several  dis- 
tricts. The  yield  is  said  to  be  by  no  means  uniformly 
excellent,  for  climatic  conditions  are  not  the  same 
throughout  the  region.  The  vineyards  in  the  most 
favored  positions,  where  the  grapes  ripen  soonest,  often, 

142 


THE  VINEYARDS 

so  it  is  said,  suffer  the  most  severely  from  the  heavy  early 
spring  frosts.  In  a  good  season,  or  what  the  growers  call 
a  good  ''full  autumn,"  rarely  attained,  a  "Morgen,"  that 
is,  about  three-fifths  of  an  acre  of  land,  planted  with 
three  or  four  thousand  vines,  is  expected  to  yield  five 
''Ohm,"  or  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of  wine. 
I  had  many  of  these  details  and  technical  terms  from  a 
little  book  written  by  the  French  author,  Andre  Theuriet, 
else  I  should  not  have  known  how  to  describe  them. 

The  whole  population  of  the  countryside,  men  and 
women,  are  busy  in  the  vineyards  from  early  morn  to 
dark,  and  the  scene  is  most  entertaining  and  informing. 
Our  host  was  a  master  cooper,  with  a  very  considerable 
trade,  a  rather  melancholy,  absorbed  man,  with  a  bulbous 
nose  "all  limned  by  libidinousness"  into  a  network  of  fine 
red  veins.  His  trade,  it  may  be  urged,  had  too  much 
and  too  intimate  a  relation  with  the  seductive  juice  of 
the  grape  for  him  not  to  have  a  weakness  for  the  "Soup 
of  September,"  as  it  is  sometimes  called  by  the  natives, 
in  M.  Theuriet's  book,  who  relates  of  a  wine  grower: 
"To  him  came  the  care  of  many  a  customer's  product,  so 
quite  naturally  he  had  become  a  wine  taster  of  consid- 
erable reputation.  With  the  years  his  taste  had  refined, 
and  in  my  mind's  eye  I  can  see  him  pour  out  a  few  drops 
of  wine  into  a  tall  narrow  glass  and,  sipping  it  with 
closed  eyes,  tell  not  only  the  date  of  its  making,  but  the 
particular  vineyard  which  produced  it.     Of  his  skill  the 

143 


Alsace-Lorraine 

following  little  story  is  told.  Called  to  give  his  opinion 
of  a  certain  wine,  he  said,  after  tasting  it,  'This  is  good, 
but  it  has  been  in  contact  with  iron  and  leather.'  The 
grower  was  astonished,  indignant,  and  denied  that  it  had 
ever  been  out  of  the  cask  before,  but  lo,  says  the  story, 
Vhen  the  butt  was  empty,  they  found  in  the  bottom  a 
small  piece  of  leather  in  which  was  an  iron  nail !'  "  And 
thus  this  man's  fame  spread  over  the  country  side. 

In  September  the  vine  god  grants  his  gifts  of  splendid 
ripe  days  and  nights  of  radiance.  From  the  slopes  above 
the  busy  vineyards,  one  inhales  the  fragrance  of  the 
growing  grapes,  and  scans  the  golden  hillsides  and  the 
dim  valleys  with  appreciative  eyes.  Over  all  the  warm 
sun  shines,  gilding  the  roofs  and  spires,  and  bringing 
forth  tender  shadows  among  the  trees.  As  the  peasants 
say,  poetically,  for  the  peasants  are  poetic,  although  they 
do  not  know  it,  "The  Virgin  unwinds  her  distaff  and 
spreads  the  golden  threads  over  Alsace."  Through  the 
air,  as  clear  as  crystal,  the  workers  can  be  heard  calling 
to  each  other  from  hill  to  hill.  Some  of  the  badinage  is 
coarse  and  the  jests  are  often  very  unseemly,  but  you  must 
remember  that  this  very  coarseness  is  a  necessary  part  of 
the  peasant's  make  up.  He  does  not  know  that  he  is 
coarse  or  that  his  talk  is  unseemly.  He  thinks  that  he  is 
witty,  and  nothing  delights  him  more  than  that  one 
should  reprove  him  for  some  bit  of  repartee.     This  he 

144 


THE  VINEYARDS 

will  dwell  upon  for  days  thereafter,  as  proof  of  his  bril- 
liancy. 

In  the  noonday  sun  the  vineyards  olaze  in  the  trans- 
parent haze  rising  from  the  moist  furrows  of  newly- 
plowed  fields,  where  the  laborers  are  toiling.  These  are 
called  "vintagers,"  both  men  and  women.  They  are, 
as  a  rule,  hired  by  the  week,  and  thus  paid.  They  are 
from  the  country  round,  each  squad,  one  is  told,  keeping 
to  itself  clannishly  under  an  elected  leader.  The 
women  are,  as  a  rule,  brawny  and  rarely  pretty.  They 
dress  in  short  skirts  or  petticoats  of  gaily  printed  calico, 
and  wear  bodices  and  jackets  of  vivid  colors.  On  their 
heads  are  short  veils,  or  kerchiefs  tied  behind  at  the  nape 
of  the  neck.  Each  woman  carries  an  osier  basket,  in 
which  she  drops  the  fragrant  grapes  as  she  cuts  them 
from  the  vine  with  a  sharp  bill-hook. 

The  married  and  unmarried  are  lodged  in  separate 
sheds,  and  furnished  with  coarse  food  by  the  proprietor. 
I  was  told  that  they  earned  thirty  sous  a  day.  For  this 
meagre  sum  they  toil  from  dawn  to  dark,  but  they  are 
content  and  cheerful,  although  should  you  question  one 
of  them,  at  once,  after  the  custom  of  the  peasant  under 
all  circumstances,  she  will  grumble  and  bewail  her  lot, 
and  curse  the  rich  proprietor  who  fattens  upon  the  result 
.of  her  toil. 

In  spite  of  this,  the  peasants  look  upon  this  work  as 

145 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

an  agreeable  change  from  their  other  toil.  At  early 
dawn  they  are  awakened  by  the  call  of  the  *'Bellonier," 
he  who  carries  the  grapes  to  the  wine  press  in  a  large  tub 
called  a  "Bellon."  The  half-asleep  men  and  women 
vintagers  gather  in  the  court  with  their  baskets  under 
their  arms,  some  of  them  yawning  and  rubbing  their 
eyes.  One  of  the  number  with  a  good  voice  acts  as 
singer,  and  bellows  out  one  of  the  vintage  songs,  of  which 
there  are  many.  One  had  a  chorus  which  ran  something 
as  follows : 

"Aller  au  vendage 

Pour  gagner  dix  sous 
Coucher  sur  la  paille 

Ramasser  des  poux, 
Chante  et  danse 

Toute  comme  un  fou." 

In  the  early  morning  hours,  ere  the  sun  has  gotten  its 
full  power,  the  best  work  is  done,  and  the  peasants  per- 
form their  tasks  with  astonishing  skill  and  energy.  They 
form  in  long  lines,  proceeding  rapidly,  stripping  each 
vine  of  its  bunches,  which  they  drop  in  their  baskets. 
These  filled,  they  are  emptied  into  large  hampers,  which 
are  held  up  by  poles  stuck  in  the  ground.  When  the 
hamper  is  filled  the  carrier  who  attends  it  lifts  it  to  his 
back  and  trots  down  the  hillside  to  the  "Bellon,"  which 
is  ready  to  receive  it  to  transport  it  to  the  great  wagons 
standing  under  the  shade  of  the  trees.  At  one  side  are 
tethered  the  large,  heavy  bodied,  hairy-legged  horses,  and 

146 


THE  VINEYARDS 

hanging  from  the  branches  of  the  trees  are  the  harnesses, 
all  brass-mounted.  The  large  collars  of  leather-cov- 
ered wood  are  decorated  with  tassels  and  heavy  cushions 
and  stuffings  of  bright  scarlet  and  pale  blue  wool.  The 
scene  is  one  of  considerable  picturesqueness.  Imagine 
the  feeding  horses  in  the  shadows,  switching  their  tails 
at  the  flies;  a  laughing  group  of  gaily-clad  peasant  girls 
coquetting  with  some  of  the  young  gallants.  Where  the 
sunbeams  fall  is  a  tall  peasant,  bareheaded,  brown 
skinned,  his  loose  blouse  of  brown  linen  open  at  the 
neck,  showing  the  splendid  development  of  muscles, 
pouring  a  stream  of  golden  yellow  grapes  out  of  his  bas- 
ket into  the  wagon.  Down  through  the  thick,  heavy 
foliage  shines  the  sun  in  dusty  beams  of  golden  light 
upon  his  ruddy  face,  neck  and  bare  arms.  All  about  is 
ceaseless  activity  and  animation,  and  over  all  is  the 
strong,  sweet  odor  of  rich  ripe  grapes. 

At  the  end  of  the  day,  when  in  the  valleys  the  pale 
white  mists  form  above  the  beds  of  the  small  streams, 
and  the  upper  slopes  swim  in  a  hazy,  warm  glow  from  the 
final  gleam  of  the  departed  sun,  the  word  is  given,  and 
the  "Bellonier,"  all  bedecked  with  a  green  branch  and 
surrounded  by  young  girls,  arm  in  arm,  and  followed  by 
the  hamper  carriers  and  the  cutters,  descend  the  slope  to 
the  wagons,  which  are  already  in  motion.  Then  home- 
ward along  the  dim  shady  roads  they  take  their  way, 
singing  the  sweet,  tender  songs  so  dear  to  the  peasants  of 

H7 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

the  lost  province.     Can  I  make  you  see  the  picture  as  I 
see  it? 

Approaching  the  "Pressoir,"  where  the  grapes  are 
pressed,  they  give  loud  calls,  at  which  the  great  double 
doors  are  swung  wide  open,  and  the  inside  of  the  build- 
ing, its  roof  supported  by  huge  oaken  beams,  and  fitted 
with  immense  round  tubs,  is  plainly  seen,  and  there,  at 
the  far  end,  around  which  strange  figures  appear  mis- 
shapen in  the  flickering  ruddy  light  of  the  large  lanterns, 
is  the  brobdingnagian  structure  of  the  wine  press,  its 
beams  all  shining  and  dripping  with  the  "must."  Into 
its  capacious  maw  is  dumped  the  fragrant  contents  of  the 
"Bellons."  Round  and  round  goes  the  great  dripping 
beam,  drawn  by  two  huge  hollow-backed  horses  in  gaily- 
decked  collars. — Round  and  round — to  the  sound  of  the 
women's  roundelays,  one  of  which,  and  a  very  popular 
one,  goes  something  as  follows : 

'The  day  is  gone,  and  now  its  sweets 
Shall  come.     To  thee,  dear  heart, 

To  thee,  dear  heart. 
Sweet  voice  of  thine ;  sweet  lips  and  starry  eyes ; 
Come,  let  us  clasp,  and  never,  never  part,  dear  heart, 
And  never,  never  part." 

and  then  the  chorus : 

"From  thee,  dear  heart, 
I'll  never,  never  part." 

It  lingers  in  one's  memory  with  something  of  painful  in- 

148 


\r 


THE  VINEYARDS 

sistence.  The  fragrant  odor  of  new  sweet  wine  exhales 
from  the  press.  The  whole  place  is  saturated  with  it. 
Every  cellar  is  filled  with  huge  fat  round-bellied  casks, 
every  gutter  runs  with  the  lees  of  wine.  At  night  these 
small  villages  are  filled  with  noisy  laughter,  and  rather 
rough  gaiety  for  these  people  who  work  so  hard  during 
the  day  must  have  their  pleasures  before  midnight,  when 
the  local  gendarme  solemnly  bids  the  cafes  to  close,  and 
the  workers  to  take  themselves  off  to  their  straw  heaps 
for  the  night.  But  until  this  hour  yellow  lights  gleam 
and  flicker  in  the  windows  of  the  houses,  while  from  press 
to  press  are  lines  of  large  swinging  oil  lanterns  hung 
overhead,  lighting  up  the  narrow  lanes,  with  strange 
staggering,  shifting,  drunken  shadows  as  the  lanterns 
swing  in  the  night  air,  and  the  long  lines  of  heavily  laden 
wagons  come  in  from  the  distant  vineyards. 

The  scene  at  suppertime  in  one  of  the  large  kitchens  is 
an  animated  one.  In  the  center  is  a  long  oaken  table, 
lighted  by  kerosene  oil  lamps  hanging  from  the  white- 
washed beams  overhead.  This  table  can  seat  as  many  as 
thirty  at  one  time.  The  supper  is  of  vegetable  soup, 
very  greasy,  but  savory  and  good,  and  there  is  plenty  of 
dark  bread  and  potatoes.  The  meat  is  generally  salt 
pork,  of  which  the  peasant  is  inordinately  fond.  Some- 
times a  coarse,  poor  cheese  is  included,  but  not  often.  Of 
sweets  there  are  none,  but  there  is,  of  course,  plenty  of 
thin,  watery  wine  provided,  usually  the  second  or  third 

149 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

squeezing  of  the  grape.  The  peasants  feed  noisily,  and 
do  full  justice  to  the  provender. 

Supper  over,  they  have  just  one  desire — to  dance.  In 
each  community  is  one  large  barn  floor  set  apart  for  this 
purpose,  and  here  both  sexes  caper  and  waltz  or  polka, 
until  they  well  nigh  drop  with  fatigue.  Often,  'tis  said, 
these  affairs  degenerate  into  orgies  and  quarrels,  accom- 
panied with  the  inevitable  results.  But  it  is  very  amus- 
ing to  slip  into  a  shadowed  corner  and  from  there  watch 
one  of  these  dances.  At  one  side,  upon  a  large  upturned 
wine  cask,  is  perched  the  "Jouer."  It  may  be  he  is  a 
fiddler,  or  perchance  a  piper  from  the  town  of  Ferrette. 
At  any  rate  there  he  sits,  and  beside  him  astride  of  a  chair 
or  stool  is  the  dance  master,  calling  out  in  loud  tones  the 
figures  of  the  peasant  dance.  ''Keep  time,  keep  time, 
you,"  he  calls  to  some  unusually  clumsy  swain.  "Where 
are  your  feet,  Henri?  You  look  like  a  duck  in  a  hen 
yard."  And  then  he  will  roar  with  laughter,  clapping 
his  hands  to  the  rhythm  of  the  dance.  The  fiddle 
squeaks  or  the  pipe  drones,  the  dust  from  the  barn 
floor  rises  in  clouds,  and  descends  upon  the  bare  heads 
and  flushed  faces  of  the  young  men  and  women.  There 
is  much  good-natured  jostling,  and  the  noise  of  the 
heavy  iron-shod  clogs  of  the  dancers  is  well  nigh  deafen- 
ing; but  it  is  all  very  dear  to  the  peasants,  and  harmless 
enough,  though  at  times  there  is  considerable  horseplay. 

And  so  the  days  and  nights  of  the  vintage  pass  each 

150 


THE  VINEYARDS 

year  until  the  last  bunch  is  picked  and  pressed,  and  the 
rainy,  dark  days  of  early  November  bring  the  season  to 
an  end.  Then  the  peasants  scatter  to  their  different 
villages  for  the  winter,  and  the  storks  and  cranes  begin  ^ 
to  fly  in  long  lines  toward  the  south,  or  wherever  it  is  they 
nest  in  the  dark  wintry  days. 

In  the  narrow  street  under  our  windows  one  day  was 
an  excited  group,  composed  of  the  proprietor  of  the 
Hotel,  hatless,  red-faced;  a  baker's  boy  in  a  long  blue 
blouse  and  laden  with  two  hampers  of  crisp  brown  loaves 
of  bread ;  a  girl  carrying  a  solemn,  wide-eyed  baby,  and  a 
fat  little  man  with  a  large  saw,  all  gathered  about  the  old 
carriage  in  which  we  had  arrived  a  few  days  before.  On 
the  seat  was  the  driver,  recognizable  by  the  faded  blue 
coat  with  brass  buttons — one  could  see  no  more  of  him 
than  his  knees  and  feet  because  of  the  carriage  top.  We 
speculated  disinterestedly  upon  his  presence  there,  be- 
cause he  had  been  well  paid  for  his  appreciated  services 
and  dismissed,  as  far  as  we  were  concerned. 

But  when  we  went  down  to  the  salon  for  coffee  and 
rolls,  we  were  at  once  summoned  by  the  landlord,  who 
gravely  informed  us  that  the  driver  had  come  for  us,  in- 
sisting that  we  were  to  depart  at  once  upon  our  journey. 
In  vain  was  it  explained  that  we  had  no  such  purpose  in 
view;  that  he  had  been  paid  and  dismissed.  The  pro- 
prietor was  plainly  offended  about  something  or  other, 
and  waved  us  forth  to  the  doorway. 

151 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

The  old  carriage  was  now  surrounded  by  people  who 
had  gathered  to  know  of  the  happening,  whatever  it 
might  be,  for  the  peasant  loves  a  dispute  of  whatever 
nature,  and  apparently  has  unlimited  leisure  in  which  to 
enjoy  it,  more  especially  where  a  foreigner  is  involved. 
They  gave  way  for  me  politely,  and  listened  eagerly 
and  breathlessly  to  my  questions  and  the  answers  of  the 
driver,  who  very  plainly  had,  even  at  that  early  hour,  a 
much  heavier  cargo  of  drink  than  he  could  well  manage. 
In  brief,  he  insisted  that  he  felt  it  his  duty,  his  simple 
duty — understand? — to  Monsieur  and  the  gracious 
Madame  to  look  out  for  their  welfare — to  see  that  their 
journey  was  comfortable  and  safe — trust  him  for  that; 
that  they  should  not  stop  longer  in  Colmar  where — yes, 
he  would  say  it,  and  say  it  truthfully,  too,  in  spite  of  any 
landlord,  no  matter  who  he  might  be — ^he  would  say  it 
even  to  M.  le  Mayor  himself,  as  an  old  soldier,  who  had 
served  loyally  his  country  and  had  his  papers  to  show  it, 
too.  If  this  was  not  believed,  all  they  had  to  do  was  to 
accompany  him  to  his  home  and  there,  over  the  stove, 
hanging  upon  the  wall,  were  those  very  papers  framed  in 
a  good  gilt  frame  to  prove  it.  "Was  not  that  enough? 
Eh,  bien!  Then  why  should  not  his  word  be  taken? 
Had  he  not  a  good  horse,  too?  Was  he  not  well  shod? 
Had  he  not  paid  for  the  shoeing  that  very  week  before  he 
had  the  honor  of  conducting  Monsieur  and  the  gracious 
Madame  on  their  safe  journey?     Then  why  had  the 

152 


THE  VINEYARDS 

landlord  insulted  him  and  attempted  to  keep  him  from 
guarding  the  interests  of  the  distinguished  strangers  who 
had  confided  themselves  to  his  protection?  Would  he 
depart  without  them*?  Would  he  leave  them  to  their 
fate  in  Colmar?  Not  so!  That  never  should  be  said 
against  him — ^never!"  and  he  beat  his  breast  with  his  left 
hand  while  he  waved  and  snapped  his  whip  with  his  right. 
"M'sieur  has  heard,"  said  the  landlord;  "is  it  his  wish 
that  this  man  should  remain?"  I  explained  the  circum- 
stances of  my  agreement  with  the  driver,  and  then  turned 
to  close  the  matter  with  him,  while  the  loiterers  listened 
eagerly,  wagging  their  heads  at  each  other,  and  grinning 
appreciatively.  My  words  seemed  to  convey  no  mean- 
ing whatever  to  the  driver,  who  was  now  gesticulating 
and  nodding  to  the  bystanders.  Endeavoring  to  catch 
his  eye,  I  saw  that  he  was  too  far  gone  for  any  comprehen- 
sion.    Suddenly  he  burst  into  song — roaring  out : 

"O I  donnez  moi  jeunesse, 
mon  blonde — 
O I  donnez  moi  jeunesse  I — 

the  final  words  dwindling  away  in  a  hoarse,  broken  whis- 
per, accompanied  by  copious  tears  and  a  despairing  wave 
of  the  hand  holding  the  whip,  at  which  the  fat  horse 
awoke  and  started  off  so  suddenly  that  the  singer  rolled 
out  of  his  seat  and  would  have  fallen  to  the  pavement 
had  not  a  bystander  caught  him,  while  others  stopped 
the  horse. 

153 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Left  reeling  there  on  the  pavement,  the  driver 
promptly  sat  down  in  the  gutter,  propped  against  a  post, 
and  went  to  sleep.  The  proprietor  sent  for  the  gen- 
darme who,  after  hearing  the  history,  entered  our  names 
in  his  book,  saluted  us,  had  him  bundled  into  the  old  car- 
riage, the  bystanders  took  themselves  off,  and  away  went 
the  old  soldier,  the  fat  horse  and  the  lumbering  old  car- 
riage, out  of  our  ken.  Thereafter  we  thought  best  to 
journey  by  train. 

"Praise  of  the  vintage,*'  said  the  scholarly  wine  grower 
to  whom  I  had  been  introduced  and  with  whom  I  sat  in 
the  lovely  old  garden  behind  the  mossy  wall  that  sur- 
rounded his  chateau  on  the  river  road,  "should  be  uttered 
in  the  musical  rhythm  of  poetry,  which  alone  can  convey 
the  expression,  like  unto  the  most  generous  liquor  pressed 
from  the  fragrant  crushed  grape. 

"How  else,"  he  continued,  "can  one  express  the  whis- 
pering of  the  fermenting;  the  liquid  murmur  of  the  bub- 
bling 'must,'  the  song  of  the  laboring  great  wine  press  as 
the  oaken-bound  beam  swings  around  its  circle  in  the 
cobwebby  gloom,  and  the  all  pervading  bouquet  of  the 
new  running  wine!"  And  then  he  went  on  in  infinite 
detail  of  the  art  of  wine  making,  telling  how  the  sugary 
juice  undergoes  fermentation;  how  and  why  the  grapes 
are  crushed  in  wooden  tubs  at  a  certain  temperature; 
how  the  skins  and  solid  matter  are  removed  by  setting 
free  the  carbonic  acid,  forming  on  the  surface  of  the 

154 


THE  VINEYARDS 

liquid  what  is  called  the  "chapeau"  of  the  vintage;  that 
the  juice  extracted  is  still  very  sweet  and  is  called 
"must" ;  and  that  put  in  strong  casks  it  undergoes  a  sec- 
ond and  slow  fermentation,  at  which  it  arrives  at  the 
period  of  preservation  and  is  fit  for  consuming.  There- 
after he  showed  me  the  mysterious  and  most  picturesque 
spectacle  in  one  of  the  large  "pressoirs"  which  he  owned 
and  operated. 

Sometimes  this  scene  may  be  enjoyed  at  night,  and  this 
is  how  I  saw  it,  sitting  with  him  in  a  corner  of  the  large 
cellar,  beneath  the  great  rafters  and  oaken  beams  of  his 
"pressoir,"  lighted  by  pendent  oil  lanterns,  the  ruddy 
glare  from  which  illuminated  fitfully  the  phantom-like 
figures  of  half  naked  men  passing  to  and  fro,  or  treading 
the  masses  of  grape  in  the  oaken  tubs.  A  most  singular 
low  sort  of  buzzing  or  humming  sound  accompanies  the 
fermentation,  and  in  one's  nostrils  is  a  warm,  most  de- 
licious, and  semi-intoxicating  odor  exhaled  from  the 
crushing.  Into  large,  burnished,  ruddy,  golden  copper 
tubs  spurts  and  drips  the  wondrous  dark  purple  wine, 
flowing  from  the  bed  of  the  immense  press  in  liquid, 
tinkling  song.  In  the  dim  light  of  the  lantern  the  naked 
bodies  of  the  pressers  gleam  as  they  strain  at  the  capstan 
beam  which  controls  the  screw  of  the  press,  while  the 
huge  machine  groans  complainingly,  and  forth  beneath 
pours  the  new  sweet  wine.  Men  called  porters  empty 
the  copper  pans  of  the  "must"  into  strangely-shaped 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

vessels  of  wood  named  "tandelins,"  and  laboriously 
carry  them  below  to  the  cobwebby  cellars  far  beneath. 
Hereabouts  these  cellars  honeycomb  the  hills,  which  they 
penetrate  for  long  distances,  arranged  in  tiers  or  stories 
like  catacombs,  and  the  scene  presents  to  the  imagination 
something  like  an  ancient  religious  rite.  From  them 
come  strange  booming  sounds  and  echoes  as  the  dimly- 
seen  figures  of  the  workmen  come  and  go  about  their 
tasks. 

The  wine  grower  explained  with  great  detail  the  im- 
portance of  the  soil  and  the  climate  in  the  production,  al- 
leging that  the  smallest  change  in  the  fertilization  of  the 
soil  is  sufficient  to  alter  and  even  suppress  the  bouquet  so 
necessary,  rendering  the  product  flat  and  useless.  He 
explained  the  ancient  law  promulgated  by  the  great 
Dukes  of  Lorraine,  forbidding  the  use  of  manure  in  the 
Duchy  under  the  most  severe  penalty,  it  having  been 
proven  that  any  attempt  to  enrich  the  sandy,  stony  hill- 
sides, while  increasing  the  size  and  quantity  of  the  grapes, 
entirely  destroyed  the  strange  variety,  and  the  unique 
and  volatile  bouquet.  Here,  then,  in  these  vast  cata- 
combs hollowed  in  the  "tufa"  are  miles  of  great  casks  of 
still  and  sparkling  wines,  laden  with  the  odors  of  violets 
and  honey,  awaiting  the  days  of  their  emancipation. 

"Here,  then.  Monsieur,"  said  he  enthusiastically,  rais- 
ing his  glass  to  the  light  of  the  overhead  lantern,  "French 
hearts  are  beating  in  patriotism  and  loyalty  to  the 

156 


THE  VINEYARDS 

Mother  Country,  from  which,  through  no  fault  of  ours, 
we  are  separated  by  the  odious  rule  of  the  invader.  Hail 
to  the  day  of  our  release.  Hail  to  the  wines  of  Alsace- 
Lorraine.  If  our  lips  are  silent  over  these  evil  days,  our 
eyes  bespeak  our  unwavering  loyalty  to  France,  our 
hearts  understand. 

"In  the  days  when  the  English  Queen  Mary  Stuart 
came  to  the  castle  of  the  great  Dukes  of  Bar  on  the 
Ornain,  was  it  not  our  wine  of  Alsace  that  delighted  her, 
and  inspired  the  Poet  Ronsard  at  the  banquet  to  recite  in 
her  honor  these  lines : 

"All  things  I  do  embrace 
And  all  things  nourish: 
All  things  my  virtue  wakes  to  flourish : 
Bind  I  all  things,  my  hands  hold  everything. 
Since  this  is  true, — o'er  all  things  rests  my  power, 
I  bade  expand  this  fragrant  perfect  flower. 
To  rule  the  whole  world  over;  this  youthful  King." 

He  related  also  tales  of  the  early  days,  when  at  the  ban- 
quets of  the  ecclesiastics  for  the  visiting  Cardinals  of 
Trent  at  the  time  of  the  Council,  the  dignitaries  pro- 
claimed unanimously  that  the  wines  of  Alsace  were  the 
noblest  and  most  fragrant  of  all.  And  they  drank  to  the 
glory  of  France. 

"And  what  did  you  do  all  the  evening*?"  asked  Lady 
Anne  when  I  returned  to  her  at  the  chateau,  where  we 
were  the  guests  of  the  erudite  and  scholarly  wine  grower 
and  his  lady.     I  related  what  had  happened,  with  all  the 

157 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

detail  and  embroidery  at  my  command,  and  with  con- 
siderable enthusiasm,  too,  I  fancy.  Lady  Anne  heard 
me  with  somewhat  of  a  bored  air,  and  remarked : 

"How  stupid;  and  is  that  all*?  I  cannot  abide  those 
old  gloomy,  spidery  cellars ;  and  as  for  the  wine,  we  had 
some  here  in  the  salon,  and  passed  a  delightful  evening, 
for  Madame  got  out  all  of  her  old  embroidered  linen, 
and  taught  me  the  most  wonderful  and  exquisite 
stitch.  I  never  saw  such  linen !  Dozens  and  dozens  of 
pieces.  .  .  ." 


158 


ir^  J^m  tutii  (Sutstam 


^fpHE  feast  days  are  perhaps  best  studied  in  the  re- 
■  U  mote  villages,  because  in  the  course  of  the  peas- 
^■^  ant's  hard  life  he  has  but  few  days  of  relaxation, 
and  save  for  a. wedding  or  a  funeral  rarely  breaks  away 
his  toil.  So'the  Patron  Saints'  day.is-a  real  occasion 
f oj; hiMkdlli#^|||rr\^  tmf' Incertain oiH^unities where 
the  church  stiir  regulates  the  people's  manners,  i^is^e 
only  day  upon  which -dancing  is  permitted.  Each  djp;^ 
partment  of  France  apparently  has  a  different^ame  for 
this  fete.  In  upper  Alsace  it  is  known  as  the  "Kilbe";^ 
in  the  lower  as  "Mestig" — or  sometimes  Kirb;  in  the 
north  it  is  "Ducasse";  "Rapport"  in  the  east;  "Vogue" 
in  Dauphiny;  "Assemblee"  in  Touraine;  "Ballade"  in 
Poitue;  "Frairie"  in  Saintange  and  Angoumois,  and  the 
"Pardon"  in  Brittany. 

In  Alsace,  however,  the  characteristics  are  quite  dif- 
ferent from  those  obtaining  elsewhere.  Instead  of  hav- 
ing the  dances  in  various  drinking  resorts,  the  young 
people  of  the  remote  villages  elect  one  of  their  number 
best  fitted  for  the  position,  as  organizer.  He  is  thus  the 
"Gargon  d'honneur"  of  the  fete.  As  distinctive  sign  of 
his  position,  he  wears  a  cloak  heavily  embroidered  in  gold 

161 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

lace.  To  him  falls  the  task  of  designing  the  festivities 
and  selecting  the  field  where  the  dancing  platform  is 
erected.  This  is  generally  as  near  as  possible  to  the  local 
inn  or  auberge. 

In  the  remote  towns  on  the  day  of  the  fete,  a  cortege 
preceded  by  the  local  band  of  musicians,  clad  in  their 
archaic  costumes,  and  bearing  at  the  head  the  banner  of 
the  association,  all  decked  with  flowers  and  ribbons,  upon 
which  are  fastened  the  various  medals  and  prizes  which 
it  has  won,  marches  proudly  to  the  house  of  the  Mayor, 
who  receives  the  marchers  in  his  official  sash  of  honor  and 
proclaims  the  fete  open. 

The  organizer  then  presents  a  bouquet  with  one  hand, 
and  a  bottle  of  wine  with  the  other,  to  M.  the  Mayor. 
Then,  turning,  he  offers  his  little  finger  to  the  prettiest 
girl,  generally  selected  beforehand,  and  leading  her  at 
the  head  of  the  procession,  formed  of  both  sexes,  to  the 
dancing  platform,  opens  the  festivities.  In  some  local- 
ities a  ribbon-decked  lamb,  led  by  the  prettiest  girl,  pre- 
cedes the  cortege,  and  this  poor  little  lambkin  is  then 
killed  somewhere  out  of  sight,  and  dressed  for  the  great 
banquet  to  take  place  the  following  day. 

This  procession  stops  before  the  door  of  each  of  the 
local  magistrates  or  authorities,  the  "garqon  d'honneur" 
offering  to  each  a  portion  of  the  great  spice  cake,  which  is 
all  covered  with  icing  and  colored  ribbons;  receives  from 
each  a  gift  in  return,  (generally  a  small  sum  of  money  to 

162 


FETE  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 

defray  expenses),  and  the  fete  proceeds.  I  In  certain  of 
the  villages,  a  masked  figure,  grotesquely  costumed,  is  led 
in  chains,  by  companions  who  take  up  a  collection  from 
the  peasants  as  he  passes  along  the  streets.  One  we  saw 
led  to  the  village  fountain,  and  there  pitched  neck  and 
heels  into  the  basin  amid  the  wildest  shrieks  and  cries 
from  the  crowd,  who  seemed  infuriated  at  the  sight. 
But  when  the  creature  was  drawn  out,  and  his  soaked 
rags  were  stripped  from  him,  he  was  given  the  money 
which  had  been  collected,  and  promptly  disappeared  from 
sight.  This  evidently  is  a  very  old  custom,  the  origin  of 
which  is  lost,  for  no  one  could  satisfactorily  explain  to 
us  what  it  was  all  about.  The  willing  subject  of  this 
strange  attack,  I  afterwards  discovered,  was  a  respectable 
young  farmer  who  lived  in  the  neighborhood. 

The  festivities  continued  throughout  the  day  in  a  ban- 
quet in  the  "auberge,"  and  a  bonfire  at  night,  around 
which  the  peasants  danced  hand  in  hand,  after  which 
they  departed  to  their  different  homes.  It  was  most 
amusing  to  watch  the  preparations  for  this  particular 
celebration.  The  inn  at  which  we  stopped  was  the  cen- 
ter of  activities.  In  all  the  houses  about  the  little  square 
the  housekeepers  were  busy  in  the  kitchens,  with  arms 
bare  to  elbow,  faces  dusted  with  flour,  kneading  and  pull- 
ing dough  and  forming  all  kinds  of  dainties.  Over  all 
was  a  most  appetizing  odor  of  baking  pastry  from  blaz- 
ing ovens.     The  night  before  arrived  the  jugglers  and 

163 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

tumblers,  and  the  huge  vans  of  the  itinerant  merchants, 
who  at  once  began  to  set  up  their  stalls  and  booths  in 
the  spaces  allotted  to  them  by  the  watchful  gendarme. 
At  dawn  the  church  bell  rang  loudly,  calling  the  people 
to  early  mass.  The  young  men  soon  appeared  in  the 
square,  all  freshly  shaven,  clad  in  all  the  unwonted  finery 
of  white  linen  shirt  and  stiff  blouse.  Behind  the  drawn 
curtains  the  young  girls  are  arranging  themselves  before 
the  mirrors  in  all  their  best,  silk  fichus  and  stiff  standing- 
out  headdresses  of  heavy  black  Alsatian  silk  called 
*'noeuds."  Very  proudly  they  stand  when  they  come 
forth,  all  in  their  wide  stiff  skirts,  and  heavy  creaking 
shoes. 

All  go  to  the  church  on  this  day  of  high  mass.  It  is 
crowded  with  the  people,  who  are  most  devout,  and  the 
late  ones  who  are  unable  to  enter  congregate  on  the 
steps.  The  service  seems  very  long  to  the  younger  ones, 
who  plainly  are  nervous  and  excited,  and  when  at  last 
the  final  prayer  is  said  by  the  priest,  they  hasten  away  to 
"The  Place"  or  square,  where  the  musicians  are  already 
gathered,  tuning  up  their  shining  brass  instruments. 
Here  also  are  the  corps  of  "Pompiers,"  as  the  firemen  are 
called,  clad  in  quaint  metal  breastplates,  and  huge  hel- 
mets with  long  horse  hair  plumes.  The  rest  of  the  cos- 
tume is  most  ludicrously  ordinary,  dwindling  away  from 
the  splendor  of  the  plumed  helmet  and  shining  breast- 
plate, to  patched  corduroy  trousers  and  hobnailed  shoes. 

164 


FETE  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 

But  of  these  discrepancies  they  seem  quite  uncoMscious. 

Early  in  the  day  the  booths  have  been  erected,  each  in 
the  place  allotted  to  the  merchant.  They  contain  every- 
thing calculated  to  tempt  the  peasant  to  spend  his  or  her 
hard-earned  coin.  The  young  girls,  with  shining  eyes, 
surround  the  pitiful  display  of  caps  and  ribbons,  cheap 
lace  and  gaudy  skirts,  eager  to  possess  such  treasures 
fresh  from  the  great  city.  At  one  side  is  a  fortune-teller, 
before  whose  tent  a  small  darky,  clad  in  oriental  turban, 
parades  ostentatiously,  carrying  a  large  green  cockatoo 
on  his  outstretched  wrist.  At  the  other  is  a  long  scarlet 
wagon  with  a  skylight,  before  which  a  hoarse-voiced 
Hebraic-looking  man,  wearing  flashy  jewelry,  calls  upon 
the  peasants  to  "step  up,  pay  up,  and  see  the  only  living 
mermaid  in  captivity,"  which  turns  out  to  be  a  trained 
seal,  and  which  certainly  does  its  tricks  with  great  intel- 
ligence and  evident  enjoyment.  There  is  also  an  itin- 
erant photographer,  who  for  only  one  mark  gives  not 
only  two  likenesses  "guaranteed,"  but  a  "gold"  frame 
for  one  of  them. 

Loud  beating  of  a  large  bass  drum  draws  a  crowd  about 
a  highly-varnished  carriage,  drawn  by  four  large  black 
horses  with  long  manes  and  tails  most  beautifully 
groomed,  and  with  oiled  hoofs.  The  occupant,  standing 
up  on  the  seat,  is  calling  for  "amateurs"  who  wish  to  have 
their  teeth  drawn,  "with  no  charge  for  the  first  one," 
whatever  he  means  by  that.     Crowds  of  excited  children 

165 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

dart  hither  among  the  people,  eager  to  see  it  all  at  once. 
Older  ones  walk  about  cautiously  clinking  their  coins  to- 
gether, trying  to  decide  upon  a  purchase.  Over  all  is 
the  smell  of  hot  fat  from  the  waffle  booth,  where,  over  a 
hot  coal  fire,  a  fat,  bare-armed  woman  is  cooking  the 
sweet  dainties  so  beloved  by  the  peasantry  all  over  Eu- 
rope. The  inn  and  the  small  shops  are  full  to  overflow- 
ing with  eating  and  drinking  men  and  women.  There 
is  the  raucous  sound  of  a  barrel  organ,  accompanied  by 
loud  singing,  and  from  the  open  doors  of  the  houses  come 
servants  carrying  bottles  and  jugs  to  and  fro.  Amid 
shouts  of  laughter  one  hears  glasses  jingle  and  heavy 
hands  pounding  on  the  tables.  The  costumes  are  bril- 
liant in  color  and  unusual. 

The  women,  young  and  old,  wear  the  huge  bow  of 
black  ribbon  ("noeud  Alsatian")  on  their  heads.  Occa- 
sionally, however,  in  some  of  the  groups  the  ribbons  will 
be  of  red  or  plaid,  or  even  ornamented  with  large,  bright 
flowers.  The  skirts  are  varied  in  color,  some  of  striped 
purple,  others  in  quaint  squares  or  checks.  The  waists 
or  bodices  are  most  lavishly  embroidered  in  bright  colors, 
and  the  collars  are  often  of  very  fine  and  valuable  lace. 
The  size  of  the  headdress  varies  with  the  locality.  For 
instance,  those  of  Oberseebach  and  Hoffen  are  quite 
small  and  generally  of  dark  red  silk.  The  cut  of  the 
skirt  is  also  different.  It  would  take  a  whole  chapter  to 
describe  in  detail  the  variety  of  costumes  of  the  provinces. 

166 


FETE  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 

I  am  informed  that  there  are  at  least  fifty  different  styles 
in  existence,  but  that  since  the  invasion  of  the  provinces 
the  peasants  have  refrained  from  wearing  many  of  them, 
out  of  contempt  for  the  Germans.  The  ancient  cos- 
tumes are  almost  extinct  in  the  lower  Rhine  region  from 
Sainte  Odile  to  the  Palatinate  frontier.  In  the  towns  of 
the  Upper  Rhine  they  are  now  rarely  seen  save  at  Met- 
zeral,  and  in  the  Fecht  valley,  at  Sundernach  near  Mun- 
ster.  In  the  Vosges,  and  the  Sundgau,  the  more  con- 
servative of  the  peasantry  still  wear  the  distinctive 
"noeuds,"  but  to  see  them  as  they  were  formerly  worn 
one  must  seek  them  on  fete  days  or  Sundays.  Usually 
the  costumes  differ  but  little  from  those  worn  elsewhere 
in  France. 

One  of  the  greatest  fete  days  is  that  of  Belfort,  some- 
times called  and  spelled  "Befort,"  a  town  and  fortress  of 
the  first  class  on  the  river  Savoreuse,  a  place  of  the 
greatest  military  importance  commanding  the  famous 
passage  between  the  Vosges  and  the  Jura,  called  the  gap 
of  Belfort.  The  town  is  an  ancient  one,  having  been 
founded  in  the  eleventh  century,  although  but  little  evi- 
dence of  this  antiquity  is  now  to  be  seen.  The  house  of 
Burgundy  acquired  it  in  marriage  in  the  fourteenth  cen- 
tury, and  it  then  passed  on  successively  to  those  of 
Ferrette  and  Austria.  It  was  taken  by  the  Swedes  in 
1632,  and  by  the  French  in  1636  and  1648.  In  1814  it 
successfully  resisted  the  Allies,  and  also  the  siege  by  the 

167 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Germans  in  1870-71,  which  lasted  from  November,  1870, 
to  February,  187 1,  and  capitulated  with  the  honors  of  war 
only  upon  conclusion  of  an  armistice  and  under  orders 
from  the  French  government.  The  old  town  is  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  river  and  commanded  by  a  most  imposing 
looking  citadel  upon  the  lofty  summit  of  a  rock,  said 
to  be  more  than  200  feet  high.  Before  it  is  the  colossal 
statue  of  the  Lion  of  Belfort,  the  work  of  Bartholdi. 
Beyond  the  Porte  de  Brisach  is  a  hollow,  where  there  is 
an  immense  entrenchment,  in  which,  it  is  said,  twenty 
thousand  men  can  be  encamped.  Through  it  passes  the 
high  road  to  Strassburg.  Beyond  this  is  the  famous 
Fort  de  la  Miotte,  with  its  tower,  which  is  considered  the 
very  Palladium  of  Belfort,  a  sacred  heritage.  This 
tower,  it  is  said,  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  during  the 
Franco-Prussian  war,  but  has  since  been  reconstructed. 
Here  each  year  come  conscripts  and  their  families  by  the 
thousands,  who  venerate  the  sacred  object,  which  is  a 
small  stone  from  the  original  tower  set  in  the  wall. 

Among  these  simple  country  people,  strangely  enough, 
there  seems  to  be  no  fear  of  death.  We  found  that  one 
thought  alone  horrifies  and  gives  them  anxiety;  that  is 
the  fear  of  Hell,  and  the  terror  of  encountering  the  ghosts 
of  those  who  die  unrepentant  and  without  having  con- 
fessed to  the  priest.  In  the  remote  villages  of  the 
Vosges,  as  soon  as  a  peasant  is  judged  to  be  on  his  or  her 
deathbed,  he  or  she  is  at  once  arranged  for  the  final  mo- 

168 


FETE  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 

ment,  even  though  the  end  is  a  day  or  so  distant.  The 
neighbors  are  notified,  and  the  house  is  open  to  all, 
whether  day  or  night.  Thither  the  neighbors  come  to 
pay  their  respects  and  condole  with  the  family.  All 
visit  the  bed  where  the  poor  creature  lingers,  already  re- 
garded as  having  gone  beyond  the  pale.  A  basin  dis- 
played upon  a  white  towel  contains  holy  water,  and  in 
this  is  a  green  branch,  which  is  used  by  all  to  sprinkle 
the  bed  on  which  the  sick  peasant  is  lying  on  his  back,  his 
hands  already  crossed  upon  his  breast.  In  and  out  of  the 
room  passes  the  procession  of  people,  who  are  moved 
often  as  much  by  curiosity  as  interest.  It  is  most  pa- 
thetic, not  to  say  uncanny.  After  the  end  comes,  the 
deceased  is  attended  by  a  watch  formed  of  the  relatives 
and  certain  aged  women,  who  make  a  sort  of  profession 
of  waiting  with  the  corpse. 

Our  driver  informed  us  that  they  take  turns  in  watch- 
ing during  the  night,  "driving  away  evil  spirits,  drink- 
ing much  hot  wine  and  spices  in  the  intervals  of  exor- 
cism, and  that  they  compose  poems  in  eulogy  of  the 
dead."  We  imagined  these  services  to  be  somewhat  like 
the  Irish  wakes,  or  the  Corsican  "Voceri."  The  driver 
repeated  some  of  the  exclamations,  which  were:  "Ah, 
the  poor  man,  why  did  he  die? — and  so  early  too,  and  he 
not  yet  forty !  Ah,  that  I  should  have  to  cry  at  his  fu- 
neral— Sainted  Marie !" — and  so  on. 

He  told  us  that,  as  a  usual  thing,  the  coffined  body  is 

169 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

borne  to  the  church  on  a  bier;  but  if  that  of  a  young 
girl,  her  companions  always  carry  her  body,  and  they  are 
always  veiled  and  clad  in  pure  white,  and  that  a  lighted 
taper  is  carried  before  the  procession  by  her  nearest  and 
dearest  friend.  In  the  case  of  a  youth  or  a  man,  the 
friends  always  walk  on  foot  in  procession,  all  wearing 
bands  of  crepe  on  their  arms  and  hats.  The  men  and 
women  walk  separately.  After  the  burial,  all  the  friends 
and  neighbors  are  invited  to  the  bereaved  home  for  a 
feast,  known  as  the  "obit,"  for  the  peasants  are  great 
eaters  and  drinkers.  This  feast  begins  in  great  sol- 
emnity, but  as  it  progresses  and  the  bottles  are  emptied, 
the  talk  grows  louder  and  louder,  until  the  oldest  friend 
of  the  deceased  rises  and  eulogises  him,  and  then  all  join 
in  intoning  a  sort  of  a  "de  profundis."  Then  after  a 
collection  is  taken  up  for  the  poor,  the  ceremony  is  over. 
The  peasants  regard  unfailingly  all  anniversaries,  and 
do  not  fail  to  see  that  mass  is  said  by  the  priest  for  the 
repose  of  the  soul  of  the  departed.  All  Saints'  day  is, 
however,  particularly  the  day  upon  which  the  villagers 
visit  the  cemetery  to  pay  homage  to  their  dead,  and  the 
scene  of  the  green  mounds  surrounded  by  kneeling 
women  and  men  in  the  shadow  of  the  creamy  white  walls 
of  the  village  church  is  very  moving.  The  peasants 
bring  green  branches,  which  are  blessed  on  Palm  Sunday, 
and  decorate  the  graves.  These  are,  in  some  places, 
called  'Tagnottes,"  and  remain  through  the  year  into  the 

170 


FETE  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 

winter,  until  the  white  mantle  of  snow  has  covered  all 
from  sight. 

One  of  the  curious  observances  is  the  Choral  Fete  du 
Dimanche,  held  in  the  neighborhood  of  Strassburg,  and 
on  the  Palatinat  frontier,  when  bands  of  young  girls  con- 
gregate in  the  localities  in  large  numbers  in  the  evening 
after  vespers,  and,  hand  in  hand,  parade  the  streets  of 
the  villages,  singing  the  quaint  and  often  very  musical 
folk  songs  of  ancient  Alsace.  Nothing  more  exquisite 
can  be  imagined  than  the  sweet  voices  of  these  young 
girls  sounding  among  the  thick  trees.  The  songs  are 
adorable  in  their  sentiment.  However,  I  am  told  that 
since  the  enforcement  of  the  hated  *'Wacht  am  Rhein"  at 
all  concerts  and  gatherings,  the  custom  has  gradually 
ceased. 

Another  strange  custom  is  that  called  the  "Assemblee," 
where  the  proprietors  and  farmers  meet  to  hire  young 
maids,  shepherds  and  laborers  to  work  on  the  farms. 
Sometimes  these  occasions  are  called  "louees,"  and  take 
place  during  the  day  in  the  public  square,  or  even  out  in 
the  open  fields  outside  of  the  towns.  The  young  girls  or 
fellows  who  wish  work  wear  branches  of  leaves  at  their 
waists,  or  in  their  hats.  A  green  branch  thus  announces, 
"Hire  me^  please,  I  am  stout,  able  and  strong,  and  I 
pledge  myself  and  my  labor  faithfully  to  you  for  one 
year  at  the  price  of  fifty  francs,  my  clothes,  and  good  food 
to  eat." 

171 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

The  farmers  in  search  of  labor  stop  at  the  inn,  which 
is  decorated  with  branches  of  pine  or  juniper,  and  always 
the  bargain  is  concluded  over  a  bottle  of  wine.  The 
agreement  signed  on  both  sides — it  is  always  in  writing 
and  minutely  worded — the  retainer  of  five  francs  paid, 
back  go  the  boys  and  girls  to  the  dancing.  The  hurdy- 
gurdy  squeals  and  groans  and  snuffles,  the  archaic  bag- 
pipe drones,  and  over  all  is  heard  the  voice  of  the  dance 
leader  calling  out  hoarsely  the  figures  of  the  "quadrille." 
How  the  skirts  fly  about  as  the  strong-armed  peasant 
boys  swing  their  flushed-f aced  partners !  How  anxious 
they  all  are  for  a  day  or  so  of  pleasure  before  they  begin 
their  year  of  hard,  grinding  toil — early  morn  to  dark, 
and  then,  after  a  bowl  of  soup  and  a  thick  crust  with 
half  a  bottle  of  thin  wine,  they  tumble  into  their  straw 
for  the  few  hours'  rest  allowed  them.  What  wonder  that 
they  drink  to  excess  on  this  their  day  of  freedom,  in  for- 
getf  ulness  of  all  that  lies  before  them  I 

This  sort  of  gathering  may  be  studied  at  Bouxwiller, 
a  most  charming  and  delightful  little  town  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Saverne.  It  was  at  this  place  that  the  Alsa- 
tian painter,  Marechal,  made  many  of  the  studies  for  his 
pictures.  In  Alsace,  we  are  told,  when  two  young  people 
have  been  attracted  to  each  other  and  exchanged  vows, 
they  present  themselves  before  their  parents  dutifully 
and  ask  their  authority.  As  a  rule  this  authority  is 
rarely  withheld,  and  the  couple  are  henceforth  permitted 

172 


FETE  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 

to  go  and  come  as  they  will,  to  attend  fetes  at  distant 
towns  together,  and  even  to  stop  at  inns  for  days  at  a 
time  without  any  sort  of  restraint  or  scandal.  Their 
faith  is  plighted,  and  that  is  enough.  This  is  similar  to 
the  Dutch  custom.  A  few  days  before  the  wedding  they 
appear  before  the  town  notary  and  sign  the  civil  wed- 
ding contract. 

Sometimes,  in  certain  localities,  the  young  girl  is  then 
expected  to  disappear  coyly  and  hide  herself  away  in 
some  corner  of  the  house.  All  the  parties  then  join  gaily 
in  the  search  for  her,  and  it  may  be  said  that,  as  a  rule, 
she  is  not  hard  to  find.  Then  she  is  forcibly  carried  be- 
fore the  notary,  and  by  certain  promises  and  the  payment 
of  a  silver  present  by  the  prospective  groom,  she  finally, 
amid  shrieks  of  laughter  and  somewhat  free  jokes,  con- 
sents to  add  her  signature  to  the  contract,  which  is  then 
duly  stamped  by  the  notary  and  delivered  into  the  hands 
of  the  young  girl,  or  her  parents  or  guardian,  as  the  case 
may  be.  A  great  dinner  is  then  given  by  the  parents, 
sometimes  in  the  ''Salle  des  Noces"  at  the  inn,  and  there 
are  merry  or  tearful  speeches  by  those  who  feel  so 
moved,  and  every  one  eats  and  drinks  immoderately  to 
the  health  of  the  young  couple,  who  sit  at  the  head  of  the 
long  table,  holding  hands  and  beaming  upon  each  other 
and  all  the  world  besides.  At  the  end  of  the  dinner, 
which  lasts  for  hours,  shots  are  heard  outside,  and  imme- 
diately, amid  great  shouts  and  applause,  two  or  three 

173 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

young  fellows  in  uniform,  conscripts  of  the  year,  burst  in 
upon  them.  One  of  these  presents  a  huge  bouquet  of 
flowers  to  the  fiancee,  with  a  humorous  verse  suited  to 
the  occasion.  The  others  then  come  forward  and  recite 
in  unison  a  poem  of  more  or  less  freedom,  calling  down 
blessings  upon  the  pair.  These  compliments  concluded, 
the  young  pair  present  the  three  well-wishers  with  a  sum 
of  money  in  silver,  called  the  "trumbolle,"  which  later 
on  is  spent  at  the  inn  in  celebration. 

Elsewhere  upon  the  day  of  marriage  the  groom  and 
his  groomsmen,  all  dressed  in  their  best,  parade  the 
streets  in  a  carriage,  all  decked  with  flowers  and  ribbons, 
delivering  the  invitations  to  the  wedding.  A  pistol  shot 
fired  outside  the  house  announces  their  arrival.  The 
groom  then  invites  the  inmates,  with  a  well-turned  com- 
pliment, takes  a  glass  of  wine,  and  passes  on  to  the  next 
house.  As  the  invitations  are  many  in  a  wedding  of  this 
sort,  it  is  perhaps  needless  to  comment  upon  the  condi- 
tion of  the  groom  and  his  cohort  of  honor  before  they 
finish  their  task.  The  day  before  the  ceremony  the  fur- 
niture and  belongings  of  the  couple  are  transported  with 
great  ceremony  in  one  or  two  large  wagons  to  their 
future  home.  The  wagons  are  drawn  by  as  many  horses 
as  the  groom  can  afford,  and  both  wagon  and  horses  are 
most  lavishly  decorated  with  ribbons  and  wreaths  of 
flowers.     The  first  wagon  is  driven  by  the  groom  him- 

174 


FETE  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 

self,  and  contains  the  nuptial  couch,  all  set  up  and 
dressed  with  fine  linen  and  embroidery.  The  next  con- 
tains the  chairs,  wardrobe  and  pots  and  pans  of  iron  and 
bright  new  copper.  In  the  last  wagon  is  the  cradle,  all 
hung  with  ribbons  and  wreaths,  and  two  or  three  young 
girls  all  in  the  glory  of  the  costume  of  the  village. 
Should  the  procession  have  to  pass  through  any  neighbor- 
ing village  street,  the  cortege  is  held  up  by  the  boys  and 
girls,  and  the  groom  is  forced  to  pay  a  small  ransom  for 
permission  to  proceed. 

On  the  wedding  day,  the  invited  guests  marcH  to  the 
house,  carrying  personally  the  wedding  gifts.  A  loud 
peal  from  the  church  bell  announces  the  presence  at  the 
church  of  the  groom  and  his  family.  At  the  second 
stroke  of  the  bell  the  best  man,  accompanied  by  the  maid 
of  honor,  goes  to  the  presbytery  and  presents  to  the  priest 
or  clergyman  the  so-called  "Soupe  Nuptial,"  contained 
in  a  small  tureen,  together  with  a  trencher  of  roast  meat. 
The  best  man  also  offers  in  turn  a  bottle  of  old  wine,  gar- 
landed with  flowers,  and  a  slice  of  bread. 

The  ceremony  then  commences.  When  the  happy 
pair  emerge  from  the  bride's  house  they  are  greeted  by 
shots  from  fowling  pieces,  and  loud  shouts  of  welcome 
from  the  crowd  awaiting  them.  The  procession  then 
forms,  at  the  head  walks  the  groom,  his  hat  ornamented 
with  a  sprig  of  "romarin,"  arm  in  arm  with  the  maid  of 

175 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

honor.  Following  these  comes  the  bride,  on  the  arm  of 
the  best  man.  Then  follow  the  parents,  relatives  and 
friends,  in  their  order. 

After  the  ceremony  the  pair  are  stopped  by  the  choir, 
when  the  wedding  is  Catholic,  and  by  the  orphans  of  the 
town,  when  Protestant,  and  these,  holding  a  long  ribbon 
or  garland,  forbid  passage  until  the  customary  sum  of 
money  is  paid.  Returning  to  the  home  of  the  parents 
for  the  wedding  banquet,  the  bride  and  groom  and  the 
invited  guests  take  part  in  certain  "Pantagruelistic"  fes- 
tivities, varying  more  or  less,  according  to  locality,  but 
sometimes  of  a  character  which  cannot  well  be  described 
in  print.  The  following  day  .the  guests  are  invited  to 
a  dance  and  supper,  which  is  prolonged  far  into  the  night. 
On  the  third  and  last  day  of  the  celebration,  the  best 
man  and  his  assistants  proceed  to  the  home  of  the  maid 
of  honor,  and  secure  the  hoe  and  the  "quenouille"  (dis- 
taff) offered  by  the  friends  to  the  newly-married  couple. 
A  procession  forms  in  great  state,  preceded  by  a  couple  of 
musicians  playing  cornets.  Two  young  girls  in  costume 
carry  the  hoe  and  the  "quenouille,"  and  proceed  to  the 
new  house  of  the  bride  and  groom,  to  whom  they  offer 
them  most  solemnly.  A  collection  is  then  taken  up  by  a 
parish  officer  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor;  these  are  never 
forgotten,  no  matter  what  the  occasion. 

M.  Henry  Welschinger  (member  of  the  Institute)  in 
his  delightful  account,  "Moeurs  et  coutumes,"  speaks  of 

176 


FETE  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 

one  ceremony  which,  however,  we  did  not  see.  "There 
is  a  very  amusing  wedding  custom  in  the  environs  of 
Soultz-sous-Forets.  At  a  certain  moment  of  the  day  the 
guests  behold  the  great  door  of  the  farmhouse  open,  amid 
cries  of  delight  and  laughter.  One  hears  an  oft-repeated 
phrase  shouted  by  the  crowd  of  onlookers,  *D'r  yle 
wangen  Kompt'  (dialect),  as  a  cavalier,  mounted  on  a 
horse,  all  clad  in  garlands  and  ribbons,  appears,  blowing 
a  long  brass  trumpet.  The  horse  is  attached  to  a  large 
cart  wheel  by  means  of  a  chain,  and  on  the  wheel  are 
seated  the  grotesquely  attired  figures  of  a  man  and  a 
woman,  with  huge  false  noses,  and  uttering  loud  cries  of 
simulated  terror  as  they  are  dragged  along,  clinging  fran- 
tically to  the  revolving  wheel's  rim.^  What  is  the  signifi- 
cation of  this  strange  ceremony'?  No  one  can  explain 
exactly.  It  is  certainly  of  great  antiquity,  perhaps  it 
betokens  the  vicissitudes  of  married  life,  or  typifies  the 
character  of  the  road  before  them.  ..." 

The  wedding  feasts  are  always  prolonged  to  the  very 
last  degree,  for  the  peasants  are  great  eaters  and  drinkers. 
The  food  provided  is  abundant,  often  costing  far  more 
than  they  can  well  afford,  through  pride,  and  resulting 
sometimes  in  the  accumulation  of  debts,  under  which  the 
parents  labor  for  years.  But  they  do  not  grudge  the  ex- 
pense, even  though  it  entails  such  suffering.  Roast  birds 
and  stewed  meats,  with  huge  patties  and  all  sorts  of  tarts 

*  Just  how  this  was  accomplished  was  not  made  clear  by  the  author. 

177 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

and  pastry  abound.  At  the  groaning  table  in  the  always 
picturesque  dining  room,  the  happy-faced  bride  and 
groom  are  seated  at  the  head  of  the  gathering,  with  the 
relatives  and  honored  guests,  generally  in  the  order  of 
age.  The  younger  folk,  boys  and  girls,  are  placed  to- 
gether at  one  side,  and  are  very  noisy  and  full  of  quips 
and  loud  laughter  over  the  usually  very  free  conversa- 
tion. It  is  customary  for  the  notables,  M.  the  Mayor  if 
possible,  to  drink  the  health  of  the  bride  in  a  felicitous 
speech,  and  this  is  afterwards  boasted  about  and  discussed 
by  the  family  long  after  the  festivities  have  become  dim 
memories  in  the  neighborhood.  After  the  Mayor  has 
shaken  hands  with  the  couple,  wished  them  long  life  and 
departed,  comes  the  musical  part  of  the  festivity,  in 
which  the  ushers  and  the  young  girl  friends  of  the  pair 
take  turns  in  singing  the  well-known  sentimental  songs 
of  the  province,  and  then,  amid  cheers  and  applause,  the 
door  opens  and  in  come  the  old  women  who  have  per- 
chance cooked  and  labored  over  the  banquet.  These  ar- 
range themselves  about  the  bride  and  groom  and 
solemnly  chant  the  "Bride's  Song,"  usually  of  a  most 
lugubrious  character — grave  and  melancholy,  suited,  as 
they  think,  to  the  life  of  the  peasant,  filled  with  allusions 
to  toil,  trouble,  and  bereavement.  After  all  the  noise 
and  laughter,  it  lends  a  tragic  note  to  the  celebration,  and 
there  are  tears,  and  sad  shakes  of  gray  heads  over  the 
well-known  words  of  such  meaning  to  those  who  have 

178 


FETE  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 

travelled  the  worn  road  of  life.     The  singers  present  a 
bouquet  to  the  bride,  singing  something  like  this : 

Pray  take  these  flowers  from  me,  Madame, 
For  soon  you'll  plainly  see,  Madame, 
These  happy  hours — 

These  fragrant  flowers 
Shall  turn  to  dust — 

As  all  things  must — 
Soon  you  shall  plainly  see,  Madame  I — Soon  you  shall 
plainly  seel 

Then  all  at  once  the  musicians  make  a  loud  noise  with 
their  instruments,  which  quite  drowns  the  lugubrious 
song,  and  the  old  women  are  hustled  away,  rewarded 
with  a  couple  of  pieces  of  silver  each  for  their  trouble, 
and  all  leave  the  disordered  table  for  the  dance  in  the 
barn,  or  on  the  grass  in  the  meadow,  if  the  weather  is 
,  fine.  During  the  dance  the  bride  and  groom  steal  away 
to  some  neighboring  house,  in  which  they  are  to  stop  for 
the  night,  the  secret  of  which  they  think  has  been  jeal- 
ously guarded,  but  all  in  vain,  for  their  flight  is  soon  re- 
marked and  the  search  begins.  They  are  soon  discovered 
and  the  sound  of  a  gun-shot  draws  the  crowd  to  their 
retreat,  where  one  of  the  ceremonies  is  the  presentation 
of  a  bowl  of  "white  soup"  by  the  best  man  and  the  maid 
of  honor  to  the  couple  in  the  chamber,  while  outside  the 
house  the  young  people  dance  and  sing  until  they  are 
wearied.     One  of  the  "Chansons  of  La  Saintange,"  of 

179 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

which  the  peasants  are  very  fond,  runs  something  like 
this: 

your  husband  sure  you'll  find, 
Will  rule  you  and  control  you  I 
He'll  not  be  always  kind, 
And  who  will  then  console  you? 
But  always  let  him  have  his  way, 
For  certainly  you  must  obey  .  .  . 
Hehllala,  Hehllala! 

And  thus  rises  the  curtain  upon  the  married  life  of  the 
peasant. 

Another  very  quaint  ceremony  is  called  the  "Guller- 
tanz"  (Rooster  Dance),  celebrated  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Ingwiller  (Lower  Alsace) .  It  is  described  as  taking 
place  in  the  large  barns,  where  there  is  ample  floor  space. 
There  will  be  a  tall  pole,  all  garlanded  with  vines  and 
flowers,  and  hung  with  flags,  from  among  which  the  be- 
loved tri-color  is  missing.  To  this  pole  is  suspended  the 
prize  rooster  of  the  community.  All  about  the  huge 
room  in  the  barn,  with  its  great  dark,  roughly-hewn 
oaken  beams  crossing  overhead  from  wall  to  wall,  are 
seated  the  young  girls  and  their  parents,  and  promenad- 
ing up  and  down  in  pairs  are  the  eligible  young  men 
from  far  and  near,  all  dressed  in  their  best  holiday  array. 
Thus  the  young  people  are  able  to  meet  and  become  ac- 
quainted properly  under  the  watchful  eyes  of  their  par- 
ents or  guardians.  After  half  an  hour  of  this  promenad- 
ing and  introducing,  the  master  of  ceremonies  gives  the 

180 


FETE  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 

signal,  and  the  young  girls  form  a  circle  about  the  flower- 
decked  pole  and  intone  a  joyous  sort  of  Rabelaisian  poem, 
in  which  some  of  the  sentiments  are  rather  free  in  lan- 
guage; too  much  so  for  quotation  here.  But  it  is  quite  a 
matter  of  course  in  these  country  districts  of  Alsace-Lor- 
raine. This  concluded,  the  girls  choose  their  partners 
and  the  dance  begins.  Above  where  the  rooster  is  hang- 
ing there  is  suspended  horizontally  a  stick,  wrapped  in 
ribbons,  upon  which  is  fixed  a  large  tallow  candle.  At 
each  end  of  this  stick  is  a  cord;  suspended  from  one  is  a 
bottle;  from  the  other  a  leaden  ball.  When  the  signal 
is  given  to  begin  the  dance,  the  first  couple  are  handed  a 
bouquet  of  flowers,  which  together  they  hold  as  high  as 
they  can  reach,  while  dancing  about  the  pole.  When 
they  tire,  they  pass  the  bouquet  to  the  couple  next  behind, 
and  so  on  up  to  the  moment  when  the  tallow  candle 
burning  down  sets  fire  to  the  string  and  lets  fall  either 
the  leaden  ball  or  the  bottle.  The  dancers  who  carry 
the  bouquet  at  this  moment  win  the  prize  rooster,  but  this 
would  seem  an  expensive  sort  of  prize,  for  he  or  she  who 
gains  it  is  required  to  serve  it  up  roasted  at  the  supper 
which  follows  the  ceremony,  and  the  young  man  is  ex- 
pected to  furnish  the  wine  to  wash  it  down.  But  I  am 
told  the  penalty  is  always  paid  with  very  good  grace. 

In  Lorraine  on  one  of  the  Sundays  of  "Careme,"  a  sin- 
gular custom  is  maintained  by  the  peasants.  For  weeks 
before  they  gather  and  prepare  great  torches  made  of  hay 

181 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

steeped  in  resin.  When  the  day  arrives,  a  parade  takes 
place,  headed  by  the  local  band  of  fiddlers  and  pipers,  and 
followed  by  gaily  decorated  farm  wagons,  drawn  by  great 
draft  horses,  and  filled  with  young  men,  girls,  and 
laughing,  shouting  children.  This  celebration  is  called 
*'Bure,"  in  some  localities;  in  others  *'Le  feu  des  Bran- 
dons et  des  Bures,"  and  also  in  the  dialect  "Bauernfart- 
nacht."  Children  make  the  round  of  the  village,  knock- 
ing gaily  at  the  doors  and  begging  faggots  and  all  sorts 
of  fuel  for  the  fire.  This  they  pile  in  the  wagons  and 
carry  to  the  place  where  the  celebration  is  to  be  held, 
generally  in  the  public  square  of  the  village.  There  the 
fuel  is  made  into  a  great  pile,  and  at  a  signal,  after  dark- 
ness has  fallen,  a  match  is  put  to  it,  and  as  the  flames 
light  up  the  scene,  the  peasants  dance  about  it  and  sing 
their  sometimes  merry  and  often  melancholy  folk  songs. 
In  the  valley  when  the  "bures"  are  set  on  fire,  the  young 
bays  and  girls  gather  with  lists  of  the  names  of  their  com- 
panions. Against  each  name  of  a  young  fellow  the  mas- 
ter of  ceremonies  places  the  name  of  a  young  girl,  and 
these  are  then  considered  affianced  for  the  evening. 
When  the  "bran don"  or  "bure"  is  set  on  fire,  two  young 
fellows,  elected  previously,  are  placed  in  the  window  of 
one  of  the  houses  overlooking  the  scene.  By  the  aid  of 
a  lantern  the  list  is  read  as  follows : 

The  reader  cries  out  loudly:     *1  specify,  I  specify." 
The  waiting  crowd  below  cry  out  gleefully : 

182 


FETE  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 

*'Whom  do  you  specify*?" 

"Alphonse  Dargon  and  Marie  Dieudonne/' 

"  'Tis  done,  and  well  done  I" 

Then  some  one  fires  off  a  musket  or  fowling  piece,  and 
the  spectators  proceed  with  the  game  or  ceremony  until 
all  the  names  have  been  read  out  to  the  end  of  the  list. 

Sometimes,  so  it  is  said,  this  arbitrary  coupling  of  the 
names  of  the  young  people  results  in  weddings.  The 
young  girls  who  are  pleased  with  their  oddly-named 
partners,  invite  these  "fiances"  to  their  homes,  with  the 
consent  of  the  parents,  and  it  is  then  customary  for  the 
young  couple  to  seat  themselves  side  by  side  for  the  fete 
day  supper.  After  this,  should  the  families  be  pleased, 
they  exchange  visits  very  formally,  with  a  view  to  the 
business  of  marriage  between  the  young  people. 

These  customs  vary  according  to  locality;  in  some  of 
the  towns  in  the  Vosges  on  this  particular  Sunday  in 
"Careme,"  the  parading  couples  so  curiously  brought  to- 
gether, are  called  "Valentins"  and  "Valentines*,"  and 
these  are  required  to  dance  together  about  the  great  bon- 
fire, to  the  accompaniment  of  a  f  usilade  of  gunshots,  and 
the  joyous  cries  and  laughter  of  the  crowd.  After  which 
they  exchange  gifts,  and  visit  each  other's  parents,  until 
the  engagement  is  an  accomplished  fact. 

It  is  said  that  quite  often  this  coupling  of  names  is  pre- 
arranged by  the  parents,  and  that,  at  any  rate,  a  couple 
so  named  are  not  expected  to  object,  for  any  reason,  or 

183 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

to  refuse  to  dance  together.  This  would  be  considered 
in  very  bad  taste,  to  say  the  least.  Each  locality  has  its 
peculiar  celebrations,  varying  most  interestingly,  em- 
bodying sometimes  charming  details,  and  at  others  aston- 
ishing ones,  but  all  singularly  free  from  that  coarseness 
generally  looked  for  in  peasant  gatherings. 


184 


%w^  <0(iilf 


Smntf  <0(illf 


^I^N  the  crest  of  the  mount  of  Sainte  Odile,  near 
■  U^   Obernai,  is  the  great  and  celebrated  convent 

^^•^  standing  like  a  crown  above  the  dark  trees.  The 
"culte"  of  this  illustrious  saint,  who  is  the  "patron"  of 
Alsace,  embraces  the  memories  of  Charlemagne,  Richard 
Coeur  de  Lion,  Louis  le  Debonnaire,  and  not  only 
Charles  IV,  but  many  other  Emperors  and  Kings,  not  to 
mention  the  countless  number  of  other  great  personages 
down  to  the  present  day,  and  still  attracts  multitudes  of 
pilgrims  and  visitors,  who  contribute  to  the  renown  of 
the  Convent,  coming  from  the  most  distant  towns  as  well 
as  from  Strassburg,  Colmar  and  Schlestadt.  Many  of 
the  painters  of  France,  as  well  as  those  of  Alsace,  such  as 
Jundt  and  Lix,  have  found  subjects  here  for  their  pictures. 
Each  year  the  representatives  of  upwards  of  twenty-four 
parishes  walk  in  procession  to  the  tomb  of  the  saint  on 
the  mount.  The  place  of  pilgrimage  is  most  picturesque, 
and  whoever  attends  one  of  these  pilgrimages  is  well  re- 
paid by  the  view  of  the  immense  dark  forests  which  sur- 
round the  mount,  through  which  the  winding  white  roads 
seen  here  and  there  among  the  great  trees  are  like  silvery 

187 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

ribbons.  The  high  towers  of  the  church  and  the  chapel 
of  the  saint  against  the  sky,  and  below,  the  exquisite 
flowering  gardens,  all  make  a  most  unusual  picture. 
Above  the  high  wall  is  the  ancient  Hohenburg,  the 
chateau  of  Adalric,  who  was  Duke  of  Alsace,  father  of 
Sainte  Odile.  From  this  tower  one  may  view  the  im- 
mense green  and  golden  plains  of  cultivated  fields;  the 
lines  of  tall  poplars;  the  vineyards,  and  the  small  dim 
villages  of  clustered  peaceful-looking  houses,  with  their 
rosy  tiled  roofs;  the  spires  of  the  quaint  whitewashed 
churches;  and  the  distant  silvery  ribbon  of  the  Rhine, 
where  rises  the  mistily-seen  towers  of  Strassburg's  Notre 
Dame,  or  the  snow-capped  mountains  of  Switzerland. 

At  the  side  of  the  terrace,  overhanging  a  precipice,  is 
found  the  Chapel  of  the  Angels,  erected,  it  is  said,  in  com- 
memoration of  a  celestial  apparition  seen  by  Sainte 
Odile,  in  which  she  had  a  vision  of  the  suffer- 
ings of  her  father  in  purgatory,  from  which  her  fer- 
vent prayers  delivered  him.  On  Sainte  Valentine's 
day,  each  year,  hundreds  of  young  girls  of  the 
neighborhood  make  a  pilgrimage  to  the  convent,  in 
which  is  a  miraculous  fountain,  said  to  be  a  cure  for  all 
diseases  of  the  eye.  Others  come  to  make  nine  turns  of 
the  tower,  "which,"  the  custode  naively  informed  us, 
"assures  their  wedding  within  the  year." 

Near  the  Convent,  upon  a  plateau,  is  the  celebrated 
"mur  paien,"  the  remains  of  an  ancient  Celtic  fortifica- 

188 


SAINTE  ODILE 

tion,  said  to  be  "more  than  two  thousand  years  old." 
This  is  one  of  the  great  monuments  of  Alsace.  Its  pro- 
portions are  gigantic,  encircling  as  it  does  the  whole 
mountain  and  enclosing  in  the  neighborhood  of  "one 
hundred  hectares."  (A  hectare  equals  two  acres,  one 
rod  and  thirty-five  perches.)  This  great  wall  is  believed 
to  have  been  constructed  by  the  Celts  to  serve  as  a  cefuge 
for  the  inhabitants  of  the  region  during  the  Gallo-Roman 
epoch,  and  was  enlarged  by  the  Romans  at  various  times 
as  defense  against  the  Germanic  invasions.  Lucian 
makes  reference  to  it  in  "Pharsale"  (Vol.  I,  pp.  354- 
357).  The  wall  is  two  or  three  yards  high  in  some 
places,  and  is  formed  of  great  cut  stones  and  joined  to- 
gether by  oaken  pegs,  which  pegs  have,  of  course,  rotted 
away,  but  the  connecting  holes  are  plainly  to  be  seen. 
It  is  said  by  authorities  that  this  mode  of  fastening  was 
common  to  the  Roman  masons.  At  any  rate,  no  trace  of 
mortar  or  cement  is  to  be  seen  among  the  stones.  Here 
is  shown  the  great  stone  called  the  "Minnelstein," 
through  the  "eye"  of  which,  as  in  the  case  of  the  "Sor- 
cerer's Eye,"  before  mentioned,  a  remarkable  panorama 
of  the  valley  is  to  be  had.  A  little  farther  on  is  found  an 
immense  rock,  attached  to  the  "enciente,"  standing  more 
than  thirty  feet  high,  called  the  "Wachtstein,"  used  as  a 
post  of  observation  during  various  wars,  and  dominating 
the  environing  valley. 

In  the  Colmar  region  is  celebrated  yearly  the  pilgrim- 

189 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

age  of  Notre-Dame  des  Trois  Epis,  which  serves  for  the 
Upper  Rhine  as  the  pilgrimage  of  Sainte-Odile  does  for 
the  Lower  Rhine,  with  the  difference,  however,  that 
Sainte  Odile  is  of  the  greater  importance  as  the  Patron 
Saint  of  Alsace.  This  has  certain  unique  characteristics 
that  distinguish  it  from  all  others.  For  instance  the 
most  pious  walk  barefooted  from  the  remote  villages, 
chaplet  in  hand,  reciting  their  prayers  in  a  loud  voice. 
The  celebration  takes  place  in  the  Commune  of  Amer- 
schwirh,  canton  of  Kaysersberg.  According  to  tradi- 
tion, a  sacrilegious  peasant  at  mass  threw  his  portion  of 
the  Holy  Sacrament  on  the  ground.  Afterwards  it  was 
found  miraculously  suspended  upon  "Trois  Epis,"  where 
the  honey  bees  had  enveloped  it  with  wax.  In  celebra- 
tion of  this  miracle,  a  pilgrimage  was  inaugurated  by  the 
priests.  The  great  beauty  of  the  site  of  the  church,  set 
amid  a  magnificent  forest  on  the  mountain  draws  people 
from  distant  parts  of  the  country  each  year.  The  Con- 
vent itself  is  not  remarkable,  although  built  in  1635. 
The  interior  is  quite  filled  with  "Ex  Votos,"  and  a  heavy 
ornamentation.  On  the  wall  is  shown  a  stone  bearing  a 
bizarre  mark,  said  to  be  the  imprint  of  the  Evil  One, 
placed  there  during  a  terrific  storm  that  occurred  while 
the  Chapel  was  being  constructed. 

Nearly  two  hundred  years  after  the  Franks  drove  the 
Alamans  back  from  Strassburg,  that  is  to  say,  about  the 
year  660,  and  in  the  reign  of  Adalric  (or  Ethicon) ,  duke 

190 


SAINTE  ODILE 

of  Alsace,  and  his  spouse  Bereswinde,  a  babe  was  born  to 
them,  a  girl,  and  to  their  grief  she  was  blind.  Adalric 
from  despair  turned  to  desperation,  and  in  his  passion 
and  disappointment  would  have  killed  the  child,  had  not 
the  mother  secretly  confided  it  to  the  care  of  the  faithful 
nurse  who  attended  her.  The  child,  secreted,  was  taken 
by  night  to  a  distant  part  of  the  forest,  where  it  grew  up 
in  the  family  of  a  poor  wood-cutter,  and  eventually  was 
baptised  by  a  holy  man,  and  given  the  name  of  Odile. 
During  the  ceremony  the  girl  miraculously  recovered  her 
sight,  and  word  of  this  reaching  the  ears  of  the  Bishop, 
she  was  sent  for  and  brought  to  a  distant  monastery. 

Meanwhile  her  father,  Adalric,  ever  a  man  of  violence, 
had  killed  his  well  beloved  son  in  a  fit  of  passion.  And 
while  doing  penance  in  remorse,  his  wife,  finding  him 
thus  softened  in  spirit,  confessed  to  him  that  the  girl  who 
had  recovered  her  sight  so  miraculously  and  whose  name 
was  on  every  lip  throughout  the  dukedom,  was  none  other 
than  the  daughter  whom  he  had  tried  to  kill.  Adalric, 
overjoyed,  sent  for  her,  and  bestowed  upon  her  the  Cha- 
teau of  Hohenbourg,  which  she  afterwards  made  into  a 
monastery,  and  this  is  the  convent  which  bears  to-day  the 
name  of  the  blind  girl  Odile. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  she  built  another  monas- 
tery, to  which  the  name  of  Niedermunster  was  given. 
Here  she  planted  three  of  the  great  trees  for  which  the 
monastery  is  renowned.     Sainte  Odile  died  "at  a  great 

191 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

•gti  on  the  thirteenth  of  December,  in  the  year  730.**  It 
is  remarked  that  many  of  the  young  girls  of  the  region 
bear  the  name  of  Odile,  and  this  is  so  because  Saintc 
Odile  is  the  patron  saint  of  all  Alsace;  the  thirteenth  of 
December  is  the  day  of  her  fete,  and  her  tomb  on  the 
mountain  of  Sainte  Odile,  one  of  the  highest  peaks  of  the 
Vosges«  is  the  most  venerated  among  the  Alsatians. 


192 


®j$  <0nmnt  Jl^mn 


8  CANNOT  do  better  than  quote  the  description  of 
the  houses  given  so  admirably  by  M.  Anselme 
Langel : 
''The  houses  are  usually  in  two  stories;  the  first,  a  sort 
of  'rez  de  chaussee'  above  the  cellar,  contains  a  vestibule, 
from  which  mounts  the  stairs,  the  kitchen,  and  two  cham- 
bers, one  usually  with  two  windows  opening  on  the  street, 
occupied  by  the  master,  and  the  other,  much  smaller,  on 
the  inner  court.  The  interiors  are  immaculately  clean, 
the  floors  scrubbed  and  covered  with  fine  white  sand. 
The  ceilings,  with  beams  exposed,  are  of  boards  painted 
brown  and  highly  varnished.  Often  in  the  center  of  the 
room  will  be  a  wooden  post  heavily  and  lavishly  carved, 
and  sometimes  picked  out  with  rosettes  of  pale  red  or 
green  paint,  which  upholds  the  center  beam.  The  fur- 
niture of  the  principal  room  is  that  of  an  apartment  used 
jointly  as  dining  room  and  bedroom;  one  of  its  sides  is 
formed  by  a  partition  in  which  are  two  large  open-work 
carved  doors,  through  which  is  had  a  view  of  the  monu- 
mental beds,  all  hung  with  curtains  and  showing  treas- 
ures of  embroidered  sheets  and  pillow  cases.     This  is  a 

195 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

country  in  which  the  mattresses  and  pillows  assume  im- 
mense proportions,  rendering  the  ceremony  of  going  to 
bed  a  sort  of  gymnastic  performance,  not  always  enjoyed 
by  the  stranger.  Between  the  doors  of  this  apartment, 
or  alcove,  as  it  should  be  called,  stands  the  clock,  con- 
sidered one  of  the  most  important  pieces  of  household 
furniture,  upon  which  much  money  and  care  is  expended. 
'The  beating  heart  of  the  household,'  it  is  called. 
The  high  benches  affixed  to  the  walls  are  opposite  to  the 
great  table,  before  which  are  arranged  the  highly-carved 
and  painted  chairs.  In  a  corner  is  built  a  huge  press,  an 
indispensable  part  of  every  well-ordered  household. 
This  is  generally  a  superb  piece  of  cabinet  work,  and 
contains  the  trousseau  of  the  mistress  of  the  house.  It  is 
lavishly  carved  and  decorated  by  gorgeous  rosettes  and 
flowers  painted  in  red,  yellow,  blue,  green  and  gold.  A 
great  stove  of  iron  and  porcelain  occupies  a  considerable 
part  of  one  side  of  the  room,  with  large  pipes  and  carriers 
connected  with  the  beams  overhead.  Of  a  square  form 
at  base,  it  is  rounded  above  like  a  column,  and  topped  off 
by  an  urn  or  ornamental  finial.^  Above  the  stove  is  a 
rack  or  series  of  poles,  upon  which  clothes  may  be  hung  to 
dry.  Behind  the  stove  is  a  sort  of  cabinet  of  shelves, 
upon  which  are  various  pots  and  pitchers  used  in  the  cui- 
sine.    On  the  wall  usually  there  will  be  an  ornamental 

^  My  drawing  shows  such  an  interior  and  stove  as  M.  Langel  describes. 
Author. 

196 


THE  QUAINT  HOUSES 

mirror,  and  various  small  frames  containing  photographs, 
sacred  pictures,  or  the  diplomas  belonging  to  the  owners' 
military  service. 

"The  kitchen  opens  opposite  the  main  door  and  the 
small  vestibule;  it  is  generally  quite  roomy,  and  contains 
the  bin  and  the  oven  in  which  the  bread  is  baked.  The 
oven  protrudes  outside  the  wall  of  the  house  and  looks 
something  like  a  large  mushroom  growth  beneath  the  low 
eaves  of  the  roof  of  the  kitchen  extension.  Here  each 
week,  on  Saturday,  which  is  bake  day,  the  week's  supply 
of  bread  is  baked.  Opening  on  the  kitchen  is  another 
room,  where  the  young  people  may  sleep,  or  maybe  it  is 
a  sort  of  grain  house,  according  to  need.  Beside  the 
house  are  grouped  the  various  dependencies,  such  as  the 
stable,  or  carriage  house,  or  what  not. 

"The  Alsatian  houses  always  bear,  in  some  form  or 
other,  the  date  of  construction  and  the  name  or  initials 
of  the  proprietor.  The  most  ordinary  dates  seen  are 
those  of  1790  to  1825.  It  is  easy  to  see  that  following 
the  Revolution,  there  arose  in  the  soul  of  the  peasant  a 
^sentiment  of  property,'  and  he  proudly  placed  in  his 
housefront,  above  the  date,  the  name  of  his  family  or 
that  of  his  wife.  At  Schleithal,  for  example,  I  have 
found  the  following  on  a  gable:  'Anduni  Armbrust  i 
March  den  lar  Republik'  (Antoine  Armbrust  built  me  in 
the  first  year  of  the  Republic) .  This  is  a  rare  example 
of  revolutionary  notation,  for  one  finds  generally  that 

197 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

they  follow  the  calendar,  with  the  dates  simply,  such  as 
1792,  or  1794. 

"The  habitations  of  the  Lorraines  differ  radically  from 
those  of  Alsace.  In  construction  they  recall  the  merid- 
ionals, with  flat  roofs  of  tile.  The  houses  are  low,  and 
very  well  planned,  divided  curiously  in  their  length  into 
two  parts;  one  in  which  they  live,  the  other  for  what  may 
be  called  'exploitation.-  The  lodging  part  is  generally 
composed  of  two  chambers  and  a  kitchen.  There  are 
rarely  chambers  on  the  second  floor.  This  space  is  al- 
ways reserved  for  a  granary  or  storage  place.  The  end 
of  the  kitchen  is  occupied  by  an  enormous  pyramidal  open 
chimney,  in  which  is  suspended  for  curing,  pork  and  hams 
or  long  links  of  the  succulent  sausage  of  Lorraine. 
From  this  room  open  two  chambers  with  huge  mountains 
of  beds,  elaborately  trimmed  with  embroidered  quilts  and 
pillows  themselves  as  big  as  feather  beds.  The  domes- 
tics generally  sleep  either  in  the  kitchen,  or  in  the  stable 
adjoining." 

Except  in  the  more  remote  villages  of  the  provinces 
of  Alsace-Lorraine,  one  rarely  now  comes  upon  the  spin- 
ning wheel. 

Up  to  the  time  of  the  Franco-Prussian  war,  however, 
I  am  told  that  they  were  quite  commonly  in  use,  and 
formed  one  of  the  principal  occupations  for  women.  An- 
drew Lang,  writing  of  the  idyl  upon  the  distaff  in  the 
works  of  Theocritus,  says : 

198 


THE  QUAINT  HOUSES 

Distaff,  blithely  whirling  distaff,  azure-eyed  Athene's  gift, 
To  sex  the  arm  and  object  of  those  whose  lives  is  households*  thrift, 
Seek  with  me  the  gorgeous  city  raised  by  Neilus,  where  a  plain 
Roof  or  pale  green  rush  o'erarches  Aphrodite's  hallowed  fame, 
Thither  ask  I  Zeus  to  waft  me,  fain  to  see  my  old  friend's  face, 
Nicias,  o'er  whose  birth  presided  every  passion-breathing  Grace; 
Fain  to  meet  his  answering  welcome;  and  anon  deposit  thee 
In  his  lady's  hands,  thou  marvel  of  laborious  ivory. 
Many  a  manly  robe  ye'll  fashion,  and  much  floating  maiden's  gear, 
Nay,  should  e'er  the  fleecy  mothers  twice  within  the  self  same  year 
Yield  their  wool  in  yonder  pasture,  Theugenis  of  the  dainty  feet 
Would  perform  the  double  labor;  Matrons'  cares  to  her  are  sweet." 

Lang  notes  that  the  Idyl  accompanied  the  present  of  a 
distaff,  which  Theocritus  brought  home  from  Syracuse  to 
Theugenis,  wife  of  his  friend  Nicias,  the  physician  of 
Miletus.  On  the  margin  of  a  translation  by  Longpierre 
(Theocritus,  Idyl  XXVII,  translated  by  S.  C.  Calverly) 
Louis  XVI  wrote  that  this  idyl  is  a  model  of  honorable 
gallantry.*  Occasionally  now  one  will  be  found  in  a 
country  home  on  the  top  of  a  quaint  old  wardrobe,  made 
of  pear  wood  inlaid  with  ebony  and  ivory,  with  light, 
most  gracefully  fashioned  legs,  its  turned  cap  and  high 
bobbin  and  distaff  tied  with  faded  ribbons,  suggesting  a 
whole  life  of  laborious  solitude  and  peaceful  contempla- 
tion of  passing  events.  The  distaff  may  sometimes  be 
seen  in  use  at  the  present  day  in  the  household  in  the 
evening.  And  once  we  came  upon  a  girl  in  the  fields 
spinning  skeins  with  a  spindle  while  tending  her  sheep, 

*  Aadre  Theuriet. 

199 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

recalling  the  pictures  of  Bastien  Le  Page.  This  is  the 
simplest  and  most  ancient  form  of  spinning.  She  held 
in  one  hand  a  stone,  to  which  the  bunch  of  hemp  was  fas- 
tened; and  with  the  other  she  pulled  and  twisted  the 
tow,  which  she  moistened  with  saliva,  and  thus  trans- 
ferred into  thread,  winding  it  around  the  spindle,  to 
which  she  gave  a  rotating  motion. 

The  wheel  is,  of  course,  more  complicated,  the  bobbin 
taking  the  place  of  the  distaff,  while  a  pewter  cup  of 
water  fastened  to  the  post  serves  to  moisten  the  thread, 
which  is  drawn,  twisted  and  fixed  on  the  bobbin,  which 
when  filled  is  reeled  off  and  made  into  skeins  by  means  of 
an  instrument  called  the  "Giroinde,"  now  rarely  met 
with,  as  it  has  almost  entirely  vanished  as  a  piece  of  fur- 
niture. It  may  be  seen  in  Chardin's  paintings,  however. 
It  is  a  kind  of  reel,  mounted  on  a  pedestal,  and  has  the 
shape  of  a  wheel  each  spoke  of  which,  however,  is  a 
branch  terminating  in  a  vertical  pin.  This  wheel  is 
operated  by  the  hand  instead  of  the  foot,  and  the  thread 
from  the  bobbin  winds  about  the  circular  pins  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  make  the  skein.  I  am  told  that  in  the  win- 
ter the  wheel  is  used  in  the  long  evenings  when  the  young 
girls  gather  at  some  arranged  rendezvous  in  one  of  the 
large  farm  house  kitchens,  lighted  by  candles  and  oil 
lamps  supplied  by  each  comer.  Young  men  come  too, 
bringing  with  them  large  bundles  of  faggots  to  burn  in 
the  wide  fireplace,  and  baskets  of  provender  such  as 

200 


Dambach — Old  Houses  on  the  Square 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

recalling  the  pictures  of  Bastien  Le  Page.     Thi.s 
simplest  and  most  ancieat  form  of  spuming.    She  uciu 
in  one  hand  ^  ^o  which  the  bunch  of  hemp  was  fas- 

iilled  and  twisted  the 
'lus  trans- 

d  rotating  ui 
e  wheel  is,  of  course,  mori^  complicated,  the  bobbin 
taking  the  place  of  the  distaff,  while  a  pewter  cup  of 
water  fastened  to  the  post  serves  to  moisten  the  thread, 
which  is  drawn,  twisted  and  fixed  on  the  bobbin,  wh 
when  filled  is  reeled  off  and  made  into  skeins  by  means  of 
an  instrunwnt  low  rarely  met 

with,  as  '  d  as  a  r>iecc  o^  fur- 

niture ^een  in  Cha  ^  ^  ,  howcvf-r 

It  is  a  _ .,  „_^: . i  pedestal,  and  ) 

sriapc  of  a  wheel  each  spoke  of  which,  however,  . 
branch  terminating  in  a  vertical  pin.    This  wheel    o 
operated  by  the  hand  instead  of  the  foot,  and  the  thread 
from  the  bobbin  winds  about  the  circular  p*ms  in  iuch  a 
•      "'  make  *^  -  -^-^-        ^   m  told  that  in  the  win- 


UlC 

>y  candies  ana  oil 

bnagmg  wi 

the  wide  fi^^iri^\A^  m>  vv.uoH^ut^A^«(it^t^a'  ^*^h  as 

200 


.M--  % 


THE  QUAINT  HOUSES 

cheese  and  sausages  for  the  evening's  feast.  The  host 
usually  supplies  plenty  of  the  light  wine  of  the  neighbor- 
ing vineyard,  and  loaves  of  bread.  While  the  wheels  are 
humming  and  tongues  are  going,  all  the  news  of  the  re- 
gion is  exchanged.  The  births,  engagements  and  mar- 
riages, especially  the  latter,  are  discussed  at  length.  All 
the  love  affairs  of  the  region  are  twisted  and  woven  and 
tangled  into  the  skeins  on  the  bobbins.  These  are  occa- 
sions welcomed  by  the  boys  and  girls,  who  thus  come  to 
flirt  and  coquet,  the  only  chance  they  have,  indeed.  And 
here  are  told  the  best  tales  of  ghost  and  adventure,  for 
the  store  of  these  is  inexhaustible. 


201 


Brftm-Hpsi^ntt 


Cj^UST  beyond  Colmar,  overlooking  the  small  village 
II  of  Eguisheim,  which  boasts  extravagantly  of  it,  is  a 
^•^  recently  restored  palace  (but  the  inhabitants  call 
it  a  'Tfalz"  in  their  quaint  jargon)  said  to  date  back  to 
the  eighth  century.  This,  by  the  way,  was  so  scraped  of 
stone  and  shiny  with  paint  that  I  could  not  get  interested 
in  it.  The  unmistakable  marks  of  German  restoration 
were  all  over  the  place.  Then  again  the  custode,  "ap- 
pointed from  Berlin,"  he  informed  me  grandiosely,  was 
otherwise  so  offensive  that  I  turned  my  back  upon  him. 
A  mile  from  the  village  stand  the  ruins  of  the  great  three 
towered  castle  of  Hohen-Eguisheim,  generally  called  the 
Dreien-Eguisheim  or  Exen,  which  is  visible  the  country 
around. 

The  three  towers  are:  the  Dagesburg  of  the  twelfth 
century,  and  the  more  ancient  Wekmund  and  the  Wah- 
lenburg,  both  of  the  eleventh  century.  This  great  ruin 
is  the  pride  of  the  region.  For  breadth  of  horizon,  pride 
of  place  and  romance  of  lordship;  for  play  of  exquisite 
valley  and  sweep  of  line  this  stately  heritage  of  an  an- 
cient virility  really  stands  untranscended  from  Kenil- 

205 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

worth  to  Heidelberg.  One  can  hardly  exaggerate  its  im- 
portance; dominating  height  and  valley  and  poised  above 
the  quaint  village  nestling  below,  it  is  like  unto  an  old 
imperial  eagle  upon  its  nest.  If  this  mighty  ruin  is  dis- 
turbed by  the  mine  that  German  capitalists  threaten  to 
sink  beneath  its  hoary  walls,  I  can  fancy  uneasy  stirrings 
in  some  of  the  many  hidden  tombs  of  the  old  Knights, 
whose  war-weary  bones  have  here  rested  so  long  in  peace 
beneath  the  cross-emblazoned  shields  which  they  carried 
hither  from  the  Crusades.  It  is  said  that  the  Roman  set- 
tlers, ever  envious  and  greedy  of  high  places,  built  here 
their  stronghold,  upon  the  ruins  of  which  the  Knights  of 
Eguisheim  raised  these  mighty  towers.  The  Romans 
were  here,  of  course,  long  before  feoff  age  came  to  occupy 
the  region.  These  Romans  were  different  men  from 
those  who  succeeded  them ;  they  toiled  together,  man  and 
slave,  husbanding  handiwork  and  its  results  for  due  occa- 
sion. They  have  left  their  marks  all  over  this  fair  region. 
In  the  midst  of  thick  woods  one  often  comes  across  their 
stone  altars,  and  the  remains  of  their  boundary  walls. 

They  were  followed  by  the  blustering  Burgraves  of  the 
Rhine,  with  their  lavish  and  boasted  prowess,  their  noisy 
loves  and  quarrels;  their  truculent  sentimentalism,  and 
their  bloody  imitation  courage.  Their  escutcheons  gave 
name  to  many  a  thorp  hereabouts,  and  they  held  place  in 
crusade  and  council,  until  driven  out  by  the  French, 
under  whose  rule  it  prospered  and  waxed  beautiful. 

206 


DREIEN-EGUISHEIM 

French  so  it  remained,  and  so  it  is  still  and  always  will  be 
in  spirit,  no  matter  what  befalls. 

Come  with  me  along  the  winding  road  and  I  will  show 
you  first  a  world  of  dark,  undulating  rock  ground  all  clad 
in  green  herbage  and  decked  with  heather  bells,  above 
which  hangs  bristling  fir.  There  are  grassy  slopes  of 
green  and  gold  that  catch  the  sun.  All  about  are  hills 
that  stand  attendant,  veiled  in  shadow  for  a  frame.  The 
perspective  as  we  go  along  changes  like  a  mirage,  the 
great  ruin  becomes  plainer,  the  village  hides  and  discloses 
itself  coquettishly;  the  river  Laich  is  pretty  and  neces- 
sary to  the  picture.  There  are  several  red  oxen  wading 
in  it,  and  one  hears  the  sleepy  pat,  pat,  of  the  washer- 
women kneeling  on  flat  stones,  making  soapy  rings  in  the 
slow  current  of  the  stream.  A  drowsy  fisherman  leans 
against  a  tree  trunk,  careless  of  his  bobbing  cork.  There 
is  a  sugar  loaf  shaped  church  spire,  a  stone  wall,  and  a 
populous  church  yard.     Sweet  picture  I 

Now  we  leave  this  behind  and  climb  the  mount,  be- 
guiling the  way  with  all  that  we  can  recall  about  the 
lordly  owners  of  the  castle.  Perhaps  in  the  dim  past 
they  trooped  down  this  very  path,  spurring  past  on  pranc- 
ing war  horse,  accoutrements  flashing  in  the  morning  sun, 
visors,  lances,  chain  mail  all  agleam.  Mayhap  the  co- 
hort is  gathered  for  some  festa,  such  as  a  wedding  or  a 
christening ;  the  welcome  of  a  stranger  lord,  or  perhaps  an 
act  of  high  suzerainty  is  on,  such  as  the  chartering  of  an 

207 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

abbey — or  an  enfranchisement  of  Lorraine.  Alliances 
were  made  here  between  King  Henry  and  the  Duke  of 
Lorraine,  and  oaths  of  fealty  were  sworn  in  the  great 
halls  above  on  many  occasions.  Vows  to  purge  the  Holy 
Land  of  the  paynim  hordes  were  solemnly  taken  by  these 
lords  of  Eguisheim,  and  some  of  these  left  their  bones  be- 
fore the  sacred  walls.  The  legends  are  woven  into  the 
history  of  this  great  castle  like  a  cord  of  scarlet.  The 
mighty  Boufflers  battered  at  its  gates,  and  doubtless  the 
names  of  the  Knights  who  capitulated  to  him  are  in  the 
chronicles  writ  for  shame  in  scarlet  capitals  by  the  monks. 
Thereafter  its  history  is  coupled  with  the  names  of  brute 
Barons  of  ill  repute  who  occupied  the  region  when  it  was 
mangled  by  their  hordes.  Many  of  these  wonderful  old 
demesnes  fell  in  such  manner. 

A  toilsome  climb  brought  us  to  a  small  whitewashed 
house,  where  was  a  very  old,  but  bright-eyed  peasant 
woman,  who  collected  a  fee  in  advance  and  handed  us  a 
huge  key  attached  by  a  string  to  a  long  billet  of  wood. 
She  then  waved  us  away,  pointing  to  the  pathway  lead- 
ing through  the  bushes.  At  length  we  reached  a  beetling 
tower  in  which  was  a  small  door.  Unlocking  this,  we 
came  into  a  deep-fissured  donjon  with  rough,  jagged 
walls  of  huge  stones  in  which  were  rather  forbidding 
openings  leading  to  subterraneans  rarely  explored  now. 
Here  were  great  heaps  of  debris  in  which  were  fragments 
of  carved  capitals  and  floriated  mouldings  of  beautiful 

208 


DREIEN-EGUISHEIM 

character.  Looking  upwards  one  saw  mullions  of  win- 
dows, now  empty  of  tracery,  and  the  abutting  supports 
of  escutcheoned  chimney-pieces.  Here  once  clanked  sil- 
ver spurs,  and  rustled  cloth  of  gold;  here  sparkled 
gems,  rattled  and  clinked  tall  beakers;  here  oaths  were 
sworn. 

Leaning  in  the  embrasure  of  one  of  the  §lender  lance- 
like windows,  one  was  confronted  with  an  enchanting 
vista;  the  whole  fronting  gorge  from  foreground  to  dis- 
tance is  the  castle's  own.  Right  and  left  the  valley  rolls 
away  and  northward  closes  the  gateway;  southward  is  a 
vivid  green  sea  of  wavy  table  lands,  and  farther  on  one 
great  dull  green  billow  where  another  ruined  castle  up- 
bears itself  against  a  sky  heavily  piled  with  cumulus 
cloud. 

The  old  custode  showed  us,  in  her  hut  below,  a  great 
bound  volume  clasped  with  brass  and  fastened  by  a  chain 
to  the  wall.  It  was  a  manuscript  register  of  vellum 
sheets  minutely  inscribed  and  here  and  there  quaintly  in- 
itialed. It  seemed  to  be  the  steward's  accounts  of  the 
castle,  as  well  as  I  could  make  out,  but  it  was  in  such  bad 
repair  from  age,  moisture  and  dirt  that  I  could  make  lit- 
tle sense  of  it,  even  if  I  could  have  read  it  fluently,  which 
I  could  not.  I  did,  however,  make  out  some  noble  names 
and  titles,  as  well  as  statements  as  to  the  sale  of  cattle, 
and  expenses  for  repairs.  There  was,  too,  an  immense 
illuminated  family  tree,  and  this  was  folded  several 

209 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

times,  so  that  it  was  fairly  in  rags.  Into  this  volume  were 
bound  a  large  number  of  sheets  of  paper  upon  which  ap- 
preciative travellers  had  written  their  names  and  com- 
ments. I  am  bound  to  confess  that  we  did  likewise  and 
paid  the  fee.  And  now  for  the  legend — never  mind  how 
I  had  it. 

The  tale  is  told  thus:  In  days  gone  by  a  wicked 
Knight  Otto  dwelt  here,  who  was  forever  preying  upon 
or  quarrelling  with  the  neighboring  nobles.  But  one  re- 
deeming trait  had  he,  according  to  report,  in  his  love 
for  his  daughter,  Ermintrude,  who  was  as  gentle  as  her 
sire  was  ill-tempered.  As  he  was  the  curse  of  the  coun- 
try-side, so  was  she  its  darling  pride.  It  chanced  one  day 
that  it  was  reported  to  Otto  that  the  Seigneur  Nicolas  had 
called  him  an  inelegant  archaic  name  which  cannot  be 
written  here,  but  which  may  be  imagined.  So  the  very 
next  day,  when  Nicolas  was  hunting  in  the  forest  and 
separated  from  his  followers,  he  all  at  once  was  dragged 
from  his  horse  and  bound  and  gagged,  by  Otto's  men,  car- 
ried to  Eguisheim  and  cast  into  an  oubliette,  where  lay 
this  doughty  lord  languishing  for  many  a  day  upon  a  heap 
of  mouldy  straw,  awaiting  the  pleasure  of  Otto.  Came 
a  day  when,  having  long  given  himself  up  for  very  de- 
spair, he  had  prepared  to  die.  All  at  once  he  heard  the 
sound  of  a  softly-drawn  bolt,  and,  glancing  upwards, 
he  beheld  the  heavy  oaken  plank  open,  and  there,  all 
aureoled  like  unto  a  very  Saint,  in  a  flood  of  strong  light 

210 


DREIEN-EGUISHEIM 

that  streamed  down  upon  the  hapless  Seigneur,  he  looked 
into  the  sweet  face  of  the  Lady  Ermintrude. 

Removing  the  plank  she  stepped  lightly  down  the 
rungs  of  the  iron  ladder  and  knelt  at  the  side  of  the  Seig- 
neur Nicolas,  saying,  "My  father  is  at  the  hunt  to-day, 
and  I  am  come  in  pity  to  set  you  free,  that  your  blood  be 
not  upon  his  head,"  saying  which  she  brought  forth  a 
large  file  and  set  about  severing  the  chain  at  his  waist, 
which  held  him  fast  to  the  wall.  He,  ever  praying  to  her 
his  thanks  in  broken  sentences,  gazed  upon  her  lovely 
face,  as  if  it  had  been  truly  that  of  a  Holy  Angel  rather 
than  that  of  a  lovely,  wilful  red-cheeked  maid  with 
braided  yellow  hair  like  spun  gold.  So  when  the  heavy 
iron  band  had  at  length  been  sawn  through,  up  rose  the 
Seigneur  Nicolas  painfully  to  his  feet,  and  then,  all  at 
once  prostrated  himself  at  the  feet  of  the  maiden,  seizing 
rapturously  the  hem  of  her  embroidered  gown  and  kissing 
it  as  if  he  would  never  leave  off.  Dirty  and  unkempt  as 
he  was,  she  thought  him  handsome,  and  with  a  blush  she 
drew  away,  saying :  "Haste — haste  away !  You've  not 
an  instant  to  lose,"  and  Nicolas  obeyed  her,  "but,"  says 
the  chronicle,  "with  great  reluctance,  so  much  was  he 
taken  with  her  angel  beauty." 

Once  safe  away,  and  in  his  castle  among  his  brave  and 
doughty  followers,  he  and  they  decreed  that  their  pa- 
tience with  Otto  being  at  an  end,  they  must  burn  this 
wild  boar.  Otto,  in  his  den,  if  they  could  not  capture  him 

211 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

alive.  Nicolas  called  upon  the  neighboring  lords  for 
help,  and  they,  being  tired  of  Otto  and  all  his  works,  will- 
ingly and  cheerfully  joined  Nicolas.  Early  the  follow- 
ing morning  a  great  troop  of  mounted  horsemen  emerged 
upon  the  road  leading  up  to  the  gates  of  Eguisheim. 
Among  these  were  the  high  lords  of  Albourg,  Hels,  Wis- 
sen,  Crey,  Assembal,  and  Echt.  At  their  head  rode 
Nicolas  upon  a  big  white  horse. 

Otto  regarded  them  thoughtfully  from  the  tower  win- 
dow, stroking  his  blue-black  beard  with  a  somewhat  un- 
steady hand,  for  his  head  still  throbbed  with  the  deep 
libations  of  the  night  before.  Then  he  glowered  upon 
his  followers,  "Let  down  the  bridge,"  he  growled,  "let's 
see  if  they  dare  to  come  up — ^I — "  What  more  he 
would  have  said  is  unknown,  for  he  never  finished.  Out 
of  the  tail  of  his  eye  he  caught  sight  of  Nicolas  mounted 
upon  the  great  white  horse,  at  the  head  of  the  cavalcade, 
— Nicolas,  whom  he  thought  safely  chained  by  the  waist 
to  the  floor  of  his  dungeon  deep  below  the  castle  walls  I 
With  a  howl  of  anger  he  rushed  to  the  court,  pulled  away 
the  plank,  and  seizing  a  fire-brand  threw  it  down  into  the 
oubliette.  Of  course  it  was  empty.  Then  all  at  once 
the  truth  dawned  upon  him, — his  daughter,  Ermintrude. 
He  rushed  upon  her  where  she  stood  among  her  women  at 
the  stairway,  and  dragging  her  away  by  the  hair,  threw 
her  down  into  the  dungeon  where  Nicolas  had  lain  so 
long. 

212 


i^VtiVV  [L/l^^WkJ 


DREIEN-EGUISHEIM 

The  chronicle  says  that  he  cursed  them  both,  and  that 
it  was  a  long  and  bitter  battle  that  was  fought  ere  the 
castle  was  entered.  But  finally  it  was  surrendered  to  the 
forces  of  Nicolas,  the  torch  was  put  to  it,  and  Otto — ^hung 
by  the  heels  in  chains — was  about  to  receive  the  "stroke 
of  mercy*'  at  the  hands  of  his  conqueror,  who  instead  said 
to  him,  "Where  is  Ermintrude*?  Tell  me  truly  and  I 
spare  thy  life,  and  even  set  thee  free."  But  Otto,  his 
yellow  and  bloodshot  eyes  gleaming  viciously,  gritted  his 
teeth  and  defiantly  growled  out,  "She  is  where  I  had  thee, 
thou — I"  "With  me,  warriors!"  shouted  Nicolas  to  his 
men ;  and  thus  into  the  blazing  ruin  of  falling  walls  and 
timbers  and  running  streams  of  molten  lead,  went  the 
valiant  Nicolas  to  join  the  fair  Ermintrude,  "and  may 
their  souls  ever  rest  in  Paradise."     So  ends  the  chronicle. 

There  is,  however,  it  seems,  another  and  much  happier 
ending  to  this  tale,  which  Lady  Anne  had  from  the  lips 
of  her  neighbor  at  the  table  d'hote,  from  whom  she  gath- 
ered much  information  regarding  the  region.  This  ver- 
sion had  it  that  many  years  afterwards,  when  the  old 
tower  had  been  repaired  and  Nicolas  and  Ermintrude, 
with  their  children,  were  seated  in  the  great  court  enjoy- 
ing the  afternoon  sun,  to  them  one  day  came  a  venerable 
and  travel-stained  old  man,  to  beg  shelter  and  forgive- 
ness of  those  he  had  wronged,  and  that  he  might  end  his 
days  in  peace  and  good  works  in  the  service  of  God.  It 
was  the  once  fierce  and  ungodly  Knight  Otto,  who  had 

213 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

escaped  from  his  captors,  and  gone  to  the  Holy  Land 
with  the  Crusaders,  where  he  had  been  converted  to 
Christianity.  Returning  thus  repentant,  he  was  wel- 
comed by  his  daughter  Ermintrude  and  forgiven  by  Nico- 
las. The  tale  has  it  that  he  lived  long  and  happily  with 
them,  and  was  known  and  loved  the  country  round  for 
his  piety  and  good  works.  Thus  one  may  take  one's 
choice  of  these  endings. 

The  lords  of  this  great  castle  were  lords  indeed. 
Paladin  or  Suzerain  could  not  govern  more  absolutely 
than  they.  They  owed  allegiance  only  to  the  Emperor, 
and  even  this  formed  but  a  loose  shackle  that  bound 
these  marauding  lords  and  barons  to  the  throne.  Thus 
the  whilom  lord  who  ruled  here  was  at  once  Seigneur, 
Lord  High  Justice  of  provostry  and  town,  Chief  Elector, 
leader  of  all  ecclesiastical  officers  and  dignitaries,  and 
governor  in  Council  of  State.  In  times  of  peace,  when 
there  were  such,  the  people  lived,  it  is  gravely  stated  in 
the  chronicles,  ''most  happy  and  contented  under  such 
protection."  Then  it  came  to  pass  that  ambitious 
Bishops  and  Abbots  aspired  to  high  powers.  Priests 
overflowed  the  region,  particularly  Lotharingia  (Loth- 
arii  Regnum) .  Great  abbatial  castles  were  built,  really 
fortified  churches;  and  harvests  were  gathered  to  the 
sound  of  ringing  "Te  Deums." 

'These  holy  men,"  the  Emperor  Charles  the  Fourth  is 
declared  to  have  said,  "no  less  for  the  renown  of  their 

214 


DREIEN-EGUISHEIM 

virtue  than  for  the  merit  of  their  piety,  shine  illustrious 
throughout  the  universe."  Once  the  great  Charlemagne, 
with  his  usual  high-handedness,  appeared  here  at  one  of 
these  abbatial  fortresses  and  amused  himself  by  adminis- 
tering its  offices  for  a  period.  But  this  form  of  amuse- 
ment proved  often  the  undoing  of  its  devotees.  The 
wearing  of  the  mitre  in  the  name  of  the  cross,  so  attrac- 
tive to  ambitious  nobles  for  its  peculiar  power,  led  to  its 
particular  punishment.  In  old  paintings  in  the  museums 
may  be  seen  the  ceremonies  presided  over  by  these  ambi- 
tious princes,  who  wield  the  cross  installed  in  all  the 
pomp  of  the  chair  abbatial.  This  excited  the  spleen  and 
envy  of  other  powerful  but  less  fortunate  nobles,  among 
them  Siegfried,  Count  of  Luxembourg,  who  at  length 
induced  the  Emperor  to  turn  them  out,  and  restore  the 
properties  to  the  monks.  The  great  castle  and  its  abbey, 
stacked  and  piled  with  wealth  and  filled  with  countless 
treasures  of  art  and  precious  objects  brought  to  its 
treasury  from  age  to  age  by  both  prince  and  pilgrim,  be- 
came an  object  of  desire,  a  very  mine  for  depredation,  so 
that  again  and  again  it  was  attacked  and  pillaged.  More 
than  once,  'tis  said,  in  the  fifteenth  century,  it  was  be- 
sieged and  sacked  by  the  Prince  Archbishops  of  Treves, 
who  turned  it  into  a  camp  and  arsenal.  Albert  of  Bran- 
denberg  set  it  on  fire.  The  Dutch  troops  held  it  for  a 
period  in  the  sixteenth  century,  levying  a  tax  upon  it  of 
five  thousand  crowns  in  lieu  of  destroying  it,  and  the  sol- 

215 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

diers  of  Louis  XIV  left  upon  its  walls  traces  of  their  oc- 
cupancy. Then  the  Revolution  blasted  the  walls,  scat- 
tered the  faithful  followers  of  the  reigning  baron,  blew 
up  the  great  donjons,  and  in  the  smoke,  fire  and  dust  dis- 
appeared the  wonderful  works  of  art,  the  great  library, 
and  all  that  made  Dreien-Eguisheim  mighty,  leaving  the 
dismantled  shell  on  this  cliff  as  one  now  beholds  it. 


2l6 


^rWm 


StrftdFim 


BT  was  in  the  plain  between  Colmar  and  Tiirckheim 
that  the  great  Turenne  surprised  and  defeated  the 
Imperial  German  army  on  the  5th  of  January, 
1675.  The  German  forces,  anticipating  no  battle  until 
spring,  had  gone  into  winter  quarters  here,  and  Turenne's 
strategic  attack,  delivered  with  all  the  forces  at  his  com- 
mand, drove  the  Germans  across  the  Rhine  and  regained 
Alsace. 

Tiirckheim  is  now  a  sleepy  little  old  walled  town 
of  about  twenty-five  hundred  inhabitants.  The  little 
town  is  fairly  soused  in  wine,  for  one  of  the  very  best  of 
the  vintages  of  Alsace  is  produced  from  its  vineyards.  It 
has  a  remarkable  old  gateway  named  the  "Porte  Basse," 
a  creamy  old  stone  tower,  with  four  corbel  towers,  one  at 
each  corner,  and  a  conical  red  tiled  roof,  topped  with  a 
huge  ragged  stork's  nest.  The  tower  is  ornamented  with 
emblazoned  shields  and  coats  of  arms  done  in  vermilion 
and  gold,  and  just  over  the  arched  entrance,  bearing  the 
dates  1313-1889,  is  the  sprawled  out  heraldic  black  eagle 
of  Prussia — an  eyesore  to  the  loyal  French  inhabitants. 
We  had  intended  to  make  our  headquarters  at  the  "Deux 
Clefs,"  but  when  Lady  Anne  beheld  this  lovely  old  gate- 

219 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

way,  with  its  gilded  sun  dial,  and  the  quaint  shadowed 
arch  through  which  the  peasants  came  and  went,  she  de- 
cided to  engage  the  upper  room  with  the  balcony  shown 
at  the  left  of  my  drawing.  The  house  was  named  the 
"Storchen,"  and  kept  by  a  bright-eyed  old  lady  whom  I 
painted  in  the  picture  (frontispiece)  called  "Over  the 
teacups." 

Those  were  sunny  days  we  spent  at  Tiirckheim,  under 
skies  as  blue  and  clear  as  an  awakening  infant's  eyes,  and 
each  and  every  old  spire  and  tower  a  beckoning  and  invit- 
ing point  of  light.  We  found  no  other  such  old  town  as 
this  in  our  wanderings;  never  was  perhaps  such  a  strange 
medley  of  ancient  walls  and  turrets,  dim  narrow  lanes 
and  streets,  rambling  between  high  walls,  where  old  oaken 
doors  led  into  peaceful  gardens  all  trellised  and  vine- 
clad;  ancient  statued  Saints,  rippling  fountains,  and  the 
sudden  cold  exhalations  from  cask-piled  cellars.  We 
roamed  these  tortuous  streets  between  amorphous  houses 
with  their  aged  carven  doors  surmounted  by  strange  old 
trade  emblems.  Some  of  the  houses  had  overhanging 
stories,  and  there  were  odd  little  buildings  on  rough  cob- 
bled market  places  where  old  leaden  fountains  trickled 
and  wept.  There  was  an  old  hall,  a  "Dingstuhl,"  they 
called  it,  where  market  women  called  out  their  chickens 
and  vegetables  on  market  day.  There  was,  too,  a  small 
"Hospice";  an  age-worn  haven  of  rest,  the  gift  of  Er- 
mintrude  to  her  Saint.     The  Sans  Culottes  spared  it. 

220 


I:; 


^^itiii-m  *S^i^<^^-; 


La.  To^fe  Oftssf . 
"Tur  k  ri  e  m, . 


•    •• 
•  •••••"  e 


TURCKHEIM 

Although  it  was  unusual,  the  Mother  Superior,  a  most 
charming  and  dignified  lady,  invited  Lady  Anne  and  the 
writer  to  visit  it.  Behind  its  ivied  wall  was  a  little  row 
of  hoary  dwellings;  a  narrow  courtyard,  the  sacrosanct;  a 
tiny  chapel,  and  some  contented  dotards  dozing  and 
blinking  in  the  warm  sun. 

In  the  old  church  the  place  spirit  speaks  at  once  a  per- 
fect peace,  and  all  about  the  hallowed  spot  is  tender,  ex- 
uberant green,  drooping  its  soft  mantle  of  leaves  over 
thronging  red-tiled  roofs;  beyond  are  gardens,  pastures, 
vineyards,  'til  the  plains  begin  their  gentle  slope  to  where, 
along  the  jagged  sky  line,  pine  spires  flaunt  against  the 
blue.  Whatever  curious  beauty  is  in  old  gables,  what- 
ever charm  one  can  find  in  valuing  them,  is  here  to  be 
found  to  the  last  degree. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  valley  there  is  a  charming  lit- 
tle village  called  Winzenheim,  above  which  is  the  ancient 
remains  of  the  castle  of  Hohlandsburg,  now  consisting  of 
little  more  than  a  vast  heap  of  stones  covered  with  be- 
flowered  vines.  There  is  also,  or  was  in  19 lO,  a  most 
delightful  if  somewhat  down-at-heel  Inn,  mismanaged 
by  one  Monsieur  Keeler-Beeler,  who  there  calmly  pur- 
sued the  even  tenor  of  his  high-minded  existence  all  un- 
moved by  events,  while  the  world  rolled  'round,  survey- 
ing all  happenings  whatsoever  with  untroubled  mind, 
elevated  brows  and  cynic  eye;  who  shrugged  his  shoulders 
at  the  demands  of  the  uniformed  tax  collector,   yet 

221 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

handed  over  clinking  coin  unemotionally,  at  least  as  far 
as  one  could  judge  of  his  feelings.  This  cynic  eye  en- 
compassed the  writer  seated  on  the  vine-clad  small  bal- 
cony, the  afternoon  of  our  arrival  by  malle-post.  After 
an  interval  of  silent,  bovine-like  gaze  which  penetrated, 
passed  through  me  and  enveloped  Lady  Anne,  who  ap- 
peared in  the  window  behind, — he  removed  his  hat  and 
asked:  "Would  'Mossie,'  and  the  Gracious  Madame 
compliment  him  by  tasting  the  famous  'Rangener"?" — 
adding  that  its  flavor  is  never  to  be  forgotten.  We 
would,  and  did.     He  was  right,  too. 

At  this  Inn  dwelt  in  amity  a  small  coterie  of  painters 
who,  we  were  told,  came  here  year  after  year,  for  love  of 
the  region.  I  do  not  know  anything  of  their  industry  in 
art, — they  seemed  not  to  toil,  but  they  certainly  were  al- 
ways promptly  in  their  places  when  our  host  rang  the 
dinner  gong.  Four  francs  fifty  a  day,  everything  in- 
cluded, held  them  here  hugging  their  chains.  Why  not*? 
— when  there  were  to  be  had  such  omelettes !  such  fish  I — 
and  occasionally  a  glass  of  the  never  to  be  forgotten 
"Rangener."  Four  days  the  spell  held  us,  and  Lady 
Anne  skilfully  extracted  a  legend  of  the  mountain  from 
the  taciturn  inn-keeper.  It  seems  that  high  upon  the  top 
of  the  Mount,  where  sprawls  the  misshapen  ruin  of  Hoh- 
landsburg  is,  or  was,  a  little  old  hermitage  cut  out  of  the 
solid  rock.  Once  upon  a  time,  in  the  days  of  the 
Romans,  a  certain  holy  eremite  dwelt  here  in  piety  and 

222 


TURCKHEIM 

poverty.  His  name  was  Postumius  (or  something  like 
it) ,  and  for  a  companion  he  had  a  pet  hare,  to  which  he 
was  devoted.  With  it  he  shared  his  frugal  meals,  and  by 
night  it  lay  beside  him  upon  his  poor  bed  of  leaves  and 
moss.  In  those  days  there  was  here  in  the  valley  a  great 
Monastery,  presided  over  by  a  Holy  Abbot.  One  dark 
and  stormy  night  this  Abbot  sent  for  a  young  monk,  and 
as  penance  for  some  infraction  of  the  rules  of  the  monas- 
tery, ordered  him  to  climb  the  Hohlandsburg  to  the  her- 
mit's cave  in  all  the  wind  and  rain,  and  bring  back  with 
him  the  hermit's  cord,  worn  about  his  waist,  as  evidence 
that  he  had  accomplished  the  task. 

The  young  monk — ^he  was  hardly  more  than  a  novice 
— set  out  obediently,  and  after  a  long  and  wearisome  toil, 
reached  the  hermit's  cave  after  midnight.  The  holy  man 
was  absent  upon  some  mission  of  mercy,  but  the  door  was 
open,  and  there,  lying  upon  the  rude  pallet,  was  the  pet 
hare.  The  young  monk  entered  and  sitting  down  on  the 
pallet,  snapped  his  fingers  at  the  gentle  beast,  which  con- 
fidingly went  to  him  and  climbed  into  his  lap,  thinking 
no  evil  of  a  young  monk.  The  youth  caressed  it  and  it 
lay  there  contentedly.  An  hour  passed,  in  which  he  twice 
trimmed  the  rude  oil  lamp  that  burned  beside  the  pallet, 
casting  flickering  and  wavering  strangely  shaped 
shadows  on  the  earthen  walls  and  rock  ceiling  of  the 
cave.  All  was  silent  but  the  rush  of  the  wind.  All  sud- 
denly the  Spirit  of  Evil  entered  into  the  young  monk;  he 

223 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

whipped  out  his  knife  and  cut  off  one  of  the  poor  hare's 
soft  paws,  which  the  devil  persuaded  him  was  what  the 
Abbot  wished  him  to  bring  back  to  the  monastery. 
Flinging  the  poor  bleeding  hare  upon  the  pallet,  he  set 
off  in  the  darkness  down  the  winding,  rocky  and  danger- 
ous path  to  the  valley  below. — He  was  never  seen  after- 
wards. 

When  the  holy  hermit  returned  in  the  morning  he 
found  the  poor  hare  sitting  patiently  upon  the  pallet, 
holding  up  a  still  bleeding  stump.  Filled  with  grief  and 
great  compassion,  the  hermit  bound  up  the  wound  with 
simple  herbs,  after  which  he  bade  the  animal  go  seek  its 
missing  paw.  The  hare  limped  away  down  the  stony 
pathway  to  the  valley,  where  it  circled  unceasingly  about 
the  great  monastery  walls,  regularly  appearing  at  the 
gateway  and  begging  for  admission,  but  although  the 
watchman  on  the  tower  saw  the  small  beast  coming  and 
going,  and  sitting  up  on  its  haunches  holding  the 
wounded  paw  so  that  it  might  be  plainly  seen,  it  never 
occurred  to  him  that  it  was  other  than  a  tame  hare 
strayed  from  the  village,  and  he  gave  it  no  heed.  So, 
unable  to  gain  admittance,  the  poor  animal  limped  away 
and  returned  to  the  hermit.  But  in  the  meantime  that 
aged  holy  man,  exhausted  by  his  long  vigils  and  his  priva- 
tions, had  succumbed  to  the  rigors  of  the  stormy  night, 
and  lay  dead  upon  the  pallet  of  leaves  in  the  cave.  To 
him  crept  the  poor  hare,  who,  failing  to  rouse  his  beloved 

224 


TURCKHEIM 

master,  la)'  down  beside  him  and  died.  Since  then,  these 
many  hundred  years,  on  one  certain  night  of  the  year 
when  it  usually  storms,  and  the  rain  beats  down  upon  old 
Hohlandsburg,  the  poor  hare  may  be  seen  by  whomsoever 
is  out  on  the  road,  limping  along  over  the  stony  way,  seek- 
ing her  missing  paw.  "As  for  me,"  concluded  the  inn- 
keeper, "of  course,  I  have  not  seen  her  myself,  but  many 
of  the  old  inhabitants  will  tell  Madame  that  they  have 
of  a  surety  seen  the  limping  hare  of  Hohlandsburg,  and 
who  shall  say  that  they  are  untruthful  1" 

This  legend  of  the  hare  has  several  variations;  here  is 
another  of  perhaps  greater  picturesqueness :  "In  the 
tenth  century,  when  the  holy  and  learned  Theofrid  gov- 
erned the  abbey  and  by  his  example  made  all  to  venerate 
him,  there  dwelt  in  a  vast  cavern  on  the  mountain  top, 
the  exact  location  of  which  is  now  unknown,  a  very  ter- 
rible old  magician  and  sorcerer  of  most  dreadful  mien, 
called  Schlattzele  or  Spattzele,  one  or  the  other.  His 
only  purpose  in  life  was  to  illtreat  those  who  come  near 
him.  And  should  no  one  come  near  him,  he  would  go 
in  pursuit  of  a  victim.  He  hated  all  men,  but  particu- 
larly monks  and  holy  men,  because  Theofrid  had  regen- 
erated the  people  throughout  the  region  and  saved  their 
souls  from  perdition. 

"Thus  through  this  magician,  misfortune  fell  upon  one 
after  the  other  of  the  God-fearing  and  industrious 
farmers  of  the  region.     Their  cattle  sickened  and  died; 

225 


ALSACE-LORPIAINE 

their  crops,  when  ready  for  the  harvest,  were  mysteriously 
attacked  by  blight,  or  when  harvested  laboriously,  were 
burned  in  the  night.  The  vineyards  were  ruined  by 
avalanches  of  stones,  which  descended  during  storms  and 
obliterated  them.  The  bending  fruit  trees  were  up- 
rooted by  fierce  windstorms  and  howling  hurricanes, 
under  cover  of  darkness,  and  the  peaceful,  winding  river 
rose,  bursting  its  banks,  and  flooded  the  level  fields, 
sweeping  away  farmsteads  and  drowning  the  cattle. 
Fevers  attacked  the  people,  who  died  of  them  despite  the 
simples  and  prayers  of  the  monks.  And  finally  appeared 
wild  beasts  and  fierce  bands  of  wolves,  who  devoured  the 
sheep  and  even  carried  off  women  and  children. 

"So  the  people  came  to  the  abbey  asking  the  holy  Theo- 
f rid  to  intercede  in  their  behalf,  that  they  might  be  deliv- 
ered from  this  terrible  curse  which  had  fallen  upon  them. 
So  Theofrid  prayed  unto  the  Lord,  not  for  himself,  but 
for  his  people,  that  they  might  be  delivered  from  the 
curse.  And  he  named  the  name  of  the  sorcerer.  And 
the  Lord  barkened  unto  Theofrid,  who  did  not  pray  for 
himself,  or  for  his  monks,  but  for  his  people.  And  He 
delivered  the  people  from  the  curse  of  the  sorcerer,  so  that 
they  had  peace  thereafter.  But  the  evil  sorcerer  did  then 
turn  his  entire  attention  upon  the  holy  Theofrid  and  did 
torment  him  grievously. 

"All  at  once  a  great  black,  hairy  animal,  in  form  like 
unto  a  cat,  haunted  the  cell  of  the  holy  man  while  he  was 

226 


TURCKHEIM 

at  prayer.  How  it  entered  was  impossible  to  say,  but 
bolts  and  bars  hindered  it  not.  This  beast  would  walk 
about  the  kneeling  Theofrid,  with  tail  erect,  purring 
softly  and  often  rubbing  against  the  terrified  man.  He 
found  it  impossible  to  fix  his  mind  upon  his  prayers,  for 
the  most  terrible,  and  hideous,  and  sinful  thoughts  filled 
his  mind.  Even  at  holy  mass  the  words  he  uttered  were 
often  not  those  of  the  sacred  office,  but  diabolical  chants 
and  exorcisms  took  their  place.  And  often  in  the  middle 
of  the  night  he  heard  the  sound  of  rubbing  and  soft  push- 
ing against  the  barred  door  of  his  cell,  so  he  was  com- 
pelled to  cover  his  ears  that  he  might  not  hear,  for  he  was 
strangely  impelled  to  arise  and  open  the  door. 

*'He  realized  that  he  was  being  bewitched.  For  in  the 
great  chained  book  kept  in  the  abbey,  all  fairly  written 
by  the  monkish  chronicler,  was  a  tale  of  black  art,  and 
also  the  means  of  overcoming  it.  And  he  studied  this 
book  and  mastered  it,  so  that  he  knew  it  well,  for  Theo- 
frid was  a  man  of  parts,  and  skill,  and  resource.  Kneel- 
ing down  one  morning  at  daybreak  in  his  cell,  after  a 
night  spent  in  terror  and  resistance,  he  prayed  unto  the 
Lord  for  assistance,  and  then  he  rose  from  his  knees  in  re- 
solve. That  night  he  fastened  one  end  of  a  strong,  fine 
cord  into  a  cunning  noose,  and  this  he  placed  just  out- 
side his  door  on  the  stone  flagging  and  waited.  In  the 
middle  of  the  night  he  heard  again  the  sounds  of  purring 
and  the  rubbing  of  a  soft  body  against  the  door.     Theo- 

227 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

frid,  reciting  the  exorcism,  seized  the  cord  and  gave  it  a 
firm,  quick  pull;  he  felt  the  noose  tighten  and  heard  the 
"thud"  of  a  heavy  body.  Then  he  gave  a  mighty  pull  at 
the  cord  and  there  came  a  horrid  scream,  and  then  another, 
sounding  farther  away;  finally  these  cries  ceased.  Theo- 
frid  opened  the  door  and  there  in  the  noose  he  found  a 
bloody,  hairy  paw  cut  completely  off  above  the  joint. 
Theofrid  built  a  huge  fire,  in  which  he  burned  the  paw, 
and  scattered  the  ashes  to  the  winds,  as  was  right  and 
proper  under  such  a  circumstance.  For  the  directions  in 
books  of  magic  specifically  state  that  in  case  you  mutilate 
a  horrid  magician  or  sorcerer,  you  must  destroy  the  part 
with  fire,  for  he  cannot  then  by  his  black  art  get  back  his 
human  form  until  you  restore  to  him  the  part  of  which 
you  deprived  him,  and  thus  he  ever  after  remains  in  the 
guise  which  he  assumed  to  do  you  ill.  Of  course  then, 
tTheofrid,  knowing  that,  did  as  I  have  related,  and  the 
sorcerer,  deprived  of  his  power  for  evil  doing,  so  it  is  said, 
in  the  form  of  a  limping,  glowering  beast,  still  slinks 
about  the  mountain  top,  trying  to  find  the  bones  of  his 
missing  foot." 

Here  in  this  mountainous  region  all  is  different  from 
the  gentler  southern  hills  and  valleys,  for  these  are  the 
dim  pine-clad  forests,  in  which  the  sturdy  peasantry 
fought  the  usurper  for  the  right  to  be  French  and  remain 
so.  These  old  towns  and  villages  cluster  about  the  castle 
and  abbey-crowned  crags,   embayed  in  the  sweeping, 

228 


TURCKHEIM 

faultless  crescents  of  gleaming  streams,  and  each  ap- 
proached from  either  side  by  long  parabolas  of  lush  green 
valley  and  meadow. 

The  peculiar  charm  of  these  Alsatian  village  nests  lies 
in  their  curving,  vine-clad,  creamy-walled  streets  and 
lanes.  In  some  of  them  the  huddled  houses  lie  in  deep 
natural  trenches  below  the  castles'  grim  walls,  and  the 
streets  curve  naturally  with  the  river's  curve.  From 
these  walls  one  looks  down  upon  the  crescent  of  peaceful 
homesteads,  from  which  blended  sounds  float  upward  to 
the  ear;  the  tinkle  of  a  smith's  hammer,  the  chatter  of 
birds,  the  soft  lowing  of  distant  oxen,  all  merged,  as 
Lady  Anne  poetically  expressed  it,  like  unto  the  muffled 
melody  in  a  sea  shell.  These  towns  and  villages  are 
draped  monuments  to  the  loyalty  of  the  Alsace-Lor- 
rainers.  \Vhen  the  usurper  annexed  these  provinces,  he 
took  instant  measures  to  reduce  the  hapless  inhabitants 
to  a  condition  compared  with  which  feudal  vassalage  had 
its  advantages.  Not  only  was  personal  liberty  and  opin- 
ion suppressed,  but  upon  their  sacred  customs  was  im- 
posed the  shadow  of  the  Prussian  eagle.  On  these  moun- 
tain slopes  was  enacted  an  agonizing  drama.  Families 
were  uprooted  and  fled  across  the  frontier,  leaving  com- 
fort for  penury  and  privation.  Terrible  stories  of  this 
period  are  still  related  by  the  peasants  on  both  sides  of 
the  border. 

One  Alsatian  patriot  of  1871  is  said  to  have  escaped 

229 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

to  a  forest,  where  he  discovered  a  large  hollow  tree  into 
which  he  descended.  When  after  a  period  he  fancied  his 
pursuers  gone,  and  the  way  clear,  he  tried  to  climb  out, 
but  found  that  the  sides  sloped  upwards  and  there  was 
nothing  which  offered  purchase  to  hand  or  foot.  There 
he  remained  famished.  He  shouted  for  help  as  loudly  as 
he  could,  but  no  help  came.  When  the  peasants  heard 
him  they  thought  of  evil  spirits  in  the  wood  and  hastened 
away  from  the  spot  in  terror.  For  days,  then,  the  unfor- 
tunate man  must  have  shouted  for  the  help  that  never 
came.  "Only  last  year,"  said  my  informer,  "the  'Schlit- 
teurs*  (wood  cutters)  cut  down  the  great  hollow  tree  and 
found  huddled  in  the  cavity  at  its  base  a  mouldered 
skeleton,  the  fragments  of  a  French  gun,  and  a  small 
sum  of  silver  and  copper  money." 


230 


d^ 


Witm 


aT  the  mouth  of  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Thur, 
where  the  dark- wooded  mountains  enclose  it  with 
heavy  forests  above  and  smiling  golden  vineyards 
in  the  slopes  below,  is  Thann.  On  the  left  bank  of  the 
river  the  ruin  of  a  great  castle  crowns  the  wooded  hill- 
top, commanding  the  busy  town,  the  winding  river, 
crossed  by  two  bridges,  and  the  entrance  to  the  valley. 
This  great  ruin  is  the  Engelburg,  which  was  destroyed 
by  Turenne  in  the  year  1674,  ^^^  ^^^  resembles  some- 
what the  bulk  of  a  huge  cask,  or  the  base  of  a  great  stool, 
used  by  a  gray  old  giant  who  gathered  his  worldly  goods 
about  him  on  the  hilltop  and  there  sat  during  the  attack. 
In  truth  it  was  a  stronghold  long  before  the  lord  of 
Engelburg  (Angel's  Fortress)  seized  the  site  for  his  cas- 
tle. The  Roman  settlers,  ever  covetous  of  high  places, 
''Epris  des  hauteurs,"  built  a  fortress  and  refuge  there 
long  before  feoffage  arrived.  They  were  higher  men 
than  any  that  came  after,  and,  trusting  in  their  wary 
eyes,  husbanded  hand's  toil  and  body's  sweat  for  due 
occasion.  There  are  ancient  Roman  Gallic  names  all 
over  the  Province,  along  the  water  sheds  marking  off  the 

233 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

tribal  borders  and  boundaries.  After  these  came  the 
blustering  burgraves  with  their  lavish  prowess,  noisy 
loves  and  hates,  and  blood-thirsty  sentimentalism,  and 
from  these  were  named  each  overhanging  thorp. 

Coming  down  by  the  zigzag  road  one  sees:  at  first  a 
world  of  dark  undulating  rock  land  in  vesture  of  shining 
green  herbage  and  heather-bells,  high  bordered  with  the 
bristling  fir,  deep  girdled  across  with  a  devious  stream. 
Petty  detail  of  feature  is  lost  in  largeness.  Little  by 
little,  as  one  descends,  the  picture  narrows  until  the  cas- 
tle looms  into  frowning  focus,  cresting  with  an  armory 
of  spikey  green  wrack  its  mountain  cone.  From  this 
descends  a  fall  of  grassy  slopes  that  catch  the  sun  and 
glow  with  its  gilding.  Each  step  changes  the  view  and 
obliterates  the  last. 

A  pillared  Saint  in  a  weatherbeaten  wooden  pent 
seems  out  of  place  amid  such  wildness,  mossy  thatch  and 
winding  honeysuckle  seek  to  hide  it;  then  the  long,  low 
valley  carpet;  the  level,  decorous  river  with  peaceful 
oxen  grazing  or  wading;  the  sleepy  pit-pat-pat  of  women 
washing  clothes  at  the  river  edge,  kneeling  in  quaint 
wooden  boxes;  a  few  people  passing  on  the  nearest 
bridge,  and  an  angler  below  lolling  half  awake,  propped 
up  in  the  stern  of  an  anchored  punt, — this  is  the  picture. 
One  may  close  one's  eyes  to  the  factory  chimneys,  if  one 
is  so  minded,  and  forget  them.  Likewise  may  he  ignore 
most  of  the  seventy-eight  hundred  population  should 

234 


THANN 

they  perchance  not  interest  him.  They  will  object  not 
at  all. 

One  may  linger  near  the  winding  mountain  paths  and 
there  beguile  his  days  with  necromancy,  raising  the 
lordly  ghosts  of  the  Barons  of  Engelburg  in  imagination 
so  that  they  come  trooping  down  the  stony  way  spurring 
past  on  prancing  horse,  breastplate  flashing  and  chain 
mail  rattling,  on  the  way  to  some  "festa,"  maybe  the 
wedding  of  the  Lady  Ermintrude  or  the  banquet  of 
Wenceslas;  the  triumphant  return  of  the  Duke  of  Lor- 
raine, or  Philip's  celebration  of  the  oath  of  fealty.  Or 
maybe  they  are  on  their  way  to  Strassburg  to  the  Tour- 
ney, where  there  is  call  for  much  skill  of  arm  and  eagle 
eye. 

Throughout  the  region  the  story  of  Engelburg  runs 
like  a  scarlet  cord  in  the  tapestry,  but  later  on  all  this 
pattern  of  tapestry  is  worn,  faded,  and  ravelled  into  a 
gray  rag,  and  the  Seigneurie  has  passed  into  careless 
hands.  Barons  and  Knights  came  and  went  in  the  ages. 
It  passed  through  sieges;  warriors  attacked  it  patiently 
and  were  received  by  the  ensconced  Baron  with  showers 
of  hot  lead,  ancient  offal,  and  such  other  confetti  as  they 
could  contrive  at  intervals  between  the  launching  of 
stone  balls,  and  showers  of  iron  bolts.  Engelburg  held 
out  with  doglike  persistence  to  the  end,  until  they  threw 
their  redoubts  against  the  ravine  and  gave  him  such  a 
battering  that  at  last  he  appeared  on  the  ramparts  and 

235 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

gave  in.  Most  of  these  strongholds,  deemed  so  long  im- 
pregnable, tottered  and  fell  like  ninepins  when  shot  at 
with  French  powder  and  cannon.  Many  indeed  disap- 
peared with  scarcely  a  trace  when  the  stones  were  over- 
grown with  ivy.  One  passes  between  walls  that  seem 
more  than  ten  feet  thick,  where  Seigneural  lodge,  don- 
jon, and  keep  still  stand  all  moss  grown,  and  there  are 
the  arches  of  Knights'  hall,  and  above  is  what  was  "my 
lady's  chamber,"  with  crumbling  stone  seat  in  the  nar- 
row window  wherein  she  must  have  sat  in  days  long  gone, 
and  gazed  out  over  the  golden  slopes,  the  valley,  and  the 
winding  white  road.  One  lingers  here  until  the  splashes 
of  golden  light  are  gone  from  the  valley,  and  a  vapory 
canopy  of  rose  shot  lilac  envelops  the  setting  of  the  sun. 
There  was  a  huge  circular  ragged  mass  of  masonry  on 
the  hilltop,  resembling  somewhat  the  end  of  a  great  spool 
set  up  side-ways  as  if  overturned  by  a  giant  hand.  It  is 
called  here  the  "Eye  of  the  Sorcerer,"  and  is  the  object 
of  much  superstition  by  the  peasants.  A  little  maid  was 
leaning  against  its  side,  but  when  she  saw  us  she  fled 
away  down  the  rough  path,  and  nothing  would  induce  her 
to  return.  But  in  the  sketch  which  I  made,  I  placed  her 
just  where  she  stood  to  complete  the  picture.  It  was 
certainly  a  wild  looking  spot,  and  the  "Sorcerer's  Eye" 
was  well  placed,  for  sitting  in  the  great  round  hole  we 
had  a  magnificent  view  of  the  dim  luminous  valley 
which  well  repaid  us  for  the  climb.     There  must  have 

236 


THANN 

been  some  sort  of  a  legend  connected  with  the  "Eye," 
but  what  it  was  I  must  confess  with  some  shame  we  never 
discovered,  although  we  questioned  repeatedly  those  old 
people  whom  we  fancied  could  satisfy  us.  Strange 
sights  and  sounds  have  been  met  with  here  of  nights,  for, 
so  they  say,  this  venerable  height  harbors  gruesome 
things:  that  sorcerers  foregathered  here  aforetime,  and 
they  also  say,  do  even  now  hector  those  who  would  pry 
into  the  secrets  of  the  past. 

When  the  ancient  ruins  of  the  monastery  suppressed 
by  Joseph  II,  whoever  he  was,  were  made  over  into  a  fac- 
tory, the  place  was  haunted,  o'nights,  by  pranksome,  ill- 
natured  spooks.  According  to  the  story  of  mine  enter- 
taining host,  related  to  Lady  Anne  one  time  I  was  absent 
sketching  the  Sorcerer's  Eye,  the  factory  master's  life 
was  made  a  burden  to  him.  When  his  dinner  was  laid 
for  him,  and  his  wife  went  to  call  him,  the  platters,  cups 
and  bottles  were  thrown  about  the  room  in  all  directions. 
Some  wiseacre  advised  him  to  shoot  silver  bullets  into 
the  room  to  the  accompaniment  of  appropriate  exorcism. 
This,  however,  not  only  proved  too  expensive,  but  failed 
to  produce  any  result,  so  old  horse  shoe  nails  were  tried ; 
again  without  effect.  Then  the  expedient  of  strewing 
the  floor  with  wood  ashes  was  tried,  in  the  hope  that  these 
might  discourage  the  witch  or  goblin,  for  by  some  reason 
known  in  this  region,  such  folk  either  dislike  the  ashes 
of  wood,  or  are  unable  to  cross  a  threshold  so  strewn — 

237 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

accounts  differ.  But,  related  mine  host  to  Lady  Anne, 
these  strewn  ashes  revealed  the  next  morning  some  tell- 
tale footprints — leading  to  a  disused  closet.  Where- 
upon the  factory  master  loaded  the  blunderbuss  to  the 
muzzle  with  old  nails  and  scrap,  and  under  the  eye  of 
the  Mayor,  all  clad  in  his  sash  of  office  for  the  occasion, 
did  then  and  there  discharge  it  at  the  closet  door,  when 
in  it  fell,  and  out  there  tumbled  the  body  of  a  man,  who 
proved  to  be  a  fellow  formerly  employed  as  clerk  by  the 
master,  whom  he  had  discharged  for  stealing,  and  who 
had  taken  this  means  of  avenging  himself.  The  body 
was  buried  in  a  pit  filled  with  lime  at  night  in  the  marsh 
below  the  Sorcerer's  Eye,  and,  continues  the  story, — on 
stormy  nights,  etc.,  etc. 

Mine  host,  under  further  encouragement,  told  a  bet- 
ter one  of  a  Demon  who  still  rocks  children's  cradles, 
in  which  are  babies  under  the  age  of  six  months,  should 
the  mother  or  nurse  for  an  instant  leave  them  unattended 
— rocks  them  so  hard  that  the  babes  perish  in  convulsions  I 
This  happened  to  such  an  extent  as  to  alarm  the  towns- 
people; twelve  children  thus  perished.  So  the  wise 
woman  of  the  village  adopted  the  simple  expedient  of 
removing  the  rockers  from  all  the  cradles,  "which," 
gravely  alleged  mine  host,  the  while  avoiding  my  eye, 
"baffled  the  evil  spirit,  and  since  then  he  has  not  left  the 
summit  of  the  hill."  Somehow,  I  cannot  rid  myself  of 
the  impression  that  mine  host  was  "stringing"  usi  .  .  . 

238 


THANN 

The  huge  mass  of  masonry  so  curiously  balanced  on  the 
hilltop,  is,  according  to  Erckmann-Chatrian,  the  remains 
of  the  top  of  the  great  tower  of  the  castle  of  Engels- 
burg,  which  after  the  treaty  of  Westphalia  ( 1648)  passed 
with  the  town  of  Thann  over  to  Cardinal  Mazarin. 
Afterwards  at  the  order  of  Turenne,  Pedro  de  Poncet  ap- 
pealed to  the  miners  of  Giromagny  to  blow  up  and  de- 
stroy the  old  castle.  Three  times,  and  unsuccessfully, 
did  they  make  the  attempt.  The  first  resulted  in  the 
overthrow  of  the  manor  walls;  on  the  second  attempt  the 
donjon  sank  to  half  its  height;  and  on  the  third  a  huge 
section  comprising  this  great  ring  turned  up  on  its  side, 
and  remains  the  wonder  of  the  country  side. 

The  inn  was  entirely  delightful.  Each  afternoon  the 
noise  of  ninepins  sounded  from  the  rear  garden,  where 
grave  burghers  were  gathered  at  the  game,  and  it  was 
difficult  for  the  landlord  to  induce  them  to  come  to  the 
dinner  of  unexceptionable  cutlets,  souffle  and  a  generous 
bottle  of  the  ''Rangener"  wine,  extolled  as  far  back  as 
1550.  ...  In  days  thereafter  we  explored  the  region, 
discovering  by  chance  a  spring  that  is  said  to  be  far  famed 
for  the  cure  of  rickets  and  such  like  complaints  in  chil- 
dren, and  to  which  yearly  come  priests  in  solemn  proces- 
sion bringing  with  them  crowds  of  pilgrims,  who  lave 
their  children  with  the  waters,  leaving  small  wooden 
crosses  and  such  like  "ex  voto"  in  gratitude.  There  is 
great  faith  in  this  water,  we  were  told.     Its  origin  is  lost 

239 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

in  the  dim  ages.  But  a  village  priest  related  that  in 
early  days  the  Roman  Fontanalia  were  celebrated  here- 
abouts, and  thus  this  and  other  springs  were  venerated. 
The  Danish  Saint  Pirminus  preached  the  gospel  through- 
out Lorraine,  so  his  name  is  still  used  to  qualify  certain 
ailments  common  to  children,  and  his  effigy  is  seen  in  the 
wayside  chapels. 

It  was  our  fortune  to  come  upon  a  celebration  of  the 
Kermis,  where  were  gathered  bevies  of  pretty  fair-haired 
girls  with  full-laced  bosoms,  and  attentive  young  fellows 
garbed  in  quaint,  high-waisted,  many-buttoned  coats, 
who  paraded  the  flag  hung  streets,  shyly  holding  hands. 

And  we  were  forced  against  the  wall  to  let  the  "Malle- 
post"  pass,  a  huge  sort  of  diligence,  archaically  painted 
in  yellow,  with  a  long  body  and  many  small  windows, 
four  huge  wheels,  and  a  set  of  brakes,  in  protection 
against  steep  descents,  made  of  two  old  top  boots  of  in- 
credible size  on  each  rear  wheel.  The  whole  ark  was 
drawn  by  six  powerful  horses.  We  thought  that  it  might 
be  good  fun  to  go  on  by  this  to  the  next  town,  and  as 
Lady  Anne  was  agreed  we  mounted  to  the  interior  by 
means  of  the  steep  steps  at  the  rear  door.  Presently 
appeared  the  burly  driver,  the  leading  horses  were 
brought  out,  and  then  came  a  cpowd  of  peasants  who 
precipitated  themselves  into  the  old  ark,  which  swayed 
and  rocked  with  their  entry.  Each  peasant  was  laden 
with  one  or  two  bundles  which  he  bestowed  as  best  he 

240 


THANN 

might,  regarding  us  not  at  all.  Then,  amid  boisterous 
laughter  and  shouts,  and  with  many  handshakings 
through  the  door  and  open  windows,  we  started.  Ere 
we  had  gone  a  square  the  diligence  stopped  and  in  got 
four  more  peasants  with  bundles.  At  another  square 
another  pair  demanded  place,  and  room  was  made  for 
them  too.  This  continued  at  intervals  until  we  reached 
the  edge  of  the  town,  and  the  old  ark,  which  was  designed 
to  accommodate  sixteen,  eight  on  each  lengthwise  seat, 
held  twenty-two.  Crushed  and  rigidly  held  on  either 
side  by  these  full  bodied  lusty  peasants,  we  speculated  as 
to  what  would  happen  to  us  if  two  more  were  added  to  the 
number,  all  of  whom  were  seated  on  the  two  benches; 
eleven  on  each !  when  lo  I  the  ark  again  stopped  and  two 
more  entered  the  door.  Happily  these  were  children, 
who  secured  seats  on  some  of  the  bundles  on  the  floor 
among  the  feet.  Thus  we  journeyed  as  far  as  the  Stau- 
fen,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  beyond  the  town,  which  we 
reached  in  safety.  Here  the  driver  demanded  a  mark 
each  for  our  "places,"  and  we  bade  good-by  to  the 
twenty-two  smiling,  good-natured,  squeezed  ones,  and 
away  they  went  out  of  our  ken  forever. 

Thann  entertained  us  very  well  indeed.  There  is  a 
real  gem  of  Gothic  architecture  there  in  the  church  of 
St.  Theobald,  the  choir  of  which  may  be  seen  from  the 
station,  and  dates  from  1351-1421.  It  has  a  bold  and 
most  elegant  open  tower,  the  work  of  Meister  Remigius 

241 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

^Valch  (1516)  whose  name  is  said  to  be  carved  on  the 
spire,  but  I  could  not  find  it.  There  is  also  a  handsome 
double  portal  on  the  west  side.  The  interior  is  lavishly 
adorned  with  ornamentation  and  carving  of  the  sixteenth 
century.  The  stained  glass  windows  are  very  satisfying, 
and  over  the  altar  there  is  a  fine  example  of  the  work  of 
Martin  Schongauer,  showing  the  Saviour  surrounded  by 
the  Apostles.  There  are  also  many  most  picturesque 
old  towers,  houses  with  gardens,  and  rows  of  tall  poplars 
on  the  river,  of  which  I  made  a  sketch. 


242 


BosiiHni 


BosMn 


^f.  ERE  was  a  little  town  with  houses  all  embowered 
lis  in  roses  and  vines,  which  well  merited  its  name. 
^^^  It  is  said  to  have  more  than  three  thousand  inhabi- 
tants, but  one  wonders  where  they  kept  themselves; 
certainly  not  more  than  a  score  or  two  were  visible  the 
day  we  spent  there;  the  streets  were  deserted,  and  the 
table  d'hote  at  the  good  little  inn  brought  forth  only  one 
other  guest  besides  ourselves,  he  a  melancholy  looking 
and  seedy  "conmiis  voyageur,"  who  rarely  lifted  his  eyes 
from  his  plate,  and  ate  noisily  from  the  point  of  his  knife. 
The  inn  was  named  the  *Tflug."  That  however  was  the 
only  thing  against  it. 

Rosheim  was  once  a  free  city  of  the  Empire,  whatever 
that  may  mean,  and  it  is  said  to  have  been  sacked  and 
burned  repeatedly  in  now  forgotten  wars.  There  were 
still  some  of  the  ancient  fortifications  standing  in  good 
preservation,  and  there  was  a  remarkable  old  gateway 
with  a  strange  peaked  roof  of  slate  set  in  diamond  pat- 
tern, and  on  its  wall  a  large  clock-face,  painted  white, 
with  black  figures.     At  each  side  were  quaintly-gabled 

245 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

houses  with  wooden  balconies  belonging  to  a  remote 
period. 

Before  the  gate  was  a  fountain  of  stone  raised  on  three 
steps,  with  a  * 'baldaquin/'  where  women  and  girls  filled 
their  pails.  The  rest  of  the  town  seemed  silent  and 
deserted.  We  explored  the  old  Romanesque  Church  of 
SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  said  to  have  been  consecrated  in  the 
year  1049.  It  has  a  great  octagonal  tower  with  a  pointed 
conical  slate  roof,  which  in  spite  of  its  ugliness  was  most 
impressive  from  its  massive  size.  We  happened  upon  a 
large  courtyard,  with  wide  open  doors  at  its  farther  end, 
and  these  framed  a  charming  picture.  On  the  farther 
side  was  an  open  sort  of  "grenier,"  its  broken  bars  stand- 
ing out  all  golden  in  the  sunlight  against  deep  ultra- 
marine shadows  within.  Beside  it,  a  flight  of  crumbling 
mossy  steps  led  up  to  the  garden  shadowed  by  a  huge 
tree;  gay  nasturtium  blossoms  clothed  the  top  of  the 
wall,  and  some  blue  and  white  garments  were  hanging 
there  to  dry.  Here  among  the  gold-flecked  straw  under 
the  *'grenier"  a  group  of  hens  and  chickens  scratched 
about  a  lordly  "Monsieur  le  Coq." 

It  was  here  that  we  fell  in  with  the  mountebank  den- 
tist and  his  daughter.  A  wagon  was  drawn  up  beside  the 
wall :  a  strange-looking  vehicle,  something  like  those  pic- 
tures one  sees  of  the  old  diligences  which  were  in  use  be- 
fore the  railways.  This  one  was  painted  red,  green  and 
blue.     It  looked  like  a  house  on  wheels,  having  three 

246 


^^xlt-Vw*''^**'  /-iwfc^id 


ROSHEIM 

doors,  one  to  each  of  the  front  compartments,  and  one 
for  the  back,  where  a  sort  of  ladder  was  fixed.  The  horse 
had  been  taken  out,  the  shafts  raised,  with  a  stake  sup- 
porting them,  and  the  horse  turned  about  between  them, 
facing  the  seat,  where  he  munched  contentedly  at  a  meas- 
ure of  hay.  A  door  opened  and  out  came  a  fantastically 
dressed  girl,  followed  by  two  small  black  dogs,  who 
jumped  and  cavorted  about  her.  We  followed  to  a 
small  stream,  where  she  busied  herself  washing  a  pair  of 
shoes  with  a  brush  and  soap.  The  two  dogs  barked  at  us 
furiously,  resenting  our  presence.  The  girl  wore  a  fan- 
tastic sort  of  velvet  cap,  covered  with  gold  stars  of  tinsel. 
I  ventured  to  ask  her  if  those  were  performing  dogs. 
She  shook  her  head  and  replied :  "No  M'sieur,  they  arc 
my  pets.  No,  we  are  not  circus  people,  as  you  imagine. 
My  father  is  a  man  of  science.  We  live  in  the  wagon — 
it  is  our  house.  We  travel  thus  while  my  father  prac- 
tices his  profession.  He  is  a  dentist.  We  are  French, 
and  we  come  from  Paris.  Is  M'sieur  not  English?  Ah, 
— American.  And  what  language  does  M'sieur  speak"? 
— English —  Well  then,  how  is  it  that  M'sieur  speaks 
English,  but  he  is  American — I  do  not  understand — " 
All  at  once  a  loud,  harsh  voice  behind  us  broke  in : 
"Nom  d'Dieu,  imbecile  I  thou  art  spoiling  my  shoes 
and  wasting  good  soap,  too." 

Close  beside  us  was  the  most  villainous-looking  man  I 
had  ever  seen,  glaring  at  the  girl,  who  cowered  before 

247 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

him.  There  were  traces  of  powder  and  rouge  upon  her 
poor  white  withered  face;  she  could  not  have  been  much 
more  than  nineteen  or  twenty,  yet  she  looked  older.  Her 
eyes  beneath  the  frizzled  sandy  bang  of  faded  hair  looked 
as  if  she  had  cried  away  their  youthful  brightness. 

The  man  switched  viciously  at  the  ground  with  a  whip 
which  he  carried,  much  as  if  he  would  have  used  it  on  her 
had  we  not  been  there.  We  walked  on,  but,  looking 
back,  saw  him  standing  over  her  threateningly,  still 
scolding. 

He  quite  spoiled  the  scene  for  us,  this  serpent  in  the 
garden.  The  green  strip  of  meadow,  the  clear  river  mur- 
muring over  its  flat  stones;  and  across,  the  osier-shaded 
road  stretching  towards  the  dark  fringe  of  trees.  Warm 
sunshine  glowed  over  all,  and  the  grass  and  leaves  shone 
with  all  the  freshness  brought  by  the  morning's  showers, 
and  yet  for  us  all  the  sweet  charm  of  its  perfect  repose 
had  gone  from  that  lovely  spot,  while  that  fierce-eyed 
sallow-faced  man  stood  there  threatening  the  shrinking 
girl. 

In  the  afternoon  the  loud  beating  of  a  drum  was  heard, 
and  we  followed  a  few  of  the  villagers,  coming  at  length 
upon  the  dentist's  painted  wagon,  which  had  been  moved 
to  a  more  public  spot. 

Upon  the  very  top  of  the  wagon  was  the  girl,  now 
dressed  in  a  gorgeous  crimson  robe,  furiously  beating  a 
large  bass  drum,  while  the  dentist,  dressed  in  a  black 

248 


ROSHEIM 

velvet  waistcoat  and  knee  breeches  and  in  his  shirt 
sleeves,  a  spotless  white  frilled  shirt  with  huge  cuffs,  its 
bosom  sparkling  and  gleaming  with  large  gold  studs, 
stood  on  the  small  seat  in  front.  He  took  off  a  great 
cocked  hat  which  he  wore  on  his  head,  and  waved  it  with 
some  grace  at  the  people  who  stood  about.  To  him 
climbed  a  man  in  a  blue  blouse,  who  whispered  something 
to  him  with  evident  anxiety.  The  dentist  hesitated  for 
an  instant  and  then  bawled  out :  "Yes — Yes — Certainly 
— be  calm — be  easy — do  not  trouble — I  shall  come  to 
your  house  in  a  short  time — about  an  hour — rest  easy,  all 
will  be  well  I"  The  man  got  down  and  went  away. 
"And  now,  good  people,"  said  he,  turning  to  the  villagers 
who  stood  open-mouthed  before  him,  "you  wish  to  know 
what 'tis  all  about ^  Eh!  Well,  I  promise  you  certain 
wonders — hear  me  and  treasure  my  words,  for  I  bring  you 
health,  and  science,  and  comfort  I  You  will  say,  who  is 
this  who  has  come  here  among  us  from  the  far  off  great 
city  of  Paris.  Does  this  man  come  to  deceive  us? — to 
take  our  money  from  us*?  By  no  means,  my  friends.  I 
come  here  not  to  sell  you  anything — but  to  give  away  my 
wonderful  medicine — free — free  as  the  air  and  water! 
Look" — and  he  held  up  a  small  jar.  "This  pot  holds  a 
miracle — one  small  pinch  of  this  ointment — only  as 
much  as  would  go  on  the  point  of  a  spoon — ^has  already 
to-day  here  produced  a  remarkable  cure,  and  yet  of  this 
wonderful  healing  balm  I  am  going  to  give  freely — to 

249 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

any  of  you  who  are  ailing — come  up  and  show  me  your 
stiff  arm  or  leg — or  your  aching  back — come  to  me  and 
be  cured  I     Free — for  nothing  I" 

Then  he  opened  a  sort  of  box  before  him — and  showed 
glass  jars  in  which  were  frogs  and  bugs  floating  in  spirit. 
The  girl  on  the  roof  at  each  period  banged  the  great 
drum.  The  peasants  eyed  him  and  each  other,  evidently 
impressed  by  his  offer  of  free  treatment,  but  were  still 
suspicious. 

"You  say  to  yourselves,"  went  on  the  mountebank, 
"  *this  professor  claims  that  he  has  a  remedy  for  every 
and  all  diseases — an  infallible  remedy ! '  You  are  wrong  I 
I  did  not  claim  that  I  I  have  here  a  remedy,"  he  held  up 
the  little  jar  with  one  hand,  and  with  the  long  lean,  yel- 
low forefinger  of  the  other  he  pointed  at  each  of  his 
hearers,  "a  remedy,  not  for  every  disease,  but" — a  longer 
pause — "for  some  diseases — and  for  these" — ^pause — 
"it  is  surely  infallible  I"     Bang  I  went  the  drum. 

"There  are  ailments  about  which  I  do  not  concern  my- 
self. I  might  possibly  cure  them,  or  then  again  I  might 
not."  (Bang.)  "I  never  tried."  (Bang.)  "I  cure 
twelve  maladies  of  humankind."  (Bang.)  "The  first 
is  cancer."  (Bang.)  "The  second  is  consumption  of 
the  lungs."  (Bang.)  "The  other  ten  I  explain  in  pri- 
vate to  my  patients."  (Bang.)  "Among  these  is  rheu- 
matism."     (Bang.) 

250 


ROSHEIM 

One  old  peasant  who  stood  beneath  him  here  produced 
a  silver  coin  and  held  it  up  to  the  quack. 

"Look,"  said  he,  pointing  down  to  the  old  fellow. 
"He  has  faith."  (Bang.)  "Admire  him,  for  he  is  no 
fool  I — Nay,  my  friend,"  he  continued,  "I  shall  not  take 
your  money — but  you  shall  come  to  me  by  and  by  and  tell 
me  what  ails  you,  and  then  you  may  be  sure,  if  my  won- 
derful remedy  is  for  your  ailment,  you  shall  have  it." 
(Bang.) 

By  this  time  we  had  had  quite  enough  of  all  this,  and 
we  came  away.  He  probably  fleeced  the  people  well,  for 
he  departed  during  the  night.  Maybe  there  was  a  story 
connected  with  him  and  the  poor  faded  girl,  who  may  or 
may  not  have  been  his  daughter.  Perhaps  even  he  ap- 
peared to  be  more  villainous  and  evil  than  he  really  was, 
or  why  should  she  stay  with  him'?  But  he  certainly 
looked  capable  of  any  sort  of  crime. 


251 


m^t? 


Mtn 


j^^  NE  might  seek  in  vain  to  find  a  town  more  dis- 
fllcl  tinctly  French  than  Metz,  the  fortified  capital 
^^*^  of  Lorraine  and  before  the  present  war  the  head- 
quarters of  the  i6th  army  corps,  numbering  about  twenty- 
six  thousand  soldiers,  and  with  a  population  of  about 
seventy  thousand,  of  which  about  one-half  are  French. 

Approaching  the  town  by  rail  one  sees  upon  the  hori- 
zon, high  above  the  roofs  and  towers,  two  huge  squat, 
green  constructions,  which  seem  entirely  out  of  place,  and 
are  ugly  beyond  expression.  One  turns  out  to  be  the 
great  gas  tank  built  by  the  Germans  on  "Serpenoise" 
plain;  the  other  is  the  roof  of  the  huge  railway  station, 
which  is  quite  as  ugly,  but  much  more  offensive,  because 
it  claims  to  be  architecture.  Says  M.  Emile  Hinzelin,^ 
describing  it,  "On  the  tower  which  surmounts  this  depot 
an  immense  block  of  yellow  stone  was  long  an  enigma  to 
us.  It  at  length  turned  out  to  be  Saint  George  and  the 
Dragon.  At  least  that  is  what  the  Germans  alleged  it 
to  be,  adding,  insultingly,  that  it  represented  the  German 
Empire  treading  under  foot  the  French  Republic.     The 

*  Directeur  de  "La  France  de  Dcmain"  (Alsace-Lorraine). 

255 


ALSACE-LORRAINE     . 

Administration  substituted  another  model  for  this,  with- 
out giving  an  explanation  for  the  change  of  plan.  This 
model  included  the  figure  of  Field  Marshal  Count  Hoese- 
ler,  a  Corps  Commander  of  the  army  of  Metz.  Imag- 
ine," continues  he,  *  a  man  who  at  fifty  paces  resembles 
a  child  disguised  as  a  soldier;  at  twenty,  a  petty  officer; 
at  ten,  an  ugly  old  woman!  In  Hoeseler  is  incarnated 
the  effigy  of  the  traditional  Superior  Officer,  such  as  is 
typified  by  the  grim  mask-like  face  of  von  Moltke.  But 
what  an  idea  it  was  to  represent  Hoeseler  as  Roland  in  a 
buckler  and  coat  of  mail  I  At  the  same  time  one  should 
not  be  astonished  at  this  lack  of  taste,  for  is  there  not 
sculptured  on  the  doorway  of  the  Cathedral  an  effigy  of 
the  Emperor  William  (made  on  Imperial  command)  in 
the  costume  and  with  the  attributes  of  the  Prophet 
Daniel!" 

One  could  hardly  believe  this  to  be  true,  but  true  it 
is, — the  acme  of  banality !  There  it  stands  in  the  pres- 
ent west  portal.  That  lovely  piece  of  Gothic  work 
which  was  sculptured  in  the  eighteenth  century  by  Blon- 
del  was  demolished  by  the  German  administration,  who 
gravely  reported  that  Blondel's  style  did  not  agree  with 
or  carry  out  the  original  plans  of  the  architects  of  the 
Cathedral.  The  removal  of  this  master  work  of  Blon- 
del's  was  nothing  short  of  a  crime.  And  one  Is  led  to 
believe  and  accept  the  explanation  of  the  French  archi- 
tects who  protested  against  the  substitution,  "That  it 

256 


1 


VJU-lAM  a    AS 
THE  PKqPHBJ 
DANIEL     ATTHt 
v/EiT  PoaTAL-  or 

THE,    CATrttDftAU  At 

:k    v'U„-a.^     pom.  p    on, 

9  0S- 


METZ 

was  really  because  Blondel  was  a  Frenchman."  This 
original  west  portal  was  presented  by  Louis  XV  as  a 
votive  offering  for  his  recovery  from  the  illness  which 
attacked  him  during  the  singing  of  the  'Te  Deum"  at 
the  celebration  of  the  taking  of  Chateau-Dauphin  by  the 
army  of  Piedmont.  This  wretched  neo-Gothic  construc- 
tion was  inaugurated  with  much  pomp  and  ceremony  in 
May,  1903.  It  is  a  conglomeration  the  like  of  which  is 
enough  to  turn  the  gorge  of  any  architect  or  student — 
and  all  at  once  one  sees  the  crowning  offence  in  the  figure 
labeled  "Daniel  the  Prophet,"  holding  in  its  left  hand 
a  scroll  to  which  the  right  points. 

The  hooded  head  is  lifted,  and  from  it  looks  forth  the 
face  of  the  German  Emperor,  upturned  moustache — 
confident  smile,  and  all  those  unmistakable  points  of 
visage  with  which  we  have  become  so  accustomed  in  the 
daily  prints.  This  bizarre  portal  may  be  seen  at  the  left 
hand  corner  of  my  drawing  faintly  sketched — purposely 
so — because  it  is  so  ugly  and  entirely  out  of  keeping  with 
its  surroundings.  It  should  be  the  duty  of  the  French 
Ministry  of  Fine  Arts  to  remove  it  as  soon  as  the  German 
occupancy  is  at  an  end,  and  I  have  no  doubt  this  will  be 
done. 

The  Cathedrals  of  Metz  and  Strassburg  are  in  striking 
contrast.  The  latter  is  so  tall  of  tower,  so  sombre  upon 
the  horizon;  and  this  impression  is  enhanced  at  closer 
view.     Metz,  on  the  contrary,  not  lacking  a  fleche,  but 

257 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

without  a  high  tower,  is  more  exquisite  in  style.  The 
people  of  Metz  are  most  enthusiastic  about  it.  "Have 
you  not  seen  our  magnificent  stained  glass*?"  they  ask, 
and  then,  "Ah,  but  Monsieur  must  see  it  at  night  from 
the  square  outside  when  it  is  lighted."  The  artists  call 
it  "The  casket  filled  with  roses  and  breathing  incense," 
The  common  people  speak  of  it  as  "the  holy  lantern." 
We  are  told  that  in  this  Cathedral  are  four  thousand  and 
seventy-four  square  metres  of  painted  glass,  and  that 
those  in  the  south  aisle  are  of  the  thirteenth  century, 
while  those  in  the  nave,  the  transept  and  the  choir  are 
of  the  fourteenth,  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  centuries  re- 
spectively. 

The  slender  tower  at  the  side  is  of  exquisite  propor- 
tion and  is  finished  by  a  beautiful  fleche,  a  veritable  chef 
d'oeuvre  of  carving.  From  its  platform  one  can  see 
Treves  to  the  north,  and  to  the  south  and  west  the  towers 
of  some  of  the  French  towns.  In  the  tower  is  a  great 
bell,  named  The  Mute,  which  has  an  inscription  "Je  suis 
la  pour  crier  Justice."  It  is  a  matter  of  record  that  it 
rang  steadily  for  two  days  and  nights  in  October,  1870. 

Outside  of  Metz  is  a  very  picturesque  village  of  small 
white  houses,  with  delightful  red  tiled  roofs  lost  here 
and  there  among  the  thick  foliage  of  large  trees.  But 
the  extraordinary  thing  about  it  is  the  gigantic  chain  of 
arcades,  in  ruins  here  and  there,  with  immense  upstand- 
ing pillars  towering  over  the  small  white  houses  in  the 

258 


METZ 

fields  and  orchards.  These  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman 
aqueduct  which  crosses  the  valley.  The  little  town  hud- 
dling below  is  called  Jouy-aux-Arches,  and  is  given  over 
to  the  cultivation  of  strawberries,  of  which  it,  and 
three  other  fully  as  quaint  villages  named  respectively 
Woippy,  Saulny,  and  Lorry,  ship  each  year  something 
like  five  hundred  thousand  kilograms  of  the  berries  to 
market,  not  to  speak  of  the  other  fruits  grown,  such  as 
apricots,  cherries,  peaches  and  prunes.  On  the  left  bank 
of  the  Moselle  near  Woippy  is  grown  a  very  delicate  and 
noble  grape,  which  produces  a  wine  of  remarkable  bou- 
quet. There  are  also  the  wines  of  Scy,  of  Jussy,  of 
Sainte  Ruffine  and  Rozerieulles,  each  of  which  has  its 
admirers.  Many  of  the  villages  hereabouts  retain  their 
French  names  only  in  the  hearts  of  the  Alsatian  people, 
for  following  the  forcible  annexation  Thionville  became 
Diedenhoff en ;  Sarreguemines  became  Saargmund;  Bou- 
lay,  Bolchen ;  and  so  on  ad  nauseam.  Imagine  charming 
little  Devant-les-ponts  masquerading  as  "Fanttles- 
spountt"  I 

Metz  itself  has  had  a  remarkable  history.  The  Di- 
vodurum  of  the  Romans,  it  was  afterwards  the  chief 
fortified  town  of  the  Gallic  tribe  called  the  Mediomat- 
rici.  A  Bishop  was  enthroned  there  in  the  fourth  cen- 
tury, and  subsequently  it  became  the  capital  of  the 
Kingdom  of  the  Austrasians  under  their  first  King  Theo- 
doric.     The  remains  of  his  palace  are  still  to  be  seen  in 

259 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

the  rue  Trinitaires,  where  some  fragments  and  stones  are 
shown.  It  was  a  free  city  until  taken  by  the  French  in 
1552,  and  was  successfully  defended  by  its  inhabitants 
and  the  French  soldiers  against  Charles  V.  Together 
with  Toul  and  Verdun  it  was  governed  as  part  of  France, 
and  so  remained  until  the  Germans  seized  it  in  1871. 
One  hardly  knows  where  to  begin  or  where  to  stop  in 
writing  of  the  history  of  Metz,  so  filled  with  interest  and 
great  events  are  the  chronicles. 

Let  us  include  a  little  of  the  Revolution.  In  June, 
1790,  the  National  Guard  of  Lorraine,  Alsace  and 
Franche-Comte  were  convoked  at  Strassburg.  The 
Mayor  of  Strassburg,  Frederic  Dietrich,  at  whose  house 
the  "Marseillaise"  was  first  sung  by  its  young  author. 
Rouge t  de  ITsle,  came  officially  to  receive  the  flag  of  the 
nation,  the  tri-color,  which  he  hoisted  on  the  platform  of 
the  Cathedral,  saying,  "I  thus  show  to  Germany  that  the 
Empire  of  Liberty  is  founded  in  France."  This  patri- 
otic ceremony  of  hoisting  the  flag  was  afterwards  re- 
peated on  the  Cathedral  at  Metz,  in  the  presence  of  the 
Guard.  Hereafter  it  was  truly  the  Empire  of  Liberty — 
Liberty  of  action  and  men. 

For  the  defense  of  the  land  there  came  into  existence 
an  army  of  heroic  men  among  whom  the  names  of 
Bouchotte,  Lasalle,  Custine  and  Richepause  are  ever 
wreathed  in  glory.  The  people  of  Alsace-Lorraine  were 
among  those  who  took  the  Bastille.     The  tri-color  was 

260 


"^^ 


METZ 

their  banner.  Its  traditions  and  its  glories  were  theirs. 
The  old  citadel,  constructed  by  Marshal  Vielleville,  in 
1562  was  reconstructed  by  Vauban,  who  made  of  Metz 
a  splendid  fortified  town.  He  conceived  the  work  as  a 
means  toward  peace,  saying,  "Fortresses  should  have  no 
other  end  than  the  preservation  of  life."  Thereafter 
Asfeld  and  Cormontaigne  carried  out  the  original  plans 
of  Vauban  in  building  the  other  ramparts. 

Outside  forts  were  built  by  the  government  following 
Sadowa,  at  Philippeville,  Saint-Quentin,  Saint  Julian, 
Saint  Privat  and  Oueulen,  and  this  work  was  carried  on 
up  to  the  war  of  1870.  When  Metz  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Germans  they  continued  and  completed  this  work 
of  defense,  but  they  were  animated  by  a  different  thought 
and  purpose.  It  was  not  simply  defense  that  they 
thought  of,  but  domination.  They  made  of  Metz  a 
great  war  machine  which  was  to  be  ever  ready  against 
the  time  when  they  should  be  ready  to  launch  against 
France  an  irresistible  army  of  invasion.  It  is  shown  that 
up  to  1900  the  perimeter  of  plan  was  not  more  than 
twenty  five  kilometres.  When  the  great  war  of  1914 
broke  out,  the  fortifications  embraced  seventy  five  kilo- 
metres. .  .  .  All  the  works  between  the  Rhine  and  Metz 
were  connected  by  a  series  of  strategical  roads  and  rail- 
ways connected  by  subterranean  telephones.  They  de- 
stroyed and  obliterated  the  ancient  fortifications  as  use- 
less for  the  defence  of  the  town,  leaving  only  Fort  Belle- 

261 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

croix,  which  they  named  Steinmetz.  This  latter  com- 
mands the  railway.  The  town  became  a  vast  arsenal. 
Travellers  in  1913  returning  to  France  reported  that  two 
army  corps  had  been  sent  to  Metz  to  man  the  ramparts, 
and  that  at  Saarbruck  was  another  numbering  twenty 
thousand  men.  The  world  gave  no  heed  to  these  prepa- 
rations. .  .  . 

The  work  of  Germanizing  the  architecture  of  the  town 
went  on  merrily.  Near  the  atrociously  Teutonic  rail- 
way station,  they  built  a  huge  Post  Office,  a  sort  of  cross 
between  a  jail  and  a  church,  covered  with  bizarre  bas- 
reliefs  and  topped  with  a  kind  of  balloon  of  iron  work. 
A  Frenchman  wittily  described  the  ornamentation  as 
looking  like  "the  mud  pie  work  of  a  child,  all  gilded  by 
a  cook's  assistant."  In  1906  the  ancient  picturesque 
ramparts  were  leveled.  They  must  have  been  a  remark- 
able setting  for  the  town,  and  there  was  really  no  need 
of  destroying  them,  but  with  that  curious  blindness  of 
the  Germans  to  what  constitutes  real  beauty  and  value, 
they  proceeded  to  remove  what  were  regarded  as  histori- 
cal monuments  and  replaced  them  with  rows  of  mod- 
ern (!)  houses  so  fantastic  and  bizarre  as  to  be  almost 
unbelievable,  and  of  no  one  recognizable  style,  but  a 
conglomeration  of  all.  Some  of  these  houses  seem  to 
have  broken  out  into  a  sort  of  rash  of  balconies,  and  are 
festooned  with  baroque  cast  iron  work.  Others  are  lined 
with  columns  which  do  not  serve  to  support  any  part  of 

262 


METZ 

the  design.  There  are  tall  slender  windows  and  wide 
squatty  ones,  in  what  is  termed  "Art  Nouveau"  style  (I) 
There  is  German  Renaissance  carried  out  to  the  extreme, 
and  there  is  what  they  call  Gothic,  and  all  is  mixed  up 
in  a  terrible  jumble  violating  every  known  rule  of  archi- 
tecture. 

The  roofs  are  of  tile  in  every  color  of  the  rainbow, 
each  in  its  crudest  tone,  and  all  entirely  out  of  harmony 
with  everything.  In  contrast  to  these  offences  against 
taste,  one  turns  to  the  contemplation  and  enjoyment  of 
the  ancient  French  facades  of  the  periods  of  Louis  XIY 
and  XVI,  their  elegant  lines  and  proportions  proving  an 
antidote  for  the  suffering  caused  by  the  wretched  houses 
near  the  station.  Some  of  the  ancient  towers  happily 
still  remain,  though  just  why  they  were  spared  when  the 
lust  of  tearing  down  took  place  it  is  hard  to  say. 

Formerly,  it  is  said,  one  entered  the  town  passing 
through  the  ancient  gateway  "Porte  Serpenoise,"  called 
now  by  the  Germans,  'Trinz  Friedrich  Karl  Thor." 
This  ancient  gateway  lost  its  identity  some  years  ago, 
being  swallowed  up  by  modern  walls.  To  the  left, 
standing  alone,  is  seen  a  great  chocolate  colored  tower 
capped  by  a  quaint  cone,  seeming  without  either  door  or 
windows.  This  is  the  famous  "camoufle"  tower,  after- 
ward named  for  the  brave  bombardier  honored  in  the 
chronicles  of  Metz  as  one  of  its  defenders.  It  is  now 
closed  to  visitors  and  deserted.     I  should  have  liked  to 

263 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

explore  it,  but  I  could  find  no  way  to  accomplish  this. 

The  gate  called  Saint-Thiebault  is  of  the  eighteenth 
century.  Here  were  the  earliest  walls  of  the  town.  It 
is  said  that  there  was  a  great  amphitheater  here  in  Ro- 
man times,  and  underneath  are  vast  subterranean  pas- 
sages, some  of  which  are  unexplored,  and  that  many  frag- 
ments of  columns  and  carved  stones  are  there. 

In  1445  was  erected  the  ancient  gray  gateway  called 
the  "Porte  des  Allemands."  It  is  a  matter  of  history 
that  this  fortified  chateau  was  constructed  during  the 
time  of  an  assault  and  siege.  A  tablet  inserted  in  the 
outer  walls  bears  the  name  of  the  architect,  Henri  de 
Baconval,  and  the  date  of  its  completion.  There  are 
four  great  machicolated  towers,  and  an  interior  cloister  of 
unique  character.  It  takes  its  name  from  the  Teutonic 
cavaliers,  the  Hospitaliers  of  Our  Lady.  Farther  on  is 
the  Porte  Sainte  Barbe,  with  an  inscription  in  old 
French,  "When  we  have  bread  inside,  we  have  peace  out- 
side" (Quand  nous  avons  pain  dedans,  nous  avons  paix 
de  fors)  [de  hors].  Here  and  there  about  the  old  town 
are  many  picturesque  and  delightful  corners,  and  on 
some  of  the  quays  are  charming  ancient  faQades,  and 
most  venerable  walls,  whose  tall  windows  and  delightful 
hanging  balconies  all  decked  with  bright  blossoms  and 
vines  are  mirrored  in  the  still  waters  below,  where  many 
weatherbeaten  punts  are  tied  to  posts  and  rings  in  the 
mossy  walls.     On  some  of  these  balconies  one  may  be 

264 


m 


/ 


\yAs>- 


METZ 

the  amused  witness  of  the  manner  of  the  various  house- 
hold economies  of  the  people,  all  carried  on  with  delight- 
ful frankness.  The  old  streets  away  from  the  busy  cen- 
ters which  are  so  crowded  with  soldiers  and  bustle,  are 
filled  with  charm  and  poetry.  In  some  of  these  are  old 
dark  houses  with  high  walls  and  doorways  reached  by 
breakneck  stairways,  and  it  is  to  be  remarked  that  on 
these  old  tottering  balconies,  and  in  the  grimiest  of  these 
windows,  high  and  low,  are  invariably  pots  of  brightest 
flowers. 

An  immense  stone  bridge  of  thirteen  arches  crosses  the 
river  Moselle.  It  is  named  curiously  the  Bridge  of 
Skeletons  (Pont-des-Morts),  but  there  is  nothing  "maca- 
bresque"  about  its  present  appearance  to  justify  its  fu- 
nereal name.  It  is  said  that  in  the  thirteenth  century 
there  was  a  bridge  here  which  was  so  old  that  it  fell 
down.  In  order  to  build  another  the  town  authorities 
granted  to  the  hospital,  in  return  for  a  certain  sum  of 
money,  the  right  to  claim  from  each  patient  who  died 
the  best  shirt  or  coat  he  owned.  Verily  there  must  have 
been  either  a  tremendous  mortality  among  the  patients, 
or  else  their  clothing  must  have  been  of  incredible  value. 
From  this  bridge  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  Cathedral 
over  the  trees  and  the  tiled  roofs.  At  the  bridge  of 
Sailly,  over  the  narrow  stream  one  had  formerly  a  view 
of  the  tanneries,  an  important  industry  of  Metz.  This 
picture  has  now  disappeared,  and  in  its  place  is  a  narrow 

265 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

street  over  the  river,  on  each  side  of  which  are  tall 
wooden  houses  all  decked  with  open  floors,  as  if  their 
walls  had  tumbled  outward,  exposing  dark,  noisome  in- 
teriors below,  where  were  vast  piles  of  hides  in  hideous 
bundles  lying  about,  among  which  passed  the  dim  figures 
of  men  naked  to  the  waist  in  seemingly  endless  proces- 
sion,— and  the  smells ! — and  again  the  smells!! 

Metz  has  an  interesting  library  containing  some  valu- 
able books  and  various  MSS.  bearing  upon  the  history  of 
Alsace-Lorraine,  and  a  museum,  both  in  the  Bibliothek 
Strasse.  The  museum  has  some  Roman  antiquities,  and 
a  sarcophagus  in  marble  in  which,  so  it  is  claimed,  reposed 
the  remains  of  Louis-le-Debonnaire  in  the  Abbey  of 
Saint  Arnulphe.  Adjoining  the  library  in  the  Geisberg 
Strasse  is  the  Austrasian  Palace  erected  upon  the  site  of 
an  ancient  Roman  Palace  in  1599.  Some  of  the  stones 
used  in  this  building  were  those  forming  the  outer  walls 
of  the  earlier  structure.  The  hand  of  the  Teutonic  "re- 
storer" is  seen  in  the  "ornamentation"  of  this  venerable 
building,  now  used  as  a  commissariat  depot  for  the  Ger- 
man garrison. 

North  of  the  town  is  found  the  Chambiere  Cemetery, 
in  which  is  an  impressive  memorial  monument  erected  to 
the  French  soldiers  who  perished  at  Metz  in  1870. 
What  one  remembers  chiefly  about  Metz  is  the  vast  num- 
ber of  soldiers  thronging  the  streets  and  filling  the  res- 
taurants, both  humble  and  pretentious;  the  street  cars 

266 


heft  • 


)■ 


/r 


© 


METZ 

and  omnibuses,  and  the  roads  in  and  out  of  the  town. 
It  is  estimated  that  one  out  of  every  three  in  the  town 
population  of  seventy  thousand  is  a  soldier,  but  this 
may  be  an  exaggeration.  Nevertheless,  fresh  arrivals  of 
regiments  were  reported  while  we  were  there.  In  the 
night  one  could  hear  the  tramp,  tramp  of  marching  feet, 
and  the  rumbling  of  great  vans  following  the  troops. 
The  French  people  with  whom  we  talked  regarded  these 
military  movements  as  ordinary  occurrences;  they  were 
used  to  them,  and  they  excited  neither  comment  nor  in- 
terest. I  have  heard  a  great  deal  about  the  ill  manners 
of  the  soldiers,  and  the  unbearable  and  intolerable  inso- 
lence of  the  officers  towards  the  civilian,  and  also  almost 
unbelievable  tales  of  their  behaviour  toward  women. 

I  felt  bound  to  investigate  the  matter  for  myself,  so 
that  in  writing  of  them  I  should  not  do  these  men  injus- 
tice. I  watched  and  studied  their  actions,  both  on  the 
street  and  in  the  restaurants  and  cafes  which  they  fre- 
quented. These  were  the  Kaiser-Pavilion  on  the  Espla- 
nade; the  Rheinischer  Hof,  and  the  beer  houses,  Ger- 
mania  and  the  Burgerbrau,  Kaiser- Wilhelm  Platz.  The 
officers  were  generally  fine  looking,  well  set  up  men, 
mustachioed  like  the  Kaiser,  and  seemingly  devoted  to 
the  "punctilio."  They  were  jolly  of  manner  and  affable 
among  themselves.  But  here  it  ended.  To  the  shop- 
men and  towards  the  civilian  their  manner  was  not  civil. 
It  was  indeed  haughty  and  intolerant  to  the  last  degree 

267 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

— indeed,  again — it  was  brusque  and  masterful.  At- 
tention to  requests  was  not  asked;  it  was  demanded.  If 
not  instantly  heeded  there  was  trouble  for  the  offender. 
But  I  saw  no  violence  offered  at  any  time,  such  as  I  was 
led  to  expect  after  reading  of  the  Zabern  affair. 

Their  attitude  towards  women  was  one  of  extreme 
gallantry,  and,  at  least  so  far  as  I  could  see,  this  attitude 
was  not  at  any  time  resented  by  the  object  of  their  atten- 
tions. I  had  been  told  that  the  officers  walking  two  and 
three  abreast  on  the  pavement  in  the  afternoon  prome- 
nade, would  never  step  aside  to  allow  a  lady  to  pass; 
indeed  that  they  would  on  the  contrary  push  her  aside. 
I  saw  nothing  of  this,  I  am  bound  to  say.  It  may  have 
been  true  in  individual  cases,  but  it  certainly  was  not 
their  practice  in  the  town  of  Metz  as  far  as  I  was  able 
to  see.  I  gathered  that  the  people  fondly  hoped  .  .  . 
yes,  they  hoped^  that  one  day — ah  I  blessed  longed-for 
day  I — that  their  beloved  Alsace-Lorraine  would  be  again 
in  the  bosom  of  the  Mother  Country.  But  mean- 
while .  .  . 

M.  Emile  Hinzelin,  Director  of  "La  France  de  De- 
main,"  says,  "During  the  early  days  of  the  war,  1914-15, 
the  Germans  caused  the  great  bell,  the  'Mute,'  in  the 
Cathedral  to  ring  without  cessation  in  honor  and  cele- 
bration of  their  imaginary  victories,  but  the  thundering 
of  the  great  guns  of  the  approaching  French  put  courage 
and  hope  in  the  hearts  of  the  Messins.     On  the  reverse 

268 


METZ 

of  a  photograph  of  the  Place  d'Arms  of  Metz,  a  corres- 
pondent wrote  to  a  friend  in  Paris  under  date  of  Novem- 
ber, 1914,  *We  hear  you,  and  we  await  you/ 

"General  Ferdinand  Foch  (pronounced  Fosh),  who 
was  appointed  Supreme  Commander  of  the  Allied  Forces 
on  March  29,  1918,  while  of  Basque  origin,  born  at  Tar- 
bee  in  1851,  was  raised  here  at  Metz.  After  the  annex- 
ation of  Lorraine,  in  1871,  rather  than  become  a  German 
subject  he  returned  to  France.  Entering  the  Polytech- 
nic School  in  Paris  under  the  number  72,  he  was  a  rather 
slow  pupil,  leaving  his  class  numbered  forty-five,  which 
did  not  offer  any  hopes  of  a  great  or  brilliant  future. 
He  was  noted  as  a  conscientious  student  and  a  close  ap- 
plicant. His  great  passion  was  the  study  of  strategy  of 
war,  particularly  the  war  of  1870,  in  its  most  minute 
details.  From  his  knowledge  of  the  peculiar  mentality 
of  the  Germans,  he  counted  upon  their  repeating  in  fu- 
ture conflicts  the  manoeuvres  in  which  they  had  been  so 
successful.  He  believed,  too,  that  they  would  inevita- 
bly repeat  their  mistakes.  In  all  his  writings  and  teach- 
ings at  the  Superior  War  School,  he  held  always  to  the 
idea  of  an  inevitable  aggression  by  Germany,  sprung 
with  lightning-like  rapidity,  after  long  premeditation 
and  most  minute  preparation — the  swift  thunderbolt  of 
the  opening  to  develop  into  a  struggle  of  colossal  pro- 
portions. .  .  . 

*Toch  led  the  7th  French  army  at  the  Battle  of  the 

269 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Marne,  and  later  the  offensive  between  Armentieres  and 
Arras  in  the  spring  of  1915.  After  these  operations  he 
was  surpassed  in  public  opinion  of  the  French  Army 
Chiefs  by  Generals  Petain  and  Nivelle,  whose  wonderful 
leadership  before  Verdun  made  them  famous.  When 
General  Petain  succeeded  Nivelle  last  May  as  Com- 
mander-in-Chief in  the  field,  General  Foch  took  his  place 
as  Chief  of  Staff  in  Paris."  (N.  Y.  Times,  Mar.  30/18.) 
In  the  April  following  he  was  appointed  chief  of  the 
Allied  forces  in  France. 


270 


SttiHisInirg 


Strassltara 


m 


E  were  two  among  the  thousand  or  more  people 
who  stood  shoulder  to  shoulder  in  a  contracted 
space  not  large  enough  to  hold  half  that  num- 
ber with  comfort.  Overhead  towered  the  great  Cathe- 
dral, before  us  its  immense  pink-gray  fabric,  with  statues 
dim  of  outline  and  detail,  and  a  myriad  of  pinnacles  and 
elaborate  Gothic  lacework.  If  we  had  awakened  sud- 
denly in  this  strange  place,  we  should  have  marveled  at 
the  sight;  as  it  was,  we  were  rather  phlegmatic,  but  cer- 
tainly expectant.  Our  position  in  the  square  had  been 
achieved  somewhat  laboriously,  as  had  that  of  our  neigh- 
bors who  surrounded  us.  We  had  left  our  distant  lodg- 
ing place  by  taximeter  cab  (fifty  pfennigs  for  each 
thousand  yards,  by  the  way)  and  slowly  threaded  narrow 
streets,  and  crossed  bridges,  and  traversed  quaint  squares 
with  names  which  we  found  difficult  to  pronounce  prop- 
erly or  intelligibly  to  our  square-headed  driver,  and  had 
noted  ancient  house  fronts  and  quaint  gables  marked  for 
future  inspection;  to  be  all  at  once  halted  by  a  German 
policeman  who  resembled  the  effigies  of  Bismarck,  and 
to  be  told  by  him  with  scant  courtesy  that  our  taxi  could 

273 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

go  no  further;  that  we  must  get  out  and  join  the  crowd 
on  foot. 

The  streets  were  still  damp  with  the  rain,  and  the 
atmosphere  was  saturated  with  it.  From  the  railway 
station  we  followed  the  crowd  through  the  Kuhngasse  to 
the  canalized  river  111,  through  the  Kleber-Staden,  past 
the  Romanesque  Synagogue,  and  the  old  market,  where 
there  was  some  sort  of  an  exhibition  going  on;  crossed  the 
Kronenburg  Bridge,  and  by  the  Alte  Weinmarkt,  with 
its  monumental  fountain,  we  were  pushed  and  hustled 
along  with  and  by  the  crowd.  Reaching  the  Weinmarkt 
Strasse  we  were  somewhat  more  comfortable,  for  this 
wide  street  is  one  of  the  main  arteries  of  traffic.  In  the 
Hohe-steg  we  saw  the  Eisern-Manns-Platz  and  the  fa- 
mous little  iron  figure  on  the  house  front,  from  which  the 
Platz  takes  its  name.  Then  we  were  again  pushed  and 
hustled  along,  past  the  bronze  statue  of  Kleber,  to  the 
arcaded  Gewerbslauben,  leading  through  the  Gutenberg 
Platz,  past  the  statue  of  the  inventor  of  the  'art  pre- 
servative of  arts,"  and  here  we  were  at  last  in  the  Kra- 
mergasse  before  the  west  fagade  of  the  great  Minster. 

The  crowd  about  us  was  formed  of  various  social 
strata.  Some  of  the  men  wore  the  red  and  green  ribbon 
of  an  imperial  order.  One  wore  the  red  button  of  the 
Legion  of  Honor  of  France.  I  recognized  the  distinctive 
costumes  of  peasants  from  both  "Haut"  and  ''Bas"  Al- 
sace, both  men  and  women.     Some  wore  coarse  costumes 

274 


STRASSBURG 

from  the  remote  villages  of  the  Black  Forest.  There 
seemed  to  be  more  women  than  men  in  the  multitude. 
Some  of  them  were  handsome,  others  showed  in  their 
faces  the  brutalizing  effect  of  their  servile  existence. 

We  noted  that  there  was  a  great  deal  of  French  spoken 
by  the  people  about  us,  much  more  than  German.  Near 
us  was  a  tall  Frenchwoman  of  great  volubility.  With 
her  was  a  very  stout,  short  Alsatian  lady  wearing  the  dis- 
tinctive headdress  of  wide  black  ribbon.  The  first  dis- 
cussed with  her  companion  her  plans  of  seeing  all  that 
was  possible,  in  tones  audible  to  all  about  her. 

"Rosalie,"  she  said,  "I  shall  with  great  skill  make  the 
push,  and  then  you  should  immediately  follow  me. 
Thus,  shall  I  do  it." 

As  she  spoke,  she  illustrated  the  movement  she  in- 
tended to  make,  by  means  of  a  large  thick  blue  umbrella 
which  she  carried.  It  struck  squarely  in  the  back  of  a 
very  stout  woman  in  front,  who  turned  about  with  a  face 
so  flaming  with  wrath  that  the  offender  was  forced  to 
apologize. 

"I  ask  pardon,  Madame,"  said  the  tactician,  "I  saw 
you  not." 

"Then,  Madame,"  returned  the  stout  lady  in  icy  tones, 
"you  must  indeed  be  blind." 

"I  have  asked  pardon,  Madame,"  said  the  offender,  in- 
dignantly pursing  up  her  lips.  "It  was  an  accident  that 
can  happen,  and  one  to  be  overlooked  at  once,  and  with 

275 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

the  amiability  customary  among  people  who  are  used  to 
good  society,  more  especially  as  the  crowd  is  great,  and 
one  was  pushed  from  behind,  Madame." 

"Your  pardon,  Madame,"  returned  the  stout  one,  with 
voice  growing  husky  from  rage,  "but  I  overheard  you 
planning  your  *push'  with  your  friend." 

"But  of  a  certain,  Madame,"  flung  back  the  other, 
shaking  the  fat  blue  umbrella  in  her  face,  "my  conversa- 
tion was  intended  for  the  ears  of  the  lady  who  accom- 
panies me.  One  in  good  society  does  not  listen  to  and 
repeat  conversation  not  addressed  to  one." 

"Evidently,  Madame,"  spurted  the  other  vehemently; 
"but  Madame  must  remember  that  the  voices  of  unculti- 
vated persons  are  both  loud  and  penetrating.  The  voice 
of  a  lady,  Madame,  is  rarely  either  loud  or  penetrating, 
Madame,"  and  she  appealed  to  all  about  her  for  con- 
firmation, and  there  were  both  nods  and  shakes  of  the 
head  in  return.  Clearly  the  sentiment  of  the  crowd 
about  us  was  with  the  last  speaker. 

"I  shall  withdraw  myself  from  the  proximity  of  a  per- 
son whom  I  hold  so  objectionable,  Madame,"  hurled  back 
the  aggressive  one  in  a  fury. 

"Perfectly,  Madame;  do  that  quickly,  Madame,  I  be- 
seech you,"  smiled  sweetly  the  injured  one,  "and  with 
the  quickness  extraordinary." 

The  aggressive  lady  pushed  and  squirmed  her  way  into 
a  new  place  well  to  the  left,  but  still  within  hearing. 

276 


■  m"^ 


STRASSBURG 

Unhappily  for  her  in  some  way  her  fidgeting  about 
brought  the  blue  umbrella  in  contact  with  the  small  of 
the  back  of  a  tall,  red  faced,  grizzled  and  military  look- 
ing gentleman,  who  at  once  jumped  aside  as  well  as  he 
could  in  the  crowd  and  turned  ferociously  upon  her. 
Fresh  and  equally  elaborate  apology  was  entered  upon, 
and  then  ensued  the  following  dialogue : 

''Mille  pardon,  M'sieur.     An  accident,  I  assure  you/* 

*'It  is  less  than  nothing,  Madame.  I  pray  you  do  not 
speak  of  it." 

"Some  one  behind  pushed  me,  dear  sir." 

"It  was  nothing,  Madame;  I  did  not  even  notice  it. 
'Twas  less  than  nothing,  I  repeat.  Perhaps  I  crowded 
Madame." 

"Not  at  all.  Monsieur,  but  I  fear  that  I  may  'derange' 
Monsieur  again,  and  then  I  should  be  'desole.'  If  I 
could  be  permitted  to  take  that  little  place  before  Mon- 
sieur, not  directly  before  Monsieur,  you  understand,  but 
just  a  little  to  one  side,  so  that  I  should  not  incommode 
Monsieur,  that  would  infinitely  oblige  me  and  render  me 
in  debt  to  Monsieur  a  thousand  fold." 

The  military  person  yielded  his  place  and  elevated  his 
eyebrows  at  the  same  moment.  "Au  gr-r-rande  plaisir, 
Madame,"  he  shot  at  her,  while  he  caressed  the  sore  spot 
in  the  small  of  his  back.  There  were  knowing  smiles 
exchanged  by  those  about  who  had  followed  the  incident. 
She  had  gained  her  point,  and  also  had  succeeded  in 

277 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

drawing  with  her  the  friend,  who  heaved  her  way 
through  the  packed  throng  bestowing  "pardons"  and 
"mille  fois"  impartially,  and  carrying  through  it  all  a 
sweet  smile  of  innocent  good  humor  that  remained  on  her 
face  in  spite  of  all  the  scowls  and  remonstrances  of  those 
she  pushed  aside.  We  could  not  but  admire  the  way  in 
which  it  was  accomplished. 

All  this  bustle  and  stir,  and  the  eager  expectancy  of 
the  crowd  was  most  entertaining  and  amusing  to  us, 
albeit  the  Lady  Anne  abhors  crowds,  because  she  cannot 
see  what  is  going  on,  unless  by  happy  chance  I  am  able 
to  find  some  elevated  point  of  vantage  where  she  can 
comfortably  see  over  the  heads  of  the  throng  without 
being  pushed  and  jostled. 

This  I  found  in  the  windowoverabakeshop,  where,  for 
the  expenditure  of  a  silver  piece  to  the  domestic  and  the 
announcement  of  our  nationality,  the  portly  wife  of  the 
baker  made  us  welcome,  and  gave  us  comfortable  chairs 
at  the  lace  hung  open  window  of  her  "salon,"  where  we 
sat  for  an  hour  or  more  eating  delicious  fresh  small  cakes 
for  which  our  hostess  would  accept  no  pay,  and  watching 
the  crowd  in  the  street  and  the  square  beyond,  while  she 
entertained  us  with  such  information  as  travelers  seek  in 
a  strange  city.  It  was  some  great  church  feast  that  we 
were  witnessing,  and  such  events  always  bring  forth  the 
bourgeoisie,  which  lives  most  frugally,  and  having  seem- 

278 


STRASSBURG 

ingly  abundant  leisure,  is  ever  greedy  to  be  present  and 
take  part  in  any  street  spectacle  or  ceremony. 

There  were  stalwart  helmeted  troopers  of  the  cavalry 
or  tEe  City  Guard,  and  constantly  their  shrill  trumpet 
calls  rang  out  nearby  and  were  answered  from  afar. 
The  crowd  beneath  the  window  good  naturedly  made 
way  for  a  small  two-wheeled  green  cart,  driven  by  a  red- 
cheeked  woman  and  laden  with  brightly  polished  milk 
cans.  The  cart  was  drawn  by  a  diminutive  donkey  in  a 
brass  studded  harness,  with  a  large  bright  red  worsted 
tassel  under  each  long,  restless  ear.  The  police  stopped 
its  further  progress,  and  there  it  remained.  The  red- 
cheeked  woman  took  out  from  under  the  seat  a  huge  half 
loaf  of  rye  bread,  from  which  she  cut  a  slice  for  herself 
and  one  for  the  donkey,  and  both  ate  contentedly.  Now 
came  a  band  of  children  laden  with  baskets,  strewing 
the  open  way  with  leaves,  flowers,  and  bright  colored 
paper  fragments,  under  which  the  pavement  well  nigh 
disappeared  in  a  charming  mosaic  of  red,  green  and 
white.  Heavy  church  bells  boomed  out  melodiously, 
and  were  answered  by  joyous  and  sweeter  peals  from 
others  in  the  distance. 

Then  all  at  once  came  the  clang  of  brass  cymbals,  and 
the  blare  of  horns,  mingled  with  the  rich  harmony  of 
chanting  voices,  as  the  banners  of  the  procession  came 
into  view.     We  were  struck  with  the  number  of  young 

279 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

girls  there  were  in  the  procession,  so  many  of  whom  were 
in  white,  wearing  long  veils  thrown  back;  all  young  and 
pretty;  of  all  ages,  from  the  tiny  tot  in  stiff  starched 
dress  to  the  tall,  lithe  maid  who  bore  the  heavy  white 
gold  emblazoned  banner  of  the  Virgin;  on  they  came  with 
quick  step,  and  passed  out  of  sight  through  the  sombre 
clad  crowd — whole  squadrons  of  them  in  white,  or  lilac, 
or  pink,  each  led  by  a  maiden  who  bore  the  banner,  or 
emblem,  or  reliquary  or  even  in  one  instance  a  heavy 
oaken  crucifix.  Sometimes  there  came  a  group  of  sacred 
effigies  on  platforms  upborne  by  six  or  a  dozen  girls,  and 
to  these  were  attached  lines  of  bright  ribbons,  the  ends 
of  which  were  held  by  young  girls  who  walked  alongside. 
On  streamed  the  procession,  demurely  marching  to  the 
strains  of  the  mellow  bassoon,  the  curiously  shaped  ser- 
pent cornet,  the  cylindrical  red  and  black  striped  drum 
of  archaic  shape,  and  clashing  cymbal  upon  which  the 
players,  perchance  gathered  from  many  a  distant  village, 
piped  and  beat  their  very  best  in  honor  of  the  Saint,  who- 
ever he  was. 

At  times  all  this  noise  ceased  as  if  by  magic,  and  the 
mellow,  deep  voices  of  the  chanting  priests  broke  sooth- 
ingly upon  the  ear,  followed  by  the  clear,  tender  voices 
of  children,  as  school  after  school,  and  all  admirably 
drilled  and  officered  by  shaven  priests  and  placid-faced 
nuns,  passed  below  us.  We  marvelled  at  the  well 
thought  out  theatrical  effect  of  color,  and  the  skill  with 

280 


STRASSBURG 

which  the  ecclesiastical  treasures  were  displayed  to  the 
people.  We  reflected,  too,  with  humility  upon  certain 
tawdrinesses  of  detail  in  our  own  celebrations  in  the  land 
of  the  free,  for  which  we  tried  to  find  valid  excuses. 

Here  was  a  marvel  of  color  and  grouping.  Where 
could  we  secure  such  old  lace  as  adorned  the  robes  of  the 
ecclesiastics  who  walked  past  our  window  beneath  cano- 
pies of  scarlet  velvet  embroidered  with  real  gold  cord^ 
An  Empress  might  covet  it  without  hope.  Drawn  for 
the  occasion  from  the  old  carved  chest  in  the  treasury  of 
the  Cathedral,  where  it  lies  safely  wrapped,  it  was  the 
pious  labor  of  fair,  slender  fingers  that  had  crumbled 
away  to  dust  nearly  three  centuries  ago.  And  that 
heavy  casket  of  repousse  gold  studded  with  jewels  "en 
cabochon,"  borne  by  the  four  shaven  priests,  which  the 
baker's  wife  told  us  contained  the  wonder  working  relic, 
the  finger  of  the  Saint;  where  in  our  country  could  we 
see  such  master  goldsmith  work,  such  a  triumph  of  art 
and  skill*?  Madame  asked  us  if  we  had  such  in  New 
York?  And  I  answered  the  question  as  truthfully  as 
I  could,  admitting  much  yet,  I  think,  maintaining  our 
civic  pride,  as  I  was  bound  to  do.  But  Lady  Anne  was 
not  content  with  what  she  considered  my  inadequate  de- 
fence, and  marshalled  an  astonishing  array  of  facts  to 
prove  that  our  well  known  appreciation  of  art  was  in- 
deed art  preservative,  which  eloquence  quite  overcame 
our  hostess. 

281 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Onward  below  us  swept  the  seemingly  endless  proces- 
sion— as  if  the  whole  feminine  population  of  the  prov- 
ince between  the  ages  of  seven  and  twenty  had  been 
summoned  into  the  service.  Then  new  phalanxes  of 
chanting  priests,  some  strangely  clad;  of  deep  voiced 
prelates  of  grave,  solemn  mien,  whose  orange  or  scarlet 
cloaks  seemed  frosted  with  tHe  costly  lace,  and  whose 
melodious  voices  rang  out  in  the  quaint  street.  Lum- 
bering carts  all  hung  with  rare  tapestries  and  containing 
stiffly  swaying  waxen  effigies  of  sacred  personages  and 
large  brass  crucifixes  passed  by.  Others  resplendent 
with  candelabra  and  altar  cloths  of  priceless  fabric  inter- 
woven with  golden  threads  flashed  in  the  sunlight. 
And  still  the  childish  treble  of  the  young  choristers,  in- 
termingled with  the  deep  diapason  of  the  priestly  chant, 
rolled  on. 

Lady  Anne  exclaimed  aloud  as  the  prettiest  of  the 
sights  came  into  view — a  tiny  child — a  boy  with  beauti- 
ful face  and  golden  curls,  clad  in  a  fur  robe,  carrying  a 
small,  slender  cross,  and  leading  a  snow  white  lamb, 
which  followed  him  most  docilely — a  charming  model  of 
innocence  such  as  one  sees  in  the  wonderful  paintings  of 
the  Italian  masters — this  representative  of  the  youthful 
John  the  Baptist,  with  filleted  head,  and  slender  bare 
limbs,  marched  along,  seemingly  all  unconscious  of  the 
impression  he  made. 

We  noted  that  the  people  were  variously  impressed; 

282 


STRASSBURG 

some  seemed  coldly  indifferent  and  failed  to  salute  as 
the  holy  emblems  passed.  Others,  and  these  we  recog- 
nized as  the  lower  orders  of  peasants,  knelt  in  humble- 
ness and  bared  their  heads.  Between  these  extremes 
were  the  "bourgeoisie,*'  so  called,  who  seemed  impressed 
by  the  solemnity,  but  who  maintained  a  critical  attitude. 
But  we  were  quite  satisfied  by  the  milk  woman  of  the 
rosy  countenance,  who  knelt  on  the  seat  of  the  small 
green  cart  among  the  polisHed  brass  cans,  fingering  her 
rosary  with  its  large  brown  beads  and  brass  medallions, 
"telling"  them  as  devoutly  as  one  could  wish. 

There  must  be  much  rivalry  between  the  different 
parishes  as  to  the  display,  and  the  various  musical  com- 
panies and  their  bands.  These  jealously  guarded  em- 
blems and  canopies  from  far  off  chapel  sacristies  and  chan- 
cels so  venerated  and  brought  out  so  rarely  into  the  sun- 
light. These  pilgrims  from  the  famous  old  shrines  of 
the  Rhine  must  endeavor  not  to  be  outdone  or  outshone 
by  the  metropolitans.  Saint  Ursula  of  the  network  of 
dark,  ancient  streets,  where  medieval  houses  rear  their 
picturesque  gables,  now  tenanted  by  the  lowly  poor, 
must  make  proper  showing  before  the  parvenu  districts, 
where  new  stucco  and  shining  glass  shelter  the  rich. 

And  all  at  once  the  tumult  of  cymbal  and  loud  horn 
was  hushed,  and  only  the  rich  diapason  of  the  chanting 
was  heard.  The  crowd  below  surged  forward  and  stood 
on  tiptoe  the  better  to  see.     Plainly  something  was  to 

283 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

happen — ^perhaps  the  chief  event  of  the  celebration. 
Then  it  came; — surrounded  by  a  cohort  of  chanting 
priests  most  sombrely  clad  in  dark  robes  as  if  to  lend 
effect  by  contrast,  and  preceded  by  scarlet  and  white  clad 
acolytes  swinging  smoke  censers  all  beneath  a  large 
silken  state  ''baldaquin"  or  canopy,  borne  by  eight  men, 
came  a  figure  who  wore  no  mitre,  but  who  was  resplen- 
dent in  jewels,  gold  embroidered  cloak,  and  collar  of 
ancient  lace  work.  He  walked  slowly  and  majestically 
— an  old,  thin-faced  man,  with  silvery  white  hair,  chant- 
ing in  a  high-pitched,  reedy  voice.  .  .  .  He  passed  from 
our  sight,  tottering  beneath  the  magnificent  "baldaquin" 
amidst  clouds  of  blue  incense.  The  crowd  surged  in 
behind  him,  and  soon  the  street  below  was  empty.  The 
milk  woman  gathered  up  the  reins  and  whacked  them  on 
the  donkey's  back;  away  went  the  little  green  cart,  the 
brass  cans  rattling  loudly.  The  procession  was  out  of 
sight.  The  great  spectacle  for  which  we  had  come  to 
Strassburg  was  over. 

Fainter  grow  the  sounds  of  the  music  and  the  chanting 
of  the  priests.  The  sunlight  had  departed  and  the 
shadows  were  beginning  to  gather.  Across  the  street  in 
a  doorway  we  could  see  the  figure  of  a  brown  clad  friar 
standing  as  if  in  a  trance.  His  hands  grasped  a  rosary 
and  it  seemed  as  if  he  were  praying,  though  he  was  too  far 
away  for  his  face  to  be  clearly  seen.  He  seemed  to  us 
then  like  a  statue  of  some  hermit  saint  carved  in  the 

284 


STRASSBURG 

gloom  of  the  old  doorway — ^but  while  we  watched  the 
door  opened  and  he  passed  into  its  shadow  out  of  our  ken. 

At  the  "table  d'hote/'  we  fell  into  conversation  with 
a  most  affable  and  good  humored  individual,  of  great 
volubility,  who  proved  to  be  a  retired  Captain  of  Artil- 
lery of  the  French  Army  of  1871,  and  a  native  of  Strass- 
burg,  who  gave  us  among  other  valuable  information  a 
well  written  account  of  the  origin  of  the  "Marseillaise" 
or,  as  he  in  common  with  all  Strassburgers  insisted  upon 
calling  it,  the  "Strassbourgeoise,"  which  is  as  follows: 
On  the  20th  of  April,  1792,  France  declared  war  upon 
Austria.  Five  days  later  the  Mayor  of  Strassburg, 
Dietrich,  with  the  men  of  the  regiments  of  the  Garrison, 
and  detachments  of  the  National  Guard,  placarded  the 
principal  streets  with  the  declaration  of  war,  in  both 
French  and  German.  At  each  posting  of  the  placard  the 
band  played  the  song  of  the  epoch,  "Ca  Ira."  On  his 
return  to  his  home,  No.  4  Place  de  Broglie,  the  Mayor 
received,  among  other  friends,  a  young  Captain,  from 
Lons-le-Saulnier,  named  Rouget  de  I'lsle,  aged  thirty- 
two  years.  Dietrich  addressed  his  colleagues  as  follows : 
"We  have  entered  upon  the  campaign,  and  we  need  an- 
other sort  of  song  to  inspire  our  soldiers.  The  munic- 
ipality of  Strassburg  opens  a  concourse,  offering  a  prize 
for  the  best  composition." 

Young  de  I'lsle  returned  to  his  quarters  in  the  Caserne, 
was  seized  with  an  inspiration,  and  there  and  then  com- 

285 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

posed  a  song  of  both  words  and  music,  which  he  played 
over  and  over  again,  cutting  and  pruning  far  into  the 
night,  and  in  the  morning  at  seven  o'clock  he  called  in  a 
brother  officer  named  Maslet,  or  Masclet,  to  whom  he 
sang  it,  to  the  latter's  great  enthusiasm.  In  the  evening 
there  was  a  gathering  of  patriots  at  the  house  of  Mayor 
Dietrich,  and  it  was  there  that  Rouget  de  Lisle,  accom- 
panied upon  the  piano  by  Dietrich's  niece,  sang  the  song 
known  the  world  over  to-day  by  the  name  of  the  "Mar- 
seillaise." 

One  of  the  company  arranged  for  its  publication  in 
Strassburg  under  the  title  of  "Chant  de  guerre  pour 
I'armee  du  Rhyn,  dedie  au  Marechal  Luckner,  Com- 
mandant en  Chef  de  Tarmee."  On  the  29th  of  April  fol- 
lowing, it  was  played  in  the  Place  du  Broglie  in  Strass- 
burg by  the  band  of  the  1st  Battalion  of  the  Rhine-Loire 
Volunteers,  and  received  instant  popularity,  moving  the 
assembled  people  to  great  enthusiasm.  Played  in  Mar- 
seilles in  July  of  the  same  year,  it  was  unanimously 
adopted  by  the  army  of  volunteers,  its  ringing  refrain 
sung  by  the  troops  entering  Paris  in  the  month  of  August, 
moving  the  populace  almost  to  tears.  The  Parisians 
named  it  "The  Marseillaise,"  in  spite  of  its  published 
title,  and  so  it  has  remained.  But  it  is  really  the 
"Strassbourgeoise,"  and  is  invariably  thus  named 
throughout  Alsace-Lorraine.  The  song  at  first  had  but 
six  stanzas  of  ten  lines  each,  and,  according  to  the  best 

286 


STRASSBURG 

authorities,  the  seventh,  attributed  to  the  poet  Marie 
Joseph  Chenier,  is  really  the  composition  of  a  priest  of 
Vienne  (Isere) .     It  runs  as  follows : 

*'Nous  entrerons  d^ns  la  carriere 
Quand  nos  aines  n'y  seront  plus; 
Nous  y  trouverons  leur  poussiere 
Et  la  trace  de  leurs  vertus.  (bis) 
Bien  moins  jaloux  de  leur  survivrc 
Que  dc  partager  leur  cercueil, 

Nous  aurons  le  sublime  orgueil 
De  les  venger  ou  de  les  suivre. 
Aux  armes,  citoyens !     Formez  vos  battaillons 
Marchons !  (bis) .     Qu'un  sang  abreuve  nos  sillons !" 

The  eyes  of  the  old  Alsatian  blazed  as  he  recited  these 
words  in  our  little  salon  that  rainy  afternoon.  We  were 
glad  that  we  invited  him  to  have  his  coffee  with  us  after 
dinner,  for  when  he  found  that  we  were  eager  listeners, 
and  that  he  could  trust  us,  he  unbosomed  himself  of  his 
pent-up  feelings.  He  was  an  interesting  talker,  but  we 
gathered  no  facts  from  his  conversation  which  we  had  not 
already  heard  in  other  towns,  and  which  are  not  already 
set  down  in  the  opening  chapters  of  this  chronicle.  But 
what  he  told  us  of  the  "Strassbourgeoise"  was  most  in- 
teresting. 

"La  Marseillaise"  was  thus  named  by  decree  of  the 
28th  Messidor  of  the  year  III.  "Hymn  apart,  fougueux, 
enlevant,  irresistible,  empreint  a  la  fois  de  joie  et  de 
tristesse,  de  colere  et  de  passion,  un  chant  civique  sorti 

287 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

des  flancs  du  peuple  et  de  son  fier  courroux  contre  retran- 
ger  et  Tenvahisseur."  ^  It  is  now  forbidden  to  sing  this 
song  in  Alsace-Lorraine.  It  is  forbidden  by  the  German 
law  even  to  have  a  copy  of  the  song  in  one's  possession. 
What  a  strange  destiny  was  his  who  composed  this  great 
song;  and  his  to  whom  it  was  dedicated,  the  savant  Fred- 
eric de  Dietrich.  The  brave  Marshal  Luckner  was 
decapitated  by  the  Jacobins,  and  the  poet  himself  incar- 
cerated under  the  terror,  because  the  hymn  was  con- 
sidered a  song  of  protest  and  violence  against  the 
French  I  .  .  . 

The  old  city  of  Strassburg  is  so  remarkable  that  one 
cannot  resist  giving  here  a  short  historical  sketch  which 
may  be  skipped  if  the  reader  is  so  minded.  It  was  at  the 
end  of  the  Roman  epoch  that  a  Bishopric  was  created  in 
the  city  "Argentoratum,"  and  the  faithful  built  a  church 
in  which  to  celebrate  their  cult.  During  the  "Frank" 
period  the  Cathedral  was  already  situated  on  the  present 
site  of  the  Minster  and  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Virgin 
Mary,  and  at  the  right  of  the  principal  altar  was  one  con- 
secrated to  Saint  Paul  and  another  to  Saint  Peter.  This 
church  was  pillaged  and  burned  in  April,  1002,  by  the 
soldiers  of  Herman,  Duke  of  Suabia.  Later  the  ruins 
were  entirely  destroyed  by  lightning  and  no  trace  re- 
mained. Bishop  Wernher  soon  commenced  the  construc- 
tion of  a  new  church,  employing  thousands  of  masons  and 

*  Henri  Welschinger. 

288 


STRASSBURG 

peasant  laborers,  who  brought  from  the  quarries  of  Was- 
selone  and  Marlenheim  the  great  blocks  of  stone  from 
the  Vosges,  which  give  to  the  Cathedral  its  beautiful 
rosy  tint.  After  it  was  completed,  it  was  burned  and 
ruined  during  the  years  1130,  1140,  1150  and  1176. 
However,  it  was  not  entirely  destroyed,  for  a  part  of  the 
original  choir  is  still  pointed  out  in  the  crypt.  Soon 
after  the  latter  date,  Bishop  Conrad  I  began  the  recon- 
struction, promising  to  the  faithful  certain  indulgences 
in  return  for  their  donations.  So  on  the  7th  of  Septem- 
ber, 1275,  according  to  the  chronicle,  on  the  day  of  the 
fete  of  the  Nativity  of  the  Virgin,  under  the  reign  of 
Rodolph  of  Hapsbourg,  the  tower  was  dedicated.  Of 
this  nothing  remains  save  the  portal  and  the  towers. 

The  Cathedral  thus  developed  from  the  east  to  the 
west,  and  the  choir  is  the  most  ancient  part,  resting  upon 
the  crypt,  which  was  constructed  by  Wernher.  The 
transept,  forming  the  small  arms  of  the  cross,  was  erected 
during  this  epoch,  and  presents  traces  of  Roman  and 
Gothic.  The  portal  on  the  place  "de  I'Eveche"  is  en- 
tirely Roman.  Here  are  the  two  admirable  statues  of 
the  Old  and  New  Testament,  with  the  cross  and  the 
chalice.  The  celebrated  pillar  of  the  Angels  with  the 
trumpets;  the  figure  of  Christ  and  three  Angels  carrying 
instruments  of  the  Passion,  are  pure  Gothic.  The  nave 
was  constructed  in  1250-75,  and  is  entirely  French 
Gothic,  by  French  architects,  and  presents  the  grandest 

289 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

analogy  with  that  of  the  church  of  Saint  Denis.  Ger- 
man architects  had  little  or  nothing  to  do  with  it.  The 
eminent  architect,  Ralph  Adams  Cram,  in  his  scholarly 
work,  "Heart  of  Europe,"  (p,  294)  says:  "It  is  at 
Strassburg  that  we  find  that  singular  and  ingenious  mas- 
terpiece, the  'Pillar  of  the  Angels,'  slender  grouped 
shafts  with  intermediate  niches,  one  above  the  other,  each 
containing  an  exquisite  statue  of  an  apostle,  an  angel,  or, 
at  the  top,  our  Lord  at  the  Day  of  Judgment.  This  is 
one  of  those  sudden  and  unprecedented  happenings  in 
medieval  art  that  mark  the  vast  vitality,  imagination, 
and  personal  initiative  of  the  time." 

The  master  work  of  the  Cathedral  is  due  to  one  man, 
whose  name  is  mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  the  chronicle 
as  Master  Erwin,  but  whose  birthplace  is  doubtful.  It 
was  he  who  designed  the  occidental  face  of  the  Cathe- 
dal,  with  its  three  wonderful  portals,  its  incomparable 
rose  window,  and  its  statues  and  innumerable  statuettes. 
In  the  tympanum  of  the  great  doorway  is  a  series  of  sculp- 
tures representing  the  whole  history  of  the  Old  Testa- 
ment from  the  Creation  to  Jonah  and  the  whale.  For 
the  most  part  the  great  statues  are  ancient,  but  the 
smaller  ones  are  those  -estored  or  imitated  to  replace 
those  destroyed  during  the  Revolution. 

The  Cathedral  has  always  excited  general  admiration. 
In  1481,  the  Duke  Jean  Galeas  Sforza  wrote  to  the  Coun- 
cil of  Strassburg,  asking  for  the  name  of  an  architect 

290 


STRASSBURG 

capable  of  directing  the  construction  of  the  great  Dome 
of  Milan.  The  Council  unanimously  agreed  upon 
Jacques  de  Landschut.  He  it  was  who  designed  and 
superintended  the  construction  of  the  exquisite  portal  of 
Saint  Laurent  (see  drawing) .  The  town  of  Strassburg 
being  converted  to  Protestantism  in  1559  High  Mass 
was  not  again  celebrated  in  the  Cathedral  until  1681, 
when  Louis  XIV  restored  it  to  the  Catholics.  In  1 772-78 
the  architect  Jean-Laurent  Goetz  enclosed  the  monument 
on  the  north  and  south  sides  by  a  beautiful  arcade  in 
pure  Gothic  style.  The  Cathedral  suffered  much  from 
the  bombardment  during  the  Franco-Prussian  war. 
After  peace  was  declared  the  "fleche,"  which  leaned  over 
dangerously,  threatening  to  fall,  was  repaired,  but  it  was 
not  until  1878  that  the  beautiful  ''tourelle"  and  the  tran- 
sept were  completed  I  ^ 

The  interesting  and  voluble  retired  Captain  of  Artil- 
lery proved  to  be  a  veritable  mine  of  information,  and 
was  most  amiable  in  his  responses  to  our  many  questions. 
"And  now,"  said  he,  "you  have  visited  our  noble  and 
beautiful  Cathedral,  do  you  not.  Monsieur  and  Gracious 
Lady,  find  your  sensations  to  be  all  enthusiastic?  Our 
noble  Cathedral,  which,  by  its  magnificent  fagade,  its 
'rosaces,'  its  statues  and  statuettes,  its  thousands  of 
motifs  drawn  from  the  flora  of  Alsace;  its  grand  nave, 

*  See  "La  Cathedral  de  Strasbourg."    Georges  Delahache,  Paris,  Longuet 
Edit. 

291 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

and  the  great  clock,  the  only  one  of  its  kind  in  all  the 
world,  have  you  not  content  with  it  all?  Have  you 
found  in  other  Cathedrals  such  magnificent  high  reliefs'? 
— such  graceful  columns? — And  the  windows  I  Where 
else  will  you  find  such  delicious  melting  tones  of  purple, 
gold  and  azure? — Our  noble  Cathedral  is  really  an  ob- 
ject of  veneration,  of  an  intense  and  unalterable  affec- 
tion, so  associated  is  it  with  our  history,  that  one  cannot 
speak  or  write  of  Alsace  without  allusion  to  it.  It  is 
really  the  heart  of  Strassburg.  To  know  it  properly  one 
must  ascend  to  the  platform  of  the  tower,  and  there  be- 
come familiar  with  the  choir,  and  the  towers  of  the 
'abside.'  And  once  upon  the  platform  of  the  great 
tower — " 

Here  his  enthusiasm  rendered  him  speechless — his  eyes 
raised  comically  to  the  ceiling,  one  hand  upon  his  breast, 
covering  the  medal  or  decoration  which  he  wore,  the  other 
raised  to  his  lips  with  thumb  and  finger  tips  together. 

"The  view  incomparable,"  he  at  length  continued  with 
a  sigh  of  rapture.  "Over  the  rosy  red  tiled  roofs  of  our 
noble  city,  the  eye  travels  to  the  distant,  dim  Vosges,  with 
its  cluster  of  ancient  chateaux,  the  noble  Mount  Sainte- 
Odile;  the  great  Hohenkoenigsbourg  and  the  rim  of  the 
Black  Forest.  We  can  there  contemplate  the  beautiful 
plains  of  Alsace,  with  its  picturesque  valleys,  its  golden 
hillsides  and  misty  hills.  Was  not  the  great  Goethe  jus- 
tified. Monsieur  and  Gracious  Lady,  when  he  described 

292 


STRASSBURG 

our  Province  as  'a  new  Paradise  prepared  for  the  human 
race/  These  were  the  words  of  the  poet  written  when 
he  was  a  student  here  at  the  University.  See,  too,  how 
capriciously  the  picturesque  streets  stretch  away  in  all 
directions  under  our  eyes,  like  unto  the  filaments  of  a 
gigantic  web.  One  must  really  see  a  sunset  from  the 
tower,  and  I  hope  that  Monsieur  and  Madame  will  not 
fail  to  do  so  before  they  leave  Strassburg.  The  rays  of 
the  sun  there  remind  me  of  the  days  when  I  was  a  child, 
when  I  was  taken  to  see  the  fire-works  which  were  set  off 
in  the  tower  on  the  great  fete  days.  Those  white  and 
red  flames  pouring  out  from  the  lace  work  of  the  old 
tower,  white  and  red;  the  colors  of  our  ancient  Alsatian 
banner,  I  shall  never  forget  them !  .  .  ." 

Tears  came  to  his  eyes,  and  he  brushed  them  away 
without  shame.  "Monsieur  and  Madame  saw  yesterday 
our  great  fete  of  the  'Assumption.'  Was  it  not  a  superb 
procession?  It  was  in  memory  of  the  vow  of  Louis 
XIII.  You  saw  the  sacred  Image  of  the  Virgin  with  out- 
stretched arms  bearing  the  Infant  Jesus.  You  saw,  too, 
the  great  silken  banners  of  the  town  of  Strassburg  borne 
on  either  hand.  In  the  days  of  *Louis  le  Debonnaire' 
the  seal  of  Strassburg  bore  the  image  of  the  Virgin 
Mother  with  the  legend  *Virgo,  roga  prolem  quo  cives 
servet  et  urbem.'  There  was  carried  formerly  a  great 
gold  embroidered  banner,  which  was  destroyed  in  the 
bombardment  of  1870.     Upon  this  was  shown  the  figure 

293 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

of  the  Infant  Jesus  holding  a  'fleur  de  lys'  in  his  hand. 
And  according  to  record  the  ancient  banners  of  the  town 
all  bore  the  'fleur  de  lys'  as  part  of  the  arms." 

And  certainly  we  did  revel  in  the  mild  delights  of  the 
old  Cathedral,  approached  by  tortuous  streets  between 
amorphous  houses  of  steep  roofs,  with  many  windows  and 
dormers,  and  aged,  carven  doors  surmounted  at  times  by 
strange  old  trade  emblems ;  their  stories  sometimes  over- 
hanging in  most  satisfying  manner.  There  were,  too, 
rough  cobbled  market  places  with  odd  buildings,  on 
which  were  pepperbox  turrets,  arcades  and  occasionally 
forgotten  and  weatherbeaten  statued  Saints,  where  good 
wives  chaffered  their  wares  on  rainy  market  days.  Here 
clings  the  soul  of  antiquity.  We  found  a  sort  of  Ark;  a 
Saints'  Sarcophagus,  with  a  strange  moss-grown  recum- 
bent figure  under  the  stone  altar.  Likewise  an  old  triple 
fountain  gushing  from  its  grotto  by  the  side  of  the  street, 
called,  so  a  shopkeeper  told  us,  Saint  Willibrod's  Well, 
which,  he  said,  was  older  than  any  record,  and  informed 
us  that  masons  would  come  that  very  day  to  tear  it  away 
to  build  a  new  shop  front.  There  was,  too,  a  quaint  and 
unspoiled  age-worn  haven,  the  little  Hospice  of  Irmine, 
where  lived  twelve  poor  old  men.  "They  might,"  said 
the  shopkeeper,  in  answer  to  our  question,  "show  it,  but 
'tis  not  the  custom."  But  the  Super ieure,  a  gentle  little 
old  lady,  in  response  to  a  pull  at  the  bell  handle,  does  us 
the  honors  of  the  quaint  little  row  of  buildings  along  the 

294 


STRASSBURG 

narrow  court  yard,  the  sacrosanct,  the  tiny  chapel,  the 
few  happy  dotards  dozing  in  the  sunlight.  ,  .  . 

Up  the  dim  pilgrim-worn  staircase  of  the  Cathedral  to 
the  platform,  whatever  curious  beauty  is  in  old  gables, 
whatever  charm  there  is  in  studying  them,  is  here  to  be 
found.  Closely  all  around  they  press,  these  oldest  of 
gables  all  unchanged,  as  though  they  loved  the  protect- 
ing presence  of  the  Cathedral.  Teufelsdroch  has  de- 
scribed the  joys  he  found  in  tiles.  Here  you  may  sit  at 
the  heart  of  Strassburg  and  be  drawn  into  the  beat  of  its 
old  simple  life.  If  you  have  anything  of  this  love  of 
quaint  roofs,  here  you  may  revel  in  them. 

The  date  of  the  completion  of  the  first  Minster  is  un- 
known. While  the  apse  and  the  transept  were  slowly 
progressing,  Gothic  architecture  had  become  established 
in  France,  and  exercised  everywhere  its  influence  upon 
such  constructions.  The  office  of  Cathedral  architect  is 
said  to  have  long  remained  in  the  family  after  Erwin's 
death  in  1348.  The  last  practitioner  is  supposed  to  be  a 
Master  Gerlach.  It  was  he  who,  in  1365,  completed  the 
third  stage  of  the  towers.  Evidently  the  original  plans 
were  mislaid  thereafter,  because  a  platform,  not  the  work 
of  Erwin,  was  constructed  between  the  towers.  One 
Ulrich  von  Elsingen  of  Suabia  then  took  up  the  work  in 
1399.  This  man  showed  an  astonishing  knowledge  of 
design  and  command  of  construction  work.  He  height- 
ened the  octagonal  structure  of  the  tower  by  adding 

295 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

another  story,  and  thus  it  remained.  The  open-work 
spire  is  said  not  to  be  the  work  of  Erwin.  It  is  by  all 
accounts  the  work  of  one  Johann  Hultz,  who  came  from 
Cologne. 

The  work  of  the  following  centuries  is  easily  traced 
if  one  is  interested.  The  bombardment  by  the  Germans 
in  1870  resulted  in  much  damage,  but  all  trace  of  this  has 
disappeared  under  the  "careful"  restoration  by  an  archi- 
tect named  Klotz.  A  new  copper  roof  has  been  com- 
pleted, and  a  curious  sort  of  Romanesque  dome  con- 
structed over  the  crossing.  Some  of  this  work  of  restora- 
tion has  been  under  the  superintendence  of  one  Fr.  Smitz, 
who  was  "Minster  Architect,"  completing  the  great 
Cathedral  at  Cologne. 

Of  these  old  roofs  and  gables  I  made  many  sketches, 
and  showing  these  one  day  in  the  hotel,  I  overheard  two 
Frenchmen  discussing  us,  and  airing  the  while  much 
Gallic  wit  at  our  expense,  all  harmless  enough,  too,  be  it 
said.  "Mais  v'la,"  I  heard,  "que  M'sieur  est  tout-a-fait 
AmericainI  Qu'il  est  pratique,  propre  aux  affaires  I 
M'sieur  voudrait  bien,  sans  doute,  acheter  ces  toits  et 
I'emporter  'vec  lui  a  New  York!  Que  de  justesse; 
comme  c'est  caracteristique !"  etc. — and  then  "M'sieu 
will,  in  all  probability,  buy  the  great  clock  to  take  over 
to  America!"  This  is,  with  the  people,  the  great  "piece 
de  resistance."  It  bears  the  inscription:  "Voila 
I'horloge  astronomique  a  mouvement  perpetuel." 

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This  clock  is  not  the  original  one,  however.  The  first 
one  was  constructed  in  1352;  a  second  at  the  end  of  the 
sixteenth  century,  which  was  destroyed  during  the  revo- 
lution. The  present  machine  was  made  by  the  clock- 
maker  Schwilgne,  who  died  in  1856.  Only  a  few  parts 
of  the  framework,  a  wheel  or  two  and  some  of  the  decor- 
ative paintings  of  the  old  clock  by  Dasypodius  were  used 
in  the  present  clock.  Each  day  at  noon  a  crowd  of 
tourists  and  curious  ones  gather  before  the  ornamental 
railing  before  it,  to  await  the  loud  crowing  of  the  cock 
upon  the  summit  of  the  structure.  Upon  the  first  gallery 
an  angel  strikes  the  quarters  on  a  bell  held  in  his  hand; 
while  a  figure  at  his  side  reverses  a  sand  glass  on  the 
hour.  Above  appears  a  skeleton,  and  around  him  are 
grouped  figures  supposed  to  represent  childhood,  youth, 
manhood,  and  old  age.  Beneath  the  first  balcony  the 
Saint  proper  to  that  day  steps  out  of  a  niche  when  the 
hour  strikes.  A  complete  planetarium,  behind  which  is  a 
perpetual  calendar,  is  set  in  motion  by  the  mechanism, 
which,  by  some  mysterious  cunning,  is  made  to  regulate 
itself  and  adapt  its  motions  to  the  revolution  of  the  sea- 
sons for  an  apparently  unlimited  space  of  time. 

Much  cannot  be  said  for  the  construction  and  architec- 
tural design  of  the  clock.  It  might  have  been  made  a 
great  work  of  art;  worthy  of  the  great  and  prominent 
place  it  occupies  in  the  Cathedral,  instead  of  which  it  is 
most  clumsy  and  heavy  in  design.     Only  the  top  is 

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ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Gothic  in  form;  all  the  rest  is  hopelessly  German,  and  as 
bizarre  as  only  a  German  could  make  it.  In  line,  it  is 
only  to  be  regarded  as  an  ugly,  big,  and  remarkably  ac- 
curate clock. 

In  Strassburg  whatever  remains  of  the  artistic  and  pic- 
turesque is  clearly  of  French  origin.  Wherever  the  Ger- 
mans have  erected  a  building  there  is  seen  clumsiness, 
misapplication  and  misunderstanding  of  the  principles 
of  art.  "That  singular  and  ingenious  masterpiece,"  as 
Mr.  Ralph  Adams  Cram  has  called  it,  "the  Pillar  of  the 
Angels,  with  its  exquisitely  slender  and  graceful  clus- 
tered shafts  interrupted  with  canopied  niches  containing 
each  a  wonderfully  sculptured  Angel  or  Apostle,  is  all 
French  Gothic  in  its  purest  form,  owing  nothing  to  Ger- 
man skill.  Such  works  of  art  spring  into  being  miracu- 
lously, marking  the  necessity  of  expression  of  the  mo- 
ment. It  is  born  of  deep  feeling  and  enthusiasm.  This 
shaft,  which  remains  to  us  in  all  its  purity,  despite  the 
German  craze  for  reconstruction,  is  the  work  of  Erwin  de 
Steinbach,  a  native  of  Strassburg,  who  was  also  the  Mas- 
ter Architect  of  the  Cathedral.  In  the  House  of  our 
Lady  (Frauenhause)  is  shown  a  statue  of  Erwin,  who  at 
his  death  left  his  favorite  horse,  and  an  annuity  for  the 
benefit  of  his  beloved  Cathedral.  The  epitaph  to  Erwin 
de  Steinbach  is  chiseled  in  a  stone  in  the  chapel  of  Saint 
John  the  Baptist,  and  furnishes  the  date  of  his  death  as 
1318,  "Le  Seize  des  Calendes  de  Fevrier."     Above  the 

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central  door  of  the  f agade,  one  may  read  this  inscription : 
"Anno  Domini  1277,  in  die  beati  urbani  hoc  gloriosum 
opus  inchoavit  Magister  Erwinus  de  Steinbach." 

In  the  House  of  Our  Lady,  in  the  Schlossplatz,  which 
was  built  in  the  fourteenth  century,  is  the  ancient  and 
most  interesting  plan  of  the  Cathedral  on  sheets  of  parch- 
ment, together  with  a  detailed  drawing  of  the  spire 
and  the  fagade,  and  also  the  remains  of  the  old  clock. 
Mr.  Cram  pronounces  the  Strassburg  Cathedral  "much 
more  interesting  and  poetic"  than  Cologne,  "with  greater 
refinement  and  originality  in  design,  though  its  taste  is 
far  from  impeccable,  its  structural  sense  gravely  defi- 
cient. The  tendency  is  wholly  toward  lace-like  and  fan- 
tastic design,  but  it  has  little  resemblance  to  the  late 
French  flamboyant  with  its  curving  and  intersticing 
lines;  instead,  it  is  more  suggestive  of  the  English  per- 
pendicular, with  its  scaffolding  of  vertical  lines  applied 
to,  but  not  a  part  of,  the  basic  fabric.  It  has  no  con- 
sistency of  plan,  for  the  eastern  end,  with  its  semicircular 
apse  and  portions  of  its  transepts,  is  of  a  singularly  noble 
type  of  the  twelfth  century  Romanesque,  while  the  nave 
is  of  the  thirteenth  century,  and  the  tower  and  upper 
portion  of  the  west  front  are  a  hundred  years  later. 

"Confused  as  it  is,  there  is  an  extraordinary  charm 
about  it  all,  for  every  part  is  personal  and  distinguished, 
full  of  novel  and  poetic  ideas  and  all  kinds  of  unaffected 
touches  of  genius.     The  wonderful  color  of  the  exterior 

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ALSACE-LORRAINE 

and  the  singularly  fine  glass  of  the  interior  have  much  to 
do  with  its  general  effect  of  a  delicate  medieval  loveliness 
that  makes  amends  for  its  architectural  shortcomings."  * 

Near  the  House  of  Our  Lady  is  the  ancient  Palace  of 
the  Bishops  of  Strassburg,  built  by  Cardinal  Armand  Gas- 
ton de  Rohan  in  1728,  in  which  was  held  a  most  brilliant 
and  notable  court  by  the  other  three  Bishops  of  the 
Rohan  family.  During  the  first  Revolution  it  was  used 
as  town  headquarters,  and  afterwards  up  to  within  a  few 
years  was  part  of  the  University.  Lately  it  has  been  the 
Art  Museum,  for  which  purpose  it  is  well  fitted,  having 
some  magnificently  decorated  halls  and  rooms  of  the 
eighteenth  century  period.  The  majestic  portal  on  the 
Cathedral  Square  gives  access  to  the  Court  of  Honor, 
where  are  some  thirteenth  century  sarcophagi.  The 
fagade  on  the  111  is  most  sumptuous.  I  remember  there 
a  remarkable  collection  of  little  soldiers  in  metal  repre- 
senting the  Grande  Armee,  the  work  of  a  citizen  of  the 
town,  who  must  have  spent  years  in  making  them.  And 
a  group  of  Prussian  officers  in  uniform  were  studying 
them,  pointing  out  to  one  another  the  miniature  figure  of 
the  Great  Napoleon,  surrounded  by  his  officers,  before 
whom  were  arranged  the  long  lines  of  grenadiers, 
dragoons  and  cuirassiers,  as  if  in  review. 

Near  the  Cathedral  also  is  the  celebrated  house  called 
the  Kammerzell,  perhaps  the  most  picturesque  of  all  the 

*  "Heart  of  Europe."     Ralph  Adams  Cram. 

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houses  in  Strassburg,  of  astonishing  richness  of  design 
and  carving  and  in  a  splendid  state  of  preservation.  It 
has  three  stories  in  relief,  beautiful  windows  framed 
with  curious  sculptures,  a  fagade  of  old  oaken  beams 
highly  ornamented  with  the  signs  of  the  Zodiac,  and  a 
high,  steep,  pent  roof  pierced  with  three  rows  of  small 
windows  in  antique  fashion. 

Following  the  rue  du  Dome  (I  use  the  French  names 
by  preference,  rather  than  the  uncouth  German  ones)  one 
arrives  at  the  Place  de  Broglie.  Formerly  this  was  the 
favorite  promenade  of  the  Strassburgers.  Here  one 
finds  rows  of  cafes,  which  are  well  occupied  by  the  people 
during  the  afternoon  hours,  gossiping  and  drinking  the 
excellent  beer  on  tap.  A  good  military  band  plays  here 
twice  a  week.  Formerly  the  great  yearly  horse  fair  was 
held  in  this  square,  which  the  Romans  named  "Vetus 
Forum  Equorum."  Here,  too,  the  Knights'  Tourneys 
took  place  before  the  Dukes  and  their  ladies.  Opposite 
is  the  superb  hotel  of  the  "In tendance"  of  the  eighteenth 
century,  restored  after  the  Franco-Prussian  war. 

Farther  along  the  111,  beyond  the  new  Palace,  is  the 
ancient  church  of  Saint-Pierre-le-Jeune,  a  splendid 
Gothic  monument  which  lately  has  been  ruined  by  a  Ger- 
man architect  in  his  villainous  so-called  "restorations," 
and  his  following  of  the  German  mania  for  painting 
chromatically  everything  in  sight. 

All  over  the  town  one  sees  evidence  of  this  sort  of  Ger- 

301 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

man  taste,  in  the  University;  the  Postes  and  Telegraphes; 
the  Banks,  and  the  large  heavily  ornamented  shop  fronts. 
One  flees  from  these  horrors,  and  seeks  the  winding  banks 
of  the  river  111,  bordered  by  pretty  walled  spaces,  and 
quaint  turrets,  especially  the  old  houses  on  the  quai  Saint- 
Jean;  the  quai  Tiirckenheim,  and  the  altogether  charm- 
ing quarter  called  "la  petite  France,"  inhabited  by  fisher- 
men, with  the  three  old  square  towers.  Here  are  three 
old  bridges,  formerly  fortified,  of  delightful  character. 
There  are  ancient  timbered  houses  on  the  neighboring 
quais  of  Saint-Nicholas  and  Des  Pecheurs,  with  graceful 
"encorbellements,"  and  noble  lines.  The  antiquary 
finds  here  a  mine  of  wealth  in  sculptured  emblems,  oriels, 
delicately  balanced  balconies  railed  with  wrought  iron, 
quaint  galleries  of  carved  wood,  bearing  strange  effigies 
of  armored  knights  and  heads  of  bears  and  lions,  with 
fabulous  dragons  winding  about  the  pillars. 

In  the  rue  Serruriers  is  the  old  church  of  Saint  Thomas, 
built  upon  the  foundations  of  the  ancient  Palace  of  the 
Franks,  which,  history  says,  was  "burnt  in  the  year  1007," 
and  as  if  this  were  not  far  enough  back,  mentions  a  pre- 
vious convent  which  was  here  in  890.  This  old  church 
is  flanked  by  a  great  square  tower,  which  is  worth  seeing, 
but  the  church  is  remarkable  for  the  admirable  monument 
or  tomb  of  Marshal  de  Saxe,  a  magnificent  mausoleum  in 
marble,  the  chef-d'oeuvre  of  Pigalls,  over  which  he 
labored  for  seventeen  years.     It  bears  the  inscription  : 

302 


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"Mauritio  Saxoni,  Curlandiae  et  Semigalle 

Ducisummo  Regiorum  Exercituum 

Praefecto  Semper  Victor! 

LUDOVICS  XV 

Victoriarum  anctor  et 

ipse  Dux  Poni  Jussit.     Obit 

XXX  Nov  Ad:  MDCCL  Elatis  LV," 

in  precious  homage  to  the  illustrious  victor  of  Fontenoy, 
dead  in  1750  in  the  service  of  France.  I  know  of  no 
other  tomb  of  such  dignity  or  so  fine  as  this  throughout 
the  region.  The  five  figures  are  exquisitely  wrought  in 
detail,  showing  the  Marshal  descending  bravely  the  steps 
leading  to  the  tomb  at  the  summons  of  Death,  heedless 
of  the  outstretched  hand  of  France,  who  seeks  to  restrain 
him.  Power,  with  the  attributes  of  Hercules,  mourns 
his  premature  end,  and  there  are  symbolical  animals 
grouped  about  artistically,  such  as  the  Leopard  of  Eng- 
land; the  Lion  of  Holland  and  the  Eagle  of  Austria, 
which  last  is  represented  falling  backwards  at  the  Mar- 
shal's side,  symbolizing  the  three  powers  defeated  by  him 
in  the  Flemish  wars. 

The  Place  Saint  Thomas  brings  us  to  the  statue  of 
Gutenberg,  the  work  of  David  d' Angers,  erected  in  1840, 
four  hundred  years  after  the  discovery  of  printing,  and 
bearing  the  motto :  "Et  la  Lumiere  f ut."  Gutenberg, 
it  seems,  lived  here  in  Strassburg  until  1444,  when  he 

303 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

went  to  Mayence  to  associate  himself  with  Jean  Fust  and 
Pierre  Scheffer.  Owing  to  a  dispute  with  these  men  he 
separated  from  them  and  established  a  printery  for  him- 
self. Always  in  trouble,  in  debt,  and  ever  improvident, 
he  died  in  1467,  a  pauper.  The  chronicle  of  the  town 
describes  him  as  follows;  In  the  year  1434  there  re- 
sided at  Strassburg  a  young  man,  born  at  Mayence  in 
1400,  named  Johann  Gensfleisch.  As  his  family  pos- 
sessed a  small  property  called  "Zum  Guten  Berg"  (The 
Good  Mountain)  "he  also  often  called  himself  Guten- 
berg." 

Near  at  hand  is  the  site  oT  the  fine  Library,  where  dur- 
ing the  bombardment  by  the  Germans  in  1871  that  in- 
comparable collection  of  precious  and  rare  volumes, 
painted  glass,  and,  above  all,  the  priceless  illuminated 
manuscript  of  Herrade  de  Landsberg,  the  "Hortus  Deli- 
ciarum,"  chef-d'oeuvre  of  the  Master,  and  known  to 
savants  the  world  over,  was  entirely  destroyed.  Of  this 
masterpiece,  M.  Henri  Welschinger  (member  de  I'ln- 
stitut),  writes:  "Marius  Vachon  (in  1882)  has  made 
an  inventory  of  the  lost  treasures,  and  recalls  mournfully 
that  it  was  the  Germany  of  Goethe,  Kant  and  Schiller 
which  burnt  and  destroyed  it."  Thanks  to  the  erudition 
and  patience  of  a  French  critic  there  remains  to  us  the 
only  important  document  saved  from  the  debris  of  the 
Municipal  Library  of  Strassburg,  which  was  burnt  by 

304 


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order  of  General  Werder,  who  was  called  "the  murderer" 
by  the  hapless  people  of  the  town. 

The  celebrated  manuscript  of  Herrade  de  Landsberg, 
known  the  world  over,  was  a  sort  of  resume  of  both  pro- 
fane and  sacred  history  of  the  world  from  the  Creation. 
According  to  the  researches  and  discoveries  of  the  Canon 
of  Straub,  and  carried  on  by  his  successor  Canon  Keller 
(1879-99)  under  the  authority  and  auspices  of  the  So- 
ciety for  the  Preservation  of  Alsatian  Historical  Monu- 
ments, Herrade  de  Landsberg  was  Abbess  of  the  Monas- 
tery of  Hohenburg,  who  had  succeeded  the  Abbess  Re- 
linde,  parent  of  Frederic  Barberousse,  Duke  of  Alsace 
and  Suabia,  and  wrote  and  painted  in  1180  the  "Hortus 
Deliciarum,"  of  which  the  original  text  was  upon  three 
hundred  and  forty-two  sheets  of  vellum.  Mentioned  in 
the  chronicle  of  Hohenbourg  as  being  part  of  the  castle's 
treasure  in  the  year  1521,  it  afterwards  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  Bishop  Erasmus  of  Limbourg  and  Saverne, 
who  retained  it  until  1609,  when  it  was  deposited  at  the 
Chartreuse  of  Molsheim,  where  it  was  copied  by  the 
monkish  illuminators.  In  1790  it  was  returned  to  the 
Library  of  the  department,  from  which  Canon  Rumpler 
reclaimed  it  in  1794  in  the  name  of  the  Landsberg  family. 
Later  the  Library  again  regained  possession  of  it  through 
the  efforts  of  the  Director.  Louis  Philippe  granted  the 
Count  de  Bastard  permission  to  make  a  copy  of  the  won- 

305 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

derful  manuscript  and  its  illuminations  for  his  work, 
'Teinture  et  ornement  des  manuscrits,"  on  condition  of 
furnishing  a  copy  to  the  National  Library.  The  Society 
of  Alsace,  profoundly  moved  by  the  loss  of  the  original, 
ordered  the  publication,  using  the  work  of  Count  de  Bas- 
tard and  such  fragments  of  reproductions  found  in  the 
(Frauenhaus)  House  of  Our  Lady,  and  such  sketches  of 
Engelhard  and  others  as  they  could  find.  The  work  is, 
of  course,  incomplete  and  more  or  less  fragmentary,  for 
out  of  a  total  of  the  three  hundred  and  six  original  de- 
signs, only  two  hundred  and  thirty-two  could  be  found, 
but  even  so  it  remains  a  magnificent  monument  to  the 
skill  of  Herrade  de  Landsberg,  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able personages  of  the  Middle  Ages,  and  one  of  the  great- 
est glories  of  Alsace. 

This  pious  Lady  not  only  produced  in  the  "Hortus 
Deliciarum"  a  collection  of  the  poetry  of  the  time,  but 
arranged  a  sort  of  encyclopedia  of  the  Sciences.  The 
manuscript  was  written  in  German  characters  in  the 
Latin  of  the  twelfth  century.  On  every  page  was  a  deli- 
cate painting  illustrating  the  text.  She  made  with  the 
greatest  care  extracts  of  the  Old  and  the  New  Testament, 
and  the  works  of  Saints  Augustin,  Isadore,  Gregory, 
Jerome,  Saint  John  Chrysostome,  Pierre  Lombard,  Bede, 
Clement  Romain,  etc.,  denoting  great  and  extended  eru- 
dition upon  her  part.  Dissertations  upon  chronology, 
astronomy,  geography,  mythology  were  contained  in  the 

306 


STRASSBURG 

work  entitled  ''Aurea  Gemma."  It  contained  a  sort  of 
"cantique"  or  "salut,"  addressed  by  the  author  to  her 
companions  at  the  monastery  of  Hohenbourg.  The 
exact  text  is  as  follows :  "Rhymthmus  Herradis  abbatis- 
sal  per  quam  Hohenburgensis  Virgunculas  amabiliter 
salutat  et  veri  Sponsi  iidem  dilectionemque  salubriter 
invitat."  After  a  "cantique"  of  Invocation,  Herrade 
wrote  a  preface  in  Latin  prose  explaining  the  purpose  of 
her  books,  saying  that  it  was  called  the  Jardin  des  Delices 
because  it  was  composed  by  the  sweetness  of  many  flowers 
of  the  Holy  Scriptures.  "Qu'elle  avait  recueille  et 
transforme  en  un  miel  delicieux  comme  un  abeille  vigi- 
lante sous  I'inspiration  de  Dieu,  pour  I'honneur  du  Christ 
et  de  son  Eglise,  aussi,  les  engageait  elle  a  servir  de  ce 
miel  comme  un  aliment  de  leur  ame,  aiin  qu'etant  pene- 
trees  des  delices  spirituelles,  elles  vecussent  sur  la  terre 
en  toute  securite  et  arrivassent  a  jouir  de  Testernelle 
felicite." 

Then  followed  many  pious  extracts  on  the  Creator,  the 
Angels;  the  Creation  of  the  world  and  immortality. 
There  were  also  curious  notions  regarding  the  principles 
of  existence  and  divinity,  interspersed  with  dissertations 
upon  the  garden  and  the  culture  of  fields,  land  and  sea, 
the  winds,  physical  geography,  the  stars  and  the  Zodiac. 
One  curious  decoration,  entitled  "Ludus  Monstrorum," 
showed  the  figures  of  two  men  separated  by  a  table,  and 
holding  in  their  hands  the  ends  of  two  cords  on  which 

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ALSACE-LORRAINE 

were  suspended  two  small  dolls,  costumed  as  cavaliers 
and  armed  "cap  a  pie,"  who  were  made  to  perform  by 
pulling  the  cords,  something  like  those  figures  of  mar- 
ionettes, beloved  by  children.  Under  this  picture  was  a 
lengthy  allegory  of  Ulysses  and  the  three  Sirens,  a  study 
of  the  offices  of  the  church,  and  a  collection  of  precepts 
on  the  diverse  states  of  society  and  the  duties  of  the  indi- 
vidual. Then  followed  a  little  verse  against  the  prac- 
tise of  usury,  a  dissertation  upon  Anti-Christ,  and  a  list 
of  the  Popes  up  to  Clement  IIL  Some  calendars  and  in- 
genious chronological  combinations  ended  the  collection. 
But  it  was  the  naive  paintings  and  illuminations  that 
lent  most  value  to  the  great  book,  showing  armor,  archi- 
tecture, costumes  and  furniture  and  such  things  in  the 
greatest  detail. 

The  Germans,  vaunting  ever  their  perfect  "Kultur,** 
did  not  hesitate  to  destroy  this  incomparable  manuscript, 
together  with  thousands  of  other  precious  books  con- 
tained in  the  Strassburg  Library,  even  as  they  destroyed 
and  burned  the  Library  at  Lou  vain  in  1914. 

Following  the  rue  Hu  Jeu-des-Enf  ants,  one  comes  upon 
the  most  ancient  building  in  Strassburg,  the  hoary  old 
church  of  Pierre-le-Vieux,  which  is  said  to  date  from  a.  d. 
6a  Here  are  found  some  fine  paintings  of  the  Martin 
Schongauer  school,  and  four  bas-reliefs  by  the  sculptor 
Wagner,  which  are  most  interesting.  Continuing  along 
the  banks  of  the  111,  one  passes  the  German  garrison,  ever 

308 


STRASSBURG 

an  eyesore  to  the  loyal  Alsatians,  and  through  the  AUee 
de  Robertsan  reaches  the  promenade  of  Le  Notre  and  the 
Orangerie,  the  most  beautiful  park  in  the  city.  The 
Jardin  des  Contades  is  no  more;  this  charming  place, 
where  formerly  the  quaint  "Kermis"  was  held  annually; 
where  the  brightly  painted  booths  of  the  marionettes 
were  surrounded  by  spell-bound  children,  who  watched 
with  delight  the  trials  of  "Mere  Michel,"  and  "Gene- 
vieve de  Brabant,"  is  gone.  Gone,  too,  is  the  celebrated 
restaurant  Lips,  where  diners  used  to  throw  bread  crusts 
down  to  a  huge  black  bear  in  a  sort  of  deep  well.  Gone 
is  the  large  cage  of  storks,  beloved  of  children.  In  its 
place  is  a  huge  ugly  modern  German  building,  looking 
entirely  out  of  place,  of  course,  and  a  standing  example 
of  the  Teutonic  lack  of  taste. 

Of  course  one  must  make  mention  of  what  is  perhaps 
the  most  characteristic  feature  of  Strassburg,  the  storks. 
These  large  and  curious-looking  birds  are  the  joy  of  the 
children,  and  the  pride  of  the  townspeople,  who  have  a 
superstitious  affection  for  them.  The  school  children 
have  a  pretty  little  song,  which  they  sing  in  the  spring 
when  they  are  looking  for  the  appearance  of  the  first 
comer.     It  runs : 

Ci-gogn,  Ci-gogn,  t'as  d'la  chance, 
Tous  les  ans  tu  pass's  en  France 
Ci-gogn,  Ci-gogn,  rapport  nous, 
Dans  ton  bee  un  p' tit  piou-piou ! 

309 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

First  comes  an  old  bird,  who  circles  about  the  roof-tops, 
looking  for  a  good  place  to  begin  the  new  nest,  or  to  see 
if  the  old  one  is  still  where  she  left  it  in  the  first  chill  late 
autumn  day.  A  pretty  little  girl  informed  me  with  an 
air  of  great  gravity  and  confidence  "that  the  storks  came 
every  year  from  Prussia;  that  they  bore  on  their  wings  the 
Prussian  colors,  black  and  white,  but  that  it  was  not  their 
fault,  it  was  in  punishment  for  a  sin  which  the  first  stork 
had  committed — oh — ages  and  ages  ago;  that  they  had 
also  very  large  mouths — 'toute  comme  les  Prussians/ 
and  that  they  went  away  to  find  a  warm  place  in  the  win- 
ter, but  returned  in  the  spring  to  count  all  the  new  babies 
that  had  arrived  during  their  absence." 

The  people  in  the  older  parts  of  the  town  cast  out  on 
the  roofs  of  the  houses  small  bundles  of  faggots,  which 
serve  as  foundations  for  the  nests,  and  for  days  after  their 
arrival  the  early  morning  hours  are  melodious  with  the 
whistling  of  the  birds,  busily  preparing  the  great,  shaggy 
nests.  In  olden  times  it  was  customary  to  greet  the  first 
arrivals  by  blowing  a  horn.  Even  now,  the  people  be- 
lieve that  storks  nesting  on  one's  chimney- top  bring  good 
luck  to  all  beneath  that  roof  tree,  and  that  no  lightning 
will  ever  strike  a  house  so  protected.  They  say  that 
should  a  stork  alight  on  the  street  before  a  young  girl 
and  walk  toward  her,  it  is  an  unfailing  sign  of  her  early 
engagement  in  marriage.     In  upper  Alsace  the  school 

310 


,„^,vX*A».lu>J%. 


e> 


^ 


STRASSBURG 
boys  sing  a  song  something  like  this  in  the  dialect: 

Storik,  Storik,  Langabein! 
Dra  mi  uf'm  Buckel  heim. 

Wohi — wohi? 
In's  Alsace  ni. 

that  is : . 

Stork,  Stork  Longlegs, 
Take  me  home  on  your  back — 

Where  to*? 
To  Alsace. 

As  soon  as  the  nest  is  finished,  the  birds  take  turns  in  sit- 
ing on  the  large  eggs,  and  in  a  short  time  the  scrawny 
young  are  hatched  out.  It  is  most  amusing  to  watch  the 
parent  birds  teaching  the  young  to  balance  and  fly,  and 
later  to  steal  any  light  object  left  within  their  reach. 
They  seek  their  food  on  the  banks  of  rivers  and  in  marshy 
places,  eating  an  astonishing  number  of  frogs  and  mice, 
which  they  skillfully  catch.  M.  Charles  Grad,  in  his 
book,  "Alsace,"  tells  touchingly  of  seeing  the  return  of 
the  flock  of  storks  to  Strassburg  in  the  month  of  March, 
1871,  when  they  flew  distractedly  over  the  ruins,  vainly 
seeking  their  old  nesting  places,  which  were  destroyed  in 
the  bombardment.  There  is  a  town  ordinance  which  pro- 
tects them,  but  no  law  is  necessary  for  their  protection,  so 
beloved  are  they.  Even  in  the  very  oldest  engravings  of 
the  town  the  bird  is  shown  on  the  chimney  tops  of  the 
quaint  old  timbered  and  dormered  houses  of  the  Market 

311 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Place,  notably  over  the  "Pfennigthurm/*  a  high  and 
square  tower  which  stood  at  the  angle  of  the  "Barfusser- 
platz,"  now  the  Place  Kleber. 

Loyal  Alsatians  would  not  think  of  leaving  Strassburg 
without  going  out  to  Kehl  by  tramway,  to  salute  the 
statue  of  the  brave  Desaix,  erected  by  Napoleon  I  to  the 
hero  of  Marengo.  On  the  east  side  is  a  tremendous  new 
iron  bridge  over  the  river,  each  end  of  which  is  orna- 
mented by  most  beautifully  designed  gateways,  sur- 
mounted by  artistic  Gothic  spires  springing  from  open 
galleries.  One  cannot  but  contrast  this  beautiful  bridge 
with  those  ugly  towers  over  our  own  East  River,  and 
wonder  why  it  is  that  we  can  not  have  structures  embod)^- 
ing  the  artistic  as  well  as  the  purely  useful.  Here  for- 
merly were  very  old  bridges  of  boats  across  the  river, 
which  must  have  been  very  picturesque  and  archaic;  but 
there  is  nothing  archaic  here  now.  Long  lines  of  heavily- 
laden  barges,  with  a  forest  of  masts,  are  stretched  along 
the  busy  quays,  and  in  the  distance  is  a  heavy  curtain  of 
dark  green  poplars,  behind  which  lies  the  land  whose 
ruthless  ruler  dominates  these  fair  lost  Provinces  of 
France. 


312 


Wif  Bftd  %mm 


^I^N  a  triangle  of  territory  formed  by  the  prolonga- 
II  tion  of  the  forest  of  Nonnenbrusch  (le  taillis  des 
^^  Moines) ,  of  which  the  base  extends  from  Cernay  to 
Mulhouse,  where  the  point  rests  between  the  villages  of 
Wittelsheim  and  Ensisheim,  and  at  the  confluence  of 
the  rivers  Thur  and  Fill,  lies  the  real  reason  of  Ger- 
many's present  refusal  even  to  consider  the  restoration 
of  the  provinces  to  France. 

This  refusal  has  nothing  to  do  with  affection  for  the 
German  inhabitants;  or  for  the  beauty  of  the  great  for- 
ests ;  or  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  strongholds  and  chateaux 
scattered  over  the  region.  And  it  certainly  is  not  con- 
cerned with  the  lives  of  the  devoted  and  patriotic  French 
people  who,  in  spite  of  the  intolerable  conditions  im- 
posed upon  them  by  the  usurper,  cling  so  tenaciously  to 
this  fair  land,  conditions  which  have  during  the  last 
forty-eight  years  brought  them  to  the  very  verge  of  de- 
spair; conditions  which  I  have  hardly  touched  upon  in 
this  brief  and  fragmentary  account  of  their  lives  and 
customs. 

The  real  reason,  apart  from  the  military  value  of  the 
mountain   barrier   so    wonderfully   fortified   since    the 

315 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Franco-Prussian  war,  lies  beneath  the  soil,  so  enriched  by 
the  blood  of  the  French  patriots. 

Under  this  sacred  soil  lies  a  vast  treasure  house  in 
which  nature  has  stored  a  material  which  plays  a  tre- 
mendous part  in  the  prosperity  of  nations.  Not  only 
are  there  rich  mines  of  silver,  copper,  cobalt,  arsenic,  and 
iron,  scattered  over  the  region  and  in  the  valley  of 
Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines,  but  there  are  here  vast  mines 
of  potash,  without  which  Germany  cannot  exist.  I  en- 
deavored to  obtain  some  facts  regarding  these  potash 
mines,  but  my  questions  were  evaded.  Attempts  which 
I  made  to  turn  conversations  upon  the  subject  were  most 
skilfully  blocked.  Town  officials  whom  I  approached, 
while  most  affable  and  polite  so  long  as  I  confined  my 
questions  to  purely  social  matters,  promptly  became  in- 
communicative when  my  inquiries  touched  upon  matters 
connected  with  these  mines.  So  I  became  even  more 
curious  regarding  them.  But  beyond  the  following 
facts  regarding  their  discovery  and  exploitation,  I  could 
gain  nothing. 

In  the  year  1879  ^^^  Gustav  Dollfus,  a  citizen  of 
Mulhouse  who  was  engaged  in  mining  experiments  at 
Dornach,  discovered  traces  of  salt  of  potassium  at  a 
depth  of  one  hundred  yards.  He  promptly  reported 
this  discovery  to  his  principals,  but  for  some  reason  his 
report  was  pigeonholed  and  no  action  was  taken  upon  it, 
as  far  as  he  could  discover.     Shortly  afterwards  he  was 

316 


t0J.-^  ^F   •-       *^  - 


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:4'^'lij:W^-. 


H^.^ 

J^iir^-^ 

^'*'*^^^ 

n    ^^ 

\^    .  ->c--». 

I  E 


7V    ^    :■-•< 


':i*. 


THE  REAL  REASON 

appointed  to  a  position  requiring  his  removal  to  a  distant 
town. 

Apparently  the  vast  wealth  lay  concealed  until  the 
year  1904,  when  M.  Joseph  Vogt,  the  head  of  the  house 
of  Vogt  Brothers  of  Niederbruck  in  Upper  Alsace,  con- 
ceived the  idea  of  exploring  the  locality  for  petroleum. 

Under  the  researches  of  M.  Vogt  and  two  prominent 
engineers,  Burcher  and  Griser,  a  great  deposit  of  salt  of 
potash  was  revealed  at  a  depth  of  some  six  or  seven  hun- 
dred metres.  After  two  years  of  experimenting  and 
tentative  borings,  they  formed  a  company  with  the  aid 
of  capitalists  called  the  "Societe  Anceli,"  and  sunk  one 
hundred  and  thirty  shafts  in  the  territory.  These  being 
productive,  they  obtained  the  further  concession  of 
19,000  hectares  of  land,  which  was  immediately  ex- 
ploited with  the  result  that  at  the  beginning  of  the  war 
(1914)  the  mines  produced  800  tons  daily. 

Some  time  during  the  summer  of  1914  the  mines  were 
quietly  absorbed  by  a  powerful  Prussian  company  known 
as  the  ''Deutsche  Kaliverke."  The  mines  were  known 
under  the  names  of  "Marie";  "Max";  "Joseph";  "Elsa"; 
and  "Marie  Louise."  These  were  united  with  three 
other  groups  comprising  the  "Winterschall,"  which  in- 
cludes the  "Theodor";  the  "Prince  Eugene,"  near  Wit- 
tenheim;  the  "Hohenzollern,"  and  the  great  group 
known  as  the  "Alsacien-Frangaise,"  the  latter  founded 
for  the  exploitation  of  "Sainte-Therese,"  which  includes 

317 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

the  companies  working  the  mines  known  as  "Alex"  and 
"Rudolf."  The  "Prince  Eugene,"  near  Wittenheim, 
comprises  about  3,209  hectares  of  land,  and  produces 
salt  of  which  25  per  cent,  is  chloride  of  potassium. 

The  "Alex"  and  "Rudolf"  cover  nearly,  if  not  quite, 
6,600  hectares  of  land,  according  to  my  informant. 
M.  P.  Sallior,  writing  in  La  Nature,^  says  that  "In  1909, 
northeast  of  Mulhouse,  a  great  deposit  of  potash  was 
found.  This  mine  was  named  'Amelie'  of  Wittels- 
heim."  The  first  shafts  were  crushed  by  "congelation." 
These  shafts  cost  2,500,000  francs  and  two  years  of  work. 
The  first  cars  filled  with  the  potash  were  sent  up  from 
the  mine  in  January,  19 10,  and  the  deposit  was  found 
to  be  of  incredible  richness.  In  1912  the  working  force 
was  increased  to  200  miners  and  the  daily  extraction 
totaled  300  tons,  each  mine  producing  one  and  one  half 
tons. 

The  potash  veins  are  red  and  gray  in  color  alter- 
nately, being  a  mixture  of  chlorate  of  potash  and  chlor- 
ate of  sodium.  The  Reichweiler  factory  is  equipped 
for  the  daily  treatment  of  260  tons  of  pure  mineral, 
which  produces  from  40  to  50  tons  of  chlorate  of  potas- 
sium. 

The  "Amelie"  mine  exploited  to-day  (1918)  produces 
9,000  tons  of  rough  salt  corresponding  to  fifteen  wagons 
per  diem.     Increased  facilities  have  resulted  in  an  out- 

*  "La  Nature,"  Deuxieme  Semestre,  1917. 

318 


THE  REAL  REASON 

put  of  800,000  tons  per  annum.  The  cost  per  ton  to 
produce  is  fifteen  francs,  and  the  product  is  sold  at  the 
mine  for  thirty  francs  per  ton.  These  then  are  some  of 
the  riches  of  Alsace-Lorraine  upon  which  Germany  has 
had  a  strangle  hold  for  the  last  forty-eight  years.  What 
a  role  this  territory  will  play  when  Germany  is  called 
upon  to  'pay  up"  after  her  defeat! 


319 


Wif  iLtrad  of  fSmt 


Wi^  iLmid  of  ^m% 


m 


HEN  one  speaks  of  Alsatians,  one  means  by 
this  designation  those  inhabitants  born  of 
parents  whose  ancestors  have  always  been  Al- 
satians, or  more  liberally,  those  whose  parents  were  citi- 
zens of  the  Provinces  of  Alsace-Lorraine  prior  to  the 
Franco-Prussian  war.  The  settlers  from  Germany 
(called  "immigres"  by  the  people)  and  their  descendants 
since  that  date  are  never  really  or  openly  recognized  as 
Alsatians  by  the  "ancients,"  as  they  style  themselves, 
from  whom  by  their  nationality,  their  morality  and  habit 
of  thought  and  manners,  they  are  separated  by  an  insur- 
mountable barrier.  Forced  to  daily  commerce  with  the 
invaders,  they  limit  it  to  the  most  formal  intercourse; 
there  can  never  be  a  common  ground  of  intimacy  between 
them,  opposed  as  they  are  by  both  sentiment  and  feeling. 
This  line  of  separation  is  marked  by  the  absence  of  all 
social  relations.  They  have  separate  clubs  and  circles, 
also  marriages  between  the  "immigres"  and  the  Alsatians 
are  very  rare.  They  are  frowned  upon.  An  Alsatian 
girl  who  so  far  forgot  her  country  and  her  people  would 
be  socially  dead.     Should  it  be  necessary  for  an  Alsatian 

323 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

to  sit  in  public  with  the  German  officials  at  some  cere- 
mony, his  private  character  or  opinions  are  not  thus  sacri- 
ficed, but  he  does  not  for  one  moment  permit  intimacy  of 
any  sort  from  the  officials.  These  seek  in  every  way,  one 
is  told,  to  introduce  and  force  themselves  into  the  exclu- 
sive circles  of  the  native  born,  but  they  rarely  succeed. 
This  state  of  affairs  facilitates  the  solution  of  the  pres- 
ent problem  for  the  Alsatians,  who  are  making  ready 
to  take  once  more  their  place  as  part  of  the  French 
nation. 

The  Alsatians  are  French,  body  and  soul.  It  will 
never  be  possible  for  Prussia  to  make  them  any  other 
than  French.  The  Alsatians  hate  the  Germans.  Any 
traveler,  such  as  the  writer,  who  merely  passed  through 
the  Provinces,  could  plainly  judge  of  the  attitude  of  the 
people  towards  the  invaders.  It  was  impossible  to  mis- 
take it.  Of  a  population  of  nineteen  hundred  thousand 
inhabitants,  the  hated  "immigres"  number  four  hundred 
thousand,  inclusive  of  the  military,  the  German  officials 
and  their  families.  It  will  be  seen  then  that  Germany 
has  left  little  undone  in  the  last  forty-seven  years  in  the 
attempt  to  Teutonize  the  land. 

Let  us  see,  briefly,  just  how  the  Germans  administer 
the  affairs  of  these  unfortunate  and  suffering  people, 
against  their  will.  The  executive  power  is,  of  course,  in 
the  hands  of  the  German  Emperor.     A  "Statthalter'*  is 

324 


THE  LAND  OF  TEARS 

appointed  by  him,  with  delegated  powers,  which  he 
divides  with  a  so-called  chef  de  rAdministration,  styled 
Minister  of  Alsace-Lorraine.  All  other  Ministers,  Sec- 
retaries of  State,  and  under  Secretaries  and  functionaries, 
down  to  well-nigh  the  smallest  clerk,  are  named  by  the 
Emperor. 

The  Ministry  of  Alsace-Lorraine  is  divided  into  four 
offices  as  follows:  Interior,  Finances,  Justice,  Instruc- 
tion, the  latter  under  an  official  designated  as  "Ober- 
schulrat." 

The  laws  of  Alsace-Lorraine  are  subject  to  the  appro- 
bation of  the  Emperor,  and  are  submitted  to  him  by  the 
Landesausschuss  and  the  Bundesrat.  There  is  a  "Land- 
tag," or  Parliament,  composed  of  two  chambers.  The 
first  is  that  of  the  members  of  the  right,  who  are  those 
"elected,"  and  those  named  and  appointed  by  the  Em- 
peror. Five  of  these  are  the  Bishops  of  Strassburg  and 
Metz;  the  two  presidents  of  the  Protestant  Cults;  and 
the  president  of  the  Court  of  Appeals  of  Colmar.  Eigh- 
teen members  elected  are  as  follows :  a  representative  of 
the  Israelite  consistory,  chosen  from  their  own  body;  one 
from  the  University  of  Strassburg,  elected  by  the  profes- 
sors of  the  University;  four  representatives  of  the  towns 
of  Strassburg,  Mulhouse,  Metz  and  Colmar,  elected  by 
the  municipalities;  four  members  elected  by  the  Cham- 
bers of  Commerce  of  these  towns ;  six  elected  by  the  Coun- 

325 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

cil  of  Agriculture,  of  whom  one  is  chosen  from  among  the 
small  proprietors;  and  the  remaining  two  elected  by  the 
Chamber  of  Artisans  of  Alsace-Lorraine. 

The  Constitution  apparently  provides  for  a  represen- 
tative of  the  workmen,  but  this  is  said  to  be  a  farce.  The 
Emperor  has  the  right  to  name  substitutes,  and  to  reject 
any  or  all  who  are  elected.  Comment  is  unnecessary. 
The  members  are  elected  for  five  years.  The  Second 
Chamber  is  composed  of  sixty  deputies  elected  by  the 
electoral  districts  for  five  years,  by  secret  ballot.  These 
two  chambers  have  the  right  to  formulate  and  propose 
the  passage  of  bills  and  laws,  but  these  must  have  the 
sanction  of  the  Emperor  and  the  Prime  Minister  at  Ber- 
lin before  they  can  be  passed!  Comment  again  is  un- 
necessary. 

The  "Statthalter,"  provided  by  Berlin,  gives  ''instruc- 
tions" to  the  delegates  of  Alsace-Lorraine,  and  it  may  be 
taken  for  granted  that  these  "instructions"  are  entirely 
in  accord  with  the  views  of  the  Prime  Minister  and  the 
Emperor. 

Those  ancient  laws  of  the  second  Empire,  which  were 
abrogated  in  France  as  being  against  the  liberties  which 
should  obtain  in  a  modern  state,  were  revived  and  put  in 
force  by  order  of  the  Emperor.  The  most  unpopular  and 
unjust  of  these  are  maintained  and  constantly  cited  by 
the  German  officials  to  prove  to  the  Alsatians  that  Ger- 
man laws  are  so  much  more  enlightened  and  modern  than 

326 


THE  LAND  OF  TEARS 

those  of  France,  and  that  "in  time,"  these  oppressive  laws 
shall  be  repealed.  To  prove  how  Germany  has  con- 
tinued to  treat  Alsace-Lorraine  as  a  foreign  territory: 
up  to  the  year  1902  the  Statthalter  was  directed  "in  case 
of  danger  to  public  security  to  use  immediately  all  or  any 
measures  which  he  judged  necessary."  This  was  after- 
wards abrogated,  but  its  spirit  remains  against  all  the 
pretended  guarantees  of  civil  rights  under  the  adroitly- 
worded  constitution.  Let  any  question  whatever  con- 
cerning their  rights  be  brought  up  for  discussion,  and  the 
people  are  conclusively  shown  that  they  have  no  rights, 
save  those  designated  as  such  by  the  Emperor.  This  is 
the  situation  at  present  (1918) . 

Germany  has  endeavored  to  confuse  the  world  regard- 
ing Alsace-Lorraine,  yet  the  matter  is  perfectly  plain,  o^ 
Alsace-Lorraine  always  has  and  does  still  vehemently  ^ 
protest  against  the  German  yoke.  Even  Germany  will 
not  venture  to  assert  that  the  provinces  were  taken  from 
France  with  the  consent  of  their  inhabitants,  and  now, 
after  forty  eight  years  they  are  still  protesting  against 
the  alien  domination.  The  criminal  acts  of  the  Ger- 
mans in  the  invaded  territories  during  the  last  three 
years  are  a  carrying  out  in  a  larger  way  of  the  indignities 
practised  by  them  in  Alsace-Lorraine.  Louvain  and 
Ypres  and  Malines  are  but  aggrandisements  of  the 
Zabern  affair. 

Alsace-Lorraine  has  been  the  laboratory  in  which  the 

327 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Germans  have  nurtured  those  noxious  germs  with  which 
they  are  strewing  Europe.  In  the  "land  of  tears"  the  in- 
vaders have  demonstrated  the  "doctrine  of  force  and  the 
gospel  of  terror  as  applied  to  a  helpless  people."  Evi- 
dently they  care  nothing  for  the  people,  to  whom  they  toss 
the  dried  crusts  which  constitute  the  so-called  self-gov- 
ernment accorded  to  the  provinces  in  the  "Chambres  des 
Deputes  d'Alsace-Lorraine."  There  can  be  no  peace  in 
Europe  until  both  Belgium  and  Alsace-Lorraine  are  re- 
stored, the  first  to  its  rightful  independence;  the  second 
to  France.     The  principle  at  issue  is  the  same  with  both. 

Twice  now  Germany  has  thrust  her  blood-stained 
sword  into  the  vitals  of  Europe,  carving  away  each  time 
greatly  coveted  cities  and  regions  rich  in  minerals.  Now 
the  Teuton  attempts  to  hold  and  control  a  great  highway 
across  Europe,  including  the  rich  potash  and  iron  dis- 
tricts of  Lorraine  and  the  Belfort  gate  to  Tranche  Comte. 
Germany  and  the  Kaiser  have  in  their  minds  the  picture 
of  a  great  Teutonic  Empire  surrounded  by  enslaved 
states  obedient,  mutilated  and  crushed  to  her  will,  yet 
contributing  to  her  might,  a  dream  that  must  not,  shall 
not  be  realized. 

Written  in  the  soul  of  every  loyal  Alsatian  in  letters 
of  blood  against  a  background  of  fire,  is  the  treaty  of 
Frankfort,  dated  May  lo,  1871.  Article  one  reads  as 
follows;  "France  renounces,  in  favor  of  the  German 
Empire,  all  rights  and  titles  to  the  territories  situated 

328 


THE  LAND  OF  TEARS 

east  of  the  boundaries  designated  below.  The  German 
Empire  shall  possess  these  territories  forever  in  full  sov- 
ereignty and  ownership." 

This  is  the  loot  won  in  the  Franco-Prussian  war,  Al- 
sace-Lorraine. Professor  Charles  Downer  Hazen,  of 
Columbia  College/  sums  the  matter  up  as  follows :  "No 
honest  man  believes  that  because  Germany  has  controlled 
a  tenth  of  France  for  the  past  three  years  she  has  the 
slightest  right  to  that  territory  or  ever  will  have,  or  ever 
could  have.  If  she  should  keep  her  grip  upon  them  for 
forty  years  and  more,  as  she  has  kept  it  upon  Alsace-Lor- 
raine, she  would  have  no  greater  right  than  on  the  first 
day  of  her  unspeakable  aggression.  There  is  no  more  a 
question  of  Alsace-Lorraine  to-day,  after  forty-eight 
years  of  occupation,  than  there  is  of  the  Department  of 
the  North  after  three  years  of  occupation.  If  the  Ger- 
man annexations  of  1870  are  justified,  then  the  actual 
annexations  of  the  present  war  are  justified.  The  two 
cases  stand  upon  an  absolute  parity.  The  people  of 
Alsace-Lorraine  have  never  admitted  the  right,  they  have 
only  admitted  the  fact,  of  German  rule,  as  no  doubt  the 
peasants  of  northern  France  have  done  and  are  perforce 
doing  at  the  present  moment. 

"Ought  there  to  be  a  referendum  *?  No  one  would 
think  of  demanding  that  a  popular  vote  should  be  taken 
in  the  Department  of  the  North,  for  instance,  to  see  if  it 

*  "Alsace-Lorraine  under  Grerman  Rule,"  Charles  Downer  Hazen. 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

should  become  French  again.  There  is  no  more  reason 
for  consulting  Alsace-Lorraine,  taken  forty-six  years  ago, 
by  precisely  the  same  methods. 

'If  the  proposition  had  actually  been  realized,  made 
in  1917  by  the  German  Secretary  to  the  Mexican  Gov- 
ernment that,  for  services  to  be  rendered  to  Germany 
by  Mexico  and  Japan  by  their  waging  war  upon  the 
United  States,  Mexico  should  be  rewarded  by  the  ac- 
quisition of  Texas,  New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  does  any 
sane  person  believe  that  the  people  of  the  United  States, 
or  the  people  of  the  States  concerned,  would,  after  forty 
years,  have  consented  to  submit  the  question  of  their  re- 
turn to  the  United  States  to  a  popular  vote,  conducted  by 
the  Mexican  Government*? 

"The  practical  difficulties  in  the  way  of  a  referendum 
arise  from  the  initial  act  of  violence.  Who  would  be  the 
citizens  of  Alsace-Lorraine  entitled  to  vote  and  to  decide 
by  their  vote  the  fate  of  the  Provinces'?  Should  they 
be  only  the  present  residents?  But  over  four  hundred 
thousand  Alsatians  and  Lorrainers  have,  owing  to  the  an- 
nexation, left  their  country  without  hope  of  return,  and 
have  kept  their  love  of  it  undimmed  in  the  bitterness  of 
exile,  of  poignant  separation  from  friends  and  relatives. 
Are  they  and  their  sons,  who  have  paid  this  heavy  price 
for  their  fidelity  to  the  fundamental  principle  in  which 
every  true  American  believes  and  must  believe,  because 
it  is  the  very  cornerstone  of  our  national  independence 

330 


THE  LAND  OF  TEARS 

and  freedom,  are  these  people  to  have  nothing  to  say  at 
the  time  when  the  reunion  of  their  provinces  with  France 
is  among  the  possibilities,  and  are  the  Germanizing 
agents  and  immigrants  in  Alsace  to  have  the  vote  in  such 
a  plebiscite'?  Again,  who  would  conduct  the  referen- 
dum? In  view  of  the  ruthless  regime  of  murder,  impris- 
onment, espionage  and  delation  which  Germany  installed 
in  the  provinces  in  August,  1914,  would  a  referendum 
conducted  under  German  authority  be  apt  to  be  honest 
and  scrupulous  *?  This  issue  does  not  admit  of  compro- 
mise. It  must  be  kept  as  clear  cut  as  it  is  in  its  essential 
nature.  The  principle  at  the  basis  of  the  Treaty  of 
Frankfort  must  be  repudiated  and  emphatically  discred- 
ited by  its  complete  and  resounding  reversal.  Never  at 
any  time  has  Alsace-Lorraine  admitted  that  it  was  Ger- 
man. It  declared  the  Treaty  of  Frankfort  null  and  void, 
and  it  has  never  rescinded  that  declaration. 

"The  character  of  the  German  Government  for  forty- 
eight  years,  the  very  provisions  of  German  legislation 
during  all  those  years;  the  measures  of  the  German  ad- 
ministration; the  occasional  admissions  of  German  of- 
ficials as  to  the  real  situation,  all  show  that  the  official 
affirmation  that  Alsace-Lorraine  has  become  thoroughly 
German  has  not  been  believed  even  in  the  official  circles 
which  have  made  the  affirmation.  Their  conduct  has 
belied  their  words.  Has  German  policy  in  Alsace-Lor- 
raine at  any  time  since  1 870  been  based  upon  the  theory 

331 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

that  a  people  who  admittedly  were  opposed  to  annexa- 
tion have  become  reconciled  and  are  loyal  Germans? 
What  has  Germany  done  to  turn  hatred  into  love,  dis- 
satisfaction into  contentment*? 

"Friedrich  Naumann  has  admitted  in  his  recent  book  ^ 
that  'the  modern  Germans  almost  everywhere  in  the 
world  are  unfortunately  bad  Germanizers.'  There  is 
no  more  notorious  commonplace  in  European  politics 
than  the  egregious  failure  of  the  German  to  Germanize 
or  even  conciliate.  Germany's  Polish,  Danish  and 
French  subjects  are  eloquent  witnesses  to  this  incapacity. 
Germany  can  hold  people  in  subjection;  she  cannot  or 
will  not  give  them  freedom. 

"It  has  been  suggested  that  Alsace-Lorraine  be  made 
an  independent  and  autonomous  monarchy  with  a  royal 
house  of  its  own  within  the  German  Empire.  It  also 
has  been  suggested  that  it  be  made  an  independent  and 
naturalized  state  outside  the  German  Empire  as  well  as 
outside  France.  These  are  but  ways  of  evading  the 
problem,  not  ways  of  repairing  a  grievous  wrong  which 
has  been  and  still  is  a  serious  public  injury,  an  offense 
to  the  world's  sense  of  justice,  and  a  menace  to  the 
world's  peace.  They  ignore  the  rights  and  wishes  of 
the  people  concerned.  The  wrong  can  be  repaired  in 
only  one  way — by  the  return  of  these  provinces  to 
France,  where  they  belong  and  where  they  desire  to  be." 

1  "Central  Europe." 


THE  LAND  OF  TEARS 

This  is  the  beginning  and  end  of  the  whole  question. 
We  sat  after  dinner  on  a  bench  beneath  a  large  tree  in 
the  hillside  garden  of  the  small  but  well  kept  inn,  where 
we  were  to  spend  our  last  night  in  Alsace-Lorraine. 
Here  we  were  joined  by  our  opposite  neighbor  at  the 
table  d'hote.  "You  permit,  Madame  and  Monsieur*?'* 
He  lighted  his  after  dinner  cigar  and  puffed  away  con- 
tentedly, putting  his  gaitered  feet  up  on  the  low  stone 
wall  which  separated  the  garden  from  the  roadway.  Be- 
fore us  lay  the  vast  golden  and  green  panorama  of  the 
French  valley  under  the  glow  of  a  spectacular  sunset. 
"Yes,  Madame  and  Monsieur,  as  you  say,  you  have  now 
seen  and  known  Alsace-Lorraine,  as  tourists,  of  course,  it 
is  well  understood,  but  nevertheless,  one  can  see  that  you 
have  penetrated  somewhat  beneath  the  surface.  But 
have  you  understood  that  Tame  n'y  est  plus"? — that 
since  the  annexation  of  our  beloved  land,  our  'land  of 
tears'  is  as  the  house  of  the  dead?  We  are  in  mourning, 
Monsieur  and  Madame  I  In  mourning  for  nearly  fifty 
years  I  You  English  and  Americans,  M'sieu',  do  not 
perhaps  appreciate  what  the  word  Tatrie'  means  to  a 
Frenchman,  for  you  do  not  know  what  it  means  to  have 
foreign  soldiers  occupying  and  ruling  irresistibly  your 
land  and  your  home.  You  have  not  seen  your  fields 
trampled  by  the  enemy's  cavalry,  or  your  fruit  trees  cut 
down  and  wantonly  destroyed;  your  homes  defiled  and 
leveled  to  heaps  of  ashes.     Thus  you  cannot  imagine  the 

333 


ALSACE-LORRAINE 

sense  of  cruel  wrong  that  we  Frenchmen  feel  when  our 
sacred  soil  is  violated.  Thus  again  perhaps  you  will  not 
understand  why  our  people  here  in  Alsace-Lorraine  can- 
not utter  the  word  Tatrie'  with  dry  eyes." 

Here  in  the  Vosges  actual  twilight,  with  its  deep  glow, 
has  longer  life,  and  a  more  prolonged  color  than  when 
seen  from  the  valley  level.  Overhead  the  reds  and  saf- 
frons of  the  sunset  were  of  an  astonishing  richness  of 
color,  and  the  whole  countryside  was  bathed  in  crimson 
and  gold  with  deep  violet  shadows.  The  small  town 
awkwardly  climbing  the  hill  at  each  side  of  the  steep 
road,  took  on  new  splendors  of  gilding;  the  tree  tops 
shone  ruddily;  the  old  church  tower  was  set  in  a  pris- 
matic frame  work,  its  cross  all  golden  against  the  green, 
and  in  the  tower  finials  the  rooks  circled  as  the  color 
softened  and  deepened.  Over  the  valley  in  France  the 
shadows  lengthened  in  tones  of  saffron  and  lapis  lazuli. 
Our  loquacious  companion  had  relapsed  into  silence. 
The  great  hills  of  the  Vosges  threw  their  shadows  over 
the  French  valley — ^here  and  there  jagged  rocks,  the  gray 
towers  of  a  distant  cathedral;  long  winding  roadways 
like  violet  ribbons  across  the  dim  landscape ;  a  river  bed 
here  and  there  with  an  embowered  mill,  and  crooked 
lanes  emerging  and  vanishing  into  the  dusk. 

The  next  day  it  rained.  Autumn  drew  aside  her  scar- 
let and  gold  draperies,  and  the  stage  was  set  for  winter. 
Enormous  storms  of  hail  and  sleet  rolled  down  the  moun- 

334 


THE  LAND  OF  TEARS 

tains  and  spread  themselves  over  the  valleys,  while  on 
the  peaks  above  the  black  clouds  split  themselves  in 
fury.  In  the  midst  of  one  of  these  storms  we  left  Alsace- 
Lorraine. 


335 


BiI)Iioj)rtii!lii( 


Ardouin-Dumazet,  Voyage  en  France,  48°  Serie,  Les  Provinces  Per- 
dues,  La  Haute- Alsace,  Paris-Nancy,  Berger-Levrault,  in  8°, 
1907. 

Daniel  Blumenthal,  *'L' Alsace  Lorraine." 

Henri  Welschinger  (Membre  de  I'Institut),  "Moeurs  et  Costumes." 

Ralph  Adams  Cram,  "The  Heart  of  Europe."     Scribner,  1915. 

Emile  Hinzelin,  Director  "La  France  de  Demain." 

Le  Roy  de  Sainte-Croix,  Les  anniversaires  Glorieux  de  I'Alsace, 
Paris-Strasbourg,  1881. 

Histoire  documentaire  de  I'lndustrie  de  Mulhouse  et  de  ses  en- 
virons au  XIX*^  siecle  (Publication  de  la  Societe  Industrielle 
de  Mulhouse),  Mulhouse,  Bader,  2  Vols,  in  folio,  1902. 

L.  M.  Mulhouse;  Revue  de  Paris,  15  Mars  1898. 

Aug.  Lalance,  Mulhouse  Frangais,  Paris,  Chaix,  in  8°,  1912;  Ch. 
Grad,  L' Alsace,  Paris,  Hachette,  in  folio,  1885. 

Charles  Downer  Hazen,  Alsace-Lorraine  Under  German  Rule. 
Henry  Holt  &  Co.,  N.  Y. 

Monstrelet,  Chronicles. 

Maurice  Barres,  Les  Provinces  Captives.     Paris,  Toulouse. 

George  Delahache,  La  Cathedral  de  Strasbourg.  Paris,  Longuet 
Edit. 


336 


Undfx 


About,  Edmond,  30,  41 

"A  bientot,"  40 

Acker,  M.  Paul,  133 

Adalric,  Duke  of  Alsace,  188,   190 

Adelaide  d'Epfig,  Lady,  132 

Agnes  de  Hergenheim,   131,   132 

Agnes  de  Mittelheim,  131 

Alamans,  190 

Albert  of  Brandenburg,  215 

Alsace,  Laws  of  the  Second  Empire, 
326 
"       potash  mines  of,  316 
"       the  "Referendum"  impossible, 

330 
Alsatian  Constitution,  326 

"         death  customs,  168,  169 

**         headdresses,   166 

"         humor,  35 

"         inns,  84,  97,  124,  126 

Landtag,  325 
"         marriage  customs,  172 
"         vehicles,  21,  85,    113,    135 

"         wines,   141,   142,   154,   155, 
157,  219,  222,  259 

Alsatians,  Migration  of,  63,  109 

Alsatians  not  Germans,  48,  324,  332 

Altkirch,  29,  69,  77 

Amerschwirh,  Commune  of,   190 

Anabaptists,  28 

Ancient    Costumes — Sunday    Morn- 
ing, 32 

Andlau,  Chateau,  32 ;  Forest,  33 

Architects : 

Asfeld,  261 ;  Blondel,  256;  de  Ba- 


conval,  264;  de  Landschut,  291; 

de  Steinbach,  126,  290,  295,  298, 

299;   Gerlach,   295;   Hultz,   296; 

Vauban,    261 ;    Vielleville,    261  ; 

Von  Elsingen,  295 
Architecture,  German,  262,  266,  301 
Ardouin-Dumazet    "Provinces    Per- 

dues,"  28 
Ariovistus,  48,  49 
Armagnacs,  77 

Asfeld,  military  architect,  261 
Aspach,  29 

Assemblee,  The,      Annual      peasant 
gathering  at  Bouxwil- 
ler,  172 
**  (fete  of  Touraine),  161 

Barberousse,  Frederich,  Duke  of  Al- 
sace, 59,  305 

Baden,  Dynasty  of,  33 

Bale,  29,  77 

Ballade  (fete  of  Poitue),  161 

Bartholdi,  sculptor,   119,  125 

"Lion    of    Belfort,"    168, 
260 

Bastille,  The,  260 

Beatus  Rhenanus,  60 

Beethoven,  47 

Belfort,  21,  26,  29,  32,  62,  72,  168 

Bibliography,  336 

Bihchwiller,  29 

Birkenfels,  Chateau  of,  32,  34 

Blondel,    architect    of    Metz   Cathe- 
dral, 256 

Blumenthal,    M.    Daniel,    "L'Alsace 
Lorraine,"  34 


337 


INDEX 


Boufflers,  22,  23 
Boulangist  Movement,  the,  25 
Boulay,  (Bolchen),  259 
Bourbon,  Dynasty  of,  33 
Bouxwiller,  "Assemblee,"  172 
Brumath,  forest  of,  26 
Biire,  the,  fete  of  Lorraine,  181 
Burgundy,  House  of,  167 
Burnhaupt,  29 

Caesar,  Julius,  48,  49 
Calverly,  S.  C.  translator,  199 
Canal  of  the  Rhone  and  Rhine,  Mul- 

house,  108 
Cathedral  of  Metz,  257,  260 

"         "     Strassburg,    257,    274, 

288 
Catherine     Guebwiller,    "Flame    of 

Sanctity,"    131 
Champs-des-Boeufs      (Ochsenfeldt), 

29 

"Chansons    Populaire    de    I'Alsace," 

Maisonneuve,  64 
Charlemagne,  26,  28,  33,  187,  215 

Sons  of,  57 
Charles  IV,  187,  214 
V,  260 
"       the  Bold,  57 
Chateau  of  Birkenfels,  32,  34 
"     Gisberg,  92 
"     Hoh-Bar,  34 
"     Hohenburg,    188 
"         "     Ribeaupierre,  92 
"     Saint  Ulrich,  92 
"     Sainte-Odile,   33 
Chateau  Passetemps,  Remains  of,  26ft 
Chateaux,  Spesburg,  Girbaden,  And- 

lau,  Driestein,  Landsberg,  31*  32 
Chauve-Souris  La,  24 
Chenier,  Marie  Joseph,  poet,  286 
Church,  Dominican,  Colmar,  121 
Church  of  St.  fitienne,  Mulhouse, 

105 


Church  of  Martin,  Colmar,  120 
Pierre-le-Jeune, 
Strassburg,   301 
"     "    Pierre-le-Vieux, 

Strassburg,  308 
"     "    Theobald,  Thann, 

241 
"     "    Thomas,    Strassburg, 

302 
"  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  Ros- 
heim,  246 
Clock,  of  Strassburg,  The,  297 
Colmar,  27,  30,  59,  119,  120 

"       Church  of  St.  Martin,  120 

"       Convent  of  Unterlinden,  131 

"       Dominican  Church,  121 

"       Douane,  121 

"       Fifteenth  Century  Well,  208 

"       House  of  Heads,  122 

"       Mayor  of,  34 

"       Maison  des  Tetes,  122 

**       Maison  Pfister  and  other  old 

houses,  122,  130 

"       Statue  of  Bruat,  by  Bar- 

tholdi,  119 

Constitution  of  Alsace,  326 

Conrad  I,  Bishop  of  Strassburg,  289 

Coquelin,    forbidden    to    play    Mo- 

liere's  "Precieuses  Ridicules,"  51 
Corporations,  Society  of,  Colmar,  123 
Cram,  Ralph  Adams,  290,  298,  300 

Dagsbourg,  Ida  of,  33 

Dambach,  Old  Houses  on  the  Square, 
200 

d'Angers,  David,  Statue  of  Guten- 
berg, 303 

Dannemarie,  29 

Daudet,  41,  56 

"Daughter  of  the  Regiment,  The," 
prohibited,  50 

Death  Customs  in  Alsace,  168,  169 

de  Bastard,  Count,  305,  306 


338 


INDEX 


de  Baconval,  Henri,  architect,  264 
Decapole,  The,  of  Alsatia,  27,  59, 

111 
de  Landschut,  Jacques,  architect,  291 
de   ITsle,    Rouget,   author   of   "The 

Marseillaise,"  260,  285 
Delle,  kept  by  France,  62 
De  Maupassant,  56 
de  Rohan,  Cardinal  Armand  Gaston, 

300 
Desaix,  hero  of  Marengo,  312 
de   Saxe,  Marshal,  tomb  at  Strass- 

burg,  302 
de  Steinbach,  Erwin,  Master,  archi- 
tect of  Strassburg,  126,  290,  295, 

298,  299 
"Deutsche  Kaliverke,"  317 
Devant-les-ponts    ( Fanttlespountt) , 

259 
Dietrich,  Mayor  of  Strassburg,  285 
Dolfus,  Jean,  Mayor  of  Mulhouse, 

108 
DoUer,  river,  29,  105 
Dollfus,  Gustav,  316 
Dom  Pitre,  Savant,  131 
Dornach,  29,  316 
Dove,  painter,  30 

Dreien — Eguisheim,  126,  205,  209 
Driestein,  Chateau,  Forest,  32,  34 
Dringenberg,  60 

Druids,  and  their  temples,  26,  56 
Ducasse,  (fete),  161 
Dukes  of  Lorraine,  The,  22,  235 
Diirer,  Alber,  pupil  of  Schongauer, 

134 
Dusenbach,  Chapel  of,  93 

Eggenolf,  Seigneur  of  Ribeaupierre, 

93 

Eguisheim,  Le  Mestig,  126 

"Trois-Chateaux,"  33 
Elbe,  river,  48 
Elizabeth  of  Lennheim,  132 


Engelburg,  castle  of,  32,  233 
Enguerraud  de  Coucy,  77 
Erasmus,  Bishop  of  Limbourg,  305 
Erckmann-Chatrian,  41,  239 
Ethicon,  Duke  of  Alsace,  33,  190 
Eye  of  the  Sorcerer,  The,  32,  236 

"Faust"  performance  prohibited,  50 
Feast  of  the  Pipers,  91,  94 
Fecht,  river,  27 
Fete  Days  and  Customs,  161 

du  Dimanche,  Strassburg,   171 
of  14th  of  July,  130 
of  the  Emperor,  129 
Ferrette,  28,  72 

"        a  Toy  Village  (Pfirt),  69 
"        Castle  of,  70 
Counts  of,  77 
Fiancees,  The,  166 
Foch,  General  Ferdinand,  269 
Fontanalia,  Roman,  240 
Fortifications,     Metz,     Philippeville, 
Saint-Quentin,  Saint  Julian,  Saint 
Privat,  Quelen,  Bellecroix,  261 
Fortune  in  the  Teacup,  The,  Frontis- 
piece 
Foy,  General,  39 
Frairie,  (fete  of  Saintange  and  An- 

goumois),  161 
Frankfort,  Treaty  of,  62,  328 
Franks,  190 

Frederick  Barberousse,  59,  305 
French   Revolution,    120,    197,   216, 
220,  260 

Gerlach,  Master,  architect,  295 
German  oppression,  34,  35,  42,  63, 

324 
German  Yoke,  The,  39 
Gertrude  de  Reinfelden,  132 
Geyler,  preacher  of  Strassburg,  60 
Giersberg,  castle  of,  95 
Giessen,  river,  28 


339 


INDEX 


Girbaden,  Chateau  of,  32 
Gisberg,  Chateau  of,  92 
Goethe's  description  of  Alsace,  293 
Goetz,  Jean-Laurent,  architect,  291 
Grad,  M.  Charles,  "Alsace,"  311 
Grand-Ballon,  river,  26 
Grunewald,    Mathias,    painter,    125, 

133 

Guebwiller,  26,  32 

Guild  Corporations,  The,  91 

"      of  the  Pfeiffers,  92 
Guliertanz  (Rooster  Dance)  of  Ing- 

willer,  180 
Gutenberg  ( Johann  Gensfleisch),  304 

Hagelschloss,  forest  of,  33 

Hagenfels,  forest  of,  33 

Haguenau  and  The  Decapole,  59 

Hapsburg,  house  of,  33,  77 

"  origin  of  the  name,  58 

Harndes,  48 

Haute-Alsace,  28 

Hazen,     Charles     Downer,    "Alsace 
under  German  Rule,"  329 

"Heart    of    Europe,    The,"    Ralph 
Adams  Cram,  290,  298,  300 

Henner,  Jean  Jacques,  painter,  78 

Herrade  de  Landsberg,  304,  306,  307 

Hinzelin,  M.  Emile,  "La  France  de 
Demain,"  255,  268 

Hochfelden,  30 

Hoh-Bar,  Chateau,  34 

Hohenburg,  Chateau  of,  188 
"  Monastery  of,  305 

Hohen-Eguisheim,  castle  of,  205 

Hohlandsburg,  27,  221,  222 

Hoh-Rappoltstein,  castle  of,  96 

Holy  Roman  Empire,  49 

"Hortus  Deliciarum,"  the,  304,  306 

Hugiies,  Abbe  of  Cluny,  72 

"         IV,  Count  of  Eguisheim,  33 

Hultz,   Johann,   of   Cologne,   archi- 
tect, 296 


Humor  of  the  Alsatians,  35 
Hunawihr,  31,  32 
Huningue,  26 

III  river,  26,  27,  28,  30 
Inns,  Alsatian,  84,  97,  124,  126,  221, 
239.  245 

Jagow,  Dr.,  Police  President,  46 

"Jean  Paul"  (Richter),  47 

Jouy-aux- Arches,  259 

Jundt,  painter,  187 

Jura  Mountains,  26,  29,  72 

Kaiser  Wilhelm  II,  effigy  at  Metz, 
256,  257 
"     never    at    Mul- 
house,    1 10 

Kammerzall,  The,  Strassburg,  300 

Kapfel,  forest  of,  34 

Kauffmann,  painter,  30 

Kaysersburg,  26,  27,  59 

Kehl,  312 

Kllbe  (fete,  Alsace),  92,  161 

Klingenthal,  forest  of,  34 

Kocherburg,  30 

Koechlin,    Nicholas,    of    Mulhouse, 
107 

Lacordaire,  Pere,  131,  132 

"La  France  de  Demain,"   Hinzelin, 
255,  268 

Laich,  river,  26,  27,  207 

Landau,  and  the  Decapole,  ^g 

Land  of  Tears,  The,  323 

Landgraben,  The,  28 

Landsberg,  Chateau  of,  32 
"  forest  of,  34 

Langel,  M.  Anselme,  on  Alsatian  in- 
teriors, 195 

Landtag  of  Alsace,  the,  325 

Largue,  29 

Laun,  29 


340 


INDEX 


Leon  IX,  of  Eguisheim,  33 

Liebig,  on  Alsatian  wines,  142 

Liepvrette,  28 

Ligsdorf,  29 

"Ligue    des    Patriotes,"    Strassburg, 

Lion  of  Belfort,  The,  by  Bartholdi, 

168 
Lippman,  Jonas,  50,  51 
Lix,  painter,  187 
Longpierre,  translator,  199 
Lorraine,  Dynasty  of,  33 
Lorry,  259 

Lost  Provinces,  The,  21 
Lothaire,  57 
Louis  XIII,  293 

"      XIV,  22,  34,  58,  71,  216 

"      XV,  257 

"      XVI  on  Theocritus,  199 
Louis  le  Debonnaire,  187,  266,  293 

"      Philippe,  305 

"      the  German,  57 
Loux,  Henry,  painter,  30 
Lucian,  reference  to  the  Mur  Paicn, 

189 
Lutzelbourg,  forest  of,  34 

Maison  Pfister,  Colmar,  130 
Maisonneuve,  Jean,  Chansons  Pop- 

ulaire  de  I'Alsace,  64 
Malmerspach,  29 
Manners,  German,  267 
Marechal,  painter,  172 
Marechausee  (Marshals  of  France), 

92 
Margaret  of  Colmar,  132 
Marriage  customs  in  Alsace,  172 
Marseillaise,  The,  34,  260,  285 
Mary  Stuart,  English  Queen,  157 
Mase-vaux,  29 

Mazarin,  Cardinal,  71,  77,  239 
Menetriers,  Les  (Pipers),  91 
Mestig,  Le,  92,  126,  161 

34 


Metz,  255 

"Camoufle  Tower,"  263 

Cathedral  of,  257,  260 

effigy  of  William  II,  256,  257 

Old  Bridge,  The,  268 

Old   Houses  on  the   Moselle, 

316 
"Pont-des-Morts,"  265 
Porte  des  AUemands,  264 
"      Sainte  Barbe,  264 
"      Serpenoise,  263 
Metzgerthurm  tower,  Ribeauville,  95 
Migration  of  Alsatians,  63,  109 
Mines,  potash,  316 
Minnelstein,  The,  189 
Moder,  river  and  valley,  26,  59 
Moos,  29 
Moselle  river,  265 
Mulhouse,  21,  26,  28,  29,  30,  105 
"  bleacheries  and  dye  houses, 

105 
Bollwerk  105,  1 10,  112 
Church     of     St.     fitienne, 

105 
Hotel   de   Ville,    105,    106, 

108 
joined  with  France,  1798, 

111 
Societe  Industrielle,  108 
"The  Klapperstein,"   106 
Munster,  and  the  Decapole,  59 
Murbach,  Abbey  of,  32 
Mur  Paien,  The,  188 

Napoleon  I,  39,  312 
111,51,62 

Niederhoslach,  Saint-Florent,  212 
Niedermunster,  191 
Nivelle,  General,  270 
"Noeud  Alsatian,"    (black  hair  rib- 
bon), 166 
Nonnenbrusch,  forest  of,  315 
Nordgau,  The,  28 


INDEX 


Obcrnai,  and  the  Decapole,  59 
Old  Wine  Press,  148 
Ortenberg,  valley  of,  33 

Painters : 

Dove,    30;    Durer,    134;    Grune- 
wald,    125,    133;    Henner,    78; 
Jundt,  187;  Kauffman,  30;  Lix, 
187;  Loux,  30;  Marcchal,  172; 
Schongauer,  123,  134,  242,  308; 
Schuler,  30 
Pardon,  fete  of  Brittany,  161 
Petain,  General,  270 
Peter  and  Paul,  SS.,   Church,  Ros- 

heim,  246 
Pfeiffer  Konig  (King  of  Pipers),  92 
Pfeiffertag  (Piper's  Day),  91 
Pfirt  (Ferrette),  69 
Pilgrimage  of  Notre  Dame  des  Trois 

fipis,  189 
Pillar  of  the  Angels,  Strassburg,  289 
Pipers,  Feast  of  the,  91 
Prince  of  Monaco,  The,  71 
Protestants,  German,  82 
Protestantism,  61,  ill,  291 
Protestation  of  1874,  ^5*  ^2 
"Provinces     Perdues,"    Ardouin-Du- 

mazet,  28 
Prussia,  49 
Prussian  Cabinet  Order,  1820,  45 

Quaint  Houses,  The,  195 

Rauestein,  valley  of,  33 
Rapperschwier,  (Ribeauville),  91 
Rappoltstein,  Count  of,  93 
Rappoltsweiler  (Ribeauville),  96 
Ratsamhausen,  forest  of,  34 
Real  Reason,  The,  315 
Referendum,  an  impossible  solution, 

330 
Reichstag,  46 


Revolution,  French,    120,    197,  216, 

220,  260 
Rhine,  river,  28,  30,  48,  49,  50 
Rheingau,  The,  wine  of,  141 
Richard  Coeur  de  Lion,  187 
Richter,  Jean  Paul,  47 
Ribeaupierre,  Chateau  of,  92 
Seigneur  of,  92 
Ribeauville,  28 

Feast  of  Pipers,  91 
"  Metzgerthurm,  95 

Rodolph  of  Hapsbourg,  289 
Roman  aqueduct,  324 
Romans,    builders    in    Alsace,    206, 

233,  259,  266,  289 
Ronsard,  poet.  Lines  to  Mary  Stuart, 

157 
Rosheim,  59,  245 

Rosheim,  Church  of  SS.  Peter  and 
Paul,  246 
Hotel  de  Mile,  246 
Rousseau,  statue  in  Colmar,  120 

Saint-Amarine,  29 
"      Christopher,  73 
"      Huna,  31 
"      Moraud,  patron  saint  of  the 

Sundgau,  73 
"  Pirminius,  240 
**      Theobald,     Churc  i,     Thann, 

241 
"      Ulrich,  Chateau  of,  92 
"      Ulrichsburg,  Castle  of,  95 
Saintange,  fete  of,  161 
Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines,  28,  316 
"      Marie,  Valley  of,  33 
"      Odile,  33 

"      Chateau  of,  33 

"  "      Convent    of,    32,     187, 

188,    190 

"      Mount,  56 

"  "      patron  saint  of  Alsace, 

187,   188 


342 


INDEX 


Sarreguemines  (Saargmund),  259 
Saulny,  259 
Savern,  Mount  of,  34 
Schlestadt-Ribeauville,  26,  30 
Schlestadt  and  the  Decapole,  59 

Feast  of  Pipers,  91 
Schnaebele  Incident,  25 
Schongauer,    Martin,    painter,    123, 

134,  242 
school  of,  308 
Schuler,  Theophile,  painter,  30 
Seppois-le-Bas,  29 
Sequanians,  48 

Sforza,  Duke  Jean  Galeas,  290 
Siegfried,    Count    of    Luxembourg, 

215 
Smitz,  Fr.  architect,  296 
Smollett,  on  French  inns,  83 
Societe  Anceli,  317 
Sophie  de  Bar,  Lady,  73 
Sorcerer's  Eye,  The,  32,  236,  238 
Soultz,  27 
Spesburg,  Chateau  of,  32 

"         forest  of,  34 
Spiess,  Henriette,  132 
Sterne,  "Sentimental  Journey,"  85 
Storks  of  Strassburg,  the,  309 
Strengbach,  river,  28 
Stube  (Clans),  60 

Strassbourgeoise,     The      ("Marseil- 
laise"), 285 
Strassburg,  26,  30,  40,  51,  273 
"  Bishops  of,  34 

"  bombardment  of,  62 

"  Cathedral    of,    54,    257, 

274,  276,  288 
"  Church   of    Saint-Pierre- 

le-Jeune,  301 
"  Church  of  Saint  Pierre- 

le-Vieux,  308 
"  Church   of   St.   Thomas, 

302 
"  Fete  du  Dimanche,  171 


((  «i 


Strassburg,  great  clock,  the,  297 
"  Kammerzall,  The,  300 

"  "La  Petite  France,"  302, 

310 
"  Library,  burned  by  Ger- 

mans, 308 
'Ligue  des  Patriotes,"  41 
"  Pillar     of     the     Angels, 

289,  298 
"  Portal    of    St.    Laurent, 

290 
"  The  storks  of,  309 

Suabia,  Dynasty  of,  33 
Sundgau,  The,  28,  69 

"         The  wine  of,  141 
Swedish  Invasion,  61,  77,  167 

Thann,  29,  233 

"       Church  of  St.  Theobald,  241 
Theocritus,  Idyll  XXVII,  199 
Theodoric,  King,  259 
Theofrid  of  Hohlandsburg,  225 
Theuriet,  Andre,  143,  199 
Thionville  (Diedenhoffen),  259 
Thirty  Years'  War,  61,  95 
Thur,  River  and  valley,  29,  233 
Treaty  of  Frankfort,  62,  328 
"       Verdun,  a.  d.  843,  57 
"       Westphalia,  239 
Trinkel,  28 
Tiirckheim,  219 

"  and  the  Decapole,  59 

Inn      of      "The      Two 
Keys,"  27 
"  Porte  Basse,  219,  220 

"  sunset,  226 

"  wine  of,  219 

Turenne,  219,  233,  239 

Unterlinden,   Convent    of,    Colmar, 
131 


Vachon,  Marius,  304 


343 


INDEX 


Vauban,  military  architect  of  Metz,      Welschinger,  M.  Henri,  304 


261 
Vehicles,  Alsatian,  21,  85,  113,  135, 

151,  240,  246 
Verdun,  Treaty  of,  a.  d.  843,  57 
Vielleville,  Marshal,  military  archi- 
tect, 261 
A'ieux-Thann,  29 
Ville,  29,  91 

"      Valley  of,  33 
Vineyards,  The,  141 

"  Laborers  in,  144 

Vogt,  M.  Joseph,  317 
Vogue,  (fete  of  Dauphiny),  161 
Voltaire,  in  Colmar,   120,  123 
Von  Elsingen,  Ulrich,  295 
V^on  Falkenhayn,  General,  46 
Von  Forstner,  Lieutenant,  44,  47 
Von  Reuter,  Colonel,  45,  46,  47 
Von  Werder,  General,  54 
Vosges   Mountains,  25,  26,  29,  32^ 
39.  57.  69 

Wachtstein,  The,  189 
Wagner,  sculptor,  308 
Walch,  Melster  Remigius,  241 
Wantzenau,  30 
Weiss,  river,  27 


"      "Mocurs     et 
Coutumes,** 
176 
Wernher,  Bishop  of  Strassburg,  288 
Werther,  47 
Wesserling,  29 
Wharton,  Miss,  78,  135 
William  II,  Kaiser,  effigy  at  Metz, 
256,  257 
never  at   Mul- 
house,   1 10 
Wimpferling,  Jacob,  60 
Wines  of  Alsace,  141,  142,  154,  155, 

157,  219,  222,  259 
Winzenheim,  221 
Wissembourg-Hagenau,  26 

"  and  the  Decapole,  |9 

"  defeat  of,  62 

Weippy,  259 

Young     Alsatian     Girl     in     Native 
Headdress,  82 

Zabern  Incident,  The,  25,  43,  44 
Zola,  56 

Zorn,  plains  and  valley,  26,  34 
Ziinfte,  (tribes),  60 


344 


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